Laser Z Hydro problem

[bushtrimmer]

I was out of town last year when a crew had a problem with a z. Had guys take it to the dealer to get fixed.
They said drive axle broke and messed up the hydro on that side. They replaced both.
It was toward the end of last year when we got it back and didn't use it for more than a couple days. Now, as was the case last year, that hydro takes several minutes to warm up and operate properly.
I have never had problems when installing new hydro or changing fluids, I refill and run the hydros with no stress, machine jacked up off ground, and that works out air in system.
The dealer is telling me it just needs to be run more to get the air out of the system. Could this be true, it's probably been run for 10 hours since the repair.

[Mower Man]

Reads like both the wheel motor , and the pump were replaced.

Is good to warm up hydraulics in cold weather, but dealer isn't 100% right about that.

Pump is usually what goes bad first because it's located higher getting air easier, has more ports (fittings/hoses), and it's harder to bleed.
Pump is aluminum body, can score sending metal parts thru the system.
If one goes that ENTIRE side must be taken apart, cleaned, filter replaced, and tank flushed. Other isde componets areok as it's s split-closed circuit.

Look at ALL carefully for wetness--dampness & acumulation of dirt. If any wetness-dampness is evident....it's a leak path.
1. Fittings that are screwed into pump, wheel motors, filter assy., and tank.
2. Pre made (swaged) hose & fitting where the rubber hose GOES INTO the
fitting.
3. Check pump bolts for tightness.
4. Check hydraulic filter for tightness. They can vibrate/flex loose.
5. Check hoses....if wet follow trail. DO NOT run and use a hand!!!!
Cardboard is best.
6. Hydraulic filter changed???
7. Proper hydraulic filter!!!
8. Hydraulic tank & dameged side properly cleaned?

In my travels I see to many short cuts, improper repair techniques, wrong tools, wrong parts, and misdiagnose.

Damaged wheel motors usually are the result of improper lug nut torque, wobbly wheel, loose axle hub nut, missing cotter pin, bad-poor hydraulic maintenance, and wrong fluid.
Hardly ever go bad by themselves.

If a sytem is tight, and initally run like you wrote...air will bleed out, and stay out.

If your having a squeal, especially when the Park Brake is 'On' that's caused by misadjusted 'Neutral' in the pump which can make it 'track off'.

There's more but the cause-solution should be in the above.