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View Full Version : What is the proper way to remove the blades of walk-behind mower


lenster
04-12-2005, 09:09 AM
Hello All

I purchased an Exmark metro 48 recently which came with replacement blades. I was cleaning under the deck after my first cut and realized the blades have quite a few chips in them and are very dull. I decided to see if I can change them. I tried to turn the bolts loose but am having problems. Is there a trick to this like using a block of wood to hold the blade while you turn the the bolt on top of the spindle? Extra large rachet maybe? In what direction do you turn clock-wise etc. Do the bolts really need to be torqued down during re-installation.
I have changes blades on the 21" decks without a problem.
I could not find any other info on this site.

Thanks
Lenster

KathysLGC
04-12-2005, 09:46 AM
Right above the blade (not the spindle) you'll see you can put an adjustable wrench to it. Now take your ratchet with i think a 15/16 socket and loosen the bolt. Do not hole the bolt on top of the spindle. The bolt will be tighter then one from a 21" mower so you might need to use a pipe for leverage.

lenster
04-12-2005, 10:10 AM
Right above the blade (not the spindle) you'll see you can put an adjustable wrench to it. Now take your ratchet with i think a 15/16 socket and loosen the bolt. Do not hole the bolt on top of the spindle. The bolt will be tighter then one from a 21" mower so you might need to use a pipe for leverage.


Playboy

When I look at the parts manual the bolt that hold the blade appears to be held in place from the top with the nut above the spindle?
The bolt is very long?
Am I missing something?

Lenster

pwarren4
04-12-2005, 11:03 AM
Yes, the bolt is very long, 10 in. or so. The bolt goes all the way thru the spindle and is held with the nut on top. Standard direction thread (right hand), 15/16 wrench needed top and bottom. I always re-torque these to 85 ft lbs when replacing, and I make sure the mating surfaces are clean. This should help keep the blades from slipping and over tightening the center bolt, making it near impossible to get off later.

Good Luck!

Mower For Less
04-12-2005, 11:06 AM
The bolt comes in from the bottom, it is a 15/16 hex. Immediately on the other side (top side) of the blade are two flats (I believe 1" wrench?) that you put a second wrench on to keep the spindle from turning while you loosen the 15/16 hex. It is a normal RH thread (lefty loosy).

I am in the habit of using an Impact Wrench to loosen mine, so I dont use the 1" wrench to hold the spindle.

Kevin

pwarren4
04-12-2005, 11:58 AM
The bolt comes in from the bottom, it is a 15/16 hex. Immediately on the other side (top side) of the blade are two flats (I believe 1" wrench?) that you put a second wrench on to keep the spindle from turning while you loosen the 15/16 hex. It is a normal RH thread (lefty loosy).

I am in the habit of using an Impact Wrench to loosen mine, so I dont use the 1" wrench to hold the spindle.

Kevin

This is not how my Metro 48" fixed deck is made - Mine has the bolts going all the way thru the spindle. This allows for spacers to be put in and adjusted at the blades as well as the wheels for added cut height adjustability.

marko
04-12-2005, 12:27 PM
From the picture, it looks like my Toro. Put a 15/16" (or appropriate size) on the bolt holding the blades (underneath the mower), remove the belt cover and put another wrench over the nut above the spindle. Lock mower under the edge of a trailer (so it is leaned back w/ front wheels as high off the ground as possible) and take the bolt off. Be careful because there should be spacers above and below the spindle to make fine adjustments to blade height!

Tharrell
04-12-2005, 12:38 PM
Check this tool I made. Or, you can buy one from Lesco.

Tvov
04-12-2005, 12:41 PM
As marko said. We used 15/16 socket wrenches, usually we use air wrench now. Make sure bolts are clean, and sockets have a good hold, so they don't slip off. You end up exerting a lot of pressure while changing blades, so be careful.

We DO NOT use adjustable wrenches. Years ago, when we still used adjustable wrenches, one of my guys was putting freshly sharpened blades on one of the mowers, when the adjustable wrench slipped. The blade swung around and sliced his hand open. Almost 6", down to the bone. It was very impressive looking. Amazingly the blade missed critical parts of the inside of his hand, so six weeks later he was back at work.

So, be careful.

As mentioned, keep track of any washers/spacers, so you can put them back on in the correct order.

pcnservices
04-12-2005, 12:52 PM
Lenster,
Get yourself one of these Blade Busters. Very inexpensive piece of equipment and it works very good.
If you get really lazy like me and you hate crawling under the dirty deck after a hard days work then get yourself an impact wrench. May guys here recommend the cordless ones. They are pretty expensive but they work good. I have a pneumatic impact wrench. With an impact you dont even have to hold the blade down.
Good luck
PC

MJLsLawnCareNmoreLLC
04-12-2005, 01:41 PM
Is the mower brand new?

KathysLGC
04-12-2005, 01:46 PM
I've been thinking about one of those blade busters. I have an air powered impact wrench but I hate filling the compersor just for one thing then draining it afterwards. The Battery powered units go for $250-$400! That blade buster looks like it would be a big help out on the field if you bend a blade while mowing...

lenster
04-12-2005, 02:40 PM
Is the mower brand new?


No, It is used.

Lenster

zgman
04-12-2005, 04:48 PM
I had tried the blade buster last year, I had to twist it so tight for it to hold that the rubber piece on the end of the vice ripped off. My blades were torqued too high for it. I got the hustler blade locking tool and it works great. I use it on all my mowers. I saw a similar one on Scag's website a while back depending on which dealer is closest to you. Here's a pic of the hustler blade lock:

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=75023&highlight=blade+lock

KathysLGC
04-12-2005, 04:51 PM
Hmmm.... What does that do to the new edge you just put on the blade when you go to reinstall the blades?...

TURF DOCTOR
04-12-2005, 06:03 PM
Snap on impact here the best money i have ever spent besides a blade blocker we got today man i love this thing.

MJLsLawnCareNmoreLLC
04-12-2005, 07:56 PM
No, It is used.

Lenster

I know the new mowers really have the bolts torqued down. Even so you might want to try a small torch on the nut to try and loosen it.

kwelch
04-14-2005, 01:04 PM
Never seen that before. Thats pretty slick.

KathysLGC
04-14-2005, 01:16 PM
I know the new mowers really have the bolts torqued down. Even so you might want to try a small torch on the nut to try and loosen it.

Unless your real careful I would advise against heat unless it is really necessary. To close to the spindle bearing seal.

lawnranger44
04-14-2005, 04:13 PM
You can get an air compresser used for like $100 tops. Then use an impact wrench :cool:

ChadA
04-14-2005, 06:08 PM
Get a 15/16 wrench for the top and one for the botton. Get you two 3' pipes from the hardware store. I got the pipes I used from home depot for like $6 for both. Make sure there thick enough so they don't bend. Wedge something under the deck so the blades don't move. Slide the pipes over the wrenchs, have one person hold the bottom and you get on the top one and bust that sucker loose. I have the exact mower you have and this is what i had to go through the first time I took mine off. After that you can do it yourself. For the future I would suggest an impact wrench. Much easier. Hope this helps.

lenster
04-15-2005, 09:50 AM
Hello All
I want to thank every one for their responses
I finally was able to remove the blades. I had to use two long breaker bars with 15/16 sockets on each. I was by myself and it took quite a bit of effort.
This had to be their first removal!
I put the new blades on, replaced spacers and re-tightened.
I put one of the new blades which came with the mower along side one of one of my old blades. The new blades are around .25 inches shorter than the original ones. Is this a normal for some blades? Will it change the cut?
I put the new blades on, replaced spacers and re-tightened anyway.

Thanks for all the help.
Lenster

Tvov
04-15-2005, 12:19 PM
1/4" shorter? You bet that is going to make a difference. Are these factory replacement blades? In the past when I have mail ordered blades from discount suppliers I have gotten the wrong, usually shorter, blades. You are probably going to be leaving strips of uncut grass, because the blades probably won't be overlapping enough. Give it a try, but you may not be happy with the results.

And then you will have to go through this whole blade changing ordeal again! ;) :D

lenster
04-15-2005, 12:26 PM
1/4" shorter? You bet that is going to make a difference. Are these factory replacement blades? In the past when I have mail ordered blades from discount suppliers I have gotten the wrong, usually shorter, blades. You are probably going to be leaving strips of uncut grass, because the blades probably won't be overlapping enough. Give it a try, but you may not be happy with the results.

And then you will have to go through this whole blade changing ordeal again! ;) :D

You may be right. They were free (came with the mower when I purchased my used mower) so I will try them. I will also get the original blades sharpened and ready to put back on. If I do not like the cut!
As for the blade changing ordeal, should not be a problem the second time around. It should be easy!

Thanks
Lenster