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View Full Version : Echo 403T backpack blower acting up???


lpandroc
05-15-2005, 09:05 PM
Hi all..I have a relatively new Echo Backpack 403T blower..Its been acting weird as I was using it yeaterday and all of a sudden...dead...It will idle for 30 seconds then putter out..wont even idel for longer???...Emptied fuel, put new in....checked air and fuel filter?...All fine!!!...The things barely been used?...any thoughts?..my arms are ready to fall off as I cant get this guy going..Please help if you can..Thanks , Lance

Restrorob
05-15-2005, 09:30 PM
Sorry I can't help Ya but 2 cycles aren't my bag,But I can remind you if a unit doesn't pop spit or sputter in 4 or 5 pulls all your doing is wearing out the recoil assembly and your arm.
I'm sure somebody will be along shortly to give a hand !
Good luck

martinw
05-15-2005, 09:57 PM
Only thing I can think of off the bat. Does it speed up before it dies? if so it could be starving for fuel (maybe a hole in the line) Or ther is a screen in the carb that could be cloged.

lpandroc
05-15-2005, 10:16 PM
no increase in speed...idles the dies in 20 sec.

ed2hess
05-15-2005, 10:16 PM
If you can keep it running with quick start being sprayed into carb, then I would agree that the screen in carb could be the problem. Take carb apart and clean it. YOU are sure spark plug is okay and tight? And the spark arrestor has been taken out of muffler?

lpandroc
05-16-2005, 06:59 AM
Ed Thx for the helo...the plug is new and the tblower is 6 months old..I have not taken the spark arrestor off?...would you recommend it off and keep it off???..I live near woods?..How could that be it after only months of use?...again thoughts?

Restrorob
05-16-2005, 11:41 AM
Ed Thx for the helo...the plug is new and the tblower is 6 months old..I have not taken the spark arrestor off?...would you recommend it off and keep it off???..I live near woods?..How could that be it after only months of use?...again thoughts?


This is only one thing that could cause this problem,The screen clogs up rather quickly because of the oil in the fuel,Take it off and see if it will run.
If it does clean the screen and reinstall,Most people leave them off to avoid cleaning besides you can see if a fire breaks out,But I've never heard of it happening. If this isn't the fix have you checked the fuel filter in the tank ?
If yes you need to go inside the carb. and clean it.

Tider6972
05-16-2005, 02:51 PM
6 months old? Then it's still under warranty! Take it to your dealer and let them handle it.

Not likely the spark arrestor, it's too new, unless your been running a very oil rich mixture.

Does it start and idle again after a cooling period? My guess is it does, and you've got a coil problem, which is covered under a lifetime warranty.

Restrorob
05-16-2005, 03:47 PM
6 months old? Then it's still under warranty! Take it to your dealer and let them handle it.

Not likely the spark arrestor, it's too new, unless your been running a very oil rich mixture.

Does it start and idle again after a cooling period? My guess is it does, and you've got a coil problem, which is covered under a lifetime warranty.

I thought of warranty also,But if they find trash or something in the carb. causing the problem it will not be covered.

lpandroc
05-16-2005, 05:35 PM
well removed the screen and the surrounding gasket that holds it in place...nothing???.....Well I think its in the carb and not under warranty, but who knows??...they want $55 plus parts to open the carb and fix. Is that reasonable?..or is it something I can do (Yikes!!!)..Thanks all

Tider6972
05-16-2005, 05:52 PM
I'm betting you'll find that it is not a fuel issue.

Take it to the dealer and tell them what the *symptoms* are, not how to fix it. Also, tell them, if you choose, that if it isn't a warranty issue to notify you *before* doing anything to it which will cost you money. If it's 6 months old they are obligated to check it for manufacturer's / warranty problems. JMO

ed2hess
05-16-2005, 07:27 PM
Before you take it in do all the obvious things like be sure the air filter is clean, a new plug is put in, and maybe a new fuel filter, etc. Even the best of shop will hit you up for all that stuff. I usually sent a list of all the things I have done.

martinw
05-18-2005, 09:33 PM
Definatally put in a new plug. Normally if it is the carb screen it will incress in rpm a little before it dies (as it starves for fuel and runs lean). There is alot you could do to try to fix it but I would check with a shop first.

soilman
09-11-2005, 05:46 PM
It is something you can do yourself, probably. Does the carb have a needle valve that shuts off the fuel supply when the float rises and the bowl fills up? If so, check it isn't stuck.

Lawn Masters
09-11-2005, 07:50 PM
It is something you can do yourself, probably. Does the carb have a needle valve that shuts off the fuel supply when the float rises and the bowl fills up? If so, check it isn't stuck.
Sorry, but you're thinking float carb, not diaphragm which is what these have on them. a float carb wont run in all positions like diaphragm carbs will.

soilman
09-11-2005, 10:49 PM
Ah.. OK Lawn Masters.

soilman
09-11-2005, 11:05 PM
It still has a needle valve. I looked at the parts diagram from Echo's web site. The "valve inlet, needle" is right near the "metering diaphraghm" If is is stuck closed, the engine will run until it runs out of the fuel that you pumped in by hand with the "purge pump" before starting -- it looks like that's what it has -- a purge pump to start the fuel flowing until the fuel pump takes over.

There is also a fuel pump (consisting of another diaphraghm) which is integral with the carburetor. I'd check that, and its gasket or gaskets to make sure the gaskets don't have any holes in them that are blocked. And look thru the whole carb for blocked passages. But I'm betting on needle valve on this one.

QualityLawnCare4u
09-11-2005, 11:08 PM
My 403 did the same thing, new carb solved the problem. Are you sure its not under warrant? I was thinking they had a 2 year warranty. Mine was 5 months old and they replaced it free of charge. My 650 carb lasted only 2 months before it was replaced, does not give me a good feeling about anymore echo products.

soilman
09-12-2005, 07:32 AM
Almost always, in a newish engine, it is just some dirt in the carburetor either clogging something up or causing something to stick, and you only need to clear out the blocked port or jet, and unstick the stuck thing. You rarely need a new carb, or even a rebuild kit. Check the diaphraghm and the fuel pump diagphragm to make sure they aren't torn, and are still reasonably flexible. Check all the passages (there may be some that are hard to find) and blow them out with compressed air -- do not use a metal pin of any sort, but you could use a broom straw if you can get it thru without forcing it. make sure the needle valve is not stuck (it would be stuck closed in this case). That is almost all you have to do, 9 or more times out of 10. Newish engines don't need spark plugs for several years -- electronic ignitions have reduced spark plug wear many times. If it runs and then stops, it is not likely to be the spark plug -- unless it is a conduction problem where the internal conductor of the spark plug wire or spark plug opens up with an increase in temperature. But look at it anyway. Make sure the gap is approximately correct, and that the center electrode is neither eroded, rounded, and make sure it is not fouled with carbon deposits.

Of course, make sure the throttle cable is adjusted correctly. Yea, it could be the spark plug wire, or even part of the electronic ignition system opens up and stops conducting, with an increase in temp. After it stops, before it has a chance to cool off -- remove the spark plug wire, pull the starter cord, and make sure the spark looks good as it jumps from wire to plug (insulate yourself to protect yourself against shocks). Or use a little spark tester at the end of the spark plug wire, or of course you can use a spark-testing lamp on a professional tachometer-engine analyser meter. Just do it before the engine cools off. The whole ignition device plus a new plug is probably not expensive if you want to buy a new one. usually the timing is "fixed" on newer engines -- so you just install correctly -- you don't have to adjust the timing.

soilman
09-12-2005, 07:37 AM
The fact that it only idles for 30 seconds before it stops argues against an ignition problem and for a fuel starvation problem, tho there is a small possibility that something vibrates loose in the ignition after a short time. But if this were the case, usually it isn't uniformly after 30 seconds.

OldTermite
12-19-2008, 10:25 PM
:dizzy::dizzy::dizzy:Add me to the list of 403t "haters". Man, mine has been little more than an aggravation since I got it. Used it two or three times just after I bought it and thought it did OK for a homeowner unit. It sat for about two months in the garage, then when I tried to go again it wouldn't crank, for love nor money!!! OK, I'll accept the blame for not "running it dry" before putting it up, but this wasn't for that long . . . anyway, authorized service center put on new carb (billed me for labor, Echo for parts), and I brought it back home and used it ONCE. Parked it for a couple of weeks, BAM, same thing, won't fire no matter what.

Changed out the mix, changed the plug, pulled until I couldn't anymore . . . this one's for sale cheap, I'm breaking in the piggy bank and buying either a Stihl BR600 or the RedMax 8000 . . . or does someone have a better idea?

Echo 403t, CHEEEP!!! :dizzy:

supercoup
04-12-2009, 12:55 AM
Your problem is in the ignition module. If it runs for 20 seconds and then quits it will turn out to be just that. You will have spark when you check it but as the module gets hot, the spark cuts out. trust me, i went through the whole machine and thats what it turned out to be. the module costs $80 and is located on the back of the unit below the cylinder head. Just follow the spark plug wire to the area and remove one screw and the plate will come off exposing the pickup. Whe you install the new one you have to remember to leave a gap of about 6 thousants between the pickup and the flywheel which carries the magnets. Hope this helps.

betmr
04-12-2009, 10:30 AM
No one asked you the most obvious question. Did you leave fuel in it for these 6 months ? If so your Carburetor needs to be taken off, taken apart, & cleaned. The gas has turned to varnish, and is probably causing the diaphrams inside the carb. to stick, thereby minimizing the fuel flow. You need to clean this with Carburetor, Choke, & Throttle Body cleaner. And I believe there is an Idle speed flow needle on there. If so, screw it IN gently, counting the turns, till it just bottoms out. Then take it out, take carb. apart, clean all the little holes, and everything else. put it back together, bottom out that needle and back off the number of turns from before, and start 'er up.

In the future, don't leave the gas in it for long term storage.