newbie at landscaping with landscape issues at home w/pics

[rokinrandy]

hi,i am new here and i have really enjoyed this forum the past couple of days i hope it is ok for a plumber that appreciates your trade and wants to learn to post here..and i hope maybe i can contribute one day..anyways i am no expert so go easy on me..i just bought a home last year and the yard is really ghetto :cool2: ..if you read the free chem lawn post you will see a part of my problem..anyways any book suggestions or pro advice will be awesome..apart from the lawn and all the other work i have i will just post a small project of mine w/pics..money is an issue for me right now so ,every thing i have i find growing wild and i collect stuff off of all these commercial projects i work on(but nothing stolen :blush: ) i have spotted some huge ferns where my buddy hunts..anyways look at the crazy pics i have for this project and let me have it ..thanks ..randy oh here is the link w/pics http://groups.msn.com/randyraudenbushandfamily/yardwork.msnw

[topsites]

oh here is the link w/pics http://groups.msn.com/randyraudenbushandfamily/yardwork.msnw

Ok there are only a few things I can cover because my specialty is lawncare and mulch, and what follows is based on your pictures so here goes:

You need a broad-cast spreader! If you do not have one, you will need to buy one or maybe you can borrow one from a neighbor.

- To make the grass look good, run to Home Depot and buy:
4 to 6 bags of pelletized Lime (they're about 3 bucks each, 40lb. bags).
- The lime is in white-green bags and make sure you don't get the powdered cheap stuff because the powder SUX with the spreader.
2 bags of Super 16-4-8 Fertilizer (33 lb. bags, about $5.49 each)
- This comes in red + white bags, and is usually around the 10-10-10.
One bottle of Ortho 'Lawn Weed Killer' with the garden-hose applicator.
- Make SURE you do NOT get the 'Grass & Weed Killer' or you will kill your lawn! Read the fine print and make sure it says 'Kills the weeds and not the lawn.' Cost of this bottle is just under 10 bucks.
If you have a sprayer, get some concentrated Round-up and mix it with water when you get back OR buy:
The 1 gallon bottle with the hand-sprayer of Round-up (right about 15 bucks).
Total cost so far: Like 50 bucks, I think (that's without a spreader).

Now you need to watch the weather because you need to do this about 48 hours before any rain AND it would be best to do the Weed-killer AND the Round-up in bright sunlight (temperature is no issue, it is ok if it's cool outside but sunlight is a must or it is not as effective).

Steps:
With the spreader, spread the lime and the fertilizer ALL over the yard.
Read the instructions and then select the appropriate setting.
It does not matter which you do first (Lime or Fert) but do ONE then the Other, do not mix the two just do one first, the other last.
...
The trick with the spreader is this:
- No matter how fast you walk, the chemical will flow through the opening at the SAME rate. The faster you walk, the farther the chemical flies AND the more territory you can cover. Slower walk gets more concentration.
Thus:
- If you walk faster, you will get a wider and finer spread (less chemical over a larger area).
- If you walk slower, you get less of a spread and MORE chemical per sq. foot.
Start out with a normal walk, and kinda gauge as you go, increase / decrease your speed with the ultimate goal being that you run out of chemical at the same time you run out of yard (best of luck).
A good setting for someone who is kinda new with a spreader is about 1/4 to 1/3 of an opening. If you are new, NEVER open more than 1/3'rd for it will flow out very fast and you may get skru'd, easy does it.
With the spreader: Select the chute setting and open/close it a few times to see if you 'got it.' Then close the chute and empty your first bag into the spreader. Now:
Open the chute AND start walking simultaneously BUT:
Once you start walking, do NOT STOP until you run out! The reason is the chute may not close even if you hit the lever, the chemical can continue to run out and if you stop walking you will get a pile of chemical and it continues to drain all the while you are standing still, and a pile of fertilizer will kill that spot of lawn. Not only that, but it looks bad and does not help. So one more time: Once you start walking, do not stop until the spreader is empty.
When the spreader is NEAR empty, it helps to jolt it back-and-forth to get the last bit through the hole and THEN: Stop the spreader and close the chute and Leave the spreader where you stopped! Do NOT take the spreader back to where you have the bags or you will not remember where you stopped!
Instead, walk to where the bags are and grab the next bag and walk back to the spreader. Check to make sure you really did close the chute, and empty the next bag into the spreader.
Repeat until done.
...
Once the chem is spread, screw the Ortho Lawn Weed killer bottle applicator onto your garden hose and proceed to spray your entire lawn with this BUT:
Remember the applicator produces a Horizontal spray, and even thou a Vertical spray would be nice, you will need to adjust your method and the easiest way to do it is up-and-down. A vertical spray would allow you to go side-to-side but since we do not have that option, up-and-down it is.
The procedure with the sprayer is easy, basically cover your entire lawn and make sure it is nice and wet but do not 'water' the lawn, just make sure you cover everything and read the directions and do NOT spray on plants because it kills plants!

Once that is done, get the Round-up and cover all those weeds or grass in the rock-beds. Be careful not to get it on the plants or the lawn, it is a TOTAL vegetation killer and is very powerful and doesn't care. Cover the weeds and grass nice and good, stems and leaves.

Well, that's for starters...
Now if you got some money and a pick-up truck, run out and get a cubic yard of mulch, here's the skinny:
Double-shredded fiber is the most cost-effective mulch out and costs a LOT less than Premium double-shredded hardwood and is just as good, basically.
But if you want some mulch that lasts more than a few weeks, buy a yard of designer mulch - You can get Red / Auburn, black, or Chestnut brown (this last is the closest color to real mulch). Yes, it costs about twice as much as the fiber and maybe 20% more than the Premium.
However, designer mulch lasts at least a year or two before it needs to be re-applied.
By the way, spread the mulch THIN or you will run out, a yard is just enough and not extra. If you want to be sure, get 2 yards. Basically if you get the reddest mulch you can get, it will look somewhat like the xp pic.
If you do NOT have a way to get the mulch to your house and since you only need a yard or two, the following options apply:
1) Order the mulch BUT a lot of places have minimum orders AND there is usually a 35-dollar delivery fee AND you have to spread it.
2) Call a lawncare company that delivers AND spreads small amounts like that. If you were to call me, I'd charge you around 110 dollars/2 yards, and I'd likely get it done with 1 yard but 1 yard does cost 60 dollars.
3) Buy the bags of mulch at Home Depot, they come in 2 cu. ft./bag and cost several bucks each or so, I'd say 10-15 bags should do. To play it safe, get 8 bags and be ready to go back for more but with 8 bags spread you will have a better idea how much you need to finish OR buy all 15 the first time and if you have too much, just spread the left-over on top of the existing mulch for a thicker cover.

Hope is help,
Pascal

[rokinrandy]

pascal , you are d man :cool: i will be more than happy to give you plumbing , guitar,or any building advice for all that info,,thanks alot,randy

[Cleanmaxx Brian]

WOW!!! Pascal, what a great reply! This is how you help us newbies!!!

[pagefault]

I wouldn't apply anything without a soil analysis:

http://www.groworganic.com/item_SVS100_SoilAnalysisReport.html

Don't forget to get the info that explains the test results:

http://www.groworganic.com/item_SVS004_UnderstandingYourSoilAnalysisRep.html

It sounds silly that these are separate, until you think about it. Even as a homeowner, you might have soil analysis done many times over the years, but you only need one booklet.

My personal favorite general purpose application is Medina HastGro Lawn. It's available in a quart-sized bottle with built-in applicator:

http://medina.theshoppe.com/hastagro_12_4_8_lawn_food_quart.html

or a gallon bottle:

http://medina.theshoppe.com/hastagro_12_4_8_lawn_food_gallon.html

One quart covers 4000 square feet.

Personally, I think the best weed control is a healthy, vigorous lawn. The way to a healthy, vigorous lawn, IMO, is soil management and proper mowing.

[Toy2]

Pascal is the man......give us more info....we need that brain picked.... :)

[Runner]

[QUOTE=pagefault]I wouldn't apply anything without a soil analysis:QUOTE]

I was just going to say,...great post, lots of info, and consideration to post so much, and having the will to help. However, what's with all the "spreading lime" stuff. Where does THAT come from? First, we have no CLUE if this lawn needs lime or not. I don't why it is, but some people just jump to lime as a "cure all", or something.
First, what have the temperatures been like? Rain? What was it like when these pics were taken? To me, it looks like there is more going on than just "lime deficiency". I am only on for a quick sec. for lunch, but I would love to address this (these) issues from a more logical standpoint, before you just run to the big box store and buy a whole bunch of stuff that MAY not be the most beneficial (and possibly adverse) to your lawn.

[rokinrandy]

[QUOTE=pagefault]I wouldn't apply anything without a soil analysis:QUOTE]

I was just going to say,...great post, lots of info, and consideration to post so much, and having the will to help. However, what's with all the "spreading lime" stuff. Where does THAT come from? First, we have no CLUE if this lawn needs lime or not. I don't why it is, but some people just jump to lime as a "cure all", or something.
First, what have the temperatures been like? Rain? What was it like when these pics were taken? To me, it looks like there is more going on than just "lime deficiency". I am only on for a quick sec. for lunch, but I would love to address this (these) issues from a more logical standpoint, before you just run to the big box store and buy a whole bunch of stuff that MAY not be the most beneficial (and possibly adverse) to your lawn.
the temp here has been cooler than usual ..today it has been in the upper 60's ..but average it is in the 80's until july and we stay upper 80's-the 90's .we have been getting descent rainfall about once to three times a week..i would say that our wheather conditions have been super ..my yard is centipede and a small amount of rye like the average carolina yard ..i am glad yall have gave me this info because i really needed it and i will practice it..but i was wondering more about the scape design i was working on in the pics as well..thank u much

[sheshovel]

I would plant six birchs in center front about 25'out from house,loose the rocks.
bring the front flowerbed way out and set a bench in the middle facing out to hide the hose,
then I would install a pathway (meandering )from drvway thru yard in front of the bench with a little foot landing then continued over to the side gate.
and plant larger shrub and plants around the bench and pathway.
then put nice metal trellis with curly design center windows and plant a flowering vine there.and
a few plants around the outside birch area but faceing bench only.
What your doing is creating an area thet you can sit out and enjoy without being fully exposed to the public,
plus your breaking up the huge expanse of lawn that is out of proportion with the house,plus softening the harsh edges of the brick home.

[rokinrandy]

that sounds good,real good ms. shovel..i am glad you noticed the yard is really out of proportion to the house.. this is one of the factors i did not consider when i bought the home..and it is making it hard on a newbie like me..these 2 windows with the hose is actually what you see at the road i am at the corner of the culdisac ..so if i sat out there my neighbors would see me point blank getting drunk scratchin my butt and all that other stuff so...butt i have like an old coca cola decorative bench i can fix up and try that and i can build a trellace there..my only problem is loose the rocks..i have lots and lots and lots of these things :help: ..they are all in the back yard most of them..about 7 f-150 loads of them.i could pile these back with them.what is wierd with my house is the front of my house is the side and the side of my house is facing the road like it is the front..if that makes any sense..thanks for this beautifull idea..i pictured it in my mind word for word,randy

[Pro-Scapes]

[QUOTE=pagefault]I wouldn't apply anything without a soil analysis:QUOTE]

I was just going to say,...great post, lots of info, and consideration to post so much, and having the will to help. However, what's with all the "spreading lime" stuff. Where does THAT come from? First, we have no CLUE if this lawn needs lime or not. I don't why it is, but some people just jump to lime as a "cure all", or something.
First, what have the temperatures been like? Rain? What was it like when these pics were taken? To me, it looks like there is more going on than just "lime deficiency". I am only on for a quick sec. for lunch, but I would love to address this (these) issues from a more logical standpoint, before you just run to the big box store and buy a whole bunch of stuff that MAY not be the most beneficial (and possibly adverse) to your lawn.

I totally agree. dont just jump to "magical cures" that may not work at all for you. A full soil test is a must due to the fact you dont know what others have put down or not put down. Alot of Pascals advice was great and I really have alot of respect for them taking all that time to type that out. A soil test and then fixing only what needs fixing as far as your levels will yield much better results than just guessing that lime will fix it. I have also never put down lime and fert at the same time. I was always told not to do them together and wait a month or 2 in between applications. I like the birch tree idea from sheshovel. she seems to know what shes talking about. That would bring things into proportion alot more.

In short there is no magical overnight cure that comes in a bag. A magical quick perfect lawn is called properly installed SOD ... good luck and keep up the hard work.

[sheshovel]

Actually rand, the six birches planted in groups of 3&3 would effectively block the view from the road.Don't foundation plant,bring the plantings out and away from the home .I tried to draw on the pic you have but did not save in the right format to send and post here.Will try again,also raise the planting areas up.I like rocks,just not a whole lot of small rocks,too busy looking and unsettling.

[sheshovel]

well I gave it a try .Not an artist enless it's real I guess. good luck rand. P.S. put the rocks all within the birches bases like a ground cover for them

[Runner]

Holy Cow! Now, you talk about someone putting time and effort into helping someone out... Now THAT is consideration.

[topsites]

[QUOTE=pagefault]I wouldn't apply anything without a soil analysis:QUOTE]

I was just going to say,...great post, lots of info, and consideration to post so much, and having the will to help. However, what's with all the "spreading lime" stuff. Where does THAT come from? First, we have no CLUE if this lawn needs lime or not. I don't why it is, but some people just jump to lime as a "cure all", or something.
First, what have the temperatures been like? Rain? What was it like when these pics were taken? To me, it looks like there is more going on than just "lime deficiency". I am only on for a quick sec. for lunch, but I would love to address this (these) issues from a more logical standpoint, before you just run to the big box store and buy a whole bunch of stuff that MAY not be the most beneficial (and possibly adverse) to your lawn.

Well now I been doing this for about 4 years and most my yards look good, and I have never done soil analysis because it cost too much money and takes too much time and I go by how it looks. This green-thumb thing is kinda like cooking - You can use a thermometer to check the temperature or just wait until you see the bubbles in the water, then that means it is boiling.
I mean if you want to spend several hundreds of dollars then by all means you should do all that extra stuff because it is the proper scientific way but...

If you want to get technical, Lime is a base chemical and works like a baking soda, it absorbs acid. You can not hurt your lawn by putting down lime, even if it doesn't need it, even if you put down too much, it has only a neutralizing effect that, when it isn't needed, simply does nothing. So the first reason to put down lime is to neutralize the acid in the soil, whether it needs it, or not.
The second reason is that lime roughly doubles the effect of the fertilizer as, if you read on the bag of lime, I forget the exact words, but it tells you that.
Lime is great for your yard, you can put it down anytime and you can put it down in any quantity you want because even if you put down WAY too much, you can NOT hurt your lawn and it is almost always at least somewhat beneficial. In addition, at 3 dollars/bag, lime is cheap improvement.

Here in Virginia and for those of us who are crazy about Lime, we like to put down about 1,000 lbs. of lime/year (so that's like 50 bags) on 1/4 to 1/3 acre yards (12-15k sq.ft) but no we do not put it all down at once because if you do, your entire lawn looks chalky (especially after it rains). So maybe 10 bags in spring, 12 in fall is good. As you can see this is considerably more than what I recommend in the first post and the reason is the benefit is intended mainly to improve the effect of the fertilizer as it did not appear from the pictures that the soil was overly acidic. Yes, I could be wrong but it does not matter, the man wastes 18 dollars at most if I am wrong but the Lime still doubles the effect of the fertilizer regardless.

Also if you think you should put down more Lime than what I said then you go right ahead because you can do so safely. At 3 dollars/bag, by the time you've done the soil analysis, you could've done put down the lime and for the same or less money, be done! Now if the soil analysis comes back and lo and behold - You do not need lime!... Then I suppose it may be possible that it would be cheaper to have done the analysis BUT only if the analysis itself costs less than 30 dollars (the cost of 10 bags of lime) and then IF the analysis comes back tell you that you DO need lime, well then now you get to spend more money. Thus is the reasons why I said to go ahead and put down the lime and yes, I always bypass expensive soil analysis because just like with cooking, I add salt if I think it is needed, whether the chemical analysis later shows that my salting might could raise your cholesterol, well hell, did the food taste good? Yup? Good, then Bon appetit.

In my business, I look out for the customer because my customers really like it when they save a dollar. Yes I desperately need the money but taking every last dollar from one my customers is a very bad idea because it is bad for repeat business and also word-of-mouth will backstab you HARD in this area. If I were my own customer and I found out that I was ripping myself off, I would go look for a different lawn service. And perhaps if this is the case then you should do that, too.

You are the customer and ultimately you are in charge, don't believe every piece of hype because green-thumbing isn't really all that complimacated.
Add a little salt, a bit of pepper, and voila. Tastes good, don't it.
Peace

[rokinrandy]

so lime is for yards with a high acid content?? this is very likely..would pine straw cause a high acidic content..the spots that are real bad are plagued by my neighbors pine straw..if not pine straw it's weeds...i like the pic ms. shovel :cool2: ..looks like i have some work to do this week end..or maybe a few week ends..i love it :blob3:

[arkylady]

In the aquarium hobby, many people use baking soda to adjust the pH level of their aquariums. No matter how much baking soda you put in, it will only raise the pH to a certain level which isn't overly alkaline (8.2 to be exact).

Since the nitrification process in a lawn is the same as an aquarium, I agree with what topsites is saying. Or at least the logic behind it :)

[rokinrandy]

ok i did a little picture on xp paint..the same pic yall referedto ont the thread starter..i shaded in the busy rocks..on this pic the the small bushes are not in uniform measurement but the pic gives the idea.. my wife fell in love with the flower box and the trlleace idea and loosing the rocks,she said she knows how to grow some roses..running roses run out of control down here..the big flat sided boulder from the boulder stricken bed i have will make a great water fall piece..ill buy a whiskey barrel cut in half and put in in front of the boulder and pump a water feature with a light hiden by some kind of flower or something. you will see the boulder in this xp pic but not the barrel because i am not a pc mouse painter..it is time consuming.we are not quite ready for the trees yet and we need access to the double gate on the side of the house for the truck.all of you guys rock and are great people,thanks for all this advice!!!! the file was to large just click this link and look at idea #80000000

[rokinrandy]

ok here it is i hope it is not so small you can not see it

[rokinrandy]

dag on :dizzy: that should be big enough

[Runner]

[QUOTE=Runner]

Well now I been doing this for about 4 years and most my yards look good, and I have never done soil analysis because it cost too much money and takes too much time and I go by how it looks.

Now, I'm not saying that a soil test is necessary in all cases. While you've been doing this for 4 about years, I can certainly appreciate that. I've been doing this for just over 20. A soil analyis will at BEST cost you about 15 bucks.

If you want to get technical, Lime is a base chemical and works like a baking soda, it absorbs acid. You can not hurt your lawn by putting down lime, even if it doesn't need it, even if you put down too much, it has only a neutralizing effect that, when it isn't needed, simply does nothing. So the first reason to put down lime is to neutralize the acid in the soil, whether it needs it, or not.

This statement, unfiortunately is totally incorrect. What are the effects of alkaline soil? That can cause difficulties and problems for turf growth just like acidic soils can.

The second reason is that lime roughly doubles the effect of the fertilizer as, if you read on the bag of lime, I forget the exact words, but it tells you that.
Lime is great for your yard, you can put it down anytime and you can put it down in any quantity you want because even if you put down WAY too much, you can NOT hurt your lawn and it is almost always at least somewhat beneficial. In addition, at 3 dollars/bag, lime is cheap improvement.

This is incorrect, also. Established lawns, athletic fields, cemeteries, golf-course fairways and other turfgrass areas should not receive more than 100 pounds of limestone per 1,000 square feet in any single surface application. The main reason for this is to ensure that a layer of excess residue does not remain on or near the surface after watering. This can clog the surface.

Also if you think you should put down more Lime than what I said then you go right ahead because you can do so safely. At 3 dollars/bag, by the time you've done the soil analysis, you could've done put down the lime and for the same or less money, be done!

Again, it can be overdone.

In my business, I look out for the customer because my customers really like it when they save a dollar. If I were my own customer and I found out that I was ripping myself off, I would go look for a different lawn service.



In our business, we do the same, but we like to do a bit of homework to ensure that the hard earned money the customer is spending is in fact going to benefit his needs to the fullest. Would a customer rather have someone that just throws stuff down and charges for it, or applies something that is certain to be in need and be of full benefit to their turfs needs. Either way, I'm not here to be in a spitting match, just trying to give sound advice. I'm sure if Ric, Tremor, Jim (Groundkprs), or Tim who has a Bachelor Degree read this, they could concur with this.

[topsites]

[QUOTE=topsites]

In our business, we do the same, but we like to do a bit of homework to ensure that the hard earned money the customer is spending is in fact going to benefit his needs to the fullest. Would a customer rather have someone that just throws stuff down and charges for it, or applies something that is certain to be in need and be of full benefit to their turfs needs. Either way, I'm not here to be in a spitting match, just trying to give sound advice. I'm sure if Ric, Tremor, Jim (Groundkprs), or Tim who has a Bachelor Degree read this, they could concur with this.

Ok I see your point... I assumed the customer would do the work himself although it is very possible he might hire someone, at which point if they recommended a soil-test, well then that would likely be beneficial.

Still you need at least 2 bags of lime WITH the fertilizer due to the magnesium in the Lime which works in conjunction with chemicals in the fertilizer to produce an effect that roughly doubles that of fertilizer alone.

Also I think Home Depot might sell soil-test kits for the do-it-yourselfer :-)

[rokinrandy]

i am definitely going to do the work.i can do the work of 5 mexicans payup .plus i need the landscaping experience,at least something besides mowing and raking and crap like that..i like being creative and i have to sweat a little every day..i just wonder if pine straw makes high acid in soil..and if not what else causes high acid content

[Runner]

I'm sorry,...to answer that question,...yes. Pine straw is exTREMEly acidic, and easily moves into the soil. This is one reason why turf doesn't grow very well under pine trees. (even after they're cut high for light). Other trees such as oak do this over time, as well.

[sheshovel]

rockinrand.... your gonna need to do better than that,I don't like that your exaggerating the squareness of the house and your gonna need tree's and the bed shape is VERY WRONG!! and you not useing the yard to it's full potential,Though you are buget limited,if you start out with the right idea in mind,you can add as you can afford it.What you drew is not the right idea at all nor is it creative ..But it's your place,just my professional opinion. :cool2:

[rokinrandy]

yes,i was going to add as i can afford..the lay out on the pic is wrong due to me not being a good artist .i am much better at using a scale ruler and so on..and this is just pahase one i guess i can say.i like what you had in mind personally..i would also like that type of idea on the other side of the house as well.what do you think about the little water feature idea(could'nt draw that in either..the only issues that come to mind in the part of the house with the pic is if you look you can see my water ditribution box..i sure don't want no trees near that or the water main and being able to drive in the double gate with my truck ..next year i hope to add trees and stepping stones ...the front is a little over a 1/4 acrepart of the fron is to the far right outside of the pic..this section in the pic is very small.. and my back yard is over an acre..in another 2 years i want a pool..i will keep my progress posted..thanks so much ms shovel

[rokinrandy]

ok this is a little closer to the drawing you had ..but i am still in the habbit of being uniform and square (bad habbit i picked up from building)..it is like an echo of the house.but the shrubs are a little different..

[sheshovel]

OK but round out the point(bad Feng Shui) and plant both sides of the path.The point thing should be rounded out to match the barrel roundness if for no other reason,water feature is OK,
but bring the bench out of the flowerbed and you don't have to step into it to sit down..
My last on this,hope it helps, so just stay with the pathway thing,but plant both sides.
The reason I suggested you bringing the plantings AWAY from the foundation of the home is because just planting that way makes the yard POP and lends less impact to the house itself.
Plus up-to-the base of the house planting is pretty much OUT as far as landscape design trend has gone in the last 10 years.
It's more difficult to maintain,
encourages moisture at the house foundation and is BORING.
Loose the small rocks no matter what you do they will look bad..... Sheshovel

[sheshovel]

Holy Cow! Now, you talk about someone putting time and effort into helping someone out... Now THAT is consideration.

Thankyou very much runner,your very nice to say that! :waving: Sheshovel

[rokinrandy]

..
My last on this,hope it helps, so just stay with the pathway thing,but plant both sides.
.. Sheshovel gee,and i was going to send you plane tickets so you could do this thing..lol .. thanks,randy

[rokinrandy]

well,when i get finished here in the back yard i will start on the front..lol

[rokinrandy]

Ok there are only a few things I can cover because my specialty is lawncare and mulch, and what follows is based on your pictures so here goes:

You need a broad-cast spreader! If you do not have one, you will need to buy one or maybe you can borrow one from a neighbor.

- To make the grass look good, run to Home Depot and buy:
4 to 6 bags of pelletized Lime (they're about 3 bucks each, 40lb. bags).
- The lime is in white-green bags and make sure you don't get the powdered cheap stuff because the powder SUX with the spreader.
hope is help,
Pascal and i almost forgot to mention pascal...man! the limestone pellets were 2.83 at home depot..a very cheap fix indeed ...instant over nite results for me ..thank u..every other landscaper in town always tried to get to pay for the soil samples (which is but more than 40 bucks in my town i think around 60)or just buy this high tech lawn care product for 50-80 dollars a month..i guess with you being in virginia and me in nc we share the same habitat basicly so what works for you worked for me..i just want to show a fewbefore and after pics and i will quit adding to this thread and leave it for future readers so here and thanks every one. this pic is a freshly watered lawn before lime

[rokinrandy]

now this is a freshly watered lawn 1 day after lime..i have not hit the back with lime .only the fert you suggested on the back lawn..i wanted to see the outcome..if you look close the back turned a little greener but it is still pale back there by all the bushes compared to the front..

[rokinrandy]

now i also have been told not to fert a centipede and not to add lime..what is so ironic i have been told only lime a centipede lawn and not to add fert. :dizzy: .this advice was from 2 different elderly womon that both had awesome yards that i did some plumbing addition for...evidently ..lime is the ticket in my case...thanks for the help every one.. :waving:

[betterlawn]

In Ohio it costs like $12 to get your soil analyzed by the extension service. Is that not normal? I never did it in Michigan. Seems like lime could have hurt the lawn just as easily as it could have helped it.

[rokinrandy]

i don't know it could be 12 dollars but i am not a landscaper...i think i just run upon crooks all the time that want to test and see what they can get from me to be totaly honest...but every one i have asked down here since i have been visiting this forum and asking alot of qyestions are just homeowners and not landscapers use lime and highly recomend it because of all the pine that makes the acid content high...majority of the people i talk to highly recomend lime for centipede.and i have heard from everyone that lime will not hurt the yard..and all these people have beautiful yards..i have learned that high acid soil is a very common issue in this area and is usually the problem besides needing to aireate or debatch,which is what i will do next..