PDA

View Full Version : changing oil without making a mess


nov141992
05-31-2005, 05:39 PM
I just changed the oil for the first time on a used 2002 Exmark TT HP w/Kawi 17hp engine that I just bought. What a mess. The engine deck has a slotted hole beside the horizontally oriented engine drain plug. I put a large drain pan beneath the slotted hole. Problem is when you pull the plug all of the oil doesn't conveniently go thru the hole, a lot of it spills all over the top of the engine deck. If you own one of these you can picture what I'm talking about, if not this probably doesn't make much sense. Or perhaps most Walk Behinds have this arrangement, I don't know.

I'm thinking there's got to be a trick or technique to doing this without making such a mess every time. Can any one tell me how to do this without spilling oil?

Also there actually are two drain plugs on this engine. The Kawasaki engine manual that came with the mower doesn't reference both of them. Any one know which is preferred to use and why? I suspect it doesn't matter. Both are at the same elevation so I wouldn't think they both need ot be pulled (plus again the manual doesn't even mention the second one).

Thanks for any help.

ed2hess
05-31-2005, 06:35 PM
On the single cylinder engines 12-15hp I pump it out. After taking the filter off then I pump anything remaining through the filter hole. I have doing this for years on all our equipment and don't see any down side. On the dual cylinder engines I get a lid off a plastic storage contrainer and put my oil pan on it. I agree oil seems to go everwhere but at least I catch it in the lid.

dutch1
05-31-2005, 08:08 PM
If you have an air compressor, the Thomas Industries air activated vacuum pump would be a worthy investment. Oil can be sucked right out of the oil fill tube. No mess-no fuss.

mike76
05-31-2005, 08:41 PM
Take the numbers off the engine and get a valve made for the engine. After you put it on then all you have to do is connect a hose and open the valve and put the oil where you want it. Very sinple very clean.

Lawn Masters
06-01-2005, 12:24 AM
Were it my engine, I'd take the drain plug off, put a short piece of metal tubing with threads on both ends, and a 90degree elbow with a threaded plug that points straight down over the drain point in the chassis. simple solution thats VERY effective.

nov141992
06-01-2005, 09:04 AM
Thanks for all the replies so far. I know that oil drain valves are available for automobiles. If anyone knows of a source for mower engines, please let me know. I think my custom making one (or paying some one else to do so) for this engine would be problematic since the existng drain plug uses an o ring gland to create a seal.

Im just surprised that a manufacturer would make it so that it's almost impossible to not make a mess when doing a basic oil change. If any one has any other advice / work arounds please speak up.

Thanks

lwcmattlifter
06-01-2005, 04:32 PM
Did you change the oil filter yet? That's just as messy.

nov141992
06-01-2005, 04:57 PM
I removed the oil filter after removing the drain plug and allowing the oil to drain for a while, so for me the oil filter replacement wasn't that messy. At least it's possible to get a small container somewhat directly beneath the filter.

rander
06-02-2005, 03:19 PM
The link below will take you to a site where you can order a valve to fit your oil drain plug port. These valves are a bit pricey but are very well made and work very well. I use them on a number of pieces of equipment.

http://www.fumotovalve.com/

I also use a Liqui-Vac vacuum oil sucker to change oil on some of the equipment and vehicles. It sucks the oil out through the dip stick tube on the cars and trucks and through the oil fill port on the smaller equipment. There are several makes of the vacuum oil suckers. About the only thing I have found they won't work on are some motorcycles and ATV motors that you can't get the tube to go to the bottom of the oil pan.

nov141992
06-02-2005, 04:33 PM
The link below will take you to a site where you can order a valve to fit your oil drain plug port. These valves are a bit pricey but are very well made and work very well. I use them on a number of pieces of equipment.

http://www.fumotovalve.com/

I also use a Liqui-Vac vacuum oil sucker to change oil on some of the equipment and vehicles. It sucks the oil out through the dip stick tube on the cars and trucks and through the oil fill port on the smaller equipment. There are several makes of the vacuum oil suckers. About the only thing I have found they won't work on are some motorcycles and ATV motors that you can't get the tube to go to the bottom of the oil pan.

Thanks for the information. From looking at the site they offer a version of the valve with a nipple for attaching a hose. From looking at the different categories though I don't see a listing for Kawasaki engines. They do have a listing for Kohler and B&S but all of those drain valves are for engines with tapered pipe threads (not likely found on a mower engine).

How do shops that service mowers deal with this? Perhaps like you they use an oil sucker. I'd be interested to hear from people who service these for a living.

Restrorob
06-02-2005, 06:08 PM
Thanks for the information. From looking at the site they offer a version of the valve with a nipple for attaching a hose. From looking at the different categories though I don't see a listing for Kawasaki engines. They do have a listing for Kohler and B&S but all of those drain valves are for engines with tapered pipe threads (not likely found on a mower engine).

How do shops that service mowers deal with this? Perhaps like you they use an oil sucker. I'd be interested to hear from people who service these for a living.


Ok, :cool2: I use a oil sucker for hard to get to or messy oil changes,I spent over half hour searching all my Dealer Resources for a oil drain valve that will fit the Kawasaki metric threaded plug and found none !
My next step is to check out Honda mower engines seems I faintly remember a type of drain extension on them.It may take a couple days to find out but I've got to satisfy my curiosity now !

fixer67
06-02-2005, 10:23 PM
OK, this may sound odd but it saves a lot of cleaning up. I save the ads from the Sunday newspaper that have the wax like glossy coating on them. When I have to drain the oil in a problem engine I make a gutter out of the the glossy paper so the oil goes straight into the drain pan. I use a few small magnets to hold the paper in place. The oil does not go though the glossy coating and when done I just trash the paper. It quick and easy and saves a lot of mess. It sounds odd but it works. Just try it sometime.

bob
06-02-2005, 10:46 PM
Thanks for the information. From looking at the site they offer a version of the valve with a nipple for attaching a hose. From looking at the different categories though I don't see a listing for Kawasaki engines. They do have a listing for Kohler and B&S but all of those drain valves are for engines with tapered pipe threads (not likely found on a mower engine).
Call this company up, http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/index.php?cPath=12&html=fumoto.htm&osCsid=92d1efd9478038dfb9e64d44819dbec5
I got a Fumoto for my Gravely and my Duramax from them.

Restrorob
06-03-2005, 06:36 AM
OK, this may sound odd but it saves a lot of cleaning up. I save the ads from the Sunday newspaper that have the wax like glossy coating on them. When I have to drain the oil in a problem engine I make a gutter out of the the glossy paper so the oil goes straight into the drain pan. I use a few small magnets to hold the paper in place. The oil does not go though the glossy coating and when done I just trash the paper. It quick and easy and saves a lot of mess. It sounds odd but it works. Just try it sometime.


I have used the flap off a cardboard box and formed a trough which worked very well also.

mmacsek
06-03-2005, 07:10 AM
I use an oil drain valve from www.mowmore.com on my WB. The rider has a quick change from the factory. The valve costs 7 or 8 dollars and includes the tygon tubing to direct the oil flow. The oil filter is another story. Matt

The C Man
06-05-2005, 05:34 PM
I know someone posted a pic in another thread of a setup he put together with a ball valve, but I just did a search and couldn't find it. It looked like a great solution though so I copied it. Here's what mine looks like...

It's not as close to the tire as it looks, there's plenty of clearance.

Restrorob
06-05-2005, 06:24 PM
I know someone posted a pic in another thread of a setup he put together with a ball valve, but I just did a search and couldn't find it. It looked like a great solution though so I copied it. Here's what mine looks like...

It's not as close to the tire as it looks, there's plenty of clearance.


Good job is this a kawasaki engine ? Where did you find the fitting to screw into the engine that takes the place of the factory metric o-ring type plug ?

The C Man
06-05-2005, 07:30 PM
Good job is this a kawasaki engine ? Where did you find the fitting to screw into the engine that takes the place of the factory metric o-ring type plug ?
It's a B&S engine. The fitting and small section of pipe leading to the 90° elbow was already on the mower when I bought it new, so I can't answer that question, sorry.

There was a cap where the elbow is now. It was easy to take off the wheel, but it was still messy to take the cap off to drain the oil, so I replaced the cap with the elbow, the ball valve, and the end plug.

grass_cuttin_fool
06-05-2005, 07:52 PM
I have used the flap off a cardboard box and formed a trough which worked very well also.
That is what I do also, works okay and doesnt cost much either lol :waving:

RedWingsDet
06-05-2005, 08:01 PM
I have used the flap off a cardboard box and formed a trough which worked very well also.

thats what I do, execpt with my truck (the skid plate interfears with the drainage). My exmark doesnt make that big of a mess.

quidproquo
06-12-2005, 11:29 PM
I use "Drainzit" extensions from Northern Tool www.northerntool.com. They work well and come in various metric sizes.