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john gov.
06-18-2005, 08:51 PM
I just made a big mistake. First I paid too much for a 1974 ($600) but it looked real sharp and I knew what I was buying iy for, sort of a yard tractor for my wife and I could cut the rough stuff out back a few times a year. Well, it didn't last five minutes. I would say it ran for two minutes before my son ran the rpm's up real high then engaged the deck. I was coming after him to slow it down when I heard that unmistakeable sound of a rod letting go.
I got the engine out and tore it down (It's a Kohler 10 hp) model K241AS. The only apparent damage is the busted rod.
My question is how dumb would it be if I just replaced the rod & bearing assembly, threw on a set of piston rings and put her back together without pulling the crank and having it machined? Should I just throw the whole thing out and kiss off my $600? Should I buy another engine, or should I take the engine to a shop and have them put it right. Either way I go I'm in too deep.
Any market for John Deere lawn ornament? Has a nice paint job and a brand new seat. Thanks for any advice.
John Gov.

Lawn Masters
06-18-2005, 09:24 PM
An engine that old, is more than likely to break again if you just put a new rod in it, I'd put a new engine on it and keep on goin.

Restrorob
06-18-2005, 10:57 PM
I just made a big mistake. First I paid too much for a 1974 ($600) but it looked real sharp and I knew what I was buying iy for, sort of a yard tractor for my wife and I could cut the rough stuff out back a few times a year. Well, it didn't last five minutes. I would say it ran for two minutes before my son ran the rpm's up real high then engaged the deck. I was coming after him to slow it down when I heard that unmistakeable sound of a rod letting go.
I got the engine out and tore it down (It's a Kohler 10 hp) model K241AS. The only apparent damage is the busted rod.
My question is how dumb would it be if I just replaced the rod & bearing assembly, threw on a set of piston rings and put her back together without pulling the crank and having it machined? Should I just throw the whole thing out and kiss off my $600? Should I buy another engine, or should I take the engine to a shop and have them put it right. Either way I go I'm in too deep.
Any market for John Deere lawn ornament? Has a nice paint job and a brand new seat. Thanks for any advice.
John Gov.

First of all can you tell me in what area did the rod break,Up by the piston,In the center or at the crank,Did the rod cap break. This info. could tell a story as to why it broke in the first place. It is not dumb to only replace a rod if the crankshaft is within specs.,But I don't understand what you mean when you say replace the rod & bearing for there is no bearing in this rod.

john gov.
06-19-2005, 12:09 AM
The rod broke halfway up itself and the cap (if that's the piece that bolts to the bottom of the rod) was in pieces. I thought there would be a sleeve bearing between the rod and the crank, but now I recall there were no sleeve bearing pieces in the debris so I must have been thinking automotive. ..no bearing here.
Is there a way to check the roundness of the crank without pulling it and how critical is it to be in perfect spec?
So you think this might shed some light on the initial problem. Ya know, I thought it was reving extremly high when my son got on it. I had just run a couple of rows myself without a problem. Sure she smoked a bit but I took it easy. I did have the throttle up and now I'm wondering if the governor didn't do it's job when my son got on board because the high rpm's really got my attention and I don't think I got her up that high when I was running her.
So yeah, can I just strap another rod on this rig and not blow it up again?
Thanks,
John Gov.

Restrorob
06-19-2005, 09:08 AM
Ok what this has told me is that it is most likely the rod broke from the over rev.,You can get a micrometer on the crank without removal and check for out of round and it shouldn't be more than .0005 ,I tried to download the service manual from my dealer web and couldn't do so for some reason so I don't have the crank reject size available today,But can have tomorrow when I return to work. You would also want to replace the gov. gear while its apart.
If the crank is within specs. and the gov. replaced and adjusted properly I really see no reason for it to blow again,Have done this same repair many times in the past.

john gov.
06-19-2005, 10:43 AM
Thanks for the help. I'll measure the crank and look for the governor gear. When I think governor I think of something electrical or vacuum. I never thought it would be a gear.
Would the best place to buy parts be the local John Deere dealer or is there a site here that you all work with online?
john gov.

Restrorob
06-19-2005, 05:19 PM
Thanks for the help. I'll measure the crank and look for the governor gear. When I think governor I think of something electrical or vacuum. I never thought it would be a gear.
Would the best place to buy parts be the local John Deere dealer or is there a site here that you all work with online?
john gov.

I havn't ran across a site for Kohler parts as of yet , But you could do some surfing yourself and find something. As for a John Deere dealer I would stay as far away from one of those as possible everything is higher there just because its a Deere. You can get these parts at any shop that sells Kohler powered equipment.

Tech man
06-19-2005, 07:53 PM
http://kohlerplus.com/login.asp

Hit the enter as guest button and look up your parts.

Restrorob
06-19-2005, 08:13 PM
This is the same website I use as a dealer,You may be able to get the service manual to down load on your computer and it will give you all the specs. needed for your repair,But you can't order parts from this site.

Smalltimer1
06-19-2005, 11:17 PM
Yes you can rebuild it if there's not a big hole in the block. I'm having the K-341 from my JD 300 rebuilt, rods are on backorder for Kohlers right now though, because the pulling crowd always re-rods this time of year for pulling season.

The K-series are very desireable engines for pullers, great low end torque and will last forever. The reason yours let go is probably because it was run low on oil at some point.

If at all possible, rebuild it, it shouldn't cost more than $450. My 341 is going to cost just a touch over $400.

Do not just re-rod it. Have it bored out, the crank ground, and new piston, rod, rings, and everything in that area, if you're gonna do it, do it right. You'll thank yourself later.

john gov.
06-20-2005, 09:04 PM
I got another question...among the debris field were two pieces of stamped steel, two thin as hair steel wires, a few washers and a little sleeve that looks like it might go with those two stamped steel pieces. I have no idea where they go. Can you help?
Thank you very much.
John Gov.

Restrorob
06-20-2005, 10:08 PM
I got another question...among the debris field were two pieces of stamped steel, two thin as hair steel wires, a few washers and a little sleeve that looks like it might go with those two stamped steel pieces. I have no idea where they go. Can you help?
Thank you very much.
John Gov.

Sounds to me that your describing what may be left of the governor,which only makes sence that it over revved then blew up.
Now is a good time to go to the above mentioned Kohler website and look at the break-down of your engine,You can look at the gov. and blow it up and see the parts you found and where they go. These parts you found are trash now and a new gov. is in order and it will come with the new washer.
If you happen to have a problem locating the break-down just post back and I'll give you a click by click run down.

john gov.
06-22-2005, 06:12 PM
Well those stamped metal pieces are not part of the governor bu6t are a part of some pressure relief thing that must have been set loose from up near the cam. I can find no trace of the governor. Could the governor have been removed prior to my buying this tractor?

Restrorob
06-22-2005, 07:43 PM
Well those stamped metal pieces are not part of the governor bu6t are a part of some pressure relief thing that must have been set loose from up near the cam. I can find no trace of the governor. Could the governor have been removed prior to my buying this tractor?

Ok if the pieces you found are not related to the gov. then its the compression release fingers off the camshaft, In this case the cam will have to be replaced. If you have never rebuilt a Kohler K Series engine I'm going to suggest to you that you go to your kohler dealer and have them order you a service manual the part # is TP-2379 You will need this if you continue yourself because the crankshaft will have to come out to remove the camshaft and the gov. is behind the cam. Most important should you remove the front cover plate do it carefully and retain any of the old gasket that can be measured for thickness with a micrometer,These gaskets are also shims for crankshaft end play adjustment.Measure the new gaskets and install the same thickness that was taken out.This process could save a good hour of assemble and disassemble time adjusting crank end play.
There are just too many details to explain on how to do a complete tear-down and reassembly,But the manual covers it very well.
In the event you don't understand something in the manual or have anymore other questions feel free to post back, I'll gladly help all I can !

john gov.
06-22-2005, 08:51 PM
Thanks for all the help. I think the square I come down on is the one that says I lost $600 on this and I'll just have to get over it. Whether I go with a new short block or buy all the parts I need and have the shop put things back together I'll be way upside down on this tractor. I guess I'll just keep it wraped up out back and see if an opportunity comes along.
Thanks again for the help. It was much appreciated.
john gov.

Restrorob
06-22-2005, 09:02 PM
Thanks for all the help. I think the square I come down on is the one that says I lost $600 on this and I'll just have to get over it. Whether I go with a new short block or buy all the parts I need and have the shop put things back together I'll be way upside down on this tractor. I guess I'll just keep it wraped up out back and see if an opportunity comes along.
Thanks again for the help. It was much appreciated.
john gov.

Kohler stopped building the k series years ago,so there is no longer a shortblock available the best that can be done is rebuild your old one.

Smalltimer1
06-22-2005, 09:10 PM
Kohler stopped building the k series years ago,so there is no longer a shortblock available the best that can be done is rebuild your old one.

Some warehouse places may have shortblocks. The K-series engines were manufactured new until 1995.

You may want to try www.smallenginewarehouse.com . They can help you find pretty much any engine.

Your next option could be to find a rebuildable engine in a basketcase 110. You can best accomplish this at www.weekendfreedommachines.org in the classifieds section. A good block probably will go for $100 or less if it doesn't run, which won't matter anyway since you'd be rebuilding it.

Keep the K!