View Full Version : NJ hydrosseding job gone bad..Help..

06-22-2005, 09:04 PM
I got my 15,000 sq feet backyard hydroseeded 2 months ago. I am in NJ. Lesco Athletic field mix, starter fert and wood fiber mulch was used. It came in pretty good in 3 weeks. Then the pithium hit and killed a pretty big section. The full sun area is full of crab grass. The only part of the yard that looks good is the shady area. The hydroseeder told me to put more starter fert down at the 3 week mark and 2 days later is when the fungus started. IT was very humid and moist. The wood fiber mulch was like the perfect breeding ground for the fungus. I put down antifungiside but it was too late.
I want to spray for the crabgrass but It seems like it is too hot 85-90.
Should I live with the weeds and patchy pithium areas untill Fall or is there something I can do now?
I am very disapointed in the yard and wished I waited untill Fall.

06-22-2005, 09:26 PM
Here are some pics.
The big one of the whole yard looks much better than it really is.

06-22-2005, 09:42 PM
Here is a close up of the fungus area

06-23-2005, 01:57 AM
How much starter fertilizer was put down?

Heat, humidity, moisture, nitrogen containing fertilizer and we wonder why we get fungus. There is a reason that it is recommended that cool season grasses be planted in the fall or eairly spring. That doesnt mean that cool season grass cant be planted in the summertime, it just means we have to be careful how we plant and care for it. Light frequent waterings with enought time inbetween the watering cycles to let the soil dry enough to breath. Using small amounts of nitrogen, instead of force feeding the grass encourgeing top growth and also encourageing fungus. Adjusting fertilizer rates for the method of application. Insureing that the soil is properly preped and proper drainage is provided. Summer seed establishment can be done but only if we plant for establishment. You can rush it but be prepared to pay the price.

06-27-2005, 07:21 PM
Should I overseed and put down some starter fert?

06-28-2005, 06:46 PM
Now the grass is looking yellow. Should I put down some starter fert??
I will over seed in the fall.

06-28-2005, 11:32 PM
You are asking questions i cant answer without seeing the results of a soil test and without knowing how much fertilizer or what blend has already been applied. The yellowing could be caused by lack of fertilizer or from to much of the wrong kind of fertilizer. I think a lot of the northern hydroseeders like to use tripple 19 fertilizer because Lesco recommends it as a starter fert.( which it isnt) If that is what your hydroseeder operator used you are probably suffering from to much murite of potash. If so, your lawn might benefit from extra watering. On the other foot, some like to use the miracal grow type ferts and if so then you might be suffering from not enough fertilizer. In this case a follow up fert using a good starter fertilizer will help. In any case dont hit it with a high nitrogen fertilizer, this will only contribute to the fungus problem you are already having.

Was you soil tested before the hydroseeding? What blend of fert did the applicator apply and how much?

choseing the wrong blend of fertilizer and excessive fertilizer rates are the number one cause of hydroseeding failures.

06-29-2005, 12:06 AM
What did you apply as a fungicide?

Why do you think its Pythium?

Can you post a pic of the leaf blade? (close up and fine exposure)

How much did you water?

Lack of proper watering is the highest cause of Hydroseed failure, not improper fertilizer.

06-29-2005, 12:41 AM
Lack of proper watering is the highest cause of Hydroseed failure, not improper fertilizer.
Its the highest cause of failure in conventional seeding, trees and bushes dieing etc. Do you have irrigation?

06-29-2005, 04:29 PM
I used Baylethon as suggested by the Lesco Rep.
I don't know what starter fert the Hydroseeder used.
I used Scotts starter fert from Home depot 3 weeks after the hydroseeding was layed down as suggested by the Hydroseeder, this was 1 month ago.
No soil test was done.
I though it was Pithium because of the severe Mycilea in the mornings and greasey black blades.
I was watering at night (bad I now know) and that combined with the humidity I think caused the fungus.
The fungus is now gone but the lawn is now kind of yellow and full of crabgrass.
No irragation, I water with several sprinklers and hoses now 20min twice a week if it doesn't rain.
I will get a soil test done asap.

06-29-2005, 06:29 PM
Several problems appear here:

1) beyleton doesn't control Pytium
2) What you described sounds more like a description of helminthosporium leaf spot.
3) helminthosporium also isn't controled by beyleton
What to do:
4) at Lesco, you can use Twosome, or Compass, they are both labeled.
5) spray for the crabgrass at the time of reseeding with Drive 75.
6) follow a preventative fungicide program, a normal fertilizer program for new seedings

I have to go flip the steaks....

06-29-2005, 06:55 PM
What did you apply as a fungicide?

Why do you think its Pythium?

Can you post a pic of the leaf blade? (close up and fine exposure)

How much did you water?

Lack of proper watering is the highest cause of Hydroseed failure, not improper fertilizer.

Lack of water is the single biggest reason for seeding failures whether it is hydroseed, sown or whatever, I will give you that one. It is a fact that water is the only neutrient that the seed does not contain that is neccesary for germination. Fertilizer on the other hand is not neccesary for proper seed germination and in fact the wrong type of fertilizer has been proven to cause seed kill with amounts as little as 5 lbs per acre. These problems are compounded with hydroseeding because the seed and fertilizer are mixed together in a slurry so we are basicly soaking the seed in a salt solution and then sealing the seed to the soil with mulch, locking the seed in direct contact with the fertilizer. Using high salt content fertilizers at heavy rates dooms most hydroseeding jobs before the grass has a chance. Using soil test recommendations for fertilizer in a hydroseedeer is an excessive fertilier rate. Soil test recommendations are meant for incorporation into the soil at depths of 6 to 8 inches. With a hydroseeder we are appling the fertilizer to the top layer of the soil only. Using a full soil test recommendation means we are sujecting the seed to 170-185 percent more fertilier than the seed can safely be subjected to.

Improper watering does cause a lot of seeding failures and not just hydroseeding but I stand by my previous statement that fertilizer or maybe I should say lack of understanding fertilizers contributes to most hydroseeding failures.

06-30-2005, 08:15 PM
Can I apply the drive and reseed at the same time?
My plan at the end of the summer was to cut the lawn pretty short, apply the drive, aerate the lawn then over seed.
Do I need to use any kind of top dressing?
Thanks for all your help

07-06-2005, 09:50 AM
Hey Sug- Where in NJ do you live? Just curious because I am shopping around for a home there. Presently, I am in LI and looking for a larger property with huge backyard. Any info would be great..THanks!