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View Full Version : My Brand New & Modified Aerator.


gl1200a
07-02-2005, 09:20 PM
I did quite a bit of research on an aerator before I made a purchase. I wanted a dependable unit with greasable zerks and also had a motorized lifting mechanism without spending upwards of $1900.00. I wanted to have a unit that would be cost effective in the first season. What I ended up with is a Turf Vent aerator that comes with a very solid heavy duty frame and zerks for the shaft and the wheel hubs aswell. I found the unit for about $225.00 off of list from a distributor (from Arizona) and paid $499.00 delivered. Then I used an actuator arm in 12 volts and fabricated a framework out of steel with the guidence from a very dedicated friend of mine since high school. With the help of some very knowledgeable folks here on Lawnsite.com I was able to figure out the wiring and switch system.

http://www.wikco.com/Turfvent.html -- Here is the original unit.

txlawnking
07-02-2005, 10:08 PM
That's mighty fine ingenuity there.. Let us know how It performs.

DLCS
07-04-2005, 03:25 PM
How about some close-up pictures.

stevesmowing
07-04-2005, 05:03 PM
looks nice. I have been looking at getting into aeration. I was looking at the gator rotor b/c you can get close where a tow behind can't but the price on yours looks more attractive. How does profits compare to aeration vs. mowing? Is it a good investment?

topsites
07-04-2005, 05:15 PM
Sorry but I don't feel that tow-units do near as good a job as full-size walk-behind aerators, like a Classen Ta-26. To me a tow-behind is the lazy way out, and you get what you put into it - No muscle, no real aeration. Walk-behind aerators pull better plugs, they all do.

DLCS
07-04-2005, 05:21 PM
Sorry but I don't feel that tow-units do near as good a job as full-size walk-behind aerators, like a Classen Ta-26. To me a tow-behind is the lazy way out, and you get what you put into it - No muscle, no real aeration. Walk-behind aerators pull better plugs, they all do.

....but are you going to walk large acreage lawns.

DLCS
07-04-2005, 05:25 PM
The Turfvent Aerators are well built for the price. But you have to put quite a bit of weight on them to pull nice plugs. I have the 48" model Turfvent and was just curious if your lift system works with added weight too.

iluvscag
07-04-2005, 07:18 PM
I like the L.T. Rich Aerators. :)

Green Pastures
07-05-2005, 12:22 AM
How bout some pictures where I can actually see what it is I'm looking at.

;)

gl1200a
07-05-2005, 07:41 PM
Hey Topsites...I'm 50 yrs old with a bad back and have worked a very hard and profitable life so if I want to sit down to mow and aerate I think I can handle that without being called lazy. And as DLCS added I do only large acreages and don't have time to do 28" at a pass all day long. I actually retired at the age of 42 and do this for some exercise and to keep myself (part time) busy. You should get to know more about a person before you do any name calling. Oh sorry... I just read you quotes on your avatar. Now I understand your disability.

Also for DLCS this is the same exact actuator arm used on the Gator Rator with 600 lbs. rated force and that lifts the entire front of a ZTR off the ground for weight bias. If that fails I can move up to the 1200 lbs. arm for $99.00. I weigh 260 and it lifts me up and down with no trouble so we'll hope for the best!

My only problem is that it is so....s-l-o-w. The arm can go anywhere between 12 to 36 volts and I wonder if the arm would move at a faster pace if the voltage was up'ed. Now just to find someone smart enough to give me an answer and to tell me where to find a voltage inverter for a fair price. I looked online briefly and wasn't able to find an interter so far.

Runner
07-06-2005, 12:28 AM
The Feldman turfvent is an awesome aerator for the money. Your modification is definitely a nice one. Great job. I have the 60", and if I put 5 75# sandbags on it, there isn't much it won't penetrate. As far as the statement that pull behinds don't work as well, I don't velieve this to be true at all. I've used both for nearly 20 years now, and KNOW the difference. Sure, wb's have their applications - tight spots, and hills, but if you are going to make real money at it, covering the ground and ease of operation are the way to go.

MOW ED
07-06-2005, 06:46 AM
Who said that you are supposed to kill yourself doing a job. I have a diesel tractor and a 3 point hitch mounted aerator that can do 6000 sq ft lawns or 60,000 sq ft lawns easily.
I paid dues by using the Lawnaires and can tell you that I will never do taht again.
There is no physical way possible to make more money using a small walkbehind aerator.

I like your modification, I love things like that. This industry is neat in that way. Do you have many jobs lined up? I will start advertising at the end of August for the fall season. Thanks for sharing, mayby time to get a Patent! payup

FERT-TEK
09-20-2005, 09:00 AM
Hey Topsites...I'm 50 yrs old with a bad back and have worked a very hard and profitable life so if I want to sit down to mow and aerate I think I can handle that without being called lazy. And as DLCS added I do only large acreages and don't have time to do 28" at a pass all day long. I actually retired at the age of 42 and do this for some exercise and to keep myself (part time) busy. You should get to know more about a person before you do any name calling. Oh sorry... I just read you quotes on your avatar. Now I understand your disability.

Also for DLCS this is the same exact actuator arm used on the Gator Rator with 600 lbs. rated force and that lifts the entire front of a ZTR off the ground for weight bias. If that fails I can move up to the 1200 lbs. arm for $99.00. I weigh 260 and it lifts me up and down with no trouble so we'll hope for the best!

My only problem is that it is so....s-l-o-w. The arm can go anywhere between 12 to 36 volts and I wonder if the arm would move at a faster pace if the voltage was up'ed. Now just to find someone smart enough to give me an answer and to tell me where to find a voltage inverter for a fair price. I looked online briefly and wasn't able to find an interter so far.
Stopped by the maker of the ram actuator for the Gator-rator they are called Bear Linear out of Belvedere IL. He said the ram can be fitted with different gears that control how quickly it works. I believe the Gator-rator originally had a 5 to 1 gear in it and he now recommends a 10 to 1 or visa versa cant remember. The recommended gear does make it operate more slowly although he said that it will also be more dependable.The mechanical problem I was having with mine had somthing to do with the electric brake that allows the ram to hold its position. He described it like Chinese handcuffs. You know the ones that can be put on your fingers. The harder you pull on it the tighter it gets.

topsites
09-20-2005, 10:05 AM
The AXLE on which the tines revolve on a walk-behind is on the power-band, meaning the axle PULLS so the tines literally DIG in as it pulls and propels the machine. That, I think, is what makes the biggest difference is the tines digging rather than it just rolling. Also to some extent I think you can cover the corners and trick spots better because of maneuverability.

MarcSmith
09-20-2005, 11:16 AM
By far the best type of coreing areator is the kind that the corer travels up and down rather than in a circle. you get a true plug and not a wallered out hole in the ground. That being said. we have a 8' tow behind which I don't need any weight on to get a 2" plug. and I have an old ryan aerator that has the corers traveling up and down. Its a lot to handle, but it does a good job. I am considered replacing it for a drum style aerator in the furture.


On your tow behind aerator to only have 4 tines perwheel I think you'll see that the tine when it it goes into the soil at such a steep angle you are running the risk of bending them....Either way. You go with what works....

gorknoids
09-20-2005, 07:45 PM
Make a box just smaller than the top of the aerator, fill it with a couple bags of Sackrete, and put two steel drawer-pulls into it using bolts sunk in the wet concrete for lifting handles. For rough terrain, wrap a bungee around it to keep it in place.

gl1200a
09-20-2005, 10:47 PM
I went to Walmart and got four blue 5 - gallon water jugs from the camping department. Filled with water gives me 166.6 pounds of weight in the tray. They fit perfectly, bungee down and all I have to store are four empty, light weight containers.

aclassic
09-20-2005, 10:51 PM
where did you get that electronic actuator?

gl1200a
09-20-2005, 11:25 PM
http://search.stores.ebay.com/search/search.dll?query=actuator&srchdesc=y&sid=11032622&store=Joe%27s+Satellite+Shop&colorid=5&fp=0&st=2&fsoo=1&fsop=3&submit=Search

Soupy
09-20-2005, 11:50 PM
Sorry but I don't feel that tow-units do near as good a job as full-size walk-behind aerators, like a Classen Ta-26. To me a tow-behind is the lazy way out, and you get what you put into it - No muscle, no real aeration. Walk-behind aerators pull better plugs, they all do.

Topsites, Have you used a tow behind? I have both and actually have the same aerator pictured. The lawns that get the tow behind benefit more, because the tow behind penetrates a little deeper then the Ryan I have, plus we can make 2-3 passes in no time so the lawns are getting more cores pulled versus your beloved walk-behinds.

Most tow behinds use the same tines as walk behinds. This doesn't include the home owner crap you buy at the box stores.

walker-talker
09-21-2005, 03:42 AM
Good luck with that Feldman Turfvent. I bought the smaller one at an auction from a dealership that went out of business. It's the smaller 36" and it never did pull a plug. Just jabbed holes in the ground. When time for me to get another one I think I will get either a Classen or Lesco (made by Classen). I like the idea of the actuator.....good job! I will have to refer back to this post when needed. I would too like to see some closeups.

Matt

aclassic
09-29-2005, 10:34 PM
i have a 36" bluebird tow unit and i am tired of cranking on it to get it up and down. i'd like to do one of those actuator arms, but i'm not sure how it'd work,
if anyone knows a way to switch from the crank to an actuator on this model i'd apreciate it.

gl1200a
09-30-2005, 10:21 PM
Well, it's the same exact mechanism. It may be as simple as taking of the crank handle and installing the motor off of the actuator's threaded rod and on to your threaded rod. I can't guanuntee it, but it may be the same exact setup or, at least, close enough to try it. Then you just need a two way rocker switch that spring loads to center and reverses the polarity on the opposite throw.

gl1200a
09-30-2005, 10:23 PM
I can't use my brand new one anymore as it didn't work on my fabrication. I'll sell it to you for cost if you want to try it. Send me a private message if you're interested.

Runner
10-01-2005, 11:09 PM
I'm sorry, but looking at this post again, I STIL think that's an awesome setup. What would be the cost difference between an actuator setup like this, and a power hitch jack for a trailer be?

gl1200a
10-02-2005, 10:53 AM
The power jacks for trailers run around $200.00 I believe. The actuators are about $70.00 on up.

turfcobob
10-20-2005, 06:25 PM
How good are the cores? If ya ain't pulling cores then you are just poking holes that will close right up.

gl1200a
10-20-2005, 08:18 PM
5/8" X 1.5 inches tines. The weight used to adjust core depth is corellated to the compaction of the ground. I've run as high as 166 pounds with our summer drought and pull good cores. The Turfvent has more than lived up to it's name. 48" width with 4 core tines per cluster X 12 cluster. Grease zerks in every cluster. $499.00 delivered from Phoenix to Iowa. I have no complaints.

DLCS
10-20-2005, 08:47 PM
How good are the cores? If ya ain't pulling cores then you are just poking holes that will close right up.

Really??:rolleyes:

I didn't read anywhere in this post that said the Turfvent wasn't doing the job.

I have a Feldmen Turfvent also and never had a problem pulling decent plugs. Usually I average about 2" cores.

Soupy
10-21-2005, 07:29 PM
Here is a picture of some cores I pulled a few years ago when I first bought this aerator. I don't remember the ground conditions, or how much weight I used at that time. This year I used 2 75lb paver's for weight and pulled some really nice cores. The aerator will fit 3 of these paver's, but I did not need the 3rd because the ground was soft.

greasy_gun
04-14-2006, 10:50 PM
Sorry but I don't feel that tow-units do near as good a job as full-size walk-behind aerators, like a Classen Ta-26. To me a tow-behind is the lazy way out, and you get what you put into it - No muscle, no real aeration. Walk-behind aerators pull better plugs, they all do.

what a dummy...
keep tryin to break yer back,yer wallett will follow :)

topsites
04-14-2006, 11:53 PM
....but are you going to walk large acreage lawns.

sorry, it really is a nice unit, dunno what got into me that day.

Most I'll do is maybe 1.5 and a real big if on a 2 acre lot, it takes me 2 full hours to do one full acre so a definite plus on those larger lots, yes. But an acre with a walk-behind isn't that bad, you just need the time. I still have the energy to spread afterwards, did my own acre lot in an afternoon (3-4 hours), it's starting to turn out now that we got some rain.

But you're right, for the larger lots, yeah...

MarcSmith
04-15-2006, 08:12 AM
i wish I could get rid of my tow behind 92" ryan for a 3pt hitch mounted one...Arg....

turfcobob
04-17-2006, 11:04 AM
Do you guys ever put a pencil to your time? By the time you figure what you have in an aerator you have been playing with you could buy a professional designed and manufactured aerator designed to do what you want.

Core Depth?? How many cores per sq. foot..This is how you measure quality of aeration..At least 2.5 inches deep and 9 to 12 holes per sq. ft.

MarcSmith...The "wallered hole" you see when a rolling aerator makes a hole is Good not bad. The tine is making an "X" movement under the soil and tearing the plant roots while it is pulling a core and opening the soild. It is also fracturing the soil to improve water, nutrient and air movement. The vertical core type of plugging was developed for golf courses and does not do as much good on a home lawn as a rolling aerator.

Do you guys that build your own aerators build your own mowers and pickups too? Why not you have all this time and money? OR do you think that the engineers that design and build them may know what they are doing?
Schools and engineers have spent hundreds of hours and years of study to develop the aerators we have today and they know what they are doing. But aerators like other products are what you pay for. Want a cheap one with a so so quality and job...buy one. Quality costs but it also pays back in the long run.

Any for some of you walk behind aerators have come a long way baby. They are now easy to operate, last a long time and make lots of money.

Turfcobob

MarcSmith
04-17-2006, 11:43 AM
bob

I said i wanted to get rid of 8'foot tow behind. I never knocked a rolling areator. I'd buy one that Turfco direct sells if I could convince my boss that I really don't need an 8' tow behind since i don't work on the fields any more....I do have an older ryan Up/down style aerator as well, but it beats the sht out of you when you use it...Now if could work a package deal on on the tm62 and a turn 26 with a chariot...Then we'd be talking.

I did have achance to demo n up/down core areator for my tractor...but I could not justify that kind of $$$$ did a great job, but too much $$ for my 14 acres of grass

Grass Man
04-17-2006, 12:32 PM
I did quite a bit of research on an aerator before I made a purchase. I wanted a dependable unit with greasable zerks and also had a motorized lifting mechanism without spending upwards of $1900.00. I wanted to have a unit that would be cost effective in the first season. What I ended up with is a Turf Vent aerator that comes with a very solid heavy duty frame and zerks for the shaft and the wheel hubs aswell. I found the unit for about $225.00 off of list from a distributor (from Arizona) and paid $499.00 delivered. Then I used an actuator arm in 12 volts and fabricated a framework out of steel with the guidence from a very dedicated friend of mine since high school. With the help of some very knowledgeable folks here on Lawnsite.com I was able to figure out the wiring and switch system.

http://www.wikco.com/Turfvent.html -- Here is the original unit.

.... Would like to see pics of both the underside of YOUR unit and would also like to see the location of those zerks you speak of :).

Thanks in advance

.

tobylou8
03-26-2009, 12:00 PM
I know this is an old thread but i hope this helps/saves someone from a lot of headaches and frustration, not to mention downtime in the field. After 18 months of use the unit needed major modifications to remain usable. The major issue was the tine axle falling out of the frame when tranporting and turning (axle is/was not bent either). Since this unit is put together with bolts and the tranport wheel legs are very long,this magnified this weakness (axle frame would bow out from the tray frame). At first I thought what am I doing wrong? This was at least a 30 minute repair, although I got much faster with MUCH practice. Finally called the manufacturer and was told "Yea, that happens sometimes..." INCREDIBLE!! He suggested I lower the weight ( I told him I had already done that without success ). He said "Hmm, don't know what to tell ya... good luck" *&%#@! Had to keep tools on my mower when using the unit. The transport wheels were a design afterthought. The shoulder bolts that keep the wheels up cannot support 200 pounds long ( keep an ample supply or your loading up one weight at a time ). The transport leg "axles" wallowed out quickly causing a severe camber issue which led to the tine axle falling out when tranporting at all ( oh yea, the tire would also roll of the rim,yee ha!!). Finally had to remove the legs altogether because they would fall off while aerating ( tried locknuts but then the wheels would engage the ground and go into the transport position and then I'm looking for my axle and spacers on a soccer field ). Having said all this, the aluminim weight tray insert is a nice touch. Unless you can weld, know a good fabricator, or only aerate occasionally (and the ground is saturated), stay away from this unit! Oh, did I mention the drawbar...?

kjslawn
03-26-2009, 12:38 PM
Sorry but I don't feel that tow-units do near as good a job as full-size walk-behind aerators, like a Classen Ta-26. To me a tow-behind is the lazy way out, and you get what you put into it - No muscle, no real aeration. Walk-behind aerators pull better plugs, they all do.

LAZEY way out! You kill me sometimes. I can Double or triple pass my yards and make double the money and not get tired at all. I will make on avg $100 an hour with my new tow behind. I will never go back to a walker unit.

tobylou8
03-26-2009, 12:45 PM
LAZEY way out! You kill me sometimes. I can Double or triple pass my yards and make double the money and not get tired at all. I will make on avg $100 an hour with my new tow behind. I will never go back to a walker unit.

What unit you using?

kjslawn
03-26-2009, 08:35 PM
60 inch wilko or wiko.com

kjslawn
03-26-2009, 08:36 PM
http://www.wikco.com/AeratorWK.html I put a 50lb bag of seed in each bin

tobylou8
03-26-2009, 10:50 PM
http://www.wikco.com/AeratorWK.html I put a 50lb bag of seed in each bin

Nice looking aerator.

tobylou8
03-26-2009, 10:52 PM
I know this is an old thread but i hope this helps/saves someone from a lot of headaches and frustration, not to mention downtime in the field. After 18 months of use the unit needed major modifications to remain usable. The major issue was the tine axle falling out of the frame when tranporting and turning (axle is/was not bent either). Since this unit is put together with bolts and the tranport wheel legs are very long,this magnified this weakness (axle frame would bow out from the tray frame). At first I thought what am I doing wrong? This was at least a 30 minute repair, although I got much faster with MUCH practice. Finally called the manufacturer and was told "Yea, that happens sometimes..." INCREDIBLE!! He suggested I lower the weight ( I told him I had already done that without success ). He said "Hmm, don't know what to tell ya... good luck" *&%#@! Had to keep tools on my mower when using the unit. The transport wheels were a design afterthought. The shoulder bolts that keep the wheels up cannot support 200 pounds long ( keep an ample supply or your loading up one weight at a time ). The transport leg "axles" wallowed out quickly causing a severe camber issue which led to the tine axle falling out when tranporting at all ( oh yea, the tire would also roll of the rim,yee ha!!). Finally had to remove the legs altogether because they would fall off while aerating ( tried locknuts but then the wheels would engage the ground and go into the transport position and then I'm looking for my axle and spacers on a soccer field ). Having said all this, the aluminim weight tray insert is a nice touch. Unless you can weld, know a good fabricator, or only aerate occasionally (and the ground is saturated), stay away from this unit! Oh, did I mention the drawbar...?

should have mentioned my "aerator" is the turf vent series 2 48" by feldman.

grass-smoker
03-27-2009, 12:27 AM
Do you guys ever put a pencil to your time? By the time you figure what you have in an aerator you have been playing with you could buy a professional designed and manufactured aerator designed to do what you want.

Core Depth?? How many cores per sq. foot..This is how you measure quality of aeration..At least 2.5 inches deep and 9 to 12 holes per sq. ft.

MarcSmith...The "wallered hole" you see when a rolling aerator makes a hole is Good not bad. The tine is making an "X" movement under the soil and tearing the plant roots while it is pulling a core and opening the soild. It is also fracturing the soil to improve water, nutrient and air movement. The vertical core type of plugging was developed for golf courses and does not do as much good on a home lawn as a rolling aerator.

Do you guys that build your own aerators build your own mowers and pickups too? Why not you have all this time and money? OR do you think that the engineers that design and build them may know what they are doing?
Schools and engineers have spent hundreds of hours and years of study to develop the aerators we have today and they know what they are doing. But aerators like other products are what you pay for. Want a cheap one with a so so quality and job...buy one. Quality costs but it also pays back in the long run.

Any for some of you walk behind aerators have come a long way baby. They are now easy to operate, last a long time and make lots of money.

Turfcobob


Even though I think Bobs arrogance and constant sarcastic criticism towards all the members here actually gives a negative face to the company Turfco, I do agree with him. By the time you buy a "knock off" type unit and affix a bunch of your own parts to it, you'll have more time and money into it than if you just bought quality. Besides, no matter what you do to it, an aerator is only as good as the tines it's sitting on.

I will be buying both, a (lawn solutions) stander aerator for small areas and tight corners and one for the front of my machine to use on more open properties.

Actually and honestly, I would feel stupid pulling a unit that looked like it came from Wal-Mart behind me and then trying to charge a pro's rate for that aeration service just because it was on an expensive mower.

tobylou8
03-27-2009, 12:37 AM
Even though I think Bobs arrogance and constant sarcastic criticism towards all the members here actually gives a negative face to the company Turfco, I do agree with him. By the time you buy a "knock off" type unit and affix a bunch of your own parts to it, you'll have more time and money into it than if you just bought quality. Besides, no matter what you do to it, an aerator is only as good as the tines it's sitting on.

I will be buying both, a (lawn solutions) stander aerator for small areas and tight corners and one for the front of my machine to use on more open properties.

Actually and honestly, I would feel stupid pulling a unit that looked like it came from Wal-Mart behind me and then trying to charge a pro's rate for that aeration service just because it was on an expensive mower.

I have to reluctantly agree with Bob. The money I lost on downtime alone would have covered the difference between this p.o.c. and a decent aerator.You do get what you pay for.:cry:

1.2.3. green
03-29-2009, 08:30 PM
60 inch wilko or wiko.com

i have a pull behind which i modified and i can aerate an 80,000 ft lawn in an hour while drinking a cup of coffee

hamsey
03-30-2009, 10:59 AM
tobylou8,

Do you think there would be any problems with the 3-pt model? I was about to order one until I found this thread. Thanks!

norm

tobylou8
03-30-2009, 11:13 AM
tobylou8,

Do you think there would be any problems with the 3-pt model? I was about to order one until I found this thread. Thanks!

norm

I would look very closely at the tine axle supports and where they connect to the frame of the weight tray, if it has one. Not really familiar with the 3 point model though. If it is bolted to the frame as was mine, you will need some extra support to keep it from bowing out even on moderate turns. If you are buying from a dealer you can see up close for yourself. If you are buying direct, do not expect much in the way of customer support. I don't want to scare you off because mine does aerate well and the 3 pt. models may be fine. But I would definetly do comparisons of other models. I have heard that Pro-Aire is a good aerator. Good hunting and let me know how it turns out.

hamsey
03-30-2009, 11:39 AM
tobylou8,

Thanks for getting back so soon. I have looked into the pro-aire. Will let you know how I make out.

Norm

tobylou8
03-30-2009, 01:56 PM
tobylou8,

Thanks for getting back so soon. I have looked into the pro-aire. Will let you know how I make out.

Norm

Not a problem. Ironically I was able to respond quickly because I'm at the office fixing my aerator!:laugh::laugh::laugh:

tobylou8
04-02-2009, 11:46 PM
tobylou8,

Thanks for getting back so soon. I have looked into the pro-aire. Will let you know how I make out.

Norm

Just an update, drawbar snapped in half today!:angry:

hamsey
05-29-2009, 03:32 PM
Not good news! Any luck with Feldmann?

Still have not found one yet. Just can't make a decision. Might go for a Gearmore 48"

Norm

Soupy
05-29-2009, 11:01 PM
As mentioned the turf-vent is a great beginner aerator if youíre on a budget. The wheels are kind of weak. Need to replace bolts often (cheap but annoying). The tow bar is the next weakest link. This aerator pays for itself fast and will make you a lot of money in return. Awesome first time aerator if on a budget (aren't we all). Mine is on its last leg and has been retired but if needed has quit a few more thousand dollars worth of work in it.

With that said... About 2 years ago I decided it was time to upgrade so I went with the pro-air. It is the cats meow!!!! This thing will impress your customers. Makes all the previous jobs they had by companies using walk behinds look like crap. The pro-air is built strong and weighs enough you do not need to add weight. I looked real close at lesco's tow unit and came real close to buying it. I am so glad I did not. I only demoed the lesco unit, but I feel the pro-air beats it in many ways. Not that the lesco isnít a good unit, but the pro-air pulls a slightly better core. Is built much better (a little bigger which could be a draw back for trailer space). Has the one sided lift system just to name a few. Really a tow behind only has three main areas to look at. The tines, the build, and the lift system.

I own a Ryan lawnair walk behind and itís a good piece of equipment for tight spots but is no match to the pro-air. It holds up to the cheaper turf-vent as for as cores go but as I mentioned the turf-vent wins in production. With any decent tow behind you can double (even triple) pass in a 1/4 time it takes to walk (average 8-10K lawns). This means you and the customer benefits. You win with production (with less investment no less) and the customer gets an extra pass or two. The pro-air kills the turf-vent in all areas. Not even fair to compare them. With that said everyone should have a walk behind as part of their operation, but if you can only get one to start with. I vote for the tow behind!