View Full Version : Whats the Best ?

Bobcat s250 NY
08-03-2005, 09:15 PM
Whats up guys.
I am going to try facing a concrete stoop at my house with some pavers and fullnose. What is the best mortar to set it in? Type I , II , S As far as the mix should it be fairly dry or move wet? Also how much sand (round shovels ) to a full bag of mortar :help:
Thank you in advance for the help... :blob3:

Also what do you guys think about the wacker 1035 cut off saw. My stihl 400 is on its last leg.. I was at a dealer today that was selling the wacker for 699 with a diamond blade. Saw seems smaller and has almost a full horsepower more than the stihl. Any one use it ?

08-04-2005, 07:17 AM
Type "N" ...............

08-04-2005, 05:12 PM
If you are facing a stoop, I wouldn't use mortar at all! Glue your bullnose to the edge (be sure to leave enough overhang for when you face the verticals of the stoop) Use a high quality construction adhesive and run your glue so alow water to escape. dry lay your body and cut as necessary. Sweep with sand and move on to facing the verticals of the stoop. Use the same adhesive for that as well. You may have to build a rig to hold the facing material on. (I think mbella has some nice pics of a support system he built) We don't use mortar because it does not allow water to drain through.


08-04-2005, 05:37 PM
type S...type I and II is just pure portland cement, the type is the shade...one is darker than the other. type N is only about 750psi where type S is about double or more....

Bobcat s250 NY
08-04-2005, 11:10 PM
Is glue ok for my climate? Someone said that they had problems with the glue during freeze cycles here in NY? I see your from PA, so your just as cold. Have you had any problems. The reason i was thinking mortar was to be able to get everything perfect as far as level and pitch due to imperfections in the original stoop.

08-05-2005, 05:40 PM
A quality construction adhesive will be fine in your zone. Most will bridge up to 3/8" so you can make adjustments to account for minor imperfections in your existing surface grade.

08-05-2005, 05:50 PM
water will seep between the stoop and mortar and separate them during freeze/thaw.


Bobcat s250 NY
08-05-2005, 09:51 PM
So what should i do if the imperfections in some spots will need more than 3/8 of and inch adjustment? As far as using glue on the bullnose should the bottom and sides of each get glued?

08-06-2005, 07:16 PM
We usually run a bead down the center of the bullnose and that's it. That allows the water to drain around the bead and prevent heaving.

08-07-2005, 11:13 PM
This is my first estimate for laying pavers. The total squar footage is about 500 sq' I am not sure how many pavers I will need and how to price per paver. I am not sure how long it will take me. I think I am going to be using the brick shaped pavers. One other thing! There is a 6" slop on one side where the stone is going out to. I am not sure on how or what to use to build that up so it will be level. PLEASE can someone help!!!!!!!!

08-08-2005, 07:03 AM
You think you might be using the "brick shaped" pavers? In order to do the estimate, you need to know which pavers you are going to use. If you figure out which pavers you are going to use, you will be able to figure out how many you need.

08-11-2005, 08:57 AM
We just glued a coping of larger pavers around a pool with a larger paver and I believe it will be fine. Mortar has its own problems and like what was said, is permeable to moisture causing cracks and loosening.
As far as the saw, Wacker and several other brands (Makita for one) are all manufactured by one company. They are a disposable saw in my opinion! I still like Stihls and believe Partner makes the best of the bunch. Just me!