PDA

View Full Version : Help with pavers/block wall.....


Mike's Yard Services
08-16-2005, 01:22 AM
Am helping neighbor with wall project and she decided she wants to put pavers in front of wall. Luckily a pattern of two lenghtwise and another across....will make up the gap between the drive and wall face. My dilemma, which would you put in first....pavers or wall? I think the pavers, I am thinking a 1x4 as a backer for the paver area, gravel then sand?.leveled and then place pavers and then topped with "paverset" I think that is the really fine sand with a bit of portland, wet afterwards and then permanent. The 1x4 would be set low in the back of the pavers so it would be hidden when time to do the base etc for wall. Have put in a few walls, but never at same time as pavers......check pics and please give advice. The pavers will be in the offset area to the right of the area where the driveway used to go to steps....we are relocating the steps about 8 ft to right.....Any help or suggestions....much appreciated. Thanks, Mike

YardPro
08-16-2005, 08:29 AM
use a real edge restraint like snap edge, etc.......

also your excavation should be at least 9"
6" base, 1" sand and pavers....

Mike's Yard Services
08-16-2005, 10:02 AM
Should it be pavers first, that is my first thought.....so it could be the forward edge ofg the wall when it goes up.......also, excavation is approx 7 in........thought 4 for base and then sand. This is due to be a filler between the drive and wall, not necessarily a "load bearing area"........thanks, Mike

Snap edge.where would I get it?

UNISCAPER
08-16-2005, 10:21 AM
Use the pavers to gauge where the toe of the wall is going and set the wall first. When you dig the wall trench, it will be too easy to screw up the pavers. You won't need edging if the pavers go against the wall. They will lock between the driveway and the wall. just make sure you keep gauging the distance as you run the bottom course by using the pavers. That way you will minimize cutting.

Mike's Yard Services
08-16-2005, 10:32 AM
The wall first......ok......as you can see inthe pics the excavation of the area is already cleared(customers son and soninlaw, this past weekend, there fore no trench left to dig it is all approx8-9in below edge of drive.)........should I just fill the base material(gravel) in over the entire area and start setting the base row of block? Thought of just running a twineline for the face and height.but in reality, so long as the wall is level and straight, the pavers in front should be fine. Problem is that the wall is expected to sit approx 4 " below the line of the pavers' top?

And if I set the base material over the entire area now, then add approx 1 in of sand for leveling of the pavers, in front of the wall, this should be just about right...........should the wall be completed before.or just say one or two rows?

The overall height of wallis only approx 32" above grade.

Thanks for all the info, Mike

UNISCAPER
08-16-2005, 10:38 AM
You really should have one full embedment course on the wall so if you went down a foot for the wall trnech, use 6" of 1" minus to fines for base, level your first course, then pack base between the wall and the drive you can finish the wall after the pavers if you want. Basically, the wall is going to lock the pavers. If you were'nt in a freeze zone you might be able to get away with setting the wall on top of the same gravel as the pavers, but you really neeed that embedment course.

Mike's Yard Services
08-16-2005, 10:50 AM
Like I said, first time have had this situation regarding pavers at same time as a as a wall going in.................embedment course?....could you explain

I would definitely need to add more gravel/base into the paver area obviously...........after setting the first row of the wall, how to seperate or prevent freeze issues?

BTW.the customer added the steps concept late..........but bought actual step blockswill be installing approx 15 ft from front of house to relocate the steps..........up approx 5 ft and an additional wall will eventually go in on the upper level approx 5 ft back from the wall going in hopefully this week, should just be from steps to house.nothing towards streetside.............uggggggg neighbors
Mike

greywynd
08-16-2005, 10:57 AM
The 'embedment' course is the first row, and should be completely 'embedded' below the surface, (otherwise call it buried). You won't even see this row. (Sometimes on a large project you can get some seconds or off color blocks from your dealer and save a few $$.) This row however is critical, it acts like an anchor to the blocks above to keep them from moving/shifting about.

Mike's Yard Services
08-16-2005, 11:37 AM
According to dealer info, base plus half block depth, faced against the driveway would work, however perhaps a whole block buried due to pavers area?
Mike

Mike's Yard Services
08-18-2005, 02:17 PM
tyvm..I need all I can get

UNISCAPER
08-18-2005, 09:23 PM
The NCMA pecs, along with every architectural SRW drawing I have ever bid on shows that for every 8" of wall height, you need to bury (embed) 1" of foundation, with a minimum of one full block under ground. I don't want to come off half cocked, by any means, but your dealer should find the next date for NCMA training and educate himself so he can pass proper information along to those who buy what he sells.

We build walls as small as 1 1/2' tall and well over 40', and the foundation course is critical for global stability. now, since you are going to set the wall, and place pavers next to it, the wall and concrete driveway will lock the footing so global stability won't be an issue. You will have the freeze/thaw/ heave situations to consider and tat is why you need one full block under ground.

Now, for draining the wall.....Back fill with a one foot layer of 3/4" gravel wrapped in geo extile fabric, and a 4" SDR-35 perforated pipe at the bottom ofthe 3/4". If you have an underground drain, tie to that, other wise, set the pipe at the point where the wall will be even with outside grade. Core drill a 4 1/2" hole every 50' and cap insert an unscrewable drain grate even with the wall face. That will take care of hydrostatic pressure.



I hope thius helps.