How-to: Striping Kit for WB

[topsites]

This isn't the first time someone has done this, but I decided to put this up with pictures, case someone wants one of these.

There are two ways of doing this:
1. You can order the professional kit for 300 dollars at http://www.bigleaguelawns.com/ and be done with it.
I did this for my '05 proline because of how nice it all looks.
To see what a striping kit does AND what it looks like, follow the above link.

But for my '98 proline it made little sense to order some brand-new fancy-looking, expensive thing that would be the rough equivalent of putting NEW shiny rims on an old, delapidated car. I was in the end surprised by how well it all looks and will not hesitate to use this method in the future as it only costs 70 - 75 dollars.

Tools needed:
A grinding tool with a grinding or cut-off wheel.
Some wrenches, possibly a vise grip.
A tube of loc-tite, get at auto-parts store, get the red tube.

Supplies (all from Home Depot):
1 x 5/16" screw rod. dunno if that's the right term but it's a threaded rod.
1 x 3/8" square sleeve - not 100% sure on size but basically make SURE the rod fits inside the sleeve.
Couple of 5/16" nuts and lock-washers.
9 pieces of galvanized chain 2-feet long. Forgot the size but it's $2.99 / foot and this is where all your money goes. I bought 8 x 2.5 feet but you really could use 9 and you only need 2 feet sections, I had to cut 6 inches off each one after I got it all home.

Time required:
Truthfully, it shouldn't take more than 2 hours including the trip to Home Depot BUT this was my first time and it took about 4-6 hours (you'll see in the pics it got dark on me lol).

Steps:
1) Lay out everything as follows:
(here you can see the rod + square sleeve you need to buy @ home depot)
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/DCFN0002.JPG
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2) Lay sleeve lengthwise across so as to see how much you need to cut off.
I did this by eye, doesn't have to be perfect but close is a must.
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/DCFN0003.JPG
.................................
3) Cut the sleeve, THEN ensure it fits underneath snug AND get the rod and cut it a few inches LONGER so they fit inside each other thusly:
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/DCFN0008.JPG
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4) Take the first chain and slide one end over the sleeve, then the other end so it doubles up. Do that for all 9 lengths of chain:
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/DCFN0005.JPG
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5) Thread a lock-washer and nut onto one end of the rod, then insert the other end into the hole provided near the wheel on the Wb AND deftly get the sleeve with the chains on there as well:
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/DCFN0007.JPG
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6) Hold it all up in there as you slide the rod THROUGH the hole on the other side, and thread the other lock-washer and nut onto the screw:
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/DCFN0009.JPG
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7) Apply a little loc-tite to the screw where the nut is about to tighten onto, then tighten both sides:
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/DCFN0010.JPG
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And here's the final product:
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/DCFN0011.JPG
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Other notes: Remove the velke next time so it's not as much of a pita.

[mcwlandscaping]

When you get them, take some pics of the lawn that got striped with it. Looks EXTREMELY easy to make. I would concider it, thank you for posting this^!

[topsites]

I took the wb out today to do a couple yards, the first one didn't turn out due to class-B grass (i.e.: weeds) but the second one did and I really like this kit vs. the Chekmate $300.00 striper because:
a) Once on the mower, you can forget it's even there. Unlike the professional kit, the chains are in no danger of catching on obstacles such as when turning.
b) Due to its light weight, the chain kit doesn't slow the wb down. With the pro model even on my brand-new wb, it felt like I was pulling the extra weight, the wb wasn't much slower but I could feel it and there was NO ignoring the kit for sure. In addition, with the chain kit I could lift the deck off the ground (pop a wheelie), backup, and do basically whatever I could do without it being there without any further ado.
c) With the pro kit, if I even thought it was a waste to use it, I'd take it off only to have to remount it later. With the chain kit, once on always on because it really doesn't matter as it has NO effect even if it doesn't work then just cut like normal because the kit doesn't get in the way the whole time AND it doesn't affect the cut in a bad way regardless (neither does the pro kit BUT the pro kit DOES get in your way).

Here are the pics of the 2nd lawn, a tricky little wooded area did account for some inaccuracy but other than that the results were truly magnificent:
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/98prolinestripes/DCFN0001.JPG
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/98prolinestripes/DCFN0002.JPG
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/98prolinestripes/DCFN0003.JPG
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/98prolinestripes/DCFN0004.JPG
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/98prolinestripes/DCFN0005.JPG
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/98prolinestripes/DCFN0006.JPG
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/98prolinestripes/DCFN0007.JPG
http://atopqualitysite.com/lawnpics/98prolinestripes/DCFN0008.JPG

p.s.: I picked up the 9th length of 2-foot chain today and will install it later.

[topsites]

Oh btw, it's 5/16" 30-gauge (or 30-something) galvanized chain.

Far as noise, it does make a little 'clink' you can hear every once in a bit but it's not something that would rattle the neighbors ears and I felt comfortable that I wouldn't get anyone looking my way with a weird look in their eyes, you really can't hardly hear anything at all most of the time it is very quiet and I hardly knew it was on there.

Other notes: The how-to pics have a couple minor discrepancies as my first priority was doing the install THEN take pics. Specifically, the threaded bolt actually sticks out 3-4 inches each side of the sleeve but in the pic where it shows it inside the sleeve it only sticks out an inch or two - That was a result of using the OTHER part of the threaded bolt AFTER I cut it, a mistake I realized right before I installed it. Likely I could've used the shorter piece but I wanted to make sure I had enough thread on either side for the washer + nut...
The ONLY tricky part is sliding the threaded bolt past the rear wheel as the assembly goes in the FORWARD-most hole on the frame, unfortunately it will not go through the rear two holes because it's too close to the frame and moving belts and pulleys. Still, a trick well worth 4-6 hours of my time considering I saved just over 200 dollars.

[TriCountyLawn]

Heres my homemade striping kit for my 48" Hustler WB. As for the "how to" portion of it, Its pretty self explaining. However there was a good deal of welding going on.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/Playin_Dead/hustler-2.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/Playin_Dead/hustler-1.jpg

[mcwlandscaping]

looks like i have another weekend project, thanks for the idea. Topsites, thanks for the after pics, that really sealed my decision (sp)!

[mcwlandscaping]

So all it is, is a bar going accross the back of the mower that you guys hung chain off of right? I want to get it right the first time not the second or third!! Also, topsites in pic 3,5, and 6 of the results, the stripes line up perfectly from one side of the drive to the other. Do you go accross the driveway to the other side to line up the stripes? Thanks!

[topsites]

So all it is, is a bar going accross the back of the mower that you guys hung chain off of right? I want to get it right the first time not the second or third!! Also, topsites in pic 3,5, and 6 of the results, the stripes line up perfectly from one side of the drive to the other. Do you go accross the driveway to the other side to line up the stripes? Thanks!

You may wish to print the directions or pictures before you go to Home Depot lol, because depending on what you decide to make then you will need different materials.
For the one I made, you will need a threaded rod AND a square sleeve, which is down the nuts + bolts aisle down by Hardware, plus 2 each nuts + LOCK washers and of course, the chain. This is very important, it is NOT just a bar it is a rod + sleeve - If you use just a bar the thing about it is might bend under the weight or with time and when riding over bumps - In the case of the Hustler you will see the bar used is a 90-degree angle: Again, so it does not bend!
Now in the pic of the Hustler that is very nice, I was going to buy the SAME shiny chain but the *&%^'er at Home Depot who cut the pieces said it would rust because I guess he works commission and the shiny stuff is 50 cents less per foot but yes it may rust a little over time but whatever. By the way, you can cut your own chain with the device but I didn't know how to use it OR whether I would get in trouble, heh.

Far as how to stripe:
YES it is recommended to drive from one end of a driveway right across so as to keep the lines straight... I even drove through those mulched beds (they're actually full of pine needles) while lifting the front deck into the air but you need to be careful with a velke because the velke can drag into the dirt when you do that (notice in the last pic there is a mound of dirt hehe). Once you get a few lines going then it's not so bad, I didn't ride ALL the way from one end to the other the entire time, sometimes I would do a small section between the trees just using the existing lines as a guide BUT you need something to start with, so...
It is best to stripe either in the morning or afternoon when the sun is past dead-center top of your head BUT before it sinks. The way to do it fail-safe (and the way I did it) is to head directly AWAY from and directly TOWARD the sun - This is very important, the stripes are an effect caused by the light from the sun so direction is crucial.
Also it may be a good idea to make a pass all around the perimeter and cut out a path on the outside for you to turn around in where grass doesn't get left standing.

Last but not least, so you can see what the pro kit looks like, here's that pic:
http://www.websitetoolbox.com/tool/view/mb/file?username=bigleaguelawns&id=57421

And it really is very nice, I do not regret buying the pro kit because on my brand-new wb it really makes an impression.

p.s.: the bigger, flatter yards are evidently the easier ones while hilly / small yards are a bit of a pita for striping.

[mcwlandscaping]

Thanks Topsites, i can't wait to do this on my mower. I am still a little confused as to the whole bar thing but, my dad and i will figure it out, Thanks again,
Michael

[TWUllc]

Nice set of directions. Topsites, looks like your mower has been workin pretty hard. Little dirty eh? Thanks again. :waving:

[mcwlandscaping]

TriCountryLawn, could you either put in some more pics of your setup or explain in detail on how you did your chain striper. Thanks!

[daveintoledo]

sorry but all i can see in the pics is the horrible looking sidewalks that look like they have never been edged???????? :blush:

[MarcSmith]

that and the velky furrows..J/K. Why not use something like a tractor trailer mud flap....Not trying to take any wind out of your sails or anything....Theya re pretty heavy, and I imagine it would last quite a long time....

Good work....Now get the pressure washer out and clean the mower..:)It'll look brand new....

[nobagger]

I had the same thing on my 36" but the damn chains kept getting stuck in the holes in the lift gate (mesh openings) when backing it off the trailer. Then you had to back it off the trailer at mach 2 so they wouldn't get stuck, but it began to tear up the bottom of the mower. The only problem is you need the chains to drag on the ground a few inches so you need quite a bit of chain. I spent about $85.00 for my whole set up. I finally broke down and bought a kit from Big League Lawns and what a difference in the stripe! It's more defined and just looks better IMO. I just got the kit last week and I paid $180.00 including shipping its a 33" model. I will be glad to sell my original set up, its 22" wide and its connected to a piece of painted angel iron with holes every inch and the chains are connected with quick links, the chains are 3 or 5/16 thick. I think 17" long and there are I belive 22 links total. $50 bucks for it and it still looks brand new.

[mcwlandscaping]

I want the one from big league lawns but the one i need is like $260 for the 42" or something like that price. Too expensive for me right now.

[topsites]

Nice set of directions. Topsites, looks like your mower has been workin pretty hard. Little dirty eh? Thanks again. :waving:

Heh that's my '98, she's been through the paces a few times, I kept the '05 under cover after the spring rush to put the hours back on the old one :rolleyes:

But I broke the T-bar about a week ago (couldn't believe it, the T-bar, lol) so I'm running the new one and of course, no kit for that one as of yet (and no I am not un-installing / re-installing the chain kit, my idea originally was for a Once on-Always On thing).

[topsites]

I had the same thing on my 36" but the damn chains kept getting stuck in the holes in the lift gate (mesh openings) when backing it off the trailer. Then you had to back it off the trailer at mach 2 so they wouldn't get stuck, but it began to tear up the bottom of the mower. The only problem is you need the chains to drag on the ground a few inches so you need quite a bit of chain. I spent about $85.00 for my whole set up. I finally broke down and bought a kit from Big League Lawns and what a difference in the stripe! It's more defined and just looks better IMO. I just got the kit last week and I paid $180.00 including shipping its a 33" model. I will be glad to sell my original set up, its 22" wide and its connected to a piece of painted angel iron with holes every inch and the chains are connected with quick links, the chains are 3 or 5/16 thick. I think 17" long and there are I belive 22 links total. $50 bucks for it and it still looks brand new.

Yeah, I do have a chekmate kit for my new 48" and it does look better but it also gets in the way a LOT more really, but no it doesn't get stuck in the gate of the trailer, I bought one of the largest chains (meaning the loops are HUGE) and that helps, it's the $2.99 / foot chain and I thought about it a LOT and am glad I got the bigger chain now (I would've never thought of it getting caught in the gate, I did it because it was the only one fit on the square sleeve.
Still, yes the rollers have their advantages as well, thou I like the way the chains NEVER get in my way, the rollers are heavier and thus stripe better.
I paid 300 for mine, lol.

[G.M.Landscaping]

Never seen or heard of a striping kit before joing here, and I've been cutting for 15 yrs. My Q is: Why aren't the chains as wide as the deck or close to it. It looks like they're 18-24" wide?

[work_it]

Never seen or heard of a striping kit before joing here, and I've been cutting for 15 yrs. My Q is: Why aren't the chains as wide as the deck or close to it. It looks like they're 18-24" wide?
Because you're main concern is combing/bending the lawn between the wheels. That will give it more of a solid stripe look instead of having a light stripe with darker wheel marks.

[topsites]

Never seen or heard of a striping kit before joing here, and I've been cutting for 15 yrs. My Q is: Why aren't the chains as wide as the deck or close to it. It looks like they're 18-24" wide?

Just got back to this thread after someone else asked about stripers, sorry I have 'do not subscribe' checked in my cp to keep my email down, but...

I wondered about the same thing (the width) and for this reason when I ordered the Chekmate kit, I got the 48" kit because my deck is 48" wide.

Here is what I learned:
- The rear tires of the mower are as good as the kit in striping as they lay the grass down flat in the same direction. The tires are only a few inches (either side) inside of the deck (at least on the 48").
- Anything BEHIND the rear tires will swing OUT in a turn, and thus can get caught on obstacles, such as the corner of a house. You do NOT want to get a striper caught, it's the same basic effect as hitting a tree stump - the faster you're going, the worse it feels.
- The few inches left on the outside of the rear tires makes little difference, a few inches of overlap are made on every pass, anyway.
- Last but not least, the wider the kit, the heavier it gets: Believe it or not, the 48" pro kit I bought slows the Wb down, I can feel it the way I can feel my trailer on the truck (not nearly as bad, but still). And back to an earlier point, when it comes to maneuvering, the larger kits get in the way much like a bigger trailer is harder to deal with than a smaller one.

Another way to say it is, the kit is something I want to put on the Wb and not have to think about no more. I don't like to have to remove/re-install the stupid thing every yard, I don't want to worry about getting it caught on obstacles, etc... For that matter, I re-worked the chekmate kit to where it's all quick-release (with clips) now, it comes from the factory with nuts and bolts, making it a real prob every yard you want it on, 5-10 minutes spent dealing with the kit is bs.

So, I should've got about a 30" kit, or thereabouts (you can read more on the chekmate site about this crazy bit).
Live and learn :)

[FIVE-0LAWNS]

Can I do this on a 48" Toro Z? Apparently no-one makes a striping kit for the 48" deck on my Z. :drinkup: :drinkup: :drinkup:

[topsites]

Can I do this on a 48" Toro Z? Apparently no-one makes a striping kit for the 48" deck on my Z. :drinkup: :drinkup: :drinkup:

I don't see why not, just make sure the chain is long enough but not too long, you got to think about it some before you go get the stuff from Home Depot, plan it out at least in your head but a few scribbles on paper never hurt. Basically longer is better but you need to make sure it is short enough to where it does not get caught in the blades when backing, under the tires when turning, or anyplace else really.

By the way, the chain does wear over time, I can see some wear on the bottom links but it has been on there full-time for a year...