First thing to look for

[George777]

What do some of you first look at when doing a residental bid? I first introduce myself and find out what the customers needs are and then measure off the turf. I look how much string trimming needs to be done and edging. I then will consualt with my partner and we decide how much to charge and give the customer a choice of a weekly service or bi-weekly at either 10 months or 12. The needs of the customer will dertermine the price.

I was just wanting to get some help with this. My first customer was telling me his needs but I was pushing for a weekly service. He called back and I told him I would be happy to service him on a bi-weekly agreement for 10 months and he said fine.

I'm finding out now how important it is to listen for that need and then show them hoe you are going to fill it.

[Pauls Mowing]

Your last paragraph pretty much says it all.

Paul

[George777]

Thaks Paul, I was wanting to see if I'm doing it right.

[kutnkru]

Dont forget to survey the property when you are measuring. Some site conditions will detremine what equipment can or cannot be used for maintenance.

Keep an eye open for things such as landscape lighting, invisible fencing and irrigation. This will determine where you should not run Aerators and Power Rakes.

Also look for those areas that will be considered wetlands, or berms/uneven terrain when determining how to tackle the mowing as well.

Good Luck this season!
Kris

[George777]

kutnkru, thanks for your input. I would hate to scalp a customers lawn. I have a potental customer asking for aeration. Should I have him sign a statement that states I'm not responsible for low power wires or improperly installed sprinkler systems.I have herd of people putting sprinkler systems in and only put the pipe a few inches into the ground.

[kutnkru]

ABSOLUTELY

If they dont have a diagram left by their IC(irrigation contractor)as to how the irrigation was installed, I would definitely have them sign a waiver because you should not be held responsible for improper workmanship on the part of the IC.

If they do not, I would advise that you manually operate the system to mark all heads. I would charge them for one hour labor for this task. Use flags when you have the system on and then go back thru and cut back encroaching(sp) turf to improve the performance of the system. Make a rendering of the site, keep the original and give them a color copy.

None-the-less, make sure that you abide by the Golden Rule:Cover Thy Own A$$ First!

Hope this helps.
Kris

[George777]

I have not aerated a lawn yet and I was thinking about roots as well. Do you just go aroung the roots? I would think the the tines would get damaged if they hit some roots.
I told the potential customer that we need to wait until the end of March because if in the event we get some more frost. Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm thinking that frost might hurt the root system.

Good point Kris about flagging all sprinkler heads and looking at the diagram.

[joshua]

kutnkru basically said it all, also look for trees in the yard and next store for the fall and leaves. i look at the yards and see how well they took care of it before, basically you said the type of customer you really would not like to have. you really don't want to have a biweekly customer in the spring and fall because thats when the grass grows the fastest (common sense) and most likely it is going to be hard for you to cut it in the time you desire. this should play a role in price i tell them if they want it done like this and the grass is 8 inches high the price just went up some more, and if they say no i walk, but i tell them as soon as i get to the site. and when i walk they call me back the next day and want to try and figure a way out on how i could get there every week for now. if not i have 4 people calling me and wanting a bid. there's to many weekly jobs out there to stick with someone thats wants biweekly.

[kutnkru]

Visible roots I would avoid. As for those that will be within the first 5ft of the tree just slow down as you pass by. This will prevent the machine from throwing you all over the lawn.

You definitely do not want to aerate too early in the spring. The snow is usually gone by the first wek of April here, and we start our aerations late the second week but no later than the third. This is a judgement call that has to be made based upon the weather conditions you are faceing for each particular spring.

We have had some seasons where we cannot mow until May and others we have almost 4-5 cuttings in by then. It all depends on what the Good Mother has dealt us! :)


Hope this helps.
Kris

[Edited by kutnkru on 03-12-2001 at 03:47 AM]

[HOMER]

When you get to the yard and are doing your survey the first thing you do is point your nose to the sky and spin 360 degrees. If your observant you will know real fast how much the fall months are going to affect your bid. Never bid a yearly based on what you see in the spring and summer, always base it on what WILL be there for you in the fall. October thru January are rough months down here, be prepared to work harder then than in the growing season.

[George777]

Good point Homer,I have not given that much thought.Do you only cut an a 12 month agreement?
I had a lady today tell me that 25.00 per cut was about right but she could not commit to 10 months or 1 year. She just wanted to call me when she felt it needed cutting. I told her we operate like that.

[accuratelawn]

George,
Did you mean to say, "We don't operate like that".?
I would not take those, "I will call you when it needs it" accounts. Too hard to schedule. They usually will call after 3 or 4 weeks when the property is a mess!

[Chopper Lover]

George,

Find out when the sprinkler system activates and for how long. You don't want to be there when the system is watering the lawn or just after.

Also, some yards in my area stay real damp in the mornings from the dew. We knocked 35 minutes off our day just by swithcing them from the first cut in the morning to the last in the afternoon.

Moral of the story: Cutting wet grass is a pain and it slows you down. Plan your route around it.

Mark

[awm]

As to what I look at first.How rough is terrain.
Id rather mow half a day, as mow a bumpy yd.
Just makes the day long.

[joshua]

about what george said she'll call you when she feels it needs cut. there not bad if you're starting out and need work, but don't do them if your in full time, common sense. i wanted to drop some nice old lady who would do that, and she called one time and i went to the yard and it was about a foot high, so i just keep on going. i called her later that night when i got home and told her if she was going to have me cut it my price is going to have to be double, she said ok. next day her son calls me and tells me not to go to the yard, and starts chewing me out about how she can't afford that much. i swear people have some nerve, the yard should of been cut 3 times by the time she called. they should of been jumping at the price i said. i went by the next day and there were piles of grass every where it made me sick, but glad i didn't cut it anyway, i picked up 2 new customers, that night.

people who say they will call when it needs is a lose/lose property.

[Edited by joshua on 03-13-2001 at 02:38 AM]

[HOMER]

George, I have some that I still cut on an as need basis. I feel it helps out in the growing months with the added expenses. I never let them get to bad before I holler! Most of those are ones I started with and couldnt convince to go yearly. I shed some last year to my backstabber friend that I just couldnt get too and didnt want anyway. There are 3 in a row that I still do summer only and pick up a quick $105.00, I didnt want to give these away, too easy!

As you evolve, you will eventually start demanding year round only. You need these to stay afloat during the winter months.................convince them of the need. I know your just getting started and its hard to turn down anything right now but the time will come when you can be more selective. Keep what you want and cull the rest. Replace a seasonal everytime you get a yearly...........whatever works and keeps you on track.

[little green guy]

Forget what the yard is like, the first thing I do on an estimate is determine what the customer is going to be like and If I want to work for them or not.I can usually tell by thier attitude what they will be like to work for and I'm not going to waste my time on price shoppers, cheapskates or people that are going to be a nussaince. If someone has the nicest, flatest easiest lawn to mow but dosn''t want to pay and has an attitude they're not worth the hassle. On the other hand if someone has the steepest most difficult lawn to mow but is willing to pay and has a good attitude I'll give them the highset level of service possible. To me it's all about the attitude, don't waste your time on jokers that are going to play you because they are not worth it.

[awm]

Ive had to learn to deal with all kinds.
But I HATE A ROUGH WEEKLY.somthing to
not look forward to.Course the fact that this body been bumped around alot probably got something to do with it.
THE ZTR MAKES IT EASIER THOUGH.

[George777]

I would like to thank each one of you for replying to this post. I have gained a lot of info from your input. My partner and I did cut the ladies grass today. It was not to bad. Since we are just starting out we need all the business we can get. I feel we did an awesome job for her and she had the chech under the door mat. I'm getting fired up because we have another estamate to do tomorrow. From what I've seen in my shot time in the business many lco's are not dependable or do not even return calls. My partner and I wish to continue to do the best we can on all our customers lawns.

Maybe spending a few minutes with each customer has something to do with it. Anyway you all have been a great help to me.
Thanx