Collapsed lifter on a Kohler command engine?

[furball3]

Thursday my mower started making lifter type noises. Within a few minutes it went from just noticeable to really bad & loud.

I have just 475 hours on it.

I took the valve cover off on the left side and the top rocker arm can move fairly easily about an 1/8th inch(The push rod moving back into the lifter. (see pic)

Would this be a collapsed lifter? Or is there some adjustment that can be made to tighten this back up to what it should be?

If it is the lifter is this somthing that a mostly competent shade tree mechanic replace or is it a dealer only job?

Thanks
Les

[Restrorob]

[QUOTE=furball3]Thursday my mower started making lifter type noises. Within a few minutes it went from just noticeable to really bad & loud.

I have just 475 hours on it.

I took the valve cover off on the left side and the top rocker arm can move fairly easily about an 1/8th inch(The push rod moving back into the lifter. (see pic)

Would this be a collapsed lifter? Or is there some adjustment that can be made to tighten this back up to what it should be?

If it is the lifter is this somthing that a mostly competent shade tree mechanic replace or is it a dealer only job?

Thanks
Les[/QUOT

[jim dailey]

MAN, I took one look at that picture... Now, I AM NOT a small engine mechanic like some of these guys, but I am better known as a backyard mechanic, WAY out in the backyard !!! There is no way that should be like that. Find out the adjustment for that valve and adjust it accordingly. Make sure that motor has 10-30W oil. I just had my Kohler CV-18 apart this morning and took both valve covers off and check my rockers, only visually. Nothing like that. Ask some of these REAL mechanics for the valve data and tackle the problem. I am not sure in how to tell you to check for a collapsed lifter. They will be happy to help you out.

[furball3]

restrorob thanks for the reply - but I dont see anything other then my original post in your reply.

hope you didnt type too much :p

[Restrorob]

restrorob thanks for the reply - but I dont see anything other then my original post in your reply.

hope you didnt type too much :p

Sorry about that, It wouldn't take my link. Anyway that is a collapsed lifter and there is no adjustment just replacment. The intake and exhaust must be removed then the head to replace the lifter and while your in there I would suggest replacing both. I'm gonna try again to post a link where you can down-load a service manual to perform the task at hand properly.
Good luck

[Restrorob]

Ok, Here's a link http://www.kohlerplus.com/login.asp

Click on enter as guest, Then Service Literature, There you can down-load a Service Manual.

[grass_cuttin_fool]

I have heard that kohler uses the same hydraulic lifter as the small block chevy engines, any thruth to that?

[smokey]

It is not necessary to reply to a post with a quote.It seems on most bulletin boards people want to reply by first quoting what was already posted. I don't see the need for that. Anyone with half a brain can look back and fiqure out what the original post was. Just my two cents.

[soilman]

Yea, that gap is way too big, at any point in the cycle, but how do you know that the valve is not stuck open, rather than the lifter being collapsed?

And is that an exhaust valve or intake valve?

I think if an intake or exhaust valve were stuck open, due to bent stem, or failed spring, you would get an entirely different set of sounds than if the valve stayed closed or never opened fully, due to the lifter being collapsed.

[Restrorob]

how do you know that the valve is not stuck open, rather than the lifter being collapsed?

Given the amout of distance between the valve spring coils and the angle of the rocker arm with the pivot I'm gonna stick with a colapsed lifter.

[Restrorob]

It is not necessary to reply to a post with a quote.It seems on most bulletin boards people want to reply by first quoting what was already posted. I don't see the need for that. Anyone with half a brain can look back and fiqure out what the original post was. Just my two cents.

Thanks, I'll take that under advisement.

[barnard]

Yea, that gap is way too big, at any point in the cycle, but how do you know that the valve is not stuck open, rather than the lifter being collapsed?

And is that an exhaust valve or intake valve?

I think if an intake or exhaust valve were stuck open, due to bent stem, or failed spring, you would get an entirely different set of sounds than if the valve stayed closed or never opened fully, due to the lifter being collapsed.
He stated the engine was noisy. The engine won't run with a valve stuck open unless its a twin running on one good cylinder

[Dirty Water]

Thanks, I'll take that under advisement.

You just got hero status in my eyes.

:)

[fixer67]

When was that last oil change and what weight was it?

You HAVE to use 10W-30 for the hydraulic lifters for them to work right. If SAE 30 was put in like you would use in lets say a Briggs the lifters will make all kinds of noise. They will sound like they are going to jump out and run off down the road. Have not seen one collapse from using SAE 30 but that is something to think about. You may want to change the oil when you put in the new lifters. By the way you can not just take the new ones out of the box and drop them in or you will bent a push rod on start up. It is all the the service manual and you have the link to that. Have fun

[furball3]

Sorry about that, It wouldn't take my link. Anyway that is a collapsed lifter and there is no adjustment just replacment. The intake and exhaust must be removed then the head to replace the lifter and while your in there I would suggest replacing both. I'm gonna try again to post a link where you can down-load a service manual to perform the task at hand properly.
Good luck

Sigh..

Thats what I figured. so I cleaned out a spot in the garage tonight to do this.

Thanks!

[furball3]

It is not necessary to reply to a post with a quote.It seems on most bulletin boards people want to reply by first quoting what was already posted. I don't see the need for that. Anyone with half a brain can look back and fiqure out what the original post was. Just my two cents.


Thanks Smokey! I will keep that in mind!

:waving:

[furball3]

Yea, that gap is way too big, at any point in the cycle, but how do you know that the valve is not stuck open, rather than the lifter being collapsed?

And is that an exhaust valve or intake valve?

I think if an intake or exhaust valve were stuck open, due to bent stem, or failed spring, you would get an entirely different set of sounds than if the valve stayed closed or never opened fully, due to the lifter being collapsed.

Good questions! The valve ends were on an equal plane.

and

The pushrod was being pused back into the lifter. when I released the presssure from the end of the rocker the lifter was pusing the rod back into the valve.

[furball3]

When was that last oil change and what weight was it?

You HAVE to use 10W-30 for the hydraulic lifters for them to work right. If SAE 30 was put in like you would use in lets say a Briggs the lifters will make all kinds of noise. They will sound like they are going to jump out and run off down the road. Have not seen one collapse from using SAE 30 but that is something to think about. You may want to change the oil when you put in the new lifters. By the way you can not just take the new ones out of the box and drop them in or you will bent a push rod on start up. It is all the the service manual and you have the link to that. Have fun

Oh I am a firm beliver of 10w-30!

I fry my turkey in it at thanksgiving just about. (I have decided that 20-50 with its lower boiling point gives a beter cooking time....

[furball3]

Thanks, I'll take that under advisement.

Where is the 2 thumbs up smillie??????

[Restrorob]

Where is the 2 thumbs up smillie??????


Oh, You talking about this one ? :cool2: It got lost in the shuffle :laugh: