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View Full Version : oil question again??????


milo
09-20-2005, 12:19 AM
now in my mowers, is it ok, good, great or dont do it to run 15w40 delo oil???? i know it is for diesel's to but is it good for in your mower engines???

Envy Lawn Service
09-20-2005, 12:44 AM
The Chevron Delo 400 15w40 is some fine oil... really good for off road engine use.

I've ran Chevron/Texaco/Havoline oil with great sucess for years.
I have engines I run the 10w30 in and engines I run the 15w40 in.
No oil/wear related failures with either grade, but the 15w40 is a bit tougher and better.

Not sure about your Honda engine though.
Don't have one of those big twins.
What are ALL the grade recommendations in the manual?

Brianslawn
09-20-2005, 01:01 AM
just dont make this into another 380 page thread like the last one...lol

Envy Lawn Service
09-20-2005, 01:06 AM
Yeah really. I got so tired of typing in that one that I never did really even finish up in that one.

topsites
09-20-2005, 01:07 AM
LOL...

I run ONLY synthetic blend OR pure synthetic, if it doesn't say synthetic blend OR full synthetic on the bottle, I don't run it.
From now until end of month (I think) Advance Auto Parts has a special ON:
6 quarts of Pennzoil FULL Synthetic 5w-30 *OR*
6 quarts of Quaker State FULL Synthetic 10w-30
(or a combination but 6 quart limit).
$2.08 each (normal price for FULL synth is near $5/each).
Only thing is, it involves a $15 mail-in rebate so it does cost a bit at the register and you spend 10 minutes and a stamp + envelope plus a few weeks to get your rebate.
Still, I did it, got my 6 qt's :)

topsites
09-20-2005, 01:10 AM
One day, when I have an engine I no longer need because it's so old and I have no other use for it, I want to REALLY test this out:

(Consider now, all I ever run is synth.blend or full.synth {thou 95% blend})
...
I want to drain all the oil out, then run it WOT for 20 minutes straight JUST to see for real / for real if synth.blend is really as good as I honestly think it is (to be honest, I believe the motor will hold up).

Envy Lawn Service
09-20-2005, 01:23 AM
One day, when I have an engine I no longer need because it's so old and I have no other use for it, I want to REALLY test this out:

(Consider now, all I ever run is synth.blend or full.synth {thou 95% blend})
...
I want to drain all the oil out, then run it WOT for 20 minutes straight JUST to see for real / for real if synth.blend is really as good as I honestly think it is (to be honest, I believe the motor will hold up).

Well you are in left field and out of character on this one.

I had you totally figured for the guy who would say save the extra $4 per qt and put it in the piggy bank for a new engine. I pulled this on my Opti-4/Opti-2 dealer. The 2 cycle stuff is good and reasonably priced. The Opti-4 is not... even though they will double your engine warranty for oil related stuff. It's cheaper to buy a new engine than pay for that stuff for 4 years.

Anyways, try your engine trick.
You could knock the zero off that time and I still doubt it would make it.

milo
09-20-2005, 01:27 AM
i posted in the other one that when i was in school auto tech. they brought in a guy that had a motor on it and a torque wrench and he tried all dirrerent oils pennsoil, castrol, mobile, quakerstate, a bunch of synthetics and full synthetics and did a test to show us how much lbs of pressure it would take to stop the motor. all regular oils and semi and full synthetics all stoped the wheel between like 8 and 11lbs of pressure.. then he poured in oil with moly in it. that did not lock up till there was like 19lbs of pressure.. i really want to find a motor oil with molly cause i seen for real how good it is with friction...
i do run motul full synthetic 15w50 in my gsxr 1000 but that thing revs to 12,000 rpm's $12.95 a quart...
do most people know the difference on here between base oils and synthetics? synthetics, they take bad stuff in oil out and put in better stuff. base oils just have some additives, not much taken out, that is why it is cheaper..
i want oil with alot of moly in it and the only kind i know of for sure is honda semi syn. with moly. $6.95 a quart at motorcycle shops and that is to much to pay for all my mowers...

topsites
09-20-2005, 01:40 AM
Well you are in left field and out of character on this one.

I had you totally figured for the guy who would say save the extra $4 per qt and put it in the piggy bank for a new engine. I pulled this on my Opti-4/Opti-2 dealer. The 2 cycle stuff is good and reasonably priced. The Opti-4 is not... even though they will double your engine warranty for oil related stuff. It's cheaper to buy a new engine than pay for that stuff for 4 years.

Anyways, try your engine trick.
You could knock the zero off that time and I still doubt it would make it.

No say what? I'm not putting NEW oil in it, I'm draining the OLD oil out, give me SOME credit, the $2 still goes towards the new engine :)
I have around 87 quarts (6 of it full, the rest is blend) of oil stored as I buy it in quantity ONLY when it's on sale. Thus far, I've paid an average price per quart of $1.96 with the tax (retail nowadays is close to $3 for blend) so the money is saved in other ways as well, call it an interest that builds as I use the oil over the next 4-5 years not to mention it gives me the ability to stay operational for a LONG time with very little income (I store a LOT of supplies this way, weedtrimmer string I must have 30 years worth thou I did mess up and bought 1 roll too many lol). Ear plugs at least 10 year's supply, blades another 10 years, Round-up 2-3 years, etc, etc...

I only run blend or full in everything that does NOT require mix gas (except the truck, it leaks and it WOULD be too expensive). Far as expense, all my equipment gets 1 oil change / year but I watch the oil, the ONLY equipment I really have to watch are the mowers as they get used ALL season so when the oil turns way dark in the full-time machine, I switch and start using the other one. Everything else is so seasonal (i.e.: the pushblower is used in fall only, I change the oil right before it gets ready to be used, then when I'm done it sits until next fall because NO I don't DO leaves in spring).

Far as the mix, I run all of that on the Stihl-mfg 2-cycle mix, echo and everything that requires mix, stihl 2-cycle mix.

Envy Lawn Service
09-20-2005, 01:44 AM
milo,

A LOT of motor oils now have really good forms of moly in them... ones that d not settle out.
The oils I listed have a good dose of it.
These oils rival synthetics.

My only problem is that lately these oils have been in short supply around me.
Maybe this is another shortage showing up from the Hurricane?
I don't know, but I ended up having to put something else in the Lesco.

Anyways, go over to the "Bob is the Oil Guy" site and do some reading. Run searches for the oils you are interested in. By that I mean search the oil analisis part of the forum. You will be able to check out the tested values of this kind of stuff for virgin oil and used oil.

Some of the oil brand websites will have spec sheets also. Compile this info and make a decision. To this day, I still maintain that synthetic oil is not worth the extra $3-$4-$5-$6 bucks a quart over good dino oil. Especially not for use in a small lawn mower motor.

Envy Lawn Service
09-20-2005, 02:03 AM
Holy crap!!!

One oil change a year? Way dark? Heck I'd say :p
Not that a lot of oils couldn't protect in extended drain...
But you just can't keep the oil clean enough in these engines to think in terms of EDI.

This 25hp Kawi on my Lesco might be the exception, but generally 25-50 hours.
I say 50 hours is an EDI for many air cooled gas engines.
It's filthy by then in most cases.

I was going to see how far I might could go with that Kawi on the Lesco this time around. But I'm not using my 'usual' oil and I have to see first how it stands up... Then maybe.

I'll just have to see how this oil & filter combo does first.

MBDiagMan
09-20-2005, 09:50 AM
The following is a list of oil related issues that relate to stretching engine life. They are listed from the most important to the least important:

1. See that there is oil of some kind in the engine.
2. Check it frequently enough to see that the level does not get low.
3. Change the oil peiodically.
4. Change the oil AND filter frequently.
5. Choose an oil weight that matches your temperature requirements. There are oil weight/temperature charts in most all owners manuals.
6. Use an oil with the latest certification, such as SJ or CJ-4.
7. Use a premium brand.
8. If you can afford it, use a premium synthetic of the correct weight and classification, but don't get carried away with stretching oil change intervals because it is a synthetic. The second most important job of oil is to clean the inside of the engine. Regardless of whether you use synth or dino, your engine is still fouling the oil and it must be drained to clean the crankcase.


One could move the order of these a little in places, but you get the idea.

Have a great day,
Doc

LawnBrother
09-20-2005, 10:07 AM
This spring I was hearing some lifter noise from my Kohler 15, my mechanic recommended Motorcraft 10w-30 Diesel oil. Well, after the oil change there was no lifter noise at all and has not been since. So in my case, I think it was really good for my engine.

Envy Lawn Service
09-20-2005, 11:56 AM
Yep, and most of the diesel oils today are also rated for mixed fleets.
Gas and Diesel.

Diesel oil is better and stronger from the base stock to the additive package because it must be.

TClawn
09-20-2005, 03:13 PM
I am currently using delo 400 15w-40 in my engines. I just switched a little while ago, so I don't have much to say about it yet. we shall see. one thing I do know, is that delo 400 has a good amount of moly in it. I don't believe that shell rotella 15w-40 has much in it at all, but is still a great oil, and would go with it instead of the delo if you can find it cheaply (costco, sams club. etc.) the reason for this, is that 65hoss, and I belive envy, have used shell rotella in their mowers for a while, so it is more tested than the delo.

lawnmaniac883
09-20-2005, 04:10 PM
Chevron Delo 400 is a heavy duty oil with some tough detergents designed for the operation of a diesel engine, although it is probably o.k to use in your mower engine, I would not recommend it.

MBDiagMan
09-20-2005, 06:34 PM
And why would you not recomend the dino oil with the highest Total Base Number in independent laboratory tests?

I have been using Delo in most everything on my place for almost 20 years and have gotten VERY high mileage from cars, trucks, and very high hours from tractors and small engines.

Yes it has lots of detergent additives. I hope you don't see that as a bad thing. The detergents (actually not detergents but that is what most people call these additives) are absolutely mandatory for diesel engines but work VERY well in gas engines as well.

There are lots of myths surrounding universal grade oils such as Delo, but I have enough odometers and hour meters around here with large numbers on them that I am TOTALLY convinced of the quality of this oil and more importantly, the results of using this great product.

This is not to say that there are other great oils, but I am personally convinced of the effectiveness through first hand experience.

Have a great day,
Doc

Envy Lawn Service
09-20-2005, 09:51 PM
Yup... ditto what Doc said.

I'm a Chevron/Texaco/Havoline man all the way.
Naturally Delo 400 is my 15w40 of choice.