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armorl&s
09-23-2005, 03:18 PM
this is my first year with a zero turn mower toro z master 62". i am having trouble in tight areas with the rear tires tearing up the lawn. is this possibly a air pressure problem any help would be greatly appreciated :help: :help: :help:

Maitland Man
09-23-2005, 04:41 PM
you've got to turn it around like you are in a wheelchair....one wheel goes forward, the other backwards.

Dennis

Pecker
09-23-2005, 04:43 PM
Yep, have to do the classic "Y" turn.

NickN
09-23-2005, 04:51 PM
I'll try to explain.This is the easiest method I've come up with as far as explaining.
Slow down to a crawl near the end of your run.
If you want to turn around to your left,let go of your right stick and slowly pull back on your left stick.Enough so that your left tire starts rolling in reverse.Never stop the tire from moving.
Once you get turned around,push your left stick forward,as well as your right stick.
You need to leave one side(the opposing side to the direction you're turning) going straight while your reversing the other side(the side your turning into).

jbell113
09-23-2005, 05:02 PM
I just bought one myself 2 weeks ago and I have the same problem.

Tonyr
09-23-2005, 08:28 PM
the hydro system isn't very forgiving on the toro, you have to be ultra gentle with the levers. also, the stock tyres, they don't grip well so the machine tends to lose traction and scuff very easy. tyres with more grip actually scuff less, hard to believe yes, but true....so dunno why they use that particular carsyle tyre model, it sucks.

and as said, don't zero turn, but more a 'Y' turn. they really should be called YTR's, not ZTR's , lol.

BALDEAGLE
09-23-2005, 10:04 PM
if ya use that groovy little search feature, you'll likely find hundreds of hits on that subject. :p

jgtxusa
09-23-2005, 10:18 PM
Listen to these guys. Dont lock up the inside tire.

Envy Lawn Service
09-23-2005, 10:28 PM
Sometimes, the Y-turn, K-turn, don't lock the inside tire, ect...
Well it just don't always help and work.
Depends more on the terrain and soil condition.

Heavily shaded lawns are a nightmare because they are so tender.
I believe it is caused by a lack of traction and simple physics.

Smitty58
09-27-2005, 04:42 AM
I'm having this same problem so when I read this I took the thoughts given and tried them. No matter how slow or k-turn, y-turn I still tear the turf. So much so I wish I had never bought a Z and stuck with the w/b instead. I love the speed and comfort of a z but this is driving me crazy. Do the tires tear less after some wear or not? Seems to me for flat lawns a slick tire would not tear as much but then any hill you'd be screwed. I have a Ferris 1500 btw.

Shuter
09-27-2005, 06:11 AM
Too much air pressure can cause ripping, also going too fast.

BladeRunner1967
09-27-2005, 07:11 AM
Took me about a month to get used to it. You just need "stick" time under your belt

Envy Lawn Service
09-27-2005, 10:26 AM
I'm having this same problem so when I read this I took the thoughts given and tried them. No matter how slow or k-turn, y-turn I still tear the turf. So much so I wish I had never bought a Z and stuck with the w/b instead. I love the speed and comfort of a z but this is driving me crazy. Do the tires tear less after some wear or not? Seems to me for flat lawns a slick tire would not tear as much but then any hill you'd be screwed. I have a Ferris 1500 btw.

The Ferris 1500 is light in the _____ .
So you have the same problem we face, but possibly worse.
Lack of traction and lack of weight to get traction...


As for whoever said whatever about "stick time"....
This has nothing to do with that.
Different issue.

There is a difference between operator error/learning curve and a machine's inability to overcome simple physics and turn without slipping, sliding, spinning and tearing turf because of it.

SpudsM15
09-27-2005, 11:30 AM
We just got a Z this season too. Been running it for about 8 weeks or so. I can't seem to do a actual zero turn without messing up the lawn. The only way I've managed not to mess up the lawns are to do a k turn. Which minimizes the damage from the rear tires. But, now I am finding out that in those tender areas its not the rear tires that is messing up the lawns. Its the front castors....So then I put my concentration on turning smoothly enough to make the castors spin on the lawns nicely... that is when I start to mess up with the rear tires again....

Really I think the productivty for the machine could be better... With the WB w/ sulky I think I have it to the maximum. Eventhough I have cut time of my cutting days with the Z. The turning around really effects the productivty of the machine. But, that time lost is made up in the speed on the straight aways... Plus the floating deck that I can hover while moving with np.. And At the end of the day my hands don't hurt.....
Really I don't think we can do anything about it. Because Z's weigh a pretty penny more than WB's....

waffletown20
09-27-2005, 02:13 PM
Try filling both tanks to the top and see if you get better tracktion. A weight kit might also benefit you. I find if I look at the inside tire as I'm turning and I make sure that it grips the lawn, my outside tire slowly turns with very little pressure on the stick.

Smitty58
09-27-2005, 10:38 PM
I tried my hardest today while mowing to get this technique down. Again it did not matter how slow I turn or whatever I still tear the turf. I had a different Z last year that did not do this anywhere near what this Ferris does ,and I now have approx. 250 hrs stick time so that aint the problem. I love the productivity of the Z but this tearing problem is a real issue for me. Does everyone have this problem ,and what do your customers say about it?
Also does a hydro w/b do the same thing?

brucec32
09-29-2005, 07:27 PM
On some lawns you will have damage problems no matter how good you are. Sparse lawns in soft soil conditions, lawns with weak shallow root systems, etc. There are times I wish I had a nice hydro walk behind for these lawns, but you lose so much in other ways. The thick Bermuda lawns I cut that are usually small and tight are no problem. And the bigger lawns around here with fewer turns(and broader ones) are Fescue, which damages easier, so it generally works well with just a ZTR on most lawns.

A 62" is a big, heavy mower. I went no bigger than a the Exmark HP series 48" for this very reason. I was hoping it would minimize damage to turf. But, that said, the right tire might make a difference. I've used full sized lazers that seemed softer on turf actually. But the wider rear tire may have been the reason.

Smitty58
09-30-2005, 11:46 AM
I think I have figured this out. I practiced in my own yard and finally came up with something that works. You don't really want a zero turn anyway because then you would be going back on the line you just cut. What you want is to turn around but be over 1 width. So this is what I came up with and it works. At the end of you pass if you want to turn left, angle out at a 45 degree to the left approx 5 feet, stop, spin slowly, stop, then go. This lets you get into the next cutting lane without tearing the turf and it only takes a couple of seconds. I found it faster and better than a K-turn, So give it a try and let me know, it worked great for me. What I found was the tearing really happens at the split second you go from spinning to moving forward again, so if you spin slowly and stop before proceding it works.

Shady Brook
09-30-2005, 07:11 PM
At this time of year I will tear shady lawns with my front castors. If you watch them, as soon as the twist back on themselves they will leave bare earth. Not always but in shade in fall it is bad. These machines are beauty and the beast. They are awesome for alot of reasons but can also be a wrecking ball. But boy what a wrecking ball when it has a suspension seat!

riches139
09-30-2005, 07:50 PM
Try, if possible, cut when turf is dry. Soil is harder at that point and will not tear as easily.
Shaded wet lawns are the worst.