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SUMMERSET
10-04-2005, 06:39 AM
I have a customer that lives on a local resevoir. She has been losing her back yard due to erosion from the resevoir. She has asked me about putting in a retaining wall that will stop the erosion. I have seen the use of rip rap on the banks of alot of places and this seems to work pretty good. My question is if I install a block retaining wall up now since the water is down because of drought will it hold up to the water once it rises to normal level. What is a good block system to use for this installation?
I thought about using a bigger block with plenty of gravel behind the wall and plenty of drainage to drain the water from behind the wall.
Will the water wash away the base material if I use crusher run and compact down?

Big Hoss
10-04-2005, 02:52 PM
Check out Versa Lock's retaining wall system . Haven't used in this type of application but they say it can be done .
I think the ones you want to use are the Brutes @ 240 lbs I think .

Big Hoss

Dig-it Landscaping
10-04-2005, 03:44 PM
Versa-lok puts out publications with the methods and specs. for installing that type of wall. The publication you need is Technical Bulletin #1 "Shoreline, Waterway, and Retention Pond Protection". i belive i got the bulletin by going to the website and requesting it in the mail. it would probably be faster to locate a local dealer and request the literature. if you cant get it i can probably get a scanner and email it to you. PM me if you need me to do this. Hope this helped.

Grassmechanic
10-05-2005, 12:23 PM
Get a Corps of Engineer's permit first.

UNISCAPER
10-07-2005, 11:48 PM
"Get a Corps of Engineer's permit first."

That is like pulling teeth. they will ask you for an environmental imapct study, a soils report, and engineered drawing stamped and certified for a hefty fee.
My personal favorite for sea walls is Unilock "Durahold", 1600 lb stones, or siena stone, 500 lb stones. "Both measure near 20" wide and the easiest way to set them is with a crane. Production times, once you get the base course layed are very fast with just a handful of crew, one on the wall, one attaching the block to the clamp and another running a skid steer....

For base, it is going to depend upon soils underneath, which is why you should hire a geo-tech. Most walls, use 3" rip rap slammed into the muck, wrapped in fabric first. Then use crusher for leveling. After it is all done, you have to lay about a 1' layer of 3-6" rip rap on the toe of the wall to stop erosion.

Depending on how high you are going to raise it, you will probably need Strata Grid to stabilize the wall, but the engineer will tell you the mechanics of the wall.

An alternative to a manufacturered wall might be to use gabions instead. Once you fill the wire basket with rip rap, they provide the washed rock you need for the back fill all in one. If you set gabions at a 25° batter, in good soils they can stack 10' high with no grid.

For your cleints info, plan on $10,000 minimum in professional fees, and another $2,000.00 budgeted for permits. That is if everything comes off without a hitch..

Grassmechanic
10-08-2005, 05:34 PM
"Get a Corps of Engineer's permit first."

That is like pulling teeth. they will ask you for an environmental imapct study, a soils report, and engineered drawing stamped and certified for a hefty fee.
My personal favorite for sea walls is Unilock "Durahold", 1600 lb stones, or siena stone, 500 lb stones. "Both measure near 20" wide and the easiest way to set them is with a crane. Production times, once you get the base course layed are very fast with just a handful of crew, one on the wall, one attaching the block to the clamp and another running a skid steer....

For base, it is going to depend upon soils underneath, which is why you should hire a geo-tech. Most walls, use 3" rip rap slammed into the muck, wrapped in fabric first. Then use crusher for leveling. After it is all done, you have to lay about a 1' layer of 3-6" rip rap on the toe of the wall to stop erosion.

Depending on how high you are going to raise it, you will probably need Strata Grid to stabilize the wall, but the engineer will tell you the mechanics of the wall.

An alternative to a manufacturered wall might be to use gabions instead. Once you fill the wire basket with rip rap, they provide the washed rock you need for the back fill all in one. If you set gabions at a 25° batter, in good soils they can stack 10' high with no grid.

For your cleints info, plan on $10,000 minimum in professional fees, and another $2,000.00 budgeted for permits. That is if everything comes off without a hitch..
You're right Bill, they are a pain and usually take about 1 year to get. But if you are doing ANY work involvng a body of water or it's banks that has riparian rights, you'd best get one. I know of several folks that had to remove their walls and return the bank to it's original condition. Then came the fines. payup