Any one modify their Oregon 88-023 blade grinder so it actually works good?

[KathysLGC]

At first I was happy with the grinder having never used one before. I have the 88-023. After getting good with it I am unhappy with the performance.

For one, the grinding wheel is too hard. (yes I have a wheel dresser)

From day one it would heat the blades up fast. What i started doing was keeping a bucket of cold water near by so i could cool the blades up.

My second gripe is the lack of support near the grinding wheel. As you slide the blade in and the tip nears the wheel in will dip down ward until it passes the cut out of the base and both ends are flush on the base. That alone messes up the most important part of the sharpened edge.

The view of the wheel sharpening the blade is bad and the light doesn't help much.
I guess this is another case of "you get what you pay for" At the time I just couldn't see spending $1000. on a blade sharpener but now that changed. If my modifications get this thing to work good i will post pictures and a link for the grinding wheel.

I ended up clamping a thin piece of sheet metal to the base right up against the wheel and the "dip" problem is now solved. I am looking around for a better grinding wheel. I left a message over at Norton to see if they have anything.

[DLS1]

I got the 88-023 about a month ago and I don't understand why it was designed with the dip problem. Other than that I like the sharpener. Huge difference from a bench grinder and I notice the grass cut looks better . I like your idea about small piece of metal clamped to the base to solve the dip problem.

If you start looking for something better if a product is not 100% the way you like it then you will be buying different cars,trucks,mowers, etc.

Nothing is perfect. Thats why they always come out with a new and improved product.

[KathysLGC]

So you too have the dip problem? I had the same attitude you have. I loved it when i first got it because i didn't know any better and never had a blade grinder or bench grinder. I would always bring my blades in to get sharpened at $6. a blade and it wasn't even a good job.

The metal plate i put on covers the complete platform. I dropped my digi cam so I'll see if i can find my ole ladies 2.1MP digi cam and show you what i did. It made a huge difference but I think I am going to try plexi glass or some form of plastic to allow the blade to slide easier. I sprayed Pam on the metal and blade slid real nice while sharpening.

[DLS1]

I sprayed Pam on the metal and blade slid real nice while sharpening.

Your just full of good ideas. Plexiglass also sounds like a good idea. I can't wait to see your pictures so I can setup whatever you are doing.

[KathysLGC]

Well I took the pics but her dam camera keeps giving me a "disk is not formated" error when I try to upload it to my pc.
I'll see if I can update the driver.

[jutoyz]

Plexiglass and most plastics will melt easily. I used quarter inch nylon sheet stock,cut a notch in the center of one end the width of the stone and about one inch deep so the sheet actually goes part way around the stone. Then before I secured the sheet down I adjusted the height of the stone to be 30 degrees with it just touching the sheet. That way as the stone wears you just lower it intil it just touches the sheet and you have your 30 degrees back. The 80-023 manual says to run the motor forward but I run mine in reverse so it cuts from the bottom up, that way the stone doesn't dig into the blade causing burns.

[DLS1]

The 80-023 manual says to run the motor forward but I run mine in reverse so it cuts from the bottom up, that way the stone doesn't dig into the blade causing burns.

Doesn't that throw a lot of metal shavings at you?

[KathysLGC]

Where do you get the nylon stock? I was also thinking of going with a 7" grinding wheel instead of the stock 8" wheel to see if that would slow the wheel down a bit. The stock wheel just doesn't cut the metal fast enough and when I have a nick in the blade you can forget about trying to get it out.

[KathysLGC]

Doesn't that throw a lot of metal shavings at you?

I'm sure it does but with safety glasses on ou should be ok. Might get a bit dirty tho. I stand on the side so i can get a better view.

[Runner]

Actually, these grinder are DESIGNED to be operated from the side. Fou put the blade in apply it to the wheel, and pull it out. You should do this rapidly and keep the blade moving rather fast to avoid burning. Most people move the blade too slow like on a benchgrinder. It should only take aboput 2 seconds to move over the blade. You just do this several times on each end. About 5 to 7 strokes, then alternate will help keep the blade cooler longer. Hint: Count your strokes to match on both sides so your balance will stay close.

[KathysLGC]

Actually, these grinder are DESIGNED to be operated from the side. Fou put the blade in apply it to the wheel, and pull it out. You should do this rapidly and keep the blade moving rather fast to avoid burning. Most people move the blade too slow like on a benchgrinder. It should only take aboput 2 seconds to move over the blade. You just do this several times on each end. About 5 to 7 strokes, then alternate will help keep the blade cooler longer. Hint: Count your strokes to match on both sides so your balance will stay close.

That's how I sharpen my blades. It just doesn't remove enough metal. It some times takes me 5 minutes to do one blade.

[Runner]

Try your dresser a little more, and stay away from the water. This just lubes ot too much and once you get moisture in that wheel, it just doesn't work as well. Just alernate ends and even whole blades to help keep them cool. How often are you sharpening them? You must be taking more than just a little bit off to sharpen them. I only have to do about 8-12 strokes with my little Neary grinder, and I don't think that's even as big as your grinder is. I hope this helps.

[KathysLGC]

I use the dresser alot. I just think the grinding wheel isn't made for blades. It seems as if it's more for tools or filing. I go by how hot the blade feels on my hands and I switch to another blade to keep them cool. I cycle them. Blade one gets about 4-5 strokes each side then blade 2, blade 3 and I start back at blade one.

Keeping the edge when sharpened properly isn't too bad but with the dip I found myself trying to hard to keep the blade level near the tip and would end up messing the edge up near the tip. The first 2" of the blade is the hardest to get right. Since i put a piece of metal over the base that is no longer a problem.

If a blade gets a nick tho,.... it will take me 30 minutes to get it out because I have to let the blade cool down. It was like this from day one.

[adam71234]

This is the post I've been looking for. I am about to purchase a blade grinder, but, of course, need to find the right one for me. We will sharpen only about 10-15 blades per week. This amount will probably grow eventually.

I figured there would be problems with the .5 HP grinders, mainly the inability to grind out nicks. We have heavy blades that will be sharpened every 8-10 hours, but we do have nicks on blades.

I am looking at the $250-$400 range .5 HP grinders all the way up to the $1000 magna-matic. I just need to have some more 1st hand input on the cheaper Oregon models, RBG, and others before deciding.

I feel like I will end up in the $600 range. But then what?? The bigger Oregon, the 1hp RBG, or the smaller magna-matic.

Any more input or testimonials would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam