fertilizing 34-0-0

[jasonp]

Has anyone ever used just straight 34-0-0 to fertilize a lawn? I have heard of people using it for a fast greenup time on dormant grass.

[Davis TLC]

I don't use it myself, but I know a few people who have. The only problem is rapid growth from all that Nitrogen you are putting down. It is all available at one time. Get ready to mow like crazy. And yes you will get fast green up using it. I prefer to use a slow release balanced turf fertilizer, I get great green up and prolonged controlled growth from the SCU.

[powerreel]

I feed roots, I use 18-3-18 with 8% IBDU and minors

[joshua]

my last time i did i used a 12-12-12 and mixed it with 21-3-6. in the spring the grass gets enough nitrogen from all the rain, maybe in the summer during a drought but i would want something like 31-3-6 so it helps out the roots to.

[KirbysLawn]

I use 19-3-6, to much N will can lead to fungus problems when it gets warmer.

[lawrence stone]

Originally posted by joshua
in the spring the grass gets enough nitrogen from all the rain,


That's funny I don't know of any turfgrass being
leguminous.

[joshua]

[/B][/QUOTE]

That's funny I don't know of any turfgrass being
leguminous.

[/B][/QUOTE]

ok stone, you got me grass doesn't belong to the bean family, i hoep you know what i meant by geting enough rain....

[4 Saisons]

This kind of fertilizer are usually use 24/48hrs before a special day to get a perfect dark green grass. only use it on a healthy grass. be careful, too much of this and you will burn and kill the grass.

[Mowin4cash]

Guys, what about slow release with IRON???? That way you get the color without the fast growth.



Mike

[Davis TLC]

The slow release fertilizers I use have Iron in them. It does help with greenup and it also gives the grass a darker green color.

[CMerLand]

Take this with a sense of humor and to educate those who may not know this:

Okay all of you, back to fertilizer school!!! The numbers on the bag mean nothing other then the percentage of NPK in the bag before you spread it. What matters to turfgrass as far as nitrogen is the amount of N per 1,000 sq ft your putting down and the percentage of that which is slow release within that mixture

For the sake of argument lets all assume we are using 50lb bags, all using urea, none with slow release for this example. Whether you are using 34-0-0, or 24-5-11 or 19-3-6 or 15-0-5 it is irrelavent without knowing the area thats to be covered. If your goal is 1 lb of N per 1,000 sq ft then:

the 34-0-0 will cover 17,000 square feet (2.94 lbs product)
the 24-5-11 will cover 12,000 square feet(4.17 lbs product)
the 19-3-6 will cover 9,500 square feet (5.26 lbs product)
the 12-12-12 will cover 6,000 square feet (8.33 lbs product)

Each of these examples then put down the exact same amount and type of Nitrogen over the turf area and the turf will respond exactly the same to the nitrogen in the bag. The only difference (excluding the P and K components) will be the amount of ferilizer you see flying out of the spreader and how often it has to be refilled. To treat a 100,000 sq ft you will need 5.88 bags of the 34-0-0 but need 16.67 bags of the 12-12-12.

Okay then to go the other way with it lets say that your each buying your 50 lb bag of material for the same 10,000 square foot lot.

In that case:

the 34-0-0 puts down 1.7 lbs N per 1,000
the 24-5-11 puts down 1.2 lbs N per 1,000
the 19-3-6 puts down .95 lbs N per 1,000
the 12-12-12 puts down .60 lbs N per 1,000

Obviously proper calibration and knowing the amount of N your looking to put down and the size of the area are the keys to this formula. Putting down 1.7 lbs of N is way too much and will reek havoc on the turfgrass. Putting down only .60 lbs N may not be enough to provide the quick greenup your clients expect.

But proper fertilization requires much more then saying I use **-**-** fertilizer.

If any additional explanation is needed post your questions here.

CMerLand

[jeffyr]

CMerLand,

Good post.
That is what I have always understood as well. The numbers mean nothing if the applicator does not pay attention to how much they are applying.

[Mr.Ziffel]

CMerLand, great post. I have been told that the type or source of Nitrogen is also important as to the way it affects lawn color and characteristics. The information I have shows that the amount of fertilizer material needed to provide one pound of N is:

Ammonium sulfate 5 pounds of material for 1 lb. of N
Ammonium nitrate 3 pounds of material for 1 lb. of N
Urea Formaldehyde 2.6 pounds of material for 1 lb. of N
Urea 2.2 pounds of material for 1 lb. of N


The question I have for you is what are the different characteristics of each type of Nitrogen source and what are their advantages and disadvantages?

[JOshua Gallerick]

urea release mechanism is water, temp and microbial
ammonia sulfate release mechanism is water, moderate temp
ammonia nitrate release mechanism is water, low temp

the disadvantages and advantages depend on your climate location. I think this is right.

[JOshua Gallerick]

i forgot nitrate nitrogen works better in cooler months

[Mid Rivers]

Cmerland,
For those of us that are not the Genius that stone is I thank you. I visit this site to get information and often times have to read Stone's smarta$$ comments. Replies like yours are appreciated.

Someday we can all be-little others like Larry does and feel much bigger after doing so.

[Edited by Mid Rivers on 03-22-2001 at 09:31 PM]

[luckylawnboy]

Let me say That you all need to do some reading up on your N applications. First of all one thing everyone must know is that you want to apply 65% to 100% of your N in the fall for for Season Grasses, and for Warm Season grasses apply in spring and Summer only.

Okay I recomend appling .5lb of N/1000 in the spring. first application. But What do all of use put down also at this time?? Pre Emegance. And if you Do not fallow the recommended rates then your Pre Emgance product will not work.

Too Much N applied in the fall will lead to excessive Leaf growth and less Root Growth. Why do so many people do this in the spring when all they are really doing is weaking the root right before Summer Stress.

We need to ask for Pre Emegant products with less N or if there is no history of Crab grass then don't apply it.

Here is an Equation for correctly calculating lbs of N/1000 for an analisys on a bag.


If you want .5 lb of N/1000 of 34-0-0

.5 N/1000
------------ = 1.47 0r 1.5 lb of 34-0-0 per 1000sq ft
.34(34-0-0)

[Edited by luckylawnboy on 03-22-2001 at 11:34 PM]