irrigation addition

[bjlawnman]

Next spring i am going to be finishing off my sprinkler system. We moved into and existing home with a yard and found out when they put in the yard they didnt have enough money to put in the whole sprinkler system so they did only half of the yard. my question is I found the main-line and i was wondering is all I have to do is put a T in it and then bring the main line to the other part of the yard where the valve box is going to be?
any help or input would be greatly appreciated
thank a lot
bj

[Dirty Water]

www.irrigationtutorials.com

Read this site. Its a good place to start.

[PurpHaze]

Basically that's all you have to do in order to add a valve(s) onto an existing main line. If it's an automatic system then you will also need to have the wiring extended to wherever you decide to place the new valve(s). Depending on how your site looks you could also get away with installing the new valve(s) right at the existing main line and then carrying the lateral lines to the area to be watered.

You note that I indicate valve(s) above. Without designing out the new area, knowing what size main line you have, what the pressure is and what type of sprinklers (including nozzles) will determine if you can water the new area with only one valve or not.

[sprinklerhead]

You could also use an existing sprinkler line if you feel like capping off sprinkler heads, if you dont want to run into any existing lines while trenching. Just remove the diaphram out of the valve you want to cap off find the end and coupling onto there!and install your manifold/valves pull lines from there!

[Dirty Water]

You could also use an existing sprinkler line if you feel like capping off sprinkler heads, if you dont want to run into any existing lines while trenching. Just remove the diaphram out of the valve you want to cap off find the end and coupling onto there!and install your manifold/valves pull lines from there!

That only works if the original installer ran a decent sized sprinkler line the whole way.

I'm somewhat oldschool, so my sprinkler lines start at mainline size, and by the last head are 3/4".

[PurpHaze]

You could also use an existing sprinkler line if you feel like capping off sprinkler heads, if you dont want to run into any existing lines while trenching. Just remove the diaphram out of the valve you want to cap off find the end and coupling onto there!and install your manifold/valves pull lines from there!

I think I'm following your train of thought but I can't agree. If this is a viable valve and zone why would you want to basically abandon this zone and turn the main lateral into the main line? You're still going to need to run wiring to the new valve(s) and you'll incur some PSI loss through the abandoned valve. You'll also lose the existing zone.

Depending on how the existing zone is configured and how many sprinklers it will take to cover the new area there is always the possibility of extending the existing zone. But that will depend on a lot of "ifs" and is not for the feint of heart.

[Wet_Boots]

Every now and then, you can expand a system by 'stealing' a zone line, or even two zone lines, using one of them as a sleeve to carry wire. I remember one addition done that way, when the original system had three zones crossing under some pavers that were best left undisturbed, so a new valve box was located in the lawn area, instead of near the house.

[PurpHaze]

Every now and then, you can expand a system by 'stealing' a zone line, or even two zone lines, using one of them as a sleeve to carry wire. I remember one addition done that way, when the original system had three zones crossing under some pavers that were best left undisturbed, so a new valve box was located in the lawn area, instead of near the house.

Only time I've done this is on a baseball field where we were totally re-doing two zones between the field and the street. They had two old valves in a concrete area next to one of the dugouts that was a jumble of galvanized pipes prone to leaking. Took our jackhammer and busted everything out and dug up the area. Cut out the leaking areas of galvanized pipe, re-threaded it and started a new PVC main line off it. I used one of the 1-1/2" PVC laterals (went under 10' of concrete) to continue the main and one for the wire. Was able to set a QCV for washing off the bleachers and then set two new valves in the grass. Area looks great now with grass and trees for spectators. They did lose a hose bibb that came off the old main in the concrete area but gained the QCV.

[PurpHaze]

Boots... Didn't want you to think this was a totally bad idea. Just that all the ramifications have to be taken into account. Someone not knowing what they're doing can destroy one zone to build another if they're not careful.

[sprinklerhead]

I think I'm following your train of thought but I can't agree. If this is a viable valve and zone why would you want to basically abandon this zone and turn the main lateral into the main line? You're still going to need to run wiring to the new valve(s) and you'll incur some PSI loss through the abandoned valve. You'll also lose the existing zone.

Depending on how the existing zone is configured and how many sprinklers it will take to cover the new area there is always the possibility of extending the existing zone. But that will depend on a lot of "ifs" and is not for the feint of heart.

It doesn't kill the psi that much to hurt the system, when we do that we use the automated controlled hunter valves each valve solenoid has a timer that operates like the hunter src contorller it works great! no wires needed ,we did this in a couple areas were they had a very large built in pool and we didn't want to take the chance of hitting the pool lines from the underground filter and gas heater. worked great didnt notice a pressure drop. the main 1" tested @50 psi were we connected the new manifolds. We ran 6 zones from there.

[PurpHaze]

It doesn't kill the psi that much to hurt the system, when we do that we use the automated controlled hunter valves each valve solenoid has a timer that operates like the hunter src contorller it works great! no wires needed ,we did this in a couple areas were they had a very large built in pool and we didn't want to take the chance of hitting the pool lines from the underground filter and gas heater. worked great didnt notice a pressure drop. the main 1" tested @50 psi were we connected the new manifolds. We ran 6 zones from there.

We've tried all types of batter operated in-box controllers before with varying success. Of course our criteria is different than with true commercial ventures. We always try to expand a current controller or set a totally new controller in an expansion area. However, this doesn't always work depending on how isolated the expansion area is. We've tried the Rain Bird TBOS systems but two factors have been noted: (1) you still have to open the box to connect the infrared connector and (2) the after market low voltage solenoids are a piece of junk and are very prone to sticking and /or allowing weep-by of the valve.

We've switched one area to Hunter ICV valves and the WVC system. So far it's doing a great job. The convenience of being able to fire the stations with the remote is a real plus. We're planning on putting in a totally new system on a baseball field at one of our middle schools. The backstop/concession area has been locked in with much concrete over the years and the reliability of the original controller and wiring is greatly suspect. Our plan is to install two four station WVCs for the eight anticipated valves.

[bjlawnman]

i am going to be using all hunter parts my the installation. what hunter valves would you reccomend? i was looking at the hunter pgv jar top ones. they look pretty easy to service.

[PurpHaze]

i am going to be using all hunter parts my the installation. what hunter valves would you reccomend? i was looking at the hunter pgv jar top ones. they look pretty easy to service.

I've never used them, just the ICV on rare occasions. However, you might want to wait and see what the "cold weather" guys have to say about jar tops. I think a couple of them have stated that there's potential problems with them in the colder climes. But, then again, I've aged a day and might not be remembering too well. :dizzy:

[PurpHaze]

Correction: did a search and the problem wasn't with cold weather, rather with high pressure. :cry:

[bjlawnman]

I've never used them, just the ICV on rare occasions. However, you might want to wait and see what the "cold weather" guys have to say about jar tops. I think a couple of them have stated that there's potential problems with them in the colder climes. But, then again, I've aged a day and might not be remembering too well. :dizzy:
thanks for your input i'll have to wait and see what the cold guys say lol. is there anyone on this website in the irrigation part from the illinios area?

[PurpHaze]

thanks for your input i'll have to wait and see what the cold guys say lol. is there anyone on this website in the irrigation part from the illinios area?

I know there are IL landscapers that also do irrigation that visit this forum. There's also a couple of other primarily irrigators from the midwest that are regulars.

[sprinklerhead]

I have used both rainbird jar tops which kinda suck under high pressure and cold blow outs these are the worst come winterizing season when the homwowner isnt around and you have to use the valve to trun on the system.they stay turned on which you have to !@# with to make them stop.

Hunter Pgv valve are awesome!! used thousands of them very few problems.
when you take them a part and put them back together everything stay in line.you can't screw up. Hunter is overall way better product.I have never had a stick valve cold or high pressure! they have came along way since the early days!