View Full Version : Help Needed with Brick Saw
11-30-2005, 08:54 PM
Hey guys, I have a MK Brick saw that I have a problem with. I keep tripping the breaker on my clients house. We are plugging into a regular outside outlet on thier porch. Today we had to bring in a generator for the day to supply power becuase no one was home. Not to familiar with this saw yet beucase I just got it. Any tips or suggestions? Any help is greatly apreciated!
11-30-2005, 09:04 PM
Your saw is drawing too much juice at start up. Try and plug into a kitchen outlet or the washing machine outlet.As long as the house isn't too old those should be 20 amp breakers. Also make sure you are using a #12 gauge extension cord
11-30-2005, 09:16 PM
We have the MK-3 Brick extreme electric saw. We trip breakers sometimes too. You have to be a little more patient and let the saw do the work. If you try to "push" it through it will get caught up and trip the breaker. Also, check your blade for excessive wear. If your blade is dull it will trip more often. We made a "breaker" of our own that we plug into the outlet and it trips before the house does, so we don't have to worry about the owners not being home. We also have a couple of cut-off saws that we can use in a pinch.
11-30-2005, 10:50 PM
I second what Chris said. You can hear the differnece when the saw is spinning freely (doing the work), and you can hear when it is bogging (you pushing it too hard). I have also found that for longer cuts, back off halfway through, let the saw run freely for a second or two, then continue. I also highly recommend the 12 GA cord, we used a 14 for a long time until one day I was cleaning up and noticed how hot it was after sitting in the shade all day.
11-30-2005, 11:24 PM
I made an extension cord myself 10 gage, no more than 25' long. I also try and plug in as close to the main panel as possible. I have a target diamond blade saw, in talking with a good friend (electrician) he advised me on making the extension cord and plugging in as close to main panel as possible, he also mentioned the possibility of having to open the panel door and run an old box fan on the panel to help keep it cool. As he explained it to me the trick is to be as close to the power source as possible, hence no longer than 25' of drop cord, and which outlet to try and use.
12-01-2005, 08:11 PM
Hey thanks for the tips guys, I finished out the job with the generator powering the saw. The second I flicked the saw on when my guy plugged it into the outside socket it tripped. Im thinking about just getting a 5000+ watt generator. Would be easier I think then hasseling the client to run a cord to thier main pannel. Any one else have a set up like this? .
12-01-2005, 08:44 PM
For the headache of 2 pieces of equipment, why don't you buy a gas saw? I am just curious. During the winter I build decks for a guy and we have to lug the generator everywhere for our compressor, at first I loved the thing but I turned to a gas compressor. Carrying 2 pieces stinks.
Just my .02.
12-01-2005, 09:33 PM
Go into the load center and wire an inline 30 amp beaker directly then plug into it.
Better yet, yank off the electric motor and install a GX 160 Hondawith a pre cleaner intake. You won't trip anymore breakers I gaurantee!
12-01-2005, 09:55 PM
The gas saw is in the works for next year. Couldnt pass up the deal on this saw tho, bought it for 200 dollars, all it needed was a new blade. You can bolt a honda motor right up to this saw right? Might be my next option. I previously used to rent an edco gas block and brick saw, but it was rediculously heavy to get off the truck by myself, thats the one bounus I saw in electric, the portability. And it is easier to just flip a switch to get it running then having to start the motor up. Ah well this should be the last job of the season, time to get ready for the snow and the time off to relax. Thanks guys.
12-01-2005, 10:20 PM
The motor mount should be the same pattern as an engine mount. I'll tell you what would be great if someone could come up with it. Have a system where with 4 pins using clip rings, the engine was locked down., Then a bayonet style pressure lock where by the flip of a small lever, the belt would tension and the saw would be ready to rock.
that way you could put a carry handle on the engine, remove it during transport and attach it rather quickly thus lightening the load of the saw.
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