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Squizzy246B
12-30-2005, 07:44 AM
We purchased this trailer about 6 weeks ago and have been busy as a blowfly ever since. Today was the first chance we have had to get it ready for work in the new year. For the technically minded the bed is 23' 6" long and max width at 8' 2". We really needed a trailer to shift the skid and all our attachments including the rockbreaker and block lifting gear for the excavator. Its bigger than we planned but it wont go to waste.

Current rolling/load capacity is limited by the hitch at 7,700lbs but we are getting that up to 10,000 shortly. I went to order a Hook/Ball & Pintle only to find it was going to take 4 weeks to get one and cost nearly $500 Aus. A trip to the truck wreckers found a 8 ton HBP hitch for $100 and I scored a 5 wire 24 to 12 volt step down as well for $20.

Sorry about all the junk on the deck. Also for those enduring less than favourable climes...Please note blue sky and sunshine:p

Squizzy246B
12-31-2005, 07:36 PM
So anyway, we got the trailer for $5.5K which is good because it would have cost well over $20K to get one built. Its two years old (technically). The chasis and bed is off a flat bed truck so it would be good for at least 22,000lbs. However the guy who built it only needed to haul his drag car and some stuff so he only put 14" wheels with 3300lb axles. The ball coupling is also only good for 7700lbs.

Now this trailer has electric brakes on all three axles as well as the electric breakaway system which is mandatory on all trailers over 4400lbs. Our Mitsuibishi 9 tonner (20,000lb payload) is all 24 volt. My initial thought was to just change the trailer light bulbs to 24 volt and we are away. However, the braking system is also 12 volt:confused: .

So, Step 1 was to get the lights sorted. As mentioned above, when I was at the truck yard getting the Hook and Pintle hitch I spotted a 24/12 step down unit fitted on a wrecked truck so I grabbed that, $20 for a $160 pice of kit and it works!. Climbed under the back of the truck and looked at spagetti junction:dizzy: . Did about 10 minutes with the test meter then chop chop chop with the wire cutters and started again. (The truck is ex-municipal council).

Rewired the number plate light, reversing alarm, fitted the step down and ran new wires to the trailer plug. Tested everything and hooked it up to the tools trailer which has dual voltage LED lights. At first it worked fine then the LED's started to get dim and not work. Testing under load showed 8 volts??..so I thought the 2nd Hand step down was junk. Then I hooked it up to the new trailer which has all filament bulbs and it holds 12.8 volts and everything works. (mental note about step downs and LED's which run up to 24volt).

Step 2 - will be to fit the HBP hitch to the truck (as recommended by UNISCAPER) and fit the 3" ring to the trailer.

Step 3 - will be to fit a combined step down power supply and brake controller in the truck cab. This is the one I'm looking at:

http://www.redarc.com.au/eb24a.pdf

Then I suppose after that it will go to the DOT to get the GVM uprated, then it will need a tool box or three, racks for gear, fuel tank for the skid, tie down chains etc etc:) . I forgot to mention, the trailer has a 26 (US) gallon stainless steel water tank mounted under the back.

I think it will be worth it. The bug bear is that the GVM is limited by the wheels and axles. It may be worth replacing them with something more substantial in the future but when we go over 10,000lbs air brakes are mandatory which will mean half the time and money I'm expending now will be wasted...:confused: but we will see.

Squizzy246B
01-01-2006, 08:47 AM
Awww..somebody could at least pretend they are interested:rolleyes:

You could say "POS trailer Squizzy" or "nice trailer Squizzy shame about the owner" Maybe "why don't you put a merry-go-round on it so you can have the whole travelling circus"

We are all excited about it???:confused:

:) :) :) :)

Lazer_Z
01-01-2006, 09:48 AM
Sorry Squizzy I normally read more than I post but it seems to me you got a good deal on the trailer and you only had to put a little work into it to make it right. I have a question you said once over 10K vehicle weight you need air brakes correct? Now will that require you to have a CDL? & is the weight rating TOTAL weight or what? The reason I ask is because here in the States it's 26,001lbs or more then you need air brakes and a class A CDL.

Rob

Squizzy246B
01-01-2006, 10:03 AM
Now will that require you to have a CDL? & is the weight rating TOTAL weight or what? The reason I ask is because here in the States it's 26,001lbs or more then you need air brakes and a class A CDL.

You got me there, whats a CDL?. I must admit I have trouble keeping up with the regs as they are changing here to try and have national regulations rather than different between each state. GVM is Gross Vehicular Mass or Total weight. We used to have just Tare = kerbside weight unladen, Aggregate = Total Payload and Gross = Tare + Aggregate or GVM.

No need to apologise I was just stirring a little :blush: ... but thanks for the reply:)

Lazer_Z
01-01-2006, 10:20 AM
CDL= Commercial Drivers License. Here in the states as I said anything with a weight of 26,001lb or more needs one of these. Do things differ in Australia?

Rob

Squizzy246B
01-01-2006, 10:28 AM
CDL= Commercial Drivers License. Here in the states as I said anything with a weight of 26,001lb or more needs one of these. Do things differ in Australia?

Rob

Yep - I have a MR (Medium Rigid) License, thats for two axles (on the truck) and load not exceeding the GCM (Gross Combination Mass i.e. tow vehicle + trailer) of the tow vehicle. I think the GCM of our Mitsi is about 52,000 lbs. To go heavier that would be a HR. See the link:

http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/licensing/mylicence/1373.asp

Lazer_Z
01-01-2006, 10:59 AM
It's basically the same thing as here in the States just worded differently. This may be a dumb question but do you have ramps for the trailer so that you can get your skid on it? The reason I ask is because I did'nt see anything in the pics. Now after you get everything rigged the way you need you need to get some pics of the whole rig loaded out.

Rob

Squizzy246B
01-01-2006, 11:02 AM
We do have portable ramps for the truck but spring loaded fold-ups will be another item for the trailer to-do list.

Lazer_Z
01-01-2006, 11:12 AM
Man your to-do list just keeps getting longer and longer does'nt it. Good luck with it Squizzy.

Rob

South Florida Lawns
01-01-2006, 12:51 PM
I know you will put that trailer to good use.

Especially after seeing you other post in the hardscapes forum. With all the tools and machinery you have looks like a perfect addition.

The only thing that would make loading and unloading easier is if it had a 5ft dove tail and some fold down ramps.

Squizzy246B
01-01-2006, 06:42 PM
Man your to-do list just keeps getting longer and longer does'nt it. Good luck with it Squizzy.

Yep.

I know you will put that trailer to good use.

Especially after seeing you other post in the hardscapes forum. With all the tools and machinery you have looks like a perfect addition.

The only thing that would make loading and unloading easier is if it had a 5ft dove tail and some fold down ramps.

We did discuss dove tailing this trailer and I think that will be the way to go. In the future I'd like to change to 2 x 16" axle groups, 825 x 16" 14 ply tyres and with air brakes. This will raise the deck about 4" so dove tailing will be very handy. This will lake the total weight capacity up to about 17,000 lbs. Its only money.:)

Trailers are like sheds, it doesn't matter how big you make them you can always put more junk in/on them. Anyway, not having a trailer for the skid was costing us time and money. Can't wait to get it into use. I will post some pic's when its loaded.

South Florida Lawns
01-01-2006, 08:29 PM
Its a good idea to have only 2 axles, backs up better.

You should shorten the axle width and put on a dual wheel conversion kit.

My friend has a trailer with tandem axles and dual 16'' wheels. He likes it a lot and never has to worry about overloading the trailer.

You have a great platform to work with since you said the deck has a 22,000lb capacity, a good match for your truck.

Squizzy246B
01-01-2006, 11:14 PM
Its a good idea to have only 2 axles, backs up better.

You should shorten the axle width and put on a dual wheel conversion kit.


Hmmm..now thats an idea that I liked because running with 14" duals would be cheap however its limited by the axles themselves and the requirement for spring brakes over 10,000.... food for thought though.

Gravel Rat
01-02-2006, 12:56 AM
From the pictures the trailers frame looks a little light what is the frame constructed out of ?

When you put the skid steer on it do you get alot of deflection on the reach of the trailer ?

I also agree a tandem axle is better than triaxle its easier on tires and it is easier to get better weight distribution so the hitch is getting enough weight.

Squizzy246B
01-02-2006, 01:54 AM
The chassis is pretty standard for a tray top, have a look at the third pic. The drawbar is probably a little lighter than I would have built it but there is no detectable deflection with the 246B at 3500kgs. I have some heavy channel which I may run up the middle to the hitch later on if it looks like its struggling.

The standard jockey wheel is workin overtime though:eek:

Squizzy246B
01-05-2006, 07:55 AM
If we start carrying anymore gear around I'm going to have to get a Road Train license!

Gravel Rat
01-05-2006, 06:48 PM
You got a pretty good jag on that poor dump truck a skid in the box and a trailer behind.

YardPro
01-07-2006, 02:20 AM
trailer looks kinda hokey...
the drawbar is way too light duity...and it it the front frame of the trailer as well............

and you still have less than 10K gvw with those axles....

$20K to have one built???? prices must be really different there..
we just bought a brand new 7.5X20 14GVW equipment trailer with metal dovetail, dual brakes, brakeaway, new load e tires, adjustable coupler, powder coated frame.. etc.. all for $2900.00

Squizzy246B
01-07-2006, 07:26 AM
trailer looks kinda hokey...
the drawbar is way too light duity...and it it the front frame of the trailer as well............

and you still have less than 10K gvw with those axles....

$20K to have one built???? prices must be really different there..
we just bought a brand new 7.5X20 14GVW equipment trailer with metal dovetail, dual brakes, brakeaway, new load e tires, adjustable coupler, powder coated frame.. etc.. all for $2900.00

You are looking at the pic's in the first post not the ones with the mini ex aren't you?. You can barely get a dual axle 8' x 5' galvanised with brakes down here for that money. I have noticed how much cheaper you guys talk on trailers.

The draw is not the front frame of the trailer. The frame has 4 longitudinal channels, 5" x 2" x 1/4" and the drawbars are the same. I'm sorry if the pic's don't show this but if you look carefully you can see the ends of the frames in the pic's. There is a intermediate subframe at the front and 3" x 2" x 5/16" intercostal angles welded between the longitudinals and to the deck. I have calculated the shear force on the drawbar with 18'000 lbs evenly distributed and its adequate for the sectional modulus. I will however fit some more bracing to reduce fatigue as the weld itself forms a node. I put the tape measure on this trailer today and its actually almost 24' long. It looks a lot smaller in the pic's because its behind the 9 tonner.

The bloody axles are the problem but I have a cunning plan!. You see the 15" wheels and axles on my other trailer are good for 4000lbs per axle. I only need one more axle set to get to 12,000 lbs...however...thats air brake territory...so...oh I dunno..it will be good go in the mean time. We didn't need a trailer this big nor do we need to uprate it except for the hitch. But rubbish at auction was bringing $11,000.00 Aud and it wasn't in the best condition. The best deal I could get in Australia was a 14' at 9200lbs for $14K and that my friend was out of Melbourne which about 2600 miles East of me.

YardPro
01-07-2006, 08:44 AM
wow...
those are some high trailer prices...

guess it is more well built than it appears in the pic.

the construction of the trailer looks very different than what we use here, so i guess that's what is throwing me off....

Squizzy246B
01-07-2006, 09:11 AM
wow...
those are some high trailer prices...

guess it is more well built than it appears in the pic.

the construction of the trailer looks very different than what we use here, so i guess that's what is throwing me off....

Its a flat bed off a Truck with some axles stuck underneath it:cool:

Squizzy246B
01-14-2006, 06:36 PM
I know I know...told you so.:blush:

One of my guys ran the truck and trailer into our local hire place to drop off a compactor. The entry has a steep ramp, truck was down and the ar*e end of the trailer picked up on the ramp placing all the load on the hitch. We had 4400lbs of cement and heaps of other gear loaded forward. The channel drawbars bent where they were welded which was the area I was concerned about forming a hard node.

It looks like Daffy Duck after an uppercut:)

Well, it only bent up about 1 1/2" at the hitch. I ran it into one of our local trailer builders and he is going to run a big channel up the middle and brace it properly for the 16,000 lb setup it will eventually be.

The annoying thing is I must have looked at it about 15 times (where the drawbars where welded) and thought "I must brace that properly"...Oh well...more the fool me.

Before we bent it we did two trips up to a site, about an hour each way, with the skid and all our wall building gear, and it really towed well. I hav fitted the 20,000 lb pintle hitch on the drawbar and ordered a proper wind up stand jack.

Next is some fold up spring loaded ramps. Luckily we don't need the trailer until next friday.