Kawasaki ATV servicing question?

[mkwl]

Allright guys, I've got a question for you. I just bought a new 2006 Kawasaki 360 4x4 ATV w/winch and plow a few weeks ago. In my owners manual it said to change all the oils (engine and both gear cases/differentials), and oil filter after the first 10 hrs. I called my local dealer today, to ask how much they would charge for the initial servicing and they wanted about $250! They also said that it isn't good to change the gear case/differential oil:dizzy: . So my question is, how hard is it to do the initial servicing? Can I do it myself, or should I take it to them (for $250)? Also, what exactly do you guys recommend doing for the initial servicing? Thanks in advance,
Matt

[lawnmaniac883]

Not sure about ATV's as I have never serviced one, but on trucks, the servicing of differentials is a snap. Check and see if there is a drain plug on your diffs, if not, then pick up the proper gaskets from your dealer, remove the cover(s), reinstall covers, fill with fluid and your done. Very simple to do unless there is limited space.

[mkwl]

Thanks, anyone else (have an ATV/done ATV servicing)?

[Jason Rose]

That's a new one on me about the differential... I had mine about a year and all I did was change the oil after like 5 hours (mine had a odometer, so it was to be after so many miles). I read my manual throughly and don't recall anything about the gear boxes other than checking the fluid levels. (suzuki)

Most ATV's are not the most user friendly to service vehicles out there! Many have paper oil filters that you have to remove a little trap door, replace an o-ring and the paper element inside, and a lot of times there are skid plates and such in the way of the oil drain that have to be removed. Granted it's NOT $250 worth of work! Heck When I bought mine I got a coupon in the mail for the first service FREE. I never used it though since it was an hour drive to the dealer...

[mattfromNY]

congrats on the purchase, the Kawi's are a nice little machine.I work at a dealership in upstate NY, we sell Honda's, but most of the machines are really similar. Most of the time, the initial oil change around 100 miles, just involves changing the engine oil and filter (get the "break-in" oil out of the motor). Lube the cables, check for loose lugnuts, steering parts, etc. Check with your owners manual for the services schedule for the other lubricants (diff. oils, coolant, etc) Most of the time, these do not need to be changed for several hundred miles. $250 sounds high just for an oil change, sometimes dealers will charge that much for a "first service", this usually includes a valve-adjustment in the motor, along with all the other stuff mentioned. This is something that needs to be done to keep the engine running smooth, and usually done at the dealership so they have a maintanence record for your machine. The OEM's just love to threaten that we wont get paid for a warranty claim if we dont have a record of major services done to the machine. If you didnt buy extended warranty, IMO its a good idea to pick it up before your factory warranty runs out... you probably wont use it, but now a days, with hourly shop rates running into the $70/ hour range, it pays for itself with one service...
I've babbled enough, just wanted to give my .02

[mattfromNY]

I forgot to add too, when you run your winch a bunch with the plow... take the plow off periodically, and pull the winch cable all the way out, hook the end to a pole, or a tree or something, then run it back in with some drag (hold the brakes on a little)... this will re-wind the cable and prevent the cable from turning into a "birds nest", If the cable builds up too much on one side or the other, it can pop the winch apart. Just something that too many dealers dont stress, and winch's are hard to get warranty done on.

[mkwl]

congrats on the purchase, the Kawi's are a nice little machine.I work at a dealership in upstate NY, we sell Honda's, but most of the machines are really similar. Most of the time, the initial oil change around 100 miles, just involves changing the engine oil and filter (get the "break-in" oil out of the motor). Lube the cables, check for loose lugnuts, steering parts, etc. Check with your owners manual for the services schedule for the other lubricants (diff. oils, coolant, etc) Most of the time, these do not need to be changed for several hundred miles. $250 sounds high just for an oil change, sometimes dealers will charge that much for a "first service", this usually includes a valve-adjustment in the motor, along with all the other stuff mentioned. This is something that needs to be done to keep the engine running smooth, and usually done at the dealership so they have a maintanence record for your machine. The OEM's just love to threaten that we wont get paid for a warranty claim if we dont have a record of major services done to the machine. If you didnt buy extended warranty, IMO its a good idea to pick it up before your factory warranty runs out... you probably wont use it, but now a days, with hourly shop rates running into the $70/ hour range, it pays for itself with one service...
I've babbled enough, just wanted to give my .02

I have the extended warranty, it didn't say anything in the manual about adjusting the valves until after the first 500 hrs. Do you think I could do the first servicing myself? Do you think I should change the gearbox oil?

[Jason Rose]

Where did you see about changing the gear box oil? Like matt said, I think it's a little unorthodox to change the lube in the gearbox this early.

[mkwl]

Where did you see about changing the gear box oil? Like matt said, I think it's a little unorthodox to change the lube in the gearbox this early.

In my manual, it said to change both of the gear box oils after the first 10Hrs, does it not need to be done? What do you guys do for your initial services?

[mattfromNY]

Dont worry about the diff. oils unless you see something to justify it... leaking oil, bad seal. Everything is sealed up, nothing can get in, nothing goes out. Leave it alone, check to see what your owners manual says. Change your own engine oil and filter, but use good oil... your owners manual will tell you to use specific oil (SE,SJ, etc.) check the oil container before you buy it to make sure it meets the requirements. Lube your cables, check for loose nuts and bolts, etc. The first service (valve adjust.) should be done by a technician, but you shouldn't have to do that for several hundred miles... My wheeler was 300 miles. (I've owned it two years and only have 200 on it) One more thing, the Kawasakis did have a recall on tie-rod ends, that should have been taken care of by now... maybe call and run your vin# with your dealer to double check.

[mattfromNY]

Sorry, I was typing when that last post was sent. I think if the owners manual says to change the diff. oils, then change them. They usually have a small (8 or 10mm) drain bolt in the bottom to drain and a filler hole to fill back up. Just make sure you use the right oil when you re-fill them. If there is a check hole for oil level, it'll be a piece of cake. If the owners manual says "use x amount ounces to re-fill" then you'd better make sure you get ALL of the old oil out before re-filling.

[mkwl]

Dont worry about the diff. oils unless you see something to justify it... leaking oil, bad seal. Everything is sealed up, nothing can get in, nothing goes out. Leave it alone, check to see what your owners manual says. Change your own engine oil and filter, but use good oil... your owners manual will tell you to use specific oil (SE,SJ, etc.) check the oil container before you buy it to make sure it meets the requirements. Lube your cables, check for loose nuts and bolts, etc. The first service (valve adjust.) should be done by a technician, but you shouldn't have to do that for several hundred miles... My wheeler was 300 miles. (I've owned it two years and only have 200 on it) One more thing, the Kawasakis did have a recall on tie-rod ends, that should have been taken care of by now... maybe call and run your vin# with your dealer to double check.

Thanks, I noticed that a little tiny bit of oil came oit of the rear diff. (not dripping, just a trace), is this okay? Also, my brakes squeak a little bit when I start driving, then goes away, is this normal?

[mattfromNY]

We get lots of calls from new ATV owners regarding "just a little spot of oil", usually you dont need to worry... when ATV's are crated, they are sprayed with a substance called cosmoline (I believe thats how to spell it), its a rust inhibitor, and usually for a little while when they are new, they will drip some off as you get the machine wet or wash it. Keep an eye on it, and if it persists, or looks like anything other than cooking oil, call your dealer. Most brake pads are semi-metallic, and the slightest bit of moisture will make them squeel a little, it generally goes away as the brakes warm up and burn off the moisture. Did anyone tell you to burnish your brake pads when the machine was new? typically you need to ride the machine a little with the brakes on just a little to clean off the new brake pads and rotors, drums, etc., when the machine is first ridden. (your dealer may have done this in his pre-delivery check over)

[lawnmaniac883]

Only reason to drain/refill diff fluid is to remove break-in metals. Cant personally imagine how much wear metal could come off of the gears in there. After all, they cant be too big, and I doubt it is a LSD, lol.

[mkwl]

What do you guys use to lift the ATV up, to get to the drain plugs, and oil filter? Responses needed!

[Redneckn]

I wouldn't think you'd need to change the diff oil that soon. but maybe. On my old Honda, I changed it about every 25 hours. But it spent about half of that 25 under water and in extreme mud. Better to change fluid than replace diff. I know!

Engine oil, whatever intervals they give unless you drive it extreme. On a Kawi, I have no clue where the drain plugs are. on the Honda, it's right underneath the engine.

I didnt lift it up to service it. But I had large tires on it. So it was a little lifted from that.

Other wise, when I did have to lift it for some reason, I have a 2Klb Winch mounted to a crossmember in my shop. But a hand winch (come-along) would work fine.

[mkwl]

I have about 4hrs on it now, should I wait to change the oil until it has 10hrs (like the manual says)?
Thanks,
Matt

[Restrorob]

I would suggest waiting till the 10hr. mark, Some of these units come with a break-in type oil in them. Polaris recommends their first oil change at 20hrs. Just follow your manual and everything should be just fine.

[JHugh]

I would say you should change the diff oil after about 50 hours. The gears are hard spiral cut gears. As they wear in to each other, some metal will be evident in the oil. It is also a good idea because some of the manufacturers use lower quality break-in oil. We all know the OEM's are cheap and love to save a nickel per unit.

[hole in one lco]

Go to your auto parts store and get the ramps it will pick it up enough for you to crawl around under it