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CrewCutEnterprises
02-04-2006, 06:42 PM
Here is a picture of what i have to work with, Sorry it is so hard to see its out of focus and now its dark outside.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-04-2006, 06:45 PM
I want it to look like this, its member ant knees truck, built like the just mowing trucks.

lawnrangeralaska
02-04-2006, 06:50 PM
I would want a 12 or 14 foot dove tail not a lil 8 or 6.5 foot bed

CrewCutEnterprises
02-04-2006, 06:51 PM
Ok, So here are the dimensions....We will be running a 36" and 48" walkbehind on this truck. They will cut residentials 20 to 30 a day 5 days a week for about a 30 week season.

Option 1
8 ft long flatbed, 6.5' wide and 2ft dovetail with 5ft gate.

Option 2
9 ft flatbed, 7 ft wide and 3 ft dovetail with a 4ft gate.

Option 3
10ft flatbed7 ft wide and 4.5 high double folding gate, 9 ft total length to make up for lack of dovetail



Im unsure if i want 18 inch mesh sides or stake sides. It will be used for mowing only during summer months. Snowplowing and snowblowing in the winter and leaf removal in the fall, to put on curb for our vac truck.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-04-2006, 06:53 PM
I would want a 12 or 14 foot dove tail not a lil 8 or 6.5 foot bed

Well, we have another crew with 16ft trailer so we have our large lots covered, and itwould be an 9 ft bed..

Edgewater
02-04-2006, 07:00 PM
What part do you need help with. If you do not have good fabrication skills, get one built. I have done a few flat beds. Adding a dove tail makes it more complicated. Steel is also not cheap.

You will need at least the following.

Arc welder, mig works better on the expanded metal, but I like a stick for the channel and angle.

A good angle grinder and lots of cutting wheels. Get 3/32nd or 1/16, 1/8 are slow and you use them up for nothing.

A chop saw is nice for cutting angles and square cuts.

Lots of welding claps (ie vice grips)


The basic design is two long sills that run fron to back. Then you put cross braces on top for your floor. Weld a frame around the outside of the cross braces. That frame is what makes the visible sides. Make sure you long sills are tied together in the front and use grade 8 or better bolts to the frame. If you get rear ended and the bolts shear, a beam that points toweard the cab with no cap ob the from will punch trough and the driver will no be around to tell the story.

For the wiring, use agood conections and lights. Get a plug off a factory wiring harness in the scrap. That way if you sell the truck, you can put the bed back on and keep your flat deck.

Oh yeah, you will need to compensate for the hump in the truck frame since it is not a chassis cab. the frame looks like this


_____------_____________


You can use steel or HARD WOOD, to make spacers between the frame rails and the truck frame.

If there is anything else, let me know maybe I can help

Adam

Edgewater
02-04-2006, 07:04 PM
I just saw you other posts.

On a pickup, you can have no more than 7 feet plus a dove tail. The Cab Axle measure is too short. Any more, and you will stress the hell out of the frame and rear suspension, while unloading the steering tires, making it hard to stop and steer

CrewCutEnterprises
02-04-2006, 07:17 PM
What part do you need help with. If you do not have good fabrication skills, get one built. I have done a few flat beds. Adding a dove tail makes it more complicated. Steel is also not cheap.

You will need at least the following.

Arc welder, mig works better on the expanded metal, but I like a stick for the channel and angle.

A good angle grinder and lots of cutting wheels. Get 3/32nd or 1/16, 1/8 are slow and you use them up for nothing.

A chop saw is nice for cutting angles and square cuts.

Lots of welding claps (ie vice grips)


The basic design is two long sills that run fron to back. Then you put cross braces on top for your floor. Weld a frame around the outside of the cross braces. That frame is what makes the visible sides. Make sure you long sills are tied together in the front and use grade 8 or better bolts to the frame. If you get rear ended and the bolts shear, a beam that points toweard the cab with no cap ob the from will punch trough and the driver will no be around to tell the story.

For the wiring, use agood conections and lights. Get a plug off a factory wiring harness in the scrap. That way if you sell the truck, you can put the bed back on and keep your flat deck.

Oh yeah, you will need to compensate for the hump in the truck frame since it is not a chassis cab. the frame looks like this


_____------_____________


You can use steel or HARD WOOD, to make spacers between the frame rails and the truck frame.

If there is anything else, let me know maybe I can help

Adam

Im having one built, me and a friend.

He has a miller matic 251 mig welder. metal blade chop saw, 9 and 4.5 inch grinders, clamps, oxy acedlin? cutter. We have welded stuff before but i dident know much about flatbeds... I looked at the work trucks and they use [ channel.

I was thinking 3 inch [ channel down the frame, and 2 inch running across width wise, with 1/8 floor.

And steel is very expensive.. I know, but I wanted to try this and not have to have a trailer anymore for this truck. As for mounting the body i was going to use large u bolts, 8 or 6. like they do on the chassis cabs.

Grass Cake
02-04-2006, 07:19 PM
Here is a picture of what i have to work with, Sorry it is so hard to see its out of focus and now its dark outside.


Are you wanting to do this yourself?

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=128815

I built this one.

Grass Cake

CrewCutEnterprises
02-04-2006, 07:21 PM
I just saw you other posts.

On a pickup, you can have no more than 7 feet plus a dove tail. The Cab Axle measure is too short. Any more, and you will stress the hell out of the frame and rear suspension, while unloading the steering tires, making it hard to stop and steer

Its an 8 ft bed, I figured a 9 foot flat and 2.5 dovetail would be ok. It has the towing package so it have overload springs. Ive put 2500 lbs in it in addition to the 800 lb dump insert. So i figure the bed will weigh about 1300 lbs and i can put about 1500 lbs inside the bed safelay, as long as the weight is on or infront of the axel, not on the dovetail... i should be ok

CrewCutEnterprises
02-04-2006, 07:22 PM
Are you wanting to do this yourself?

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=128815

I built this one.

Grass Cake


Saw that last week, It got me going,... Where did you get your springs... I want to sadd some to my trailer and i will need some for this project.

Grass Cake
02-04-2006, 07:35 PM
Saw that last week, It got me going,... Where did you get your springs... I want to sadd some to my trailer and i will need some for this project.

I got them from a local truck body shop.

Ingrams Truck Bodies...Ballground Ga. (they have a website)

Basically what the other guys said....tubing down the rails.... [ channel for the cross members......i'd use flat bar to cap the sides(ends) of the [ channel myself.

Grass Cake

CrewCutEnterprises
02-04-2006, 07:41 PM
can i use like 2 to 3 inch channel down the frame rails and 2 inch channel across? then like 2x2 1/8 inch angle around the edges.( the perimeter of the body., maybe 3x3 angle.. grass cake, what size is yours down the dovetail, and what size is the gate, height , metal size etc.

Jpocket
02-04-2006, 09:43 PM
Here is a picture of what i have to work with, Sorry it is so hard to see its out of focus and now its dark outside.

Please don't tell me you took the body off of the pretty Green F-250 you posted pics of on here.:nono:

Thats just plain wrong...

lampeslawnservice
02-04-2006, 09:59 PM
I built this one just as a beginner for my spare truck, cant bring myself to do it to my 04 F250 yet. I can't remember the steel I used but will post a better pic tommorrow with better pics of the underside etc. Two things I would do different is the headache rack behind the window would make it different so as to see out the back window better, and relocate the gas filler tube for better access. i will post more tom. You can expect two guys to take about 30 to 40 hours of work before paint.

Grass Cake
02-04-2006, 11:14 PM
can i use like 2 to 3 inch channel down the frame rails and 2 inch channel across? then like 2x2 1/8 inch angle around the edges.( the perimeter of the body., maybe 3x3 angle.. grass cake, what size is yours down the dovetail, and what size is the gate, height , metal size etc.

You could use many types of metal for the outer frame
of the bed...but you still want to make it as LIGHT as possible. The outside edges won't be supporting that much weight....only the rear cross member needs to
be REALLY rigid for the hinged gates.

My bed is 34" from the ground to the top side of the dovetail. I bet yours won't be much lower.

The dovetail is at a 15 degree angle and is 3'6" long. I didn't want 4' hanging off the back..and.....it only changed the hinged gates by 2 degree.(framed with 3" angle and supported by 2" 11 gauge tubing)

Seeing that your building the WHOLE bed..i would make the dovetail 4'...it gets a little slippery when wet and you have poor traction shoes/boots on.

The hinged gates are 5'6". (1 1/2" 14 gauge tubing with 2"x 1" 14 gauge tubing braces at the expanded metal seam)

Grass Cake

nt1
02-05-2006, 12:30 AM
I built this one just as a beginner for my spare truck, cant bring myself to do it to my 04 F250 yet. I can't remember the steel I used but will post a better pic tommorrow with better pics of the underside etc. Two things I would do different is the headache rack behind the window would make it different so as to see out the back window better, and relocate the gas filler tube for better access. i will post more tom. You can expect two guys to take about 30 to 40 hours of work before paint.

Nice work!
How does the weight compare to the factory bed?

CrewCutEnterprises
02-05-2006, 01:31 AM
I built this one just as a beginner for my spare truck, cant bring myself to do it to my 04 F250 yet. I can't remember the steel I used but will post a better pic tommorrow with better pics of the underside etc. Two things I would do different is the headache rack behind the window would make it different so as to see out the back window better, and relocate the gas filler tube for better access. i will post more tom. You can expect two guys to take about 30 to 40 hours of work before paint.


I believe that is a ranger that you made the bed on?

I was thinking of building a cage on this instead of a headace rack. like this is the one on my 16 ft trailer, 24x24 fits 2 5gallons 2 backpak blowers 1 hedger 1 chainsaw and mix gas,.

But im not sure if i want it make it hard to see through the rear window as i will be using the truck to plow next year

http://www.lawnsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42728&d=1128992624

CrewCutEnterprises
02-05-2006, 01:35 AM
Please don't tell me you took the body off of the pretty Green F-250 you posted pics of on here.:nono:

Thats just plain wrong...


I knowI know, I can put the bed right back on, If needed.

Also I cant wait for more pictures!!

Envy Lawn Service
02-05-2006, 02:26 AM
I would go with option 1.

I don't think I would want to go over the factory bed length with the flat section.


Personally, I'd like to have an F450 outfitted with the Switch-N-Go

CrewCutEnterprises
02-05-2006, 11:10 AM
I would go with option 1.

I don't think I would want to go over the factory bed length with the flat section.


Personally, I'd like to have an F450 outfitted with the Switch-N-Go


Me too a 550 or 650 with one.. but im triing to keep costs down

lampeslawnservice
02-05-2006, 11:35 AM
Here's some pics. Sorry if they aren't great it is freezing out first time in a long time.

lampeslawnservice
02-05-2006, 11:37 AM
some more pics

lampeslawnservice
02-05-2006, 11:39 AM
and the truck that will probably have one on it in a few years. and also a headache rack I built for trailer. And an eay fix to those heavy tailgates

CrewCutEnterprises
02-05-2006, 01:20 PM
O my, Thank you soooo much... That is great, As for the fuel filler, Im going to make a 90 degree bracket so it is on the side of the body like it is on the pickup bed not inside, That would make it hard.

How far spaced are your crioss members under the flatbody? maybe 12 or 24..
Also did you add the expanded metal for the dovetail because it was slippery??

Thanks soo much....

Pristine PM
02-05-2006, 01:33 PM
I am curious what the main benifits of this type of set up are over just having the tailgate insert ramps. I guess this could hold more weight, but it just seems to make the truck more single purpose over the bed which seems somewhat multipurpose. It does look really nice though, as long as you can still tow.

Thanks,

Jon

Jpocket
02-05-2006, 01:38 PM
I knowI know, I can put the bed right back on, If needed.

Also I cant wait for more pictures!!

I would find another truck for that. Or wait until that one is older. Tha is too nice a truck to be putting a homemade body on.:nono:

Edgewater
02-05-2006, 01:55 PM
On mine, I used 3 inch [ channel down the frame 2 inch channel across and 3 inch as caps down the sides.

For holding it down, it may be tough to find U bolts that are as narrow as the truck frame rails. I just welded a plate on the side of the channel that comes down beside the frame, then bolted through the frame.

Good luck, they are real time consuming.

nt1
02-05-2006, 02:46 PM
Lampeslawnservice

Good/efficient looking service truck for maintenance!

Around here we could use a truck like that most of the season. Not much lawn waste except early spring and late fall. We mulch all properties.

How do you like it so far? Must be nice not using a trailer.

lampeslawnservice
02-05-2006, 04:20 PM
Lampeslawnservice

Good/efficient looking service truck for maintenance!

Around here we could use a truck like that most of the season. Not much lawn waste except early spring and late fall. We mulch all properties.

How do you like it so far? Must be nice not using a trailer.

It is a great addition for me used it all last year. I would like it to be on my heavier truck but still use it as a every day driver so not yet. It is a bit heavy for the ranger but added air shocks to componsate. I have had 1500# of fert in the back and it starts to get ugly. I think that is the the best part not having to lift spreader in and out just roll it up and bungie it down. Like I said I would probably design the headache rack different so I could see out the back window better, maybe by making it into three sections (the middle part smaller if you know what i mean) this would also hold gas cans from sliding kinda like two little tool boxes on each side of it. The expanded metal is to make it not so slick, on the flat bed when you paint it you can paint sand onto the steel so it os not so slick.
As far as not using a trailer decided to go this route when one of the guys jackknifed the trailer into the rear quater of the big truck!:cry: :cry: :cry: Thanks for your comments

lampeslawnservice
02-05-2006, 04:23 PM
Oh yeah meant to mention, that ranger is a 92 that before I bought it was rolled and totaled then repaired and I bought it. It had 21000 miles on it in 93 now has 170,000miles on it:) paid $6500 for it and it has made me well more than that in its lifetime!payup

lampeslawnservice
02-05-2006, 04:29 PM
O my, Thank you soooo much... That is great, As for the fuel filler, Im going to make a 90 degree bracket so it is on the side of the body like it is on the pickup bed not inside, That would make it hard.

How far spaced are your crioss members under the flatbody? maybe 12 or 24..
Also did you add the expanded metal for the dovetail because it was slippery??

Thanks soo much....

I tried making the fuel filler out the side but it would not allow the gas to run down onto the tank.

cross members are spaced 24"

DUSTYCEDAR
02-05-2006, 04:41 PM
some nice ideas i have seen

CrewCutEnterprises
02-05-2006, 06:51 PM
I am curious what the main benifits of this type of set up are over just having the tailgate insert ramps. I guess this could hold more weight, but it just seems to make the truck more single purpose over the bed which seems somewhat multipurpose. It does look really nice though, as long as you can still tow.

Thanks,

Jon


Well it is a work truck. As for multipurpose, I can run mowers, fert spreader , stump grinder, aerator, snow blower out of this truck. Also it has a snow plow so it would keep busy during the winter.

We could haul mulch and debris also if needed. But we have another truck for that.

Also a pickup bed is 48 inches wide.(inside wheel wells) flatbed is 6.5 to 7 ft wide and 8 ft long. Alot I mean ALOT MORE ROOM

CrewCutEnterprises
02-05-2006, 06:55 PM
It is a great addition for me used it all last year. I would like it to be on my heavier truck but still use it as a every day driver so not yet. It is a bit heavy for the ranger but added air shocks to componsate. I have had 1500# of fert in the back and it starts to get ugly. I think that is the the best part not having to lift spreader in and out just roll it up and bungie it down. Like I said I would probably design the headache rack different so I could see out the back window better, maybe by making it into three sections (the middle part smaller if you know what i mean) this would also hold gas cans from sliding kinda like two little tool boxes on each side of it. The expanded metal is to make it not so slick, on the flat bed when you paint it you can paint sand onto the steel so it os not so slick.
As far as not using a trailer decided to go this route when one of the guys jackknifed the trailer into the rear quater of the big truck!:cry: :cry: :cry: Thanks for your comments

I should ask you... How big would you make the one for your 8 ft bed. on your big truck?? I guess that might help me decied how big to make mine.

Im leaning twards 9 ft long with 3 ft dovetail or 9 or 10 ft flat with 4.5high double folding gate(9ft total) no dovetail. I could still tow a trailer would be the benifit, if needed. But then again, im triing to get away from trailers

CrewCutEnterprises
02-05-2006, 07:04 PM
Ok, Here is a picture of the gaping im planing for the bed, I just want to make sure the bed doesnt hit the tire. It will probably be another 2 inches

CrewCutEnterprises
02-05-2006, 07:05 PM
This is another shot of the body. Im triing to figure out how to still utilize the hitch.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-05-2006, 07:07 PM
Last picture of the whole truck.

I need some help on decieding how big to make it.... that is a 4x8 sheet of plywood, so i think it should be longer than 8 ft
It is 1.2 ft off the cab right now so where the endof the plywood is is 9ft.I would start the dovetail there. but i couldent use the hitch...

Truck looks badass without a bed right now

lampeslawnservice
02-05-2006, 10:38 PM
I would go 9' and then add the dove tail. I hav pondered the question how to still use the hitch also, and wonder from the pics of yours could you cut the welds and move it to? haven't investigated it on mine but think it could be moved with alot of quality welding to hold it in place. i wouldn't want to haul to much, but it would be there if you needed it.

Envy Lawn Service
02-05-2006, 11:55 PM
A bi-fold split rear gate instead of the dovetail is the obvious choice if you want to tow also.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-06-2006, 12:57 AM
A bi-fold split rear gate instead of the dovetail is the obvious choice if you want to tow also.

Yes i was thinking that also. I could make the bed 9'5 or even 10 then run a double high 4.5 gate, that was hinged so it wasnt straight but curved so it made the ramp angle less. I like that option as if we were just plowing or using the truck for other duties we could take the gate off and it would be a great plow truck as far as visibility goes.

also usa ramp says "The R10T is constructed with an included 8 degree angle in the hinge to help with mowers that have a low belly clearance. " so i could build a slight angle in the center hinge. There ramp is 10 ft long. I could make one side (truck side) 4.5 and bottom part 5.5 so it is only 4.5 tall off the bed but 10 ft long and the extra foot would just hang down behind the body above the hitch.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-06-2006, 01:11 AM
Here is the basic idea

Gravel Rat
02-06-2006, 01:50 AM
You may want to make it so lower the first stage of the ramp and the other stage of the ramp is folded so its on top of the first ramp.

A analogy think of it like a hydabed you put out the first section then lift the second section thats folded on top of itself.

You don't really want the second ramp folded on the out side as it can jam up into the ground. Also you would have to have a person pull that ramp out while you tilt the other ramp down which could cause a back injury.

With the second ramps folded on the inside you tilt the first stage down then step on to the ramp and flip the second stage out. When your loaded up and ready to go you flop the second section onto the first section latch them down and tilt the main section up.

Envy Lawn Service
02-06-2006, 02:06 AM
Well it can be done either way I guess.

But the key would be to make it a split ramp with a left and right half.
Then in addition, add gate lift assists on both sides.
The Ballard EZ Gate or an assist like that and maybe also some hinge springs.

yardmanlee
02-06-2006, 09:29 AM
instead of the box behind the cab why not put a couple of boxes or storage
crates/bins under the bed on each side of the truck for fuel cans/air tank/
chainsaw/ hedge trimmers/ whatever ? better than walking up on the truck everytime ya need something, just a thought !!!!

CrewCutEnterprises
02-06-2006, 10:44 PM
instead of the box behind the cab why not put a couple of boxes or storage
crates/bins under the bed on each side of the truck for fuel cans/air tank/
chainsaw/ hedge trimmers/ whatever ? better than walking up on the truck everytime ya need something, just a thought !!!!

Good idea, not sure if it will fit a blower under the side infront of the wheel well.

I just totaled up the cost of steel for the 8 ft flatbed and a gate and the total is about $500.00 then $200.00 for my welding friend and gas etc, grinder wheels etc.

It will cost me another 200.00 to add the dove tail with ramp... Not sure if im going that route yet, the most expensive part is flat steel a 4x8 x 1/8 sheet is 105.00 OUCH:cry:

O well. I will post pitures of the processs. But anyone think i should have a flatbed, or a dovetail? A dovetail i cant find a way to use existing hitch without putting new one on dove tail

Also how hard it is to wire up the tail lights etc

Gravel Rat
02-07-2006, 01:02 AM
I think you are better off with folding ramps over a dovetail as if you still want to use the truck for any kind of offroad use or even trying to climb a steep incline the azz end will drag.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-09-2006, 08:49 PM
Whoooooops 2 posts

CrewCutEnterprises
02-09-2006, 08:50 PM
I got one of my new mowers today.
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=132697
Going to pick up steel tomarrow

It will be 76 inches wide and 80 inches overall width.

ALarsh
02-11-2006, 10:20 PM
Crew Cut- Do you have any pics of the body?? How is the progress going?

CrewCutEnterprises
02-12-2006, 12:17 AM
Well as taxes were due at the end of last month. Im triing to make sure bills get paid for the month..

I will post pictures, we should be under progress next week, But now that it WAS warm, we have 2 weeks worth of work scheduled so it's gotta get built now before we get tooo busy.

I did get my mowers though.

I decieded on 3 inch structural channel down the frame and 2 inch channel across on 24 inch centers to save weight. they will be gusseted and welded at each intersection. It will be 76" inside and it will be 80" overall. Width. I have been waiting for the 2nd mower(36) so I can find out exactly how to put mowers on and if i need a dovetail.

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=132697

Gravel Rat
02-12-2006, 12:32 AM
I would either use 2x2x1/4 tubing for the cross members or use 3" channel the 2" channel isn't strong enough and I would also use 4" long sills to make the bed more ridgid.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-12-2006, 12:50 AM
Tubing has a problem of Rusting here in the North east. It gets salt etc inside of it. Thats the reason for the channel, As for not using larger steel, its to keep the height down and the weight. This body cant weigh much more than 1300 lbs.

What are sills? i would like a picture if you have or can give me an idea of what it is.

also all stake bodies have 4 inch channel down the frame and 3 inch channel cross members so whats the problem? its going to be hauling 1000 lbs in mowers not anything heavy

Gravel Rat
02-12-2006, 01:21 AM
The Sills is what the crossmembers sit on they are what sits on top of the truck frame.

Usually a 8 foot bed will have 4 or 5 crossmembers at 16" centers or you can stretch that to 18" centers.

If you want a light bed then you would have to look at a Omaha Standard 8'6"
bed that is 6'8" wide with a wood floor and stake pockets you will be looking at 524lbs.

I'am in the process of putting together a 11x8 dumping flatdeck for my 95 F-450 I'am projecting the steel is going to cost me 1500-2000 dollars.

I'am constructing my deck with 4x3x3/8s angle iron perimiter frame with 3" cross sills on 12"-16 centers with 5" long sills and the decking will be 1/8th smooth plate. The deck I'am building has to support dumping 9000lbs of gravel.

My familly has been in the welding business for 30 years the one thing you learn is slightly over build things they last longer.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-12-2006, 07:12 PM
gmc This thing looked cool.

Ok so the sills are the ones that are typically 4 inches. Then the crossmembers are usually 3 inch channel,(on these lawn service bodies)

I will to 18 inch centers instead of 24 inch centers.

So here is my thought
Sills. 4 Inch Channel
Crossmembers 3 Inch Channel
Crossmembers on 18" Centers.
We are going to run 3x3 1/4 angle around the body (rub rail)
2x2x1/8 angle for the 24x24 storage cage across the front, and the 18 to 24 inch high sides.
1/8 flat steel (4x8sheet) 105.00 Ouch. I need 2 to 3 sheets.

Does that sound good? I still have to decied on the flatbed or dovetail idea....

i took a look at the omaha bed, nice bed but they are expensive. So is the cost to build your bed.
The Sills is what the crossmembers sit on they are what sits on top of the truck frame.

Usually a 8 foot bed will have 4 or 5 crossmembers at 16" centers or you can stretch that to 18" centers.

If you want a light bed then you would have to look at a Omaha Standard 8'6"
bed that is 6'8" wide with a wood floor and stake pockets you will be looking at 524lbs.

I'am in the process of putting together a 11x8 dumping flatdeck for my 95 F-450 I'am projecting the steel is going to cost me 1500-2000 dollars.

I'am constructing my deck with 4x3x3/8s angle iron perimiter frame with 3" cross sills on 12"-16 centers with 5" long sills and the decking will be 1/8th smooth plate. The deck I'am building has to support dumping 9000lbs of gravel.

My familly has been in the welding business for 30 years the one thing you learn is slightly over build things they last longer.

Gravel Rat
02-12-2006, 10:28 PM
That should be good for your truck it will be strong enough to put a skid of fertilizer etc. Who knows you maybe want to haul a Dingo or a 2000lb mini excavator.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-12-2006, 10:56 PM
Yea, Im planning it so i could put the 62 inch Ztr mower on the truck If needed. It would be pushing the payload though.

Mini skid is a great idea also. And our stump grinder, and aerator and fert spreader.. Im thinking of making one side have a drop down side to take a pallet of materails.

Envy Lawn Service
02-12-2006, 11:40 PM
Im thinking of making one side have a drop down side to take a pallet of materails.

I was actually returning to this thread to suggest that you do that.

DUSTYCEDAR
02-13-2006, 07:18 PM
ok somthing to think about
first weight the steel u want to use so u know how much weight u r adding
the steel supplier can tell u the weight of the steel u r buying
u want to make it as light as u can truck beds r made light to get a bigger pay load so do go overboard
make it as close to the frame rails as u can u can always put small humps over the wheels if u need to for clearance
i would not make a dove tail because u lose the hitch it also hangs way over the back wheels and u have to watch it when u turn and with steep inclines also
just my thoughts

CrewCutEnterprises
02-13-2006, 10:58 PM
Ok did some measuring and i need some help.

Step 1 is mower placement, this will decied how big and how to make the bed.

Step 2 is the length..

Options A......

CrewCutEnterprises
02-13-2006, 11:01 PM
This is the view straight down, you can see the lines...

The line closest to the mower is 8 ft, the rear line is 10 ft. so to close the gate, the bed has to be atleast 10 ft with option A

CrewCutEnterprises
02-13-2006, 11:03 PM
Option B. The 36" has to be wiggled in sideways. Kinda a pain in the .... But it makes it in 8 ft

Line closest the mower is 8'5 ft, rear line is 10 ft

CrewCutEnterprises
02-13-2006, 11:06 PM
The height under the cage in my trailer (this pic is 2' 5 inches) Mine on the truck bed will be 18 inches. Just enough to clear the casters.

Gravel Rat
02-13-2006, 11:09 PM
The longest you will want to make a bed on a P/U truck that originally had a 8 foot bed is 9'. You don't want to make it too short you will be kicking yourself when you can't squeeze the extra piece of equipment on the back because the bed is 12"s too short.

I don't think you will be adding that much weight to the truck building the flatdeck.

Envy Lawn Service
02-13-2006, 11:09 PM
Well you know that I have been all for shorter.
But it looks like the sideways thing will be an every stop aggrivation.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-13-2006, 11:11 PM
Ok, here is a picture of my Dump insert in my pickup... The total length with the tailgate down is 10'5. Here is the amount of clearance over the hitch.

I could still use hitch to tow, The mowers weight wouldent be past 8 ft on the body but the gate would have to attach at 10 ft to make sure it closed.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-13-2006, 11:12 PM
The longest you will want to make a bed on a P/U truck that originally had a 8 foot bed is 9'. You don't want to make it too short you will be kicking yourself when you can't squeeze the extra piece of equipment on the back because the bed is 12"s too short.

I don't think you will be adding that much weight to the truck building the flatdeck.


You guys replied QUICK!!!!

Envy Lawn Service
02-13-2006, 11:13 PM
Can you not get by with going wide enought to fit them both side by side?

Together they are 7' and you would need a few more inches.

I have no idea really, just asking.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-13-2006, 11:14 PM
Well you know that I have been all for shorter.
But it looks like the sideways thing will be an every stop aggrivation.


Agreed, think about doing it at the top of an 8 ft long ramp..........

ALarsh
02-13-2006, 11:26 PM
How wide is the cab on that 250? The mowers should be 84 inches wide, make it 86 inches? Might be do-able.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-13-2006, 11:48 PM
yea 7 ft..

Cab skinny. The width over the wheels is about 80 to 82 inches... give or take.

The body I planned on making was 76 inches inside and 80 inches outside.

If i made the body big enough to accomodate the mowers next to each other it woul have to be 86 to 88 inches wide inside and 92 outside(side rails etc).

It makes it tooo big..

dually bodies are only 96 inches wide so its not too much of an option..

I dont know what to do.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-13-2006, 11:50 PM
I think i took this just for you. This is how it looks, the amount of room i have and dont have. My trailer is 76 inches wide inside.

Gravel Rat
02-14-2006, 12:16 AM
You could make the bed full 8 or 8'6" wide but it looks too goofy on a SRW truck so 7' wide is about all you want to go or you can make it 3"s wider on each side of the cab.

Another thing to consider is if you have employees not used to driving a wider truck you may have some insurance claims on your hands when the corner of the flatdeck rips open the side of a parked BMW like a can opener :nono:

Myself I have troubles driving a regular P/U as I'am so used to driving trucks with a full 8 wide deck that is 12' long along with F-450s don't turn sharp. One of my favorite tricks to do when parking in a mall parking lot is try find a open parking stall where there is a car on either side then I back in.

There usually is only inches to spare the car on the drivers side of my truck can't get in and the car on the otherside can't open their passenger door :laugh:

I can get out because my truck is long enough the door opens at the end of the car I blocked in :D

The best people to do that too is teenage girls they stand their scratching their heads trying to figure out how they are going to get into their car :cool2:

Its one of the perks of having a steel flatdeck on your truck :drinkup:

Envy Lawn Service
02-14-2006, 12:27 AM
Oh SRW (single rear wheel)

From the last picture, set the mowers out and see what it would take to get that 36" farther forward. Deck beside rear tire of the 48"/ caster beside the discharge chute. That would shorten things up nicely!!! Looks like you need only inches in width to chop feet in length.

Arrange them every possible way too and check it. They may squeeze up better somehow another way.

hole in one lco
02-14-2006, 12:33 AM
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=125057&highlight=lake
here is a 5-8 with 2 48s if i put them in front ways i can lower the gate about 5in and they fit too

Envy Lawn Service
02-14-2006, 12:39 AM
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=125057&highlight=lake
here is a 5-8 with 2 48s if i put them in front ways i can lower the gate about 5in and they fit too

What brand are those. It's cool you just posted that because I was sitting here wondering if his 36" and 48" would interlock similarly. But of course he can't have the hangover on the truck.

I was trying to figure if he put the 36" up front, if the 48" casters would be far apart enough to fit the rear tires of the 36" between them... If so they would interlock and snug up pretty tight.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 12:46 AM
Yea,I tried the interlocking technique too. Its nice but its stillneeding 10 ft to close the gate, the rear wheels make it inside of 8 ft though. This is such a pain

Envy Lawn Service
02-14-2006, 12:51 AM
Reconsider post #74 then.

I think thats your best bet.

You probably need what 80" inside max to do that.
Puts you at an even 7 ft on the outside.

hole in one lco
02-14-2006, 01:07 AM
What brand are those. It's cool you just posted that because I was sitting here wondering if his 36" and 48" would interlock similarly. But of course he can't have the hangover on the truck.

I was trying to figure if he put the 36" up front, if the 48" casters would be far apart enough to fit the rear tires of the 36" between them... If so they would interlock and snug up pretty tight.
nothing but the best lesco its all i buy if lesco dont sell it i dont own it

hole in one lco
02-14-2006, 01:11 AM
Iv solved you problem give me 5 min and ill draw you a pic

hole in one lco
02-14-2006, 01:24 AM
The red is the gate you can make it slide like a u haul or beer truck. now you can load your mower facing forward

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 12:12 PM
Easier said then done... But good idea...

As for using sills. Graverat. I was lookin at the design of the factory bed and they just use cross members.

Could i just use crossmembers and use the factory bed bolts and bolt it on?? This would keep it lower to the ground.

Problem is, using a 3 to 4 inch sill, then a 3 inch crossmember the bed is 7 inches tall plus the frame isnt straight likea 350 chassis or 550. its curved so it will have to be shimmed, so it will be about 9 inches off the frame rail... Kinda high...

Could i use just 3 inch channel for the crossmembers and build off of that?? Only problem is the one crossmember that goes near the wheelwell.

Edgewater
02-14-2006, 05:28 PM
You need to measure the distance that your rear suspension can travel. Bump stops to axle. If it is 6-7 inces, you need to make sure that the bottom of your deck is the same 6-7 inches above your tires. Space your cross members out so that they are in front of and behing the tire, so that you can get the deck as low as possible.


What mowers and how many are you trying to put on there again??

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 05:40 PM
a 48 and a 36 inch grear drive walkbehind.

I decieded to just do crossmembers, Ill have to shim under some of them with washers, and if i have to i can add a sill down the rails but it raises it up so much.

Its going to be 82 inches wide. We loaded the truck down with a tractor till it was about an inch from the bump stops in the following pic

Channel down the frame will be 3 inch. and its 1'4 thick(2x4'sin pic)
the angle is 3/16 inch 3x3

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 05:45 PM
The problem is this one crossmember, We are either going to notch it with the torch or cut it off and weld 1x1 or 1/2 flat steel from the channel to the underside of the angle. The wood decking should make it ok, Its not holding that much weight

It will have a wood decking, because for the amount of steel i need, flatsteel that is, its over 350.00

It will cost me about 100.00 in deck boards that wont rust and can be replaced.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 05:50 PM
All the crossmembers, 5 per 8 ft of bed will be bolted to existing holes in the frame from the factory bed. Then the wood deck will be drilled and bolted with 1/4 2 inch long carrage bolts and nuts.

Wood deck is cheap and replaceable. Im standing on the frame and looking down onto the deck.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 05:53 PM
Ok so im bored....

Here is a shot of the rear. It will be atleast 8 ft long, but now the gate wont have to be super huge so the angle wont be so bad..

Here is an overall pic.. the 2x4s are not cut the right length on the passenger side but check the overhang on the drivers.. the inside width is 82 inches and outside is 86 once i build the cage etc...

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 05:54 PM
yes yes i was bored.......

Im going to paint my grill to match my logo, as there are tooooooooooooooo many f350's that are white, We all look the same.

Envy Lawn Service
02-14-2006, 05:56 PM
Oh if that is 82" represented, it ain't going to hurt the looks at all to widen it some to make it a better worker.

As for the cross pieces, would it hurt to just adjust those two to a point equal at the front and back of the tire? In other words, you would shift them both towards the back a little to center them up for the tire...

Did you catch on and understand what I was trying to tell you to do with this arrangement?

http://www.lawnsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50131&stc=1&d=1139889013

You only need a little more width there to be able to drive the 36" father forward...putting the trim side of it's deck beside the right rear tire of the 48"... and putting it's caster beside the discharge of the 48"...

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 06:31 PM
Yes, I did, make it so the mower deck went next to the tire on the 48, until the mower deck on the 36 hits the back of the 48 inch deck.

Yea i could move the crossmember that is a problem but i would have to drill a new hole in the frame, not a problem, but none the less.

Is that a better option, to move it back 7 inches and drill another hole?

Gravel Rat
02-14-2006, 06:40 PM
You can put the crossmembers right onto the chassis but you will need to weld a tab onto the flange of the channel you are using you won't have enough room to drill a 1/2 hole.

You do have to remember you need wheel clearance as a regular P/U box has wheel wells.

Have a look at this website this guy is a member of Oil Burners but this is the deck he built to carry his Willys Jeep it will give you a good idea on how to build your deck.

http://home.off-road.com/~usnick/flatbed2.html

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 08:52 PM
You can put the crossmembers right onto the chassis but you will need to weld a tab onto the flange of the channel you are using you won't have enough room to drill a 1/2 hole.

You do have to remember you need wheel clearance as a regular P/U box has wheel wells.

Have a look at this website this guy is a member of Oil Burners but this is the deck he built to carry his Willys Jeep it will give you a good idea on how to build your deck.

http://home.off-road.com/~usnick/flatbed2.html

That helps, well im off to buy steel tomarrow,will post back

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 09:03 PM
Oh if that is 82" represented, it ain't going to hurt the looks at all to widen it some to make it a better worker.

As for the cross pieces, would it hurt to just adjust those two to a point equal at the front and back of the tire? In other words, you would shift them both towards the back a little to center them up for the tire...

Did you catch on and understand what I was trying to tell you to do with this arrangement?

http://www.lawnsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50131&stc=1&d=1139889013

You only need a little more width there to be able to drive the 36" father forward...putting the trim side of it's deck beside the right rear tire of the 48"... and putting it's caster beside the discharge of the 48"...

I can get the 36 up next to the rear tire of the 48 with the 82 inch width... But I can put them side by side.............. It would be too wide, but it might make it in 8 ft if we can make it 82 inches wide.

Envy Lawn Service
02-14-2006, 09:10 PM
Yes, I did, make it so the mower deck went next to the tire on the 48, until the mower deck on the 36 hits the back of the 48 inch deck.

Yea i could move the crossmember that is a problem but i would have to drill a new hole in the frame, not a problem, but none the less.

Is that a better option, to move it back 7 inches and drill another hole?

So what did the width turn out to be that way?

How much length did it save you?
Hopefully plenty enough to shorten up the bed enough.

As for the cross members, this thread is so long now that I've lost the materials list and mental picture in my head I think. But I have a full understanding of your wanting the bed as low as possible, and I also have understanding about changing things on the truck itself. I wouldn't want to do that either. So gimmie a step by set rundown of the frame build and the materials per step.... (and we'll work it out right) I already have some ideas I believe will work but I need to be clear first about the materials and spacing for structural integrity.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 09:40 PM
Design....

Cross members.
3 Inch Strutural Channel steel. Spacing is 20 inches from the 1(nearest cab) to 2, so it goes(1) 20 (2) 19 (3) 22 (4) 20 (5) and the last one at exactly 8 ft is (6) 1 ft from the last.

As for the last ft im unsure so far.

The channel are on these funny spacings because thats where the factory frame holes are. I was going to use the existing holes and drill through the channeland boltthe bed down. Then bolt the deck boards ontop of it.

3x3 x 3/16 angle iron is what goes around the bottom perimeter and will be great because it frames in the wood decking.

Then 2x2x1/8 angle iron will be used to build the cage on the front and the 24 inch high sides, then expanded metal will be used 24 inches tall and 10 ft long on either side, and along the front behind the cab. the cage will be the width of the body 82 or 84 and 24x24, big enough to fit 2 blowers etc gas etc.

So i need
3 inch channel.
3x3 3/16 angle
2x2 1/8 angle
2 sheets of 4x10ft expanded metal. (doesnt include the ramp)

Envy Lawn Service
02-14-2006, 09:58 PM
OK, thanks, just wanted to let you know I'm here and thinking....
Plugging your specs in my design software (wish I could post it when done)

Envy Lawn Service
02-14-2006, 10:17 PM
http://www.lawnsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50179&stc=1&d=1139953604

OK, the cross piece (2x4 in picture) that is in front of the tire is NOT in the way right?

When you push the truck down near the bump stops I mean...
That one in front of the tire is not going to hit the tire and neither is the deck right?

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 10:59 PM
correct suspension will only go down another inch till it hits bump stop

The crossmember in the right side of the picture is the one that is the problem. The reason you cant move it back it the shock mount sticks up about 2 inches.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-14-2006, 11:06 PM
ok. here is the problem with moving that back.

Envy Lawn Service
02-15-2006, 12:18 AM
Yeah, that throws a kink in things.
I wouldn't want to spread them farther than 24"
So prior to seeing the shock mount I was thinking...

Spread those two to 24" OC apart, then shift those two back, effectively centering the tire in the gap in between. So you would have about a 3 ft box in front of and behind of the tire cross members with 4 sticks in place (front/back, 2 @ tire) and the final 2 stick could have split the difference in between.

But that ain't gonna work. Errrr... this would all take 5 minutes for me to see, figure and explain if I was there...

Anyhow, in the pics it looks like the shock mounts are just ahead of the overload leaf spring hangers... the L stops mounted to the frame rail that catch that leaf. Is that right?

If so, judging by the location of the front 2x4, that's about the idea place the rear needs to be. Sucks because that spacing would be too far.... and from the looks of the frame rail contour, the front one can't go back any further without getting on the rise.

Is the above right or wrong? Hard to feel certain from pictures.

The suggestions are coming, I just don't want to jumble everything together.

Envy Lawn Service
02-15-2006, 12:36 AM
OK, the way I see it you have two choices.

#1- Buy one more cross member, place it as far forward (behind the tire) as possible. But only if this location is a good deal beyond 24" from the very BACK cross member. Otherwise you could just re-locate #5, right?

Either way, now what I would do is just crop the problem piece off and do so to the point I would know the tire would never hit it. Then I would consider running a ladder bars across (parallel with the truck rails) to sure it up to the member in front and behind it.

If you don't want to bore new holes in the frame, you could just seek out existing holes in the top or side of the rails, then weld mounting tabs to the members to work it out.

Envy Lawn Service
02-15-2006, 12:44 AM
Option #2

If it were me, I would very likely move # 3 back as far as I could.
Then move #4 back just enough so it never hits.
(just do my best with the spacing knowing nothing will hit.

Then I'd lay a ruler on it and pray it was close to 24" between them.

If it was farther than 24" to the point it worried me, I'd figure a way to support that area that wouldn't cause a problem. Wouldn't take a lot.

Overall, I'd rather you be on the phone with me and standing by the truck with a ruler.
It would be quicker to figure out and easier to explain than this way...

CrewCutEnterprises
02-15-2006, 11:10 AM
Pm or email me at jason@crewcutenterprises.com with your info, let me know when to call.

As for just cutting the problem piece and just welding it to the one infront and one behind. As we will have 3x3 angle going down the side to keep the structural integrity.

The shock mount is a pain!!!!

I could move it back about an inch, but after that you run into the overload hanger, correct.

Either way i think we could brace it all up so it would be fine.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-16-2006, 10:14 PM
Ok Update, bought the steel. Ready to roll tomarrow

It will be 7'2 wide.

At exactly 7 ft the 2 mowers fit like this...

And they make it to 8 ft long

Thanks for the idea Envy

Envy Lawn Service
02-16-2006, 10:47 PM
Fits like a GLOVE!

CrewCutEnterprises
02-18-2006, 08:27 PM
Let the building Begin,2/17/06

CrewCutEnterprises
02-18-2006, 08:29 PM
Drivers side.

Crossmembers are 4 inch c channel(sold out of 3 inch)

85 inches long.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-18-2006, 08:35 PM
Another shot.

5 crossmembers on the frame.

The metal ontop of the receiver hitch is going to becomethe bumper

CrewCutEnterprises
02-18-2006, 08:38 PM
Here is the picture of the problem fixed. notice the shotgun shells holding up crossmember #4. There will be a small tab welded to the frame to make that area level to mount the crossmember

nt1
02-19-2006, 12:16 AM
Looking good!

It sure is nice seeing all the photos! Thanks, and look forward to seeing more of your project.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-19-2006, 11:32 AM
photo's tell the story...

nt1
02-19-2006, 11:12 PM
Photo's tell the story... and a thousand words:)

CrewCutEnterprises
02-20-2006, 09:01 PM
With the use of a drill press we drilled 8 holes in the 6 crossmembers on the frame.
Used today

9 inch dewalt grinder
drill press
dewalt metal chop saw
millermatic 251 welder.

Today drilled all the holes for the crossmembers, squared it all up and welded it together. We used grade 8 bolts and the second crossmember required shimms.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-20-2006, 09:02 PM
Here is a little welding on the 3rd crossmember

CrewCutEnterprises
02-20-2006, 09:04 PM
A welders best friend, used to keep the channel to the angle during while my friend welds it.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-20-2006, 09:07 PM
And you guys thought i was kidding about this... :) No turning back now..


Here is the rear with the 6th crossmember that is floating at this moment. Ontop is a piece of angle that the deck boards fit into. The 6th crossmember will be welded to the 5th and crossbraced to the bolt holes where the bumper mounted. the crossbraces between 5 and 6 will mount the bumper.(4 inch channel)

nt1
02-21-2006, 04:48 PM
Almost looks like you know what you are doing....lol

Seriously though, nice work so far.

fastg60
02-22-2006, 08:15 PM
i'm looking forward to following the progress of this build! good luck with everything!!

CrewCutEnterprises
02-23-2006, 12:33 AM
Ok we are done the sides, but I now have a few grand worth of work to get done, so Ill post pictures by the weekend.

TWUllc
02-23-2006, 12:00 PM
CrewCut, tus es muy loco. I'm gonna have to drive down one day and see this thing for myself when you're done. How far are you from Baltimore again?

CrewCutEnterprises
02-23-2006, 11:59 PM
30 mins from glen burnie, so 45

CrewCutEnterprises
02-24-2006, 08:41 PM
Update, *** Friday

Building the sides

CrewCutEnterprises
02-24-2006, 08:43 PM
Bumper installed.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-24-2006, 08:46 PM
Passenger side before mesh

CrewCutEnterprises
02-24-2006, 08:47 PM
:weightlifter: Almost done.. Gotta do the 4 inch flat bar down the ends of the channel

Were taking the body off, then paint, then back on, then boards,..

Then ramps and cage.

jreiff
02-24-2006, 09:36 PM
Looks like you might have a new profession. Looks good. Can't wait to see the final product.

Envy Lawn Service
02-25-2006, 09:10 PM
Do yourself and your crew a favor by cutting/rounding all the sharp corners off.

Especially the ones up by the cab and the ones on the bumper....

Looks great though.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-25-2006, 11:49 PM
took the bed off today, began painting at 8pm tonight...

Took some more pics

CrewCutEnterprises
02-25-2006, 11:53 PM
O man it looks good,
Next week we finish painting, putbed back on, bolt it down, put down lumber for the floors, put chassis lights on, mount tag and tag light, run lights for amber corners and red for rear clearance corners and over 80 inch (3) lights in the middle of rear.

Then Mud flaps.

What i need help on is building the ramps, im thinking a double folding ramp. I was thinking of doing a set up like this guy naturescape's. He used a winch to lift the gate, very good idea..

gene gls
02-25-2006, 11:56 PM
Do yourself and your crew a favor by cutting/rounding all the sharp corners off.

Especially the ones up by the cab and the ones on the bumper....

Looks great though.

Also, cut a 45 deg angle on the ends of all the cross members that are exposed.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-25-2006, 11:56 PM
here is his ramps

CrewCutEnterprises
02-25-2006, 11:58 PM
here is the 2500 lb winch

CrewCutEnterprises
02-25-2006, 11:59 PM
Another of how it mounts

CrewCutEnterprises
02-26-2006, 10:36 AM
Also, cut a 45 deg angle on the ends of all the cross members that are exposed.

Im putting a cap down it of 4 inch flat 1/8"

CrewCutEnterprises
02-26-2006, 10:35 PM
Today.. Sunday.. Wow. 30 degrees is cold...

CrewCutEnterprises
02-26-2006, 10:37 PM
i rounded the corner.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-26-2006, 10:38 PM
I painted the truck frame too.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-26-2006, 10:39 PM
All painted and almost there.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-26-2006, 10:40 PM
The whole body, front view

willretire@40
02-26-2006, 10:50 PM
any idea of how much it weighs.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-26-2006, 11:43 PM
700 lbs or less as the tractor gets light over that,

When its all said and done ill add up the the length and find our how much it weighs from the steel yard.

But it doesn have rear gates or wood decking or the cage on it yet.

qualitylawnmanagement
02-27-2006, 07:52 AM
Good job man, looks like it came from the factory lol.

nt1
02-27-2006, 11:10 PM
Can I borrow your "truck jack", need to do some brake work this weekend?

BSDeality
02-27-2006, 11:25 PM
looking good! Go for LED lighting while you're at it too!

Grass Cake
02-28-2006, 12:38 AM
looking good! Go for LED lighting while you're at it too!

Those things are Bright!

and look double :cool:

Envy Lawn Service
02-28-2006, 01:18 AM
I wanted to switch my trailer over to LED and add a safety strobe.
But I couldn't get anyone to give me information on what would be involved and how to go about it.

BSDeality
02-28-2006, 01:36 AM
Heck Yea strobes are bright. I've got them on my trailer. I love 'em

Envy start another thread... I converted my trailer to LEDs last year. i have some thoughts on adding safety strobes as I will be doing that this year to my trailer also.

CrewCutEnterprises
02-28-2006, 09:47 AM
i got these, like 19.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Fcgiurl%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fcgi.ebay.co m%252Fws%252F%26fkr%3D1%26from%3DR8%26satitle%3D8040179283%26category0%3D%26fvi%3D1&item=8040179283

for 5 red and 2 amber. (3 for over 80 in rear)

I also got some ford chassis taillights off ebay for 9.99

The bed is all done paint ill take pics today.

Needs wood, finish fabing the gas filler and then gates. and lights

CrewCutEnterprises
02-28-2006, 09:48 AM
Can I borrow your "truck jack", need to do some brake work this weekend?

Thats my buddies but a few weeks ago we replaced 2 broken springs on my rearaxel and man that lift is geat...like 10 ton air lift

CrewCutEnterprises
03-01-2006, 09:21 PM
Ok bed is on the truck.
Painted and the fuel hose is ran and its going great waiting on taillights and amber and red corners.

CrewCutEnterprises
03-01-2006, 09:24 PM
added the cap steel over the channel.

We also need to put down deck boards

CrewCutEnterprises
03-01-2006, 09:25 PM
4 inch flat steel

We need led corner and taillights which are all on order from ebay.....
Waiting..
Deck boards going on tomarrow

jreiff
03-01-2006, 09:45 PM
Looks good CrewCut. You have any plans for toolboxes up by the back window? A head ache rack with a beacon light would look good on there.

CrewCutEnterprises
03-01-2006, 10:12 PM
its getting a 24x24 cage out of angle and expanded metal for storage. maybe a watertight box under the bed.

Ill keep you guys posted

CrewCutEnterprises
03-02-2006, 11:51 PM
Update***

Deck boards are on, got the mowers on and it fits like a glove..

OOOOOOOOOOOOPPPS, went to put gas in it and well it came back out, that fuel filler problem is hard to deal with.

The fuel filler is level with the tank, which is a problem. Im unsure how to fix this as of right now, i have a few options though.

I will post more pictures tomarrow.

CrewCutEnterprises
03-03-2006, 09:55 PM
fixed fuel problem..

fixed deck boards.. and loaded the mowers..



here are pictures
http://www.lawnsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51611&d=1141437027

CrewCutEnterprises
03-03-2006, 09:57 PM
rear view of the truck loaded

CrewCutEnterprises
03-03-2006, 09:59 PM
Here is a shot of it towing our 16 ft trailer

jreiff
03-03-2006, 11:02 PM
Looks good. Has to feel good to have this much done.

CrewCutEnterprises
03-03-2006, 11:04 PM
Looks good. Has to feel good to have this much done.


You know it does, and being able to build to my specific needs is also great!

jreiff
03-03-2006, 11:06 PM
When does the fabrication on the ramp start?

CrewCutEnterprises
03-03-2006, 11:30 PM
Im starting next week. I need to find out what the usa ramps are made of

http://www.usaramp.com/products/saferamps.shtml

Im thinking of using angle iron. 2x2. but the hinge part is going to be tricky as i dont want the 2 pieces to be perfectly flat, i want a slight angle built into it.

Gravel Rat
03-03-2006, 11:42 PM
I would get aluminum ramps made it will cut down on the weight also it will cut back on the sore backs trying to tilt the ramps back up.

CrewCutEnterprises
03-03-2006, 11:55 PM
I would get aluminum ramps made it will cut down on the weight also it will cut back on the sore backs trying to tilt the ramps back up.


weight yea,i agree, Iwill spring assist it or something.... but aluminum is ouch like $600 to get some made.. too much for me... Not like im lifting it....

Gravel Rat
03-04-2006, 12:02 AM
It shouldn't cost you that much for aluminum as the price of aluminum is almost cheaper than steel.

Heres a site to look at www.customautotrim.com/loadingramps

SPLC
03-04-2006, 02:47 AM
Nice fab work. I'm contemplating building a flatbed dump for my '92 2500 Chevy. Would be a fun project and save some serious money. Keep the pics coming.

Fine Lines Lawn
03-10-2006, 12:07 AM
Please install some Pro-Lockers on that rig. I would hate to see those mowers become missles if you were in a collision.

iluvscag
03-10-2006, 12:10 AM
Please install some Pro-Lockers on that rig.

Good Idea. Looks like you will be ruing your truck bed real fast.:)

Envy Lawn Service
03-10-2006, 12:26 AM
I recommend Greentouch Fastraps instead of Prolockers though...

Jacob's Yardworks LLC
03-10-2006, 01:01 AM
Great idea. Everything looks awsome.

TWUllc
03-10-2006, 06:41 PM
I recommend Greentouch Fastraps instead of Prolockers though...

Straps... .

CrewCutEnterprises
03-10-2006, 08:59 PM
Its getting something to keep the mowers from moving.


But Im guess the last few posts dident read the whole thread, Its not staying open, we built gates... Yikes, that was fun

CrewCutEnterprises
03-10-2006, 09:21 PM
Ok building ramps, took 2 days, here are the hinges for the double folding gate

CrewCutEnterprises
03-10-2006, 09:23 PM
here is a shot attaching the driverssde ramp

CrewCutEnterprises
03-10-2006, 09:26 PM
Ok then to keep the angle the way we needed it, we had 12 inch pieces of angle iron with an angle built into it.

CrewCutEnterprises
03-10-2006, 09:28 PM
Get Wide!!!!!!

CrewCutEnterprises
03-10-2006, 09:31 PM
Ok here is the gate how it folds up.

The gates are HEAVY,but the 62 inch ZTR will go up them no problem.

WE then welded the tabs to keep the gate up with pins.

ALMOST DONE@#$DRTSD

Its about 740 when we finished, so i dident get anymore pictures

O and my chassis lights just came, thank god... now we can wire up all the lights

nt1
03-11-2006, 12:46 PM
Looking gooood!

Almost time to let all that hard work payoff.

yardmanlee
03-12-2006, 08:32 AM
How heavy are those gates ? and do you plan on using any type of spring assist on it ?

CrewCutEnterprises
03-12-2006, 11:23 AM
yes spring assisted... not yet.. a couple hundred pounds

DUSTYCEDAR
03-12-2006, 01:11 PM
almost there nice work

Lux Lawn
03-12-2006, 01:18 PM
Man that thing is looking good,a lot of hard work went into it.Good luck with it I hope its everything you ever wanted.

Itsgottobegreen
03-13-2006, 12:17 AM
Man I think I am just going to have to build myself one of thoses. (actually I am going to cheat and get a E-350 with a 16' box on it, then build me some ramps. So I got my own cheap version of a super lawn truck)

mcwlandscaping
03-20-2006, 11:46 PM
VERY nice work! how much did it save you making it your self over having some one else fabricating and installing one of those beds with ramps? Thanks

Mike

Looks Great!

duke99
03-21-2006, 12:48 AM
whewww.... would hate to see the bill racked up on that steel ... LOL at least a few hundred .... awsome job ... just lookin at the pics gets my head spinnin .... just got done with my aeration trailer .... with the price of steel , had to settle with wood .... GOOD JOB w/ truck bed !! and a good welder !!

CrewCutEnterprises
03-21-2006, 09:25 AM
yep price so far is 900 including wood, taillights and all steel..
not bad

Dixie Rob
03-21-2006, 08:49 PM
It's lookin great. You have some talent there!

CrewCutEnterprises
03-21-2006, 09:35 PM
It's lookin great. You have some talent there!


Thanks, we put 1 6 0 lb garage door springs on each side to make it lift easier.

We also bought a winch but havent fabed that yet.

Taillights are on, Mud flaps are on, Tag is on, Fixed the gate hanger so it holds both gates and they dont slam around.

... This weekend... Trimmer racks, CAGE...

willretire@40
03-29-2006, 04:47 AM
Are you done yet?

CrewCutEnterprises
04-01-2006, 11:39 AM
Some ALMOST finished pics

gotta put on clearance lights, weld trimmer racks and a cage on the front

I did some aeration with the truk yesterday

CrewCutEnterprises
04-01-2006, 11:44 AM
Here ya go... another shot

Tim Wright
04-01-2006, 12:34 PM
Looks Awesome.

Tim

LawnGuy73
04-02-2006, 09:16 PM
Damn that turned out really nice. How much you want to build me one?

CrewCutEnterprises
04-02-2006, 11:30 PM
Damn that turned out really nice. How much you want to build me one?


Thanks ...

Hmm, we thought about that... not sure probably 2500.00

rfed32
04-03-2006, 01:13 PM
looks great...im getting ready to go work on my trialer now after seeing that lol....but i like it a lot

Lux Lawn
04-03-2006, 01:19 PM
Man every time you put a picture up it looks better and better.

willretire@40
04-03-2006, 01:49 PM
did you ever find out how much it weighs.

CrewCutEnterprises
04-03-2006, 11:23 PM
Man every time you put a picture up it looks better and better.

God that makes me feel good

nt1
04-04-2006, 06:16 PM
Man every time you put a picture up it looks better and better.

I agree!:)

I don't remember if you had plans for a cage / basket up front. If you do, I have seen bodies similiar to yours with a shelf that extends over the cab for extra storage. That would allow you to use the bed area for just the larger items( mowers, etc.). Just an idea.

CrewCutEnterprises
04-04-2006, 09:37 PM
I agree!:)

I don't remember if you had plans for a cage / basket up front. If you do, I have seen bodies similiar to yours with a shelf that extends over the cab for extra storage. That would allow you to use the bed area for just the larger items( mowers, etc.). Just an idea.

3 steps ahead of you....

ill post back

Daner
04-07-2006, 05:00 PM
Are you still working on that thing...LOLjust kidin yaa...Looking real fine

RedWingsDet
04-21-2006, 01:00 PM
Looks good, but you should also but your logo on your doors like your white truck.

REENO
04-23-2006, 09:09 AM
Thanks ...

Hmm, we thought about that... not sure probably 2500.00
im not 2 far from u and would love A.S.A.P. 2002 GMC SIEERA. WHAT CAN U DO FOR ME? PM ME PLEASE

Itsgottobegreen
04-23-2006, 12:06 PM
im not 2 far from u and would love A.S.A.P. 2002 GMC SIEERA. WHAT CAN U DO FOR ME? PM ME PLEASE
I got a very good welder buddy who could whip you up one. Was going to buy a gmc w4500 box truck and have him make a folding ramp and beaver tail for it. (changed mine, going with a vanscaper body)

CrewCutEnterprises
04-24-2006, 12:16 AM
im not 2 far from u and would love A.S.A.P. 2002 GMC SIEERA. WHAT CAN U DO FOR ME? PM ME PLEASE

Well now that my buddy has a full time job, I doubt we would have time in the full season. Maybe over the winter we could works something out but right now We all have way to much going on. It wasnt too hard to build but it is a process.

CrewCutEnterprises
04-24-2006, 12:21 AM
I got a very good welder buddy who could whip you up one. Was going to buy a gmc w4500 box truck and have him make a folding ramp and beaver tail for it. (changed mine, going with a vanscaper body)

I was also looking at the van scapers. The ones with a beaver tail built into the box. But what price are you looking at paying?? Ive seen them for about 30k built uised but arent they like $45k new

I wish the body on mine is bigger but i also wanted 4x4 and a plowing vehicle. What kind of chassis would you put the vanscaper on?

Itsgottobegreen
04-24-2006, 01:56 AM
I was also looking at the van scapers. The ones with a beaver tail built into the box. But what price are you looking at paying?? Ive seen them for about 30k built uised but arent they like $45k new

I wish the body on mine is bigger but i also wanted 4x4 and a plowing vehicle. What kind of chassis would you put the vanscaper on?


Brand new $37,500 for a 20' box, diesel isuzi w4500, $1400 for a 40 gallon diesel tank to fuel the mowers. From carl black in GA.

Trust me I don't want to loose the ablity to plow snow. But the less pick up trucks I can use the better. The real money in snow removel is big equipment (loaders, backhoes and skidloaders) If anything I can use it to move our sidewalk equipment around.

CrewCutEnterprises
04-24-2006, 10:04 PM
Brand new $37,500 for a 20' box, diesel isuzi w4500, $1400 for a 40 gallon diesel tank to fuel the mowers. From carl black in GA.

Trust me I don't want to loose the ablity to plow snow. But the less pick up trucks I can use the better. The real money in snow removel is big equipment (loaders, backhoes and skidloaders) If anything I can use it to move our sidewalk equipment around.

keep me posted when you buy one, Why havent you gotten a switch n go yet?? As for snowplowing in our area loaders are good but we dont get alot of snow like your area, we get $125 hr plowing and $35.00 hr blowing and shoveling. whats your going rate out there??

Itsgottobegreen
04-25-2006, 12:15 AM
keep me posted when you buy one, Why havent you gotten a switch n go yet?? As for snowplowing in our area loaders are good but we dont get alot of snow like your area, we get $125 hr plowing and $35.00 hr blowing and shoveling. whats your going rate out there??

Well after on the phone today with another dealer. We might be looking into getting the switch and go body system with the vanscaper on the truck. Since a buddy of mine is getting a Chevy 5500 4x4 with the switch and go system to start a dumpster business. I could always steal one of his dumpster bodies when he wasn't looking.:rolleyes: Then run around using it on mulch jobs. Plus when my buddy gets behind, run dumpsters for him. Just trying to justify spending the money on a single purpose truck, that is used on the lowest producing income jobs. :dizzy: Still going to be a year from now before we buy one, Unless we get a couple big snow contracts. Then buy the switch and go, and a put a salt spreader on it. Then buy the vanscaper body with the snow money. Would make a great salt truck. Don't think I would plow with it. Or maybe as a back up truck. (at least get the western mounts for it) Who really knows at this point. Just got to run all the numbers.

$100 for a pickup per hour billable, $70 as sub. (every body has a plow out this way) The skids 8' protech $150, hoes 10' protech $225, loaders 14' protechs $275. Not everyone has this big equipment. Thats where we come in. (thank god for having lots of buddies with big equipment)

CrewCutEnterprises
04-29-2006, 09:36 PM
Well I recieved a **** FREE Prolocker from the people at prolockers.com***** I installed it today for the 48 inch lawn mower. I drilled a hole for the front mount into the angle iron to keep it closer to the front of the body.

CrewCutEnterprises
04-29-2006, 09:38 PM
Ok here is a shot of the leds and the mud flaps

Ill let everyone know how my crew likes the prolockers

CrewCutEnterprises
06-25-2006, 12:21 AM
Ok Folks, here it is,

I havent had any problems except on guy got stuck on the garage door springs and had to replace it.

Here is a top down view of the bed and the spacing of everything, we also can carry a push mower with the handle folded down on the rack.

CrewCutEnterprises
06-25-2006, 12:24 AM
We carry
48 inch walkbehind, and a 36 inch walkbehind
1 edger, 2 trimmer, 1 backpack blower, 1 21 push mower
5 gal gas, 2.5 gallon mix, grease gun, tool box with impact, spare blades, spare parts etc

CrewCutEnterprises
06-25-2006, 12:27 AM
another shot of the rack, noticed i havent painted it all yet, yea, im that busy... not, but maybe lazy

MMLawn
06-25-2006, 12:34 AM
Dude......you sure are proud of it aren't you? I mean all the bumping of the post you've done.... :laugh:

CrewCutEnterprises
06-25-2006, 12:40 AM
Nah, Not bumping the post per say, I could have started a new thread just so people would read it like some of the idiots here, but you've been here a while and anyone who uses search will find the thread and its all in one thread, they wont have to search multiple threads. That was my thought.

But yea i am pround of it. :) Thanks

MMLawn
06-25-2006, 12:45 AM
Now lose the mag signs and get some real lettering. It will look professional, vs. looking part-timer, weekend warrior.

CrewCutEnterprises
06-25-2006, 01:56 AM
:hammerhead: You know its sad, I have the other truck lettered. Im on the fence with selling that truck as the color is green and I wanted a white one. I know as soon as I get the truck lettered Ill find another f350/250 single cab xl to replace it.

:) I dont work weekends.:weightlifter: and Im definatly not a weekend warrior. But Maybe I will get that truck lettered. thanks for the idea

CrewCutEnterprises
06-25-2006, 02:01 AM
Hmm, Maybe something like this will work, aluminum signs on the bed, so that way if i find another truck, no big deal.

brucec32
11-21-2006, 06:19 PM
Are there places where you can buy pickup chassis trucks set up with flatbeds and ramps like this already? I am not into the mechanical nor transactional aspects of buidling a custom job like this.

CrewCutEnterprises
11-22-2006, 12:51 AM
nope all custom...

I couldent find one.

Lawnworks
11-22-2006, 07:31 AM
Jason, looked like the bed turned out really well. How is this crew working out?

brucec32
11-23-2006, 02:56 AM
Well, thanks anyway. This is the template I will use to show anyone I want to build me one. Impressive job.

CrewCutEnterprises
11-23-2006, 02:15 PM
Jason, looked like the bed turned out really well. How is this crew working out?

It worked great. The truck still runs around and piles all the leaves and hopefully will get a plow soon.

All in all im looking into an npr dovetail for the next several maintenance trucks

Lawnworks
11-23-2006, 02:30 PM
It worked great. The truck still runs around and piles all the leaves and hopefully will get a plow soon.

All in all im looking into an npr dovetail for the next several maintenance trucks

How did the mow and go only crew go?

Rons Rightway Lawncare
11-23-2006, 08:19 PM
Looking at the pictures, I wonder if the cab and bed hit at times, such as when going over speed bumps or potholes.... it looks too close to me!

I like the idea of that bed set up. I personally would have made it at least a foot wider and several feet longer, probably with a dove tail as the dove tail does give you more space on the bed to use.

My NPR has a 8 foot wide body on it and the rear axle is about centered under the length of the bed. It works well. It has a 14 foot flat section and a 4 foot dove tail. Very roomy to work off of.

The pickup truck idea looks cool. Imagine finding a older Dodge Ram with a Cummins diesel in it, a early 1990's model and doing this to it.... Those old Rams got close to 30 mpg....

Lawnworks
11-23-2006, 09:12 PM
Looking at the pictures, I wonder if the cab and bed hit at times, such as when going over speed bumps or potholes.... it looks too close to me!

I like the idea of that bed set up. I personally would have made it at least a foot wider and several feet longer, probably with a dove tail as the dove tail does give you more space on the bed to use.

My NPR has a 8 foot wide body on it and the rear axle is about centered under the length of the bed. It works well. It has a 14 foot flat section and a 4 foot dove tail. Very roomy to work off of.

The pickup truck idea looks cool. Imagine finding a older Dodge Ram with a Cummins diesel in it, a early 1990's model and doing this to it.... Those old Rams got close to 30 mpg....

Yeah I have a '94 Cummins 3500 w/ a 9' body and 4' dovetail. It fits a 60" mower and a 36" walk-behind... talk about an efficient truck. Over 300k and still running great. It is alot more efficient and powerful than my NPR box truck.

Envy Lawn Service
11-23-2006, 10:33 PM
Thanks for making mention of that.

I'll have to file away that little piece of info on the early 90's Ram's with the Cummings.
Little old for me, but you never know what you'll run across.
What was the last year of that Ram setup?

Lawnworks
11-23-2006, 10:43 PM
I would think you would want to go w/ a '94-'98. The fuel injection is alot better than a 89-93, and the whole truck is made a little bit better. I think our dodge gets about 15 mpg loaded and around. And the thing has twice the balls of an isuzu.

Rons Rightway Lawncare
11-24-2006, 12:45 AM
Dodge Rams, that had -and still have - diesel engines have always been a Cummins engine.

The older ones did not make alot of horsepower, but had decent torque. As the years went on, the engine got more and more powerful, all the way up to todays Cummins that are the most powerful engines Dodge offers in the trucks, over 300 horsepower and 600 pounds of torque.

The more power they have squeezed out of the engine, the lower the MPG has gotten. The newest ones get worse milage unloaded than the gasoline trucks, and they only hold a milage advantage pulling a very heavy trailer.

The rams that had the OLD body style, before they were redone to look like mini Kenworths, had the version of the cummins that really got good milage, high 20's to 30 mpg if driven conservatively was the norm.

Sure those are old trucks, and kind of rare these days, but who wants to chop up a newer truck to put a landscape bed on it?

If all you were going to haul is two walkbehinds and some trimmers and a so on, I think a Ranger or Tacoma, or a Nissan would make a good choice.

My Isuzu really does the job, but only getting 9 or so mpg sucks. Plus it is a stiffly sprung truck and the ride can be bouncy on uneven roads, also the cab does not have much sound deadening so it can be somewhat loud inside with engine and wind noise.

Envy Lawn Service
11-24-2006, 01:33 AM
Why didn't you get a diesel NPR?

Seems like there might have been a fuel mileage advantage, and possibly a torque advantage.
But I don't know a lot about NPR's either... so just curious.

Personally, I think a landscape truck would be neat.
But I really like using a trailer other than the length and that's rarely an issue for me.

If I were to ever go as far as to get a ton truck or larger for this purpose, I'd want a switch-n-go type system on it. Being able to drop the landscape body and pick up a dump body or some other body appeals to me.

Lawnworks
11-24-2006, 07:42 AM
Dodge Rams, that had -and still have - diesel engines have always been a Cummins engine.

The older ones did not make alot of horsepower, but had decent torque. As the years went on, the engine got more and more powerful, all the way up to todays Cummins that are the most powerful engines Dodge offers in the trucks, over 300 horsepower and 600 pounds of torque.

The more power they have squeezed out of the engine, the lower the MPG has gotten. The newest ones get worse milage unloaded than the gasoline trucks, and they only hold a milage advantage pulling a very heavy trailer.

The rams that had the OLD body style, before they were redone to look like mini Kenworths, had the version of the cummins that really got good milage, high 20's to 30 mpg if driven conservatively was the norm.

Sure those are old trucks, and kind of rare these days, but who wants to chop up a newer truck to put a landscape bed on it?

If all you were going to haul is two walkbehinds and some trimmers and a so on, I think a Ranger or Tacoma, or a Nissan would make a good choice.

My Isuzu really does the job, but only getting 9 or so mpg sucks. Plus it is a stiffly sprung truck and the ride can be bouncy on uneven roads, also the cab does not have much sound deadening so it can be somewhat loud inside with engine and wind noise.

I really doubt any 3/4 ton truck will get 30 mpg. The best engine to get is the '94-'98. The 89-93 were dogs. Fuel pump was unreliable, and hard to turn up. I don't believe these models had an intercooler which really hurts there efficiency. The 94-98s have the p-pump that is mechanical injection. I think I paid $3500 for my '94 w/ 230k... still running great at 305k.

Rons Rightway Lawncare
11-24-2006, 09:26 AM
Envy, I posted a long explaination as to why I went with gas in my Isuzu over diesel in another thread.... I will give you the mini version

1. Diesel truck cost several thousand dollars more to purchase

2. Diesel fuel around here is still about 40-50 cents more per gallon than gas

3. Diesel Isuzus are reported to only get 12 mpg, not a huge savings over the gas truck

4. Diesel Isuzu engines are not as bullet proof as some think, looking at used diesel isuzus there is alot of them out there that needed replacement of engine or tranny before 200K miles.

5. Parts and Service for Diesel engines are much more expensive and harder to get the parts and service compared to the Chevy V-8 gas powertrain.

As for horsepower and Torque, the Gas has WAY WAY WAY more horsepower... Torque on the two engines is almost tied as well, so there just isn't much advantage to the diesel on the Isuzu NPR.

Rons Rightway Lawncare
11-24-2006, 09:35 AM
Lawnworks.... I would have a hard time believing it too, but it is really simple if you think about it. Diesel engines will get great milage, but the more power you try to squeeze out of them the more fuel they will use. The older Rams with the Cummins only got like 150 horsepower and nearly 400 pounds of torque. Todays Cummins is putting out twice the horsepower and alot more torque..... Horsepower and torque are not magic, it takes fuel to make that power!

Look at a Diesel truck sold today that gets twice the milage of a gas truck.... it is on nearly every Dodge dealerships lot right now. It is called a Dodge Sprinter Van, and has a little 5 cylinder diesel engine in it. It has less than 200 horsepower and less than 400 pounds of torque and it is claimed to get nearly 30 mpg if driven conservatively. I would bet the farm that over time they will slowly boost the power of that engine and fuel milage will slowly go down the drains... but if you want a brand new truck, a heavy duty truck that gets 25-30 mpg, the Sprinter is your truck.

I almost bought a sprinter with a landscape body, but it would have been in the 34-35 grand price range minimum and I got the Isuzu for 27 grand. The fuel savings would not make up for that price difference so I am stuck with 9 mpg.

No doubt that the older trucks didn't have a intercooler. You could add one if you wanted. Fuel pumps may very well be better on some years over other years, but there is a big difference in milage once you step up the newer models. Just food for thought guys

Eclipse
11-24-2006, 10:28 AM
Dodge Rams, that had -and still have - diesel engines have always been a Cummins engine.

A little trivia fact here :)

Back in the late 70's there were a few full sized Dodge Ram's produced that had a diesel engine. It was a Mistubishi engine. It was obviouly not real popular and not many were sold but it was available.

Lawn Enforcer
12-18-2006, 09:59 PM
So how much did you spend, total? Nice bed, I would love to have that!

Envy Lawn Service
12-18-2006, 11:03 PM
I'd still love to do this to like a...
1992 Toyota 1 ton dually long wheelbase V-6.

I'd love to have a landscape and/or switch and go setup on one of those.
That would be a perfect setup for just me.

The problem is coming up with the dang truck itself.
They are real hard to come by.
I think most of them ended up being mini U-Haul box trucks.

The only one I have ever found that was just what I was looking for is just today... But this one is literally on the opposite side of the country!

Lawn Enforcer
12-24-2006, 02:43 PM
You should run a cable through that spring on the trailer, if it snaps and goes flyin' it could kill someone.

CrewCutEnterprises
12-31-2006, 11:12 PM
1 Ok, there is a cable running through the spring.

2 how could you make it 1 foot wider on a non dually?

3 no dovetail for this reason.


This crew cut over 50,000 in grass this year 15 k in leaves etc etc. It has worked very well. Who else can do leaves with there dovetail with one truck and bring a flatblower 3 backpacks a mower for mulching pushing bagging leaves and a 18 ft and 28 ft ladder, O and a leaf loader with about 15 -20 yards of leaf vac storage. We can hold between 3 to 6 (houses or jobs) in this trailer sometimes more..

O and they can load it all and go to the next site with out a truck following to vac the leaves. Im very happy as I have created a crew with out ME, and truthfully im not sure what to do now....

CrewCutEnterprises
12-31-2006, 11:17 PM
So how much did you spend, total? Nice bed, I would love to have that!

I spent probably about 1500.00 on materials, but not including time etc.. Either way im glad it works for my needs.

Also it doesnt hit the cab of the truck, or the top of the tires even when fully loaded with mowers and 3 tons of leaves

The negatives....

Gas 12 mpg
heavy gates even with the spring
...hmm thats it

CrewCutEnterprises
12-31-2006, 11:19 PM
Ok, I still dident get the truck logo'ed

So here is a rough in of the idea for the logo. I have it on my other truck and this truck i havent gotten to yet

mag360
02-06-2007, 01:17 PM
Lawnworks.... I would have a hard time believing it too, but it is really simple if you think about it. Diesel engines will get great milage, but the more power you try to squeeze out of them the more fuel they will use. The older Rams with the Cummins only got like 150 horsepower and nearly 400 pounds of torque. Todays Cummins is putting out twice the horsepower and alot more torque..... Horsepower and torque are not magic, it takes fuel to make that power!

Look at a Diesel truck sold today that gets twice the milage of a gas truck.... it is on nearly every Dodge dealerships lot right now. It is called a Dodge Sprinter Van, and has a little 5 cylinder diesel engine in it. It has less than 200 horsepower and less than 400 pounds of torque and it is claimed to get nearly 30 mpg if driven conservatively. I would bet the farm that over time they will slowly boost the power of that engine and fuel milage will slowly go down the drains... but if you want a brand new truck, a heavy duty truck that gets 25-30 mpg, the Sprinter is your truck.

I almost bought a sprinter with a landscape body, but it would have been in the 34-35 grand price range minimum and I got the Isuzu for 27 grand. The fuel savings would not make up for that price difference so I am stuck with 9 mpg.

No doubt that the older trucks didn't have a intercooler. You could add one if you wanted. Fuel pumps may very well be better on some years over other years, but there is a big difference in milage once you step up the newer models. Just food for thought guys


Fuel economy was pretty level across the field until the '04.5 model year with 20 mpg highway being the norm for an unloaded 4x4. With more power came more efficiency. I feel the '99-'02 24 valve cummins are the most efficient (as long as the lift pump and injection pump stay healthy)

Eclipse
02-06-2007, 01:43 PM
Fuel economy was pretty level across the field until the '04.5 model year with 20 mpg highway being the norm for an unloaded 4x4. With more power came more efficiency. I feel the '99-'02 24 valve cummins are the most efficient (as long as the lift pump and injection pump stay healthy)

This opens up another can of worms that I don't feel is revelant to discuss in this thread. FWIW - Out of the 12 various Cummins diesel trucks we have owned, only 3 would get 20 MPGs on the highway. I certainly would not say the norm is 20MPG's.

casco73
03-15-2007, 09:10 PM
Here is a picture of what i have to work with, Sorry it is so hard to see its out of focus and now its dark outside.

did you ever get this truck bed done if so do you have picks I'm thinking of doing the same

CrewCutEnterprises
03-16-2007, 08:26 PM
did you ever get this truck bed done if so do you have picks I'm thinking of doing the same

Well.... The motor went up in the truck.... soooooooooooo. ill get some pics for you but its been a bad week.

Marek
03-17-2007, 06:44 PM
call Butch at S&S and have him put a new Target engine in it, it works great for what you are doing with it and if you replace it your guys will just tear up the next one too.

casco73
03-17-2007, 09:53 PM
Well.... The motor went up in the truck.... soooooooooooo. ill get some pics for you but its been a bad week.

Yeah I understand just got back from plowing for two and a half days had to switch trucks i broke down In a customers drive way feul pump went and just at the time the customers daughter was late for an appointment and he's giving me ahard time because she can't get out. to top it all off two weeks ago plowing i blew the main rear brake line that runs right behind the gas tank. all I keep saying to myslf is things are going to get better-things are going to get better-things are going to get better.............................................................................................. .........................................:hammerhead: :hammerhead: :cry: :cry: :drinkup: :drinkup: :drinkup: :hammerhead: :hammerhead: :dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy: :sleeping: :sleeping: :sleeping:

TMlawncare
03-19-2007, 12:40 AM
Lawnworks.... I would have a hard time believing it too, but it is really simple if you think about it. Diesel engines will get great milage, but the more power you try to squeeze out of them the more fuel they will use. The older Rams with the Cummins only got like 150 horsepower and nearly 400 pounds of torque. Todays Cummins is putting out twice the horsepower and alot more torque..... Horsepower and torque are not magic, it takes fuel to make that power!

Look at a Diesel truck sold today that gets twice the milage of a gas truck.... it is on nearly every Dodge dealerships lot right now. It is called a Dodge Sprinter Van, and has a little 5 cylinder diesel engine in it. It has less than 200 horsepower and less than 400 pounds of torque and it is claimed to get nearly 30 mpg if driven conservatively. I would bet the farm that over time they will slowly boost the power of that engine and fuel milage will slowly go down the drains... but if you want a brand new truck, a heavy duty truck that gets 25-30 mpg, the Sprinter is your truck.



One other tidbit about the Dodge Sprinter van is that it is 100% Mercedes- benz. That says a lot about build quality and R&D in this vehicle. The only Dodge part on the whole vehicle is the logo.

CrewCutEnterprises
03-20-2007, 11:42 AM
call Butch at S&S and have him put a new Target engine in it, it works great for what you are doing with it and if you replace it your guys will just tear up the next one too.

hes quoting a jasper motor. the target is a chevy motor.

Hopefully ill fix it or trade it in.

CrewCutEnterprises
03-20-2007, 11:54 AM
5200.00 dollars



or trade in and get new truck