Shindaiwa fixed line head

[oneEXMARKfan]

Did a search on trimmer heads and line, and took the advise of some and bought a spool of Echo Cross-Fire (.095). After reading the different replies to different trimmer heads I thought I would try a fixed line head, I saw one at my Shindaiwa dealer the other day(18.00), and was just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on it, or any other brands that might be better. (Shindaiwa T-260) Thanks all!

[bob]

Ive got one. I couldn't get it to work right. The trimmer line always touched the bolt that holds the fixed head on. The bolt gets hot and the line melts and breaks. I must have been threading it wrong, but could never figure out another way to thread it.

[oneEXMARKfan]

Hmmmmm.....I see what you mean Bob. In the Shindaiwa brochure it shows one strung up, and unmounted. I see no way it could not be touching the bolt. Thanks.

[WLC]

You might consider drilling the numerous holes that the line threads through to accommodate larger diameter line. I did and thread 0.130 dia. line through. The aluminum is easy to drill and I don't change line as often. Just a tip, for what it's worth. My Shindy She Sings!

[oneEXMARKfan]

I was wondering how bigger line would work. I was thinking when I was looking at 1 at my dealer the other day, that it said it held up to .130 already. Could be wrong. I was plannnig to use this head for bigger line, for the "moster grass" i.e. 6'+ I have to cut. :-( ...need a new bump head for the reg. trimming I do....still trying to find a Green Machine head......Guess I'll have to pick up the Shindaiwa "high profile" head till then. Thanks WLC

[KillerShark]

I've got the fixed line heads on my shindaiwa's (2 T-27's).
It's all I would use now. They work great. I only use quality .095 line. I feel the .130 is too hard to work with and the gain is not that great. I cut all the line up on a 5# roll into about 24" pieces. I only put one piece on at a time although you can put two. I carry a pair of bypass pruners and when the line is ready to change, I just snip it and pull it out. I've been doing this for about 10 years and for me it's the only way to go.... just my two cents. Just try it... you might like it... I know I did.

[oneEXMARKfan]

I just got back from my dealer....I went ahead and picked up a "high Profile" manual, (another Tornado blade) and will pick up the fixed head Monday. He sold the last one yesterday.

[Paradise Yard Service]

I only use the fixed heads for my Shin, since 1985! All I do is cut 22' piece of 95 or 105 pro-quip or echo smooth. THEN TO SAVE LOTS OF TIME/HASSLE, I simply tie the line in the middle with one overhand knot and thread through opposing sides of disk. In over 16 years of doing this I can't remember a single failure of line slipping out. When done, just pull out and replace. BTW I reuse the same line by untying the middle knot, straighten out the line, tie new knot on the end and rethread. You only end up with one line on one side of the disk, so you do the same for opposing side.

You can always thread the line as directed in the instructions, but I can tell ya there is more than one way to thread a Shin!

Aloha,
P.Y.S.

[WLC]

Drilling out the holes only makes it easier to thread the larger dia. line. I'm going to have to check out Paradise's method though.

[Jr.]

I use the fixed head on my T-350. I use the .130 line when I cut rough stuff and It really works great. I had the same problem about the bolt hitting the line so I just took a screwdriver and worked the bolt and washer under the line and then tightend it up afterwards. It is a little trouble but since the larger line doesn't wear fast, it's worth it.

[Runner]

I'm lost here. Why would you opt for this setup, when just at the bump of the head, or a push and twist of the hand, you would have fresh string ready to go withOUT all the replacing. It just seems so much simpler. I run without guards, and carry pruners with me to sharpen the ends when needed. Also, don't you guys that use bigger string (.105 and up) find it to be too blunt for good clean sharp cutting?

[Jr.]

Runner, I only use the fixed head when I cut heavy stuff. I have a client that raises cattle and he has 1000 acres of fenced pasture and once a year he has me to cut the weeds and tall grass out from under his fences and spray roundup so that the electric fence will work. I tried the auto feed head but I used to much string to fast. I found that If I use the .130 string on the fixed head and used slightly longer than normal lengths, I got better results. Other than that, I always use the auto-feed head. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

[Runner]

That SOMEwhat explains it, but that's kind of what I mean; why can't you use a bump head, and just run a little shorter string - either by cutting it a little shorter, or by pushing the knob and winding a little back in. Especially if you're doing along fence, which tends to break more string off and go through more. That one thing I don't mind about fenceline, you never have to sharpen the string, just replenish it now and again. Also, I noticed in my last post I wrote something like "simpler". Now THERE'S a word!:)

[oneEXMARKfan]

Well Runner, the stuff I'm getting ready for I need the BIG LINE..... the heads I use now won't take a line that big, and I have found that the bigger stuff that will fit are rough on the spools.... can go through too many in a season.
Rather spend 18.00 once, than 10.00 quite a few times a year
(I assume not many here are not cutting monster weeds taller than me...most here only cut weekly, and turn down bi-weekly
........Some I do only get cut 2-3 times a season... Heads/diff.line for all types of trimming. *I do love the bump heads! (never tried the autos) Keep a vast array of diff. type brush blades on hand, too. [do like the .095 for a chrisp clean cut] :-)

[Edited by oneEXMARKfan on 04-16-2001 at 02:23 AM]

[oneEXMARKfan]

Went by and picked up a fixed head today. Knew I had some MEAN GREEN to cut so I got a spool of .130" line. Never would have believed it would last as long as it did. It always takes ALOT of line on this vacant lot, but with this .130" it almost made it through without re-stringing. (could have lasted longer, but around fallen limbs, fence, ect.)
Anyway, thanks to all who gave me good advise/tips in the post above, it was very much appriciated! (cutting up some pieces now for tomm...... .095, .105, and .130) Anyone ever thought about having a clear plastic tube on the trimmer shaft to hold the pre cut pieces? Like to have supplies close at hand.......(just a thought) [again thankz WLC, KillerShark, Paradise Yard Service, and Jr. :-)]

[Edited by oneEXMARKfan on 05-01-2001 at 12:18 AM]

[yorkpaddy]

i got a fixed line head for my FS-85, and put 105 in it (it was black stihl line). But i don't think my trimmer was revving fast enough to pull it right. So I guess i'll have to wait for my FS-200. Another thing, i read somewhere that when you bog a trimmer engine in, it really cuts down on its life, It was in an echo mailing. Something like every extra inch of trimmer line (when the guards are removed) pulls the RPMs down 2-500, till eveantually the engine is operating out of peak power.

[Paradise Yard Service]

YORKPATTY DON'T BOG THE TRIMMER!
Cut the line back sufficiently enough so the RPM stays all the way up. You must do this regardless of the head design you choose or the clutch is going to go.You know when the clutch is gone when the head spins at idle AND your not revving the motor. When it does this you only have maybe 1/4 of a season left B-4 the clutch assembly breaks apart altogher, and sends tiny pieces of metal through the internals of the motor. Replace the clutch and things will get back to normal.

exMARKfan, once you use the fixed line you will find it hard to switch. If you need to get in the rough, the fixed head can take all you can give it, no matter the size of line. Glad to see you got the results your looking for. You will see all the advantages of fixed heads as you go along the season. I like it for its indestructableness. And it gives a clear view of what I'm after esp. when edging (I don't use an edger, though I understand why the U.S. mainland LCOs prefer to use). Tried the bumper/semi-auto types and find my method with fixed head is as good in the ease of use and the line takes just a second to replace. I would say that it takes just as long to advance the line on the pullout models as does to change line on the fixed head version. And you must take apart the whole works to respool anyway. I have also found that some models of semi-auto heads won't unscrew without the gorilla treatment,even with the grease treatment. Needless to say I won't change my approach to this much debated subject. Happy Trimming!

Aloha,
P.Y.S.

[yorkpaddy]

I thought the head spinning at idle was related to the idle speed, not the clutch. Wouldn't it make sense for the head to have trouble spinning if the clutch was going, the head bogs while the engine maintains RPMs. The only reason I think a longer line would be harder on the clutch is if you were bringing the head to a stop often and then starting it spinning again. When your anythin just above idle, the clutch I think is engaged hard, no slippage. The article I read, said that it was hard on the engine, because bogging it heats it up since its not getting as much cooling air across the fins

[Paradise Yard Service]

Make sure idle speed is set properly first B-4 assuming you may have a clutch prob. I forgot to mention.
Yes, constant stopping-starting probably will cause premature failure,and too long of line resulting in bogging will hasten the wear-n-tear.
Aloha,
P.Y.S.

[SMB]

The main reason why these trimmers have clutches is because they're meant for brushcutters also. If you got your brushcutter in a bind, instead of potentially throwing a rod or something due to stopping so quick, the clutch will take it.

[LJ lawn]

i have one trimmer that uses a manual feed head and one with a bump. the manual one you have to loosen the screw and pull and turn the head to feed the line.after using the manual one then going back to the bump, i think i like the manual one better.the bump spools out too easily (wasting line)and jams more often with the diamond line.