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View Full Version : Synthetic oil in mowers? do you?


ProStreetCamaro
02-08-2006, 05:50 PM
How many of you use synthetic oil in the motors of your mowers? I have personaly witnessed a Buick with a V8 have over 300,000 miles on it being torn down for a freshen up rebuild. The motor got Mobile 1 every 3,000 miles and when it was torn down it was so clean you could eat off it. There was still the original factory cross hatches in the bore's and no wear ridges at the top of each cylinder. Also the bearings looked brand new and not worn down. The guy figured it was time to rebuild it but it really didnt need it at all.

Now if it works that well in a car engine I dont see why it wouldnt work wonders in a mower engine. I know mowers operate in a completely different climate with all the dirt and dust but if a person keeps there air and fuel filters clean or changed I personaly dont see how hardly any dirt could penetrate and contaminate the motor oil.



I know its a bad bad idea to switch an older higher mileage or higher hour engine over to synthetic because they can develop oil leaks. I am thinking about switching our Kawi over because it only has less than 400 hours on it.

jtkplc
02-08-2006, 05:57 PM
I use Amsoil in everything, all equipment including hand held equipment, and my vehicles. I think it's worth the investment and worth not having breakdowns as soon. The other company I work for uses cheap oil and has many, many engine problems that I think can be attributed to cheap oil. I'm all for buying the best, because my philosophy is that it will pay off in the long run.

mcwlandscaping
02-08-2006, 06:02 PM
Mobil one synthetic in everything

vanguard
02-08-2006, 06:51 PM
I'm running Mobil 1 in everything! It's cheaper then the cost of repairs and down time. payup

Jpocket
02-08-2006, 06:58 PM
I run Castol GTX Conventional oil. I change it often so synthetic would be a waste of $$$ every 2,000-3500 miles.

steve45
02-08-2006, 06:58 PM
Depends on the application. I stopped using Mobil 1 in my vehicles because every one of them developed leaks within a month of switching.

Another problem is that synthetic oil will drain off of parts faster, meaning that if you let the engine sit a few days between use, your cam will be dry.

I use a synthetic blend (Valvoline Durablend) in most of my stuff. Have 342,000 miles on my Tahoe, and oil consumption is minimal.

Lest you think Mobil 1 is the best thing on earth, consider that the FAA BANNED it (Mobil AV-1 synthetic) for use in aircraft because of so many failures. Turns out that it was not compatible with the leaded fuel used in airplanes. Like I said, it depends on the application. In fact, airplane oil might work well in air-cooled engines on mowers.

I really don't think oil is responsible for most wear in engines, dirt is. Keep a clean air filter on the engine, make sure there are no leaks in the intake system, and change the oil frequently.

wriken
02-08-2006, 09:25 PM
I use 10-30 full syn supertech, in the mowers, Generac, kohler and kaw's engines. 80-100 hours between oil/filter change.

trentslawncare02
02-08-2006, 10:11 PM
Have used convent. Castrol GTX for over 10 yrs...no engine failures yet. Have a 27hp liquid cooled Kaw in an Exmark Lazer Z with 2400+ hrs. Oil remains clean for 50 hrs...engine still uses NO oil at all...have done nothing other than adjust the valves as recomended!!

I THINK THE BEST THING FOR YOUR ENGINES IS FREQUENT OIL CHANGES...REGARDLESS OF OIL TYPE....AND MAKE SURE YOUR AIR FILTRATION SYSTEM IS CLEAN AND SEALED!!!

ALarsh
02-08-2006, 10:29 PM
I use mobil 1 synthetic in the mower. Change it every 100 hours.

General Landscaping
02-08-2006, 11:18 PM
Proper maintenance is most important.

Synthetic is even better with the high temps generated in our engines.

Even with regular oil, engines outlast equipment regularly. It's a matter of good PM and operator care.

jgtxusa
02-09-2006, 12:50 AM
I use Mobil 1 in my expedition, but use rotella 15-40 in everything else. I mean everything. Change riders every 50 hours, wide area mower every 100 hours, and little ones every two weeks. I have had problems with the little kawasakis, but it is from knocking off air boxes and stuff like that. No oil related failures that I can see. We have two trucks with almost 400000 miles and two more with 250k+ all used rotella every 5000. Good oil.

Jpocket
02-09-2006, 08:13 AM
Like I stated a while back in a privious thread, If you change you oil frequently or atleast when recommended you don't need synthetic. Everything I own keeps CLEAN conventional oil in it, some of the motors have lasted well beyond there expected life.

6'7 330
02-09-2006, 08:35 AM
Like I stated a while back in a privious thread, If you change you oil frequently or atleast when recommended you don't need synthetic. Everything I own keeps CLEAN conventional oil in it, some of the motors have lasted well beyond there expected life.

I agree, our mowers accumulate a lot of hours, so oil changes are once a week any way.The way I look at it,changed that frequently dino is just as good.We have accumulated as many 4000- 4500 hours on many air cooled engines,using nothing but conventional dino and frequent air filter changes.Now it's another matter for the hand held's, For the two cycle equipment, I'm believer in amsoil, the nectar of the two cycle god's lol.

geogunn
02-09-2006, 08:42 AM
The motor got Mobile 1 every 3,000 miles and when it was torn down it was so clean you could eat off it.

I am thinking about switching our Kawi over because it only has less than 400 hours on it.

I thought the change interval was much longer for synthetic oil...like I thought it was 15,000 miles...........

and I guess I missed it in the kawi-kholer thread but you don't expect that kawi to run much longer, do you?

GEO :confused:

DEEJ
02-09-2006, 09:25 AM
Personally I see no need to use synthetics in a mower, or any other engine, if proper maintenance is done.

Don't get me wrong, I do use it in some of my vehicles in the winter so they will crank and start at -35F. That is the only reason I can see to use it. Some of the engines get one change of synthetic oil for the Jan-Feb time period, then back to conventional oils. (and no there is nothing wrong with swapping back and forth, despite the myths!)

The leakage and burn rate with sythetic oil in the crankcase (on older engines) is incredible. My diesel Jetta consumes (one way or the other) so much more oil with Mobil 1 15W50 in the crankcase. With 610K on the machine, and conventional oil in the 5 quart sump, it uses about a 1/2 quart between oil changes. Pretty damn good at 20 years old with that mileage.

I have to agree 100% and then some with comments above from Trentslawncare and General Landscaping. Dirt is the biggest killer, and most all of it comes in through the intake!!! Clean air filters, care when changing them, and REGULAR oil changes with most any oil, will make an engine outlast the equipment it is mounted in.

Mobil 1 used to say in their "Myths about Synthetic Oil" section of their site that even synthetics must be changed at the same intervals as conventional oils. Dirt is the problem, not the oil breaking down. Yes conventionals break down faster than synthetics, but they both collect dirt at the same rate. The conventionals DO NOT break down in the time it takes to accumulate a regular oil change.

I have a buddy with a Chevy 2500HD 6L with Mobil 1 in the sump. The lifter noise at startup is painful to listen to. It goes away quick, but it is there. The synthetic runs out of the lifters. This does not happen when we put conventional oil in the truck, but he "heard" the synthetic is better.

Regular oil changes do not mean every day! Regular means reasonable intervals taking into account the manufacturer's recommendations and the conditions the engine is run in. For me 50 to 100 hours for the small equipment and 3000 miles for the vehicles. You want to see some reliable high mileage vehicles and equipment, step right over here. I never have oil related failures.

Synthetic oil would do nothing for me but increase the cost of oil changes. It offers no benefits to me (other than very, very cold starting).

deej

kleankutslawn
02-09-2006, 10:03 AM
i was curious about this myself.it seems to me like so many other things on here,its just a personnal preference.

kc2006
02-09-2006, 11:51 AM
I thought the change interval was much longer for synthetic oil...like I thought it was 15,000 miles...........

and I guess I missed it in the kawi-kholer thread but you don't expect that kawi to run much longer, do you?

GEO :confused:

The normal recommended interval is 5,000 miles. That 15,000 mile is the new thing from mobil one i believe. I've never used it and I don't plan on it.

I don't run synthetic in the mower because I change it regularely so theres no need for me. Yes it will probably help but considering I will get rid of a mower when the engine is getting old, it won't benefite me. You'll have an engine last you twice as long on a mower that requires X amount of dollars to maintain because the mower can only last so long before having regular breakage issues.

As for trucks, my diesel I run conventional, only because 14 quarts times 5 dollars a quart would be extremely expensive. If I go gasser, I might switch it over to synthetic since it won't be as costly and would be worth it.

Just because an oil looks clean when you drain it, doesn't mean that its not broken down. And remember, synthetic oils are harder to breakdown with gas/water.

Little experiment. Buy a quart of cheap oil, stuff thats under a dollar. Get a quart of what you use, and get a quart of synthetic. Get an old pot and put alittle of the oil in and heat it over the stove, time it to see when it starts to crackle, all oils will crackle over heat at a certain point. Garuntee the synthetic will take the longest. Next experiment, pour alittle oil on the ground, spray it with brake cleaner, see which one is the hardest to break down....take a guess. :waving:

When it comes to picking oil for my race engines, I always do the heat test. An old racer taught me that. For conventional oil, we've found that sometimes the cheaper brands are better then the expensive high dollar conventionals.

MBDiagMan
02-09-2006, 12:44 PM
How many of you use synthetic oil in the motors of your mowers? I have personaly witnessed a Buick with a V8 have over 300,000 miles on it being torn down for a freshen up rebuild. The motor got Mobile 1 every 3,000 miles and when it was torn down it was so clean you could eat off it. There was still the original factory cross hatches in the bore's and no wear ridges at the top of each cylinder. Also the bearings looked brand new and not worn down. The guy figured it was time to rebuild it but it really didnt need it at all.

Now if it works that well in a car engine I dont see why it wouldnt work wonders in a mower engine. I know mowers operate in a completely different climate with all the dirt and dust but if a person keeps there air and fuel filters clean or changed I personaly dont see how hardly any dirt could penetrate and contaminate the motor oil.

I know its a bad bad idea to switch an older higher mileage or higher hour engine over to synthetic because they can develop oil leaks. I am thinking about switching our Kawi over because it only has less than 400 hours on it.

Odds are that if the Buick had regular 3,000 mile oil changes with a premium Dino oil it would have been in the same condition. I have a neighbor with a 90 model GMC pickup that has had faithful 3,000 mile oil changes with plain old Valvoline and is now well over 400,000 miles and has never been apart. That engine sounds and runs as good as ever.

Where synthetic MAY pay off is with extended oil change intervals.

Good luck,
Doc
Certified ASE Master

skeetz
02-09-2006, 01:07 PM
I use amsoil in everything that needs oil. Every independent test has proven
that amsoil is far superior to conventional oil. Plus amsoil is 100% american made, no need to import oil from the middle east. If just half the people in the USA would switch to synthetic oil, there would be no need to import any oil!! Amsoil can be purchased at wholesale prices by becoming a preferred customer. Have you read the headlines lately, "Mobil records record Profits" there not making oil, just selling what they import from other countries. Amsoil also makes superior filtration product. I don't know about you but I'm sick of paying $2.50 for a gallon of gas, when we don't have to . This expensive oil and gas prices are cutting into any profit and I would like to change the way we think.

Doug Z.
02-09-2006, 02:06 PM
I used to use amsoil in my 99 GMC, and never had any problems with that. They say that you can go 10k miles between, but the most i did was 6k. This year, I'm switching almost everything over to Amsoil, My pickup, my wifes blazer, John Deer 345, Kubota 3130, and my 88 ghvey c70. I will also be switching over my mix oil, but not until I run out of the Stihl stuff I have now. The only things that im not swithing, are the small engines, and my old dump-sont plan on using it enough. I've been using Amsoil grease on everything for 5years now, and have had no problems with any thing. I have afriend, whose brother races stock cars at a local track. He runs all Amsoil. Every other racer is repacking the bearings every other race, he "checks" his about every 5th, with not needing to change them through out the year.

skeetz
02-09-2006, 02:14 PM
Amsoil has oil that go 25,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first)between oil and filter changes. It cost me less than 50 bucks a year on each of my vehicles(2005 yukon and 2001 ford f250) when I switched my ford over it actually got better gas milage. I switched all my power and lawn equipment over, I can't believe how much better they run and how easy they start.

kc2006
02-09-2006, 02:15 PM
If you plan on running oil for upteen thousand miles, I suggest sending samples here to see whats going on.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html

Blackstone tests are great, that'll tell you if your oil is breaking down due to gas or if your having excessive ring wear/bearing wear.

lwcmattlifter
02-09-2006, 02:33 PM
I'm willing to bet a good HDEO 15W-40 oil like Delvac 1300 or Rotella will hold up as well as synthetic, in a small air cooled engines at 50 or 100 hr change intervals

jtkplc
02-09-2006, 02:48 PM
I'm going to be purchasing Amsoil for my diesel truck in a month or so, and I'm also getting the by-pass filtering system where every 40 miles you get an "oil change" because the by-pass filter filters down to 1 micron. I will never have to buy 13 quarts of oil for every oil change. Every 30,000 miles I will replace the by-pass filter and add in a quart of oil that was in the filter and send in an oil sample for analysis just to make sure everything is working fine.

Ky.Smoke
02-09-2006, 06:34 PM
Mobil 1 Syn in everything.

Edgewater
02-09-2006, 06:47 PM
Good old regular castrol here. Anyone that leaves synthitic longer is fooling themselves. The main reason to change oil is that it gets dirty, not the breaking down of the oil.

Yes, if you run the oil 20,000 miles it will start to break down, but long before it breaks down, it will be full of the by-products of combustion. Oil builds acid and gets some fuel that gets past the rings. This is what causes the need for an oil change at 5,000 miles. The egine does not know what oil it has, just keeps making it dirty

jtkplc
02-09-2006, 07:27 PM
My dad used to work for Amsoil and I had him read some of these posts. I'm not trying to sound like I know it all because I certainly haven't got a clue about oils and engines and stuff like that, but he does. I have to say there are many of you that need to learn a lot more about engines and synthetic oils and how they work and how they are different from conventional oils, before you come on here talking about them. If I can, I will have my dad post what he knows...:waving:

skeetz
02-09-2006, 08:11 PM
Oil and filtration have come a long way! Anybody who still goes by the 3000 mile oil change hasn't done his homework. Having 12 service vehicles to maintain(as well as a lot of lawn equipment), we change the oil once a year and now with the new technology, we change the filters once a year also. We've had the used oil tested and the results came back with flying colors. I really don't care what oil people use, but I think if you educate yourself, you probably woudn't use the BIG oil brands. Also check out these sites from the FTC about what the big oil companies don't want you to see. www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/05/duralub2.htm or www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/10/valve/htm
Wow, I got to go, gas just dropped to $2.49 a gallon!

MBDiagMan
02-09-2006, 08:20 PM
Good old regular castrol here. Anyone that leaves synthitic longer is fooling themselves. The main reason to change oil is that it gets dirty, not the breaking down of the oil.

Yes, if you run the oil 20,000 miles it will start to break down, but long before it breaks down, it will be full of the by-products of combustion. Oil builds acid and gets some fuel that gets past the rings. This is what causes the need for an oil change at 5,000 miles. The egine does not know what oil it has, just keeps making it dirty

Now here is a man that understands exactly why oil is changed! It is the ONLY method that you have to keep the crankcase clean. Although synthetics are often run longer than dino oil, more frequent oil changes with a premium oil will keep the contaminants from ruining many portions of your engine.

The ultimate would be running synthetic but changing it at a frequent interval just as you would dino oil.


One more thing, I saw a post in this thread where someone believes that if we all used synthetic oil we would not be importing any oil. To that person, do you have any idea what synthetic oil is manufactured from? Check it out.

Have a great day,
Doc

skeetz
02-09-2006, 08:51 PM
The avg. person who owns a car changes his/her oil 3-4 times a year(12-25 thousand Miles). That's 15-20 quarts of oil a year(for a 5 quart engine, some now are taking up to 9 quart). Synthetics one change a year, 5 quarts. Looks like a 10-15 quart less oil a year minimum. Millions of cars(trucks,mowers, power eqip.etc) lot less oil. It's about consumption, not how synthetic oil is made. Plus a cooler running engine better MPG.

Guthrie&Co
02-09-2006, 09:20 PM
I use amsoil in everything that needs oil. Every independent test has proven
that amsoil is far superior to conventional oil. Plus amsoil is 100% american made, no need to import oil from the middle east. If just half the people in the USA would switch to synthetic oil, there would be no need to import any oil!! Amsoil can be purchased at wholesale prices by becoming a preferred customer. Have you read the headlines lately, "Mobil records record Profits" there not making oil, just selling what they import from other countries. Amsoil also makes superior filtration product. I don't know about you but I'm sick of paying $2.50 for a gallon of gas, when we don't have to . This expensive oil and gas prices are cutting into any profit and I would like to change the way we think.
i hvae personally experinced amsoil greatness buy a fully sponsered fully filled with amsoil hooters cup car. the rear end was toast in 52 laps at pensocola florida. after the rear end came back from lp gear the report showed excessive heat due to oil. the new winter quick change rearend lists race ready for close to 5 grand

jtkplc
02-09-2006, 09:28 PM
i hvae personally experinced amsoil greatness buy a fully sponsered fully filled with amsoil hooters cup car. the rear end was toast in 52 laps at pensocola florida. after the rear end came back from lp gear the report showed excessive heat due to oil. the new winter quick change rearend lists race ready for close to 5 grand

So that's why the Corvette and Viper come from the factory filled with Amsoil, because it's crap? I don't think so...

Greybeard
02-09-2006, 09:30 PM
We run synthetic in our air-cooled equipment on the advice of a lubrication engineer. He said the smaller gas engines have narrow oil passages, and benefit the most from the synthetic. Also, the oil is part of the cooling system in the smaller stuff, and the syn flows better so it cools better. I have tried syn in the trucks, but went back to dino, as we didn't notice a boost in mileage or power. I am more comfortable with changing a good brand of oil and filter (usually Havoline) at 3000 miles. Never had a oil-related repair. We just sold a truck with 211,000 miles because it was rusting off the frame. Never added a drop of oil.

Guthrie&Co
02-09-2006, 09:44 PM
So that's why the Corvette and Viper come from the factory filled with Amsoil, because it's crap? I don't think so...
where did you ' hear ' that from? Sorry pal i will stick with what i have experinced and my knowledge on knowing what it takes to go racing. and it damn sure aint amsoil.

Edgewater
02-09-2006, 09:46 PM
Today, people keep trying to make simple things complicated. My 04 Chev truck has a computer to tell me when to change the oil. Why do I need a computer to calculate oil change intervals based on engine revolutions, running temp and idle time. Just look at the odometer when the number matches the little sticker from the lube place, or the numbe you wrote down after the last change, dump the oil again.

I bought my truck with 30,000 KM on it. It had a change just before i got it. I let it go 12,000 KM before changing it. The little indacator still did not say that it was time, but the oil was black and filthy. I flushed the engine and now every 5000 KM the oil comes out nice and brown.

Same goes for those stupid indicators that tell you when to change your air filter based on the volume of air that jas passed through them. Mine showed that the air cleaner was 50% yet on visual inspection it was as black as the rubber seal around the edge, and that was in the winter, not even driving throug the dusty supply yards in the summer.

All that to say, when trucks today cost 30K and up, why count on a computer to tell you that your oil is good for 20,000 miles/KM. for the cost of the oil and filter vs the service life of the truck, it's a no brainer.

OK i'm off the soap box.

jtkplc
02-09-2006, 10:03 PM
where did you ' hear ' that from? Sorry pal i will stick with what i have experinced and my knowledge on knowing what it takes to go racing. and it damn sure aint amsoil.

I gave bad information, they come filled with synthetic, not necessarily Amsoil, sorry for the confusion...

Guthrie&Co
02-09-2006, 10:13 PM
Oh ok i understand ya now

siclmn
02-10-2006, 12:01 AM
Don't all of you think that it is in the best interest's of any oil company to sell you the more expensive oil? They make more money that way. That is the real reason BMW Mercedes Corvette ect. come with that oil. If you can afford the car the price of oil is not an issue. We are running lawn mowers not high revving sport cars. These are not jet engines with high temperature concerns. They are lawn mowers. The biggest concern is keeping the oil clean and making sure the air filter works perfectly and doesn't let dirty air in. If you have perfect oil and the air filter lets any dirt in you still loose the engine. A lawnmower engine doesn't need syn. oil!

General Landscaping
02-10-2006, 12:23 AM
We are running lawn mowers not high revving sport cars. These are not jet engines with high temperature concerns. They are lawn mowers.

When was the last time your sports car got wound up to 3600 RPM for 6 hours a day? Make no mistake, our little engines are getting put through hell.

When was the last time your mower engine got over 220 degrees? Try about 5 minutes after firing it up. Automotive engines would be baked to a crisp at the temperatures we are running.

In most cases, engines are only called on to operate at max RPM and HP for brief periods of time. Industrial (mowing)and Marine applications are almost as hard as race conditions.

lance1
02-10-2006, 07:34 AM
I use a synthetic blend in my equipment. I can get Trop Artic 10w30 for $1 at the dollar store. It's SM rated so it meets tough standards for it's cleaning abilities and shear resistance. If you want longer oil change intervals on your equipment keep the air cleaner clean (service every day or two and keep the spark plug fresh. This will ensure less unburned fuel in your oil. IMO then you can safely follow the recomended service intervals with less expensive oils.

MBDiagMan
02-10-2006, 09:15 AM
Today, people keep trying to make simple things complicated. My 04 Chev truck has a computer to tell me when to change the oil. Why do I need a computer to calculate oil change intervals based on engine revolutions, running temp and idle time. Just look at the odometer when the number matches the little sticker from the lube place, or the numbe you wrote down after the last change, dump the oil again.

I bought my truck with 30,000 KM on it. It had a change just before i got it. I let it go 12,000 KM before changing it. The little indacator still did not say that it was time, but the oil was black and filthy. I flushed the engine and now every 5000 KM the oil comes out nice and brown.

Same goes for those stupid indicators that tell you when to change your air filter based on the volume of air that jas passed through them. Mine showed that the air cleaner was 50% yet on visual inspection it was as black as the rubber seal around the edge, and that was in the winter, not even driving throug the dusty supply yards in the summer.

All that to say, when trucks today cost 30K and up, why count on a computer to tell you that your oil is good for 20,000 miles/KM. for the cost of the oil and filter vs the service life of the truck, it's a no brainer.

OK i'm off the soap box.

Now here's a man that will not be replacing vehicles/equipment prematurely due to lack of maintenance. The man changes things when he knows they need changing, not because the makers say they can go a certain number of hours or distance before changing.

The manufacturers stretch the intervals as far as they can for marketing reasons. They want to make it look as if it requires less maintenance than the competition.

Change oil hot and change oil often,
Doc

DFW Area Landscaper
02-10-2006, 10:11 AM
I got suckered into buying the Mobil 1 Gold 15,000 mile oil. We are putting about 8,000 to 10,000 miles per year on the F-150's.

I own six vehicles and for whatever reason, I have decided that it is just as fast for me to change my own oil as it is to drive to a place and wait for them to do it. Plus its a lot cheaper. Plus, I like to look around and visually inspect everything every so often. Plus, there are too many oil change places that overtighten the filters.

So, for me to change the oil on 4 F-150's, my Nissan and the wife's Expedition, it is pretty much an all day project. 42 quarts of oil and my drain pans dictate that I have to leave in the middle of the project to go dump dirty oil.

So if I can get away with just one oil change a year on the F-150's, I'm all over it.

When I noticed that Mobil 1 Gold was good for 15,000 miles, I thought that was the right oil for me. It's insanely expensive...the oil for an F-150 is about $50. My mechanic doesn't recommend going that long without an oil change, but he did say that if I'll change just the filter every 3,000 miles, that should help keep pressure from building up on the seals and causing leaks. So I figure I will drive over to the storage unit where we park our vehicles and change the filters around May and then again in August. Then, once a year in the winter, I will drain the oil and change the filter.

I think that ought to work for the F-150's.

For the Honda mowers and the chipper: We use 10W-30 SuperTech from Wal-Mart. The oil is changed every week. But this year, I purchased 5 extra foam air filters for each machine. They will be changed daily and then they'll all get washed and oiled when the oil is changed.

I think putting a clean air filter on every day ought to make them last. I agree, with these small engines and they dusty environments in which they operate, dust is the enemy...not oil break down. If you waiting long enough between changes that the oil is starting to break down, the dust has already done far more damage than viscosity break down could.

Later,
DFW Area Landscaper

ssgreg
04-03-2006, 04:22 PM
Good choice

ssgreg
04-03-2006, 04:27 PM
Now here is a guy that is making sense not just talking BS

topsites
04-03-2006, 04:30 PM
Synthetic racing blend because it's cheaper than full synth, I pay right under 2 dollars / quart for it.

It's just as good, I ran the oil out of my car when I forgot to tighten the oil filter correctly... Five miles later I pulled over because of smoke and loud ticking. Fixed the leak by thightening the filter, then drove the car across the street to the auto-parts store and added 3 quarts of synth.blend. That was 40 thousand miles ago, no problem.

Far as frequent oil changes vs. expense, my equipment runs all year on one oil change.
18-wheelers run a million miles on synthetic before changing.
Gasoline engines, 100k miles they say (but I change mine twice a year, just in case).

Which is more expensive, you ask?
If you run standard oil you should wait until you seize an engine, then you can tell me about it.
Far as standard oils go, it doesn't matter what the bottle says, it's either standard or synth (/blend), and if it's standard, the best Castrol GTX is likely no better than the store brand.

topsites
04-03-2006, 04:37 PM
I think putting a clean air filter on every day ought to make them last. I agree, with these small engines and they dusty environments in which they operate, dust is the enemy...not oil break down. If you waiting long enough between changes that the oil is starting to break down, the dust has already done far more damage than viscosity break down could.

Later,
DFW Area Landscaper

This is why I say I am no longer willing to run my machines into the dirt. I understand dust happens even in the best of yards, but today I categorically refuse to accept yards that are mostly dirt instead of grass (and there are more reasons, but this is one of them). The dust literally gets into everything and it eats moving metal surfaces alive.
If, however, the customer is willing to pay me to make the place look right and nice, then that is a different story.

dcplace2004
04-03-2006, 04:42 PM
the other guy said that the synthetic runs off the parts...it does not run off the parts any more than the dinosaur juice does...I run many miles on my vehicles before I change the mobile 1 I put in them...as far as amsoil goes, I don't know about that oil or the mix ratio on it but people rave about it...they have 15,000 mile synthetics out there and I don't have time to change the oil every 3k miles...isn't it nice for the oil change shops for people to bring their vehicles in to get scammed every 3k miles...up here they got caught charging disposal fees of at least 2 dollars an oil change...businesses pay them for the used oil!!!! Unbelievable? Nope, but they stopped doing it after if was shown on the news stations...

SKAT LAWN
04-08-2006, 10:30 PM
mobile 1 syn runnig in 23hp kaw....doing great

Soupy
04-08-2006, 11:49 PM
I use amsoil in everything that needs oil. Every independent test has proven
that amsoil is far superior to conventional oil. Plus amsoil is 100% american made, no need to import oil from the middle east. If just half the people in the USA would switch to synthetic oil, there would be no need to import any oil!! Amsoil can be purchased at wholesale prices by becoming a preferred customer. Have you read the headlines lately, "Mobil records record Profits" there not making oil, just selling what they import from other countries. Amsoil also makes superior filtration product. I don't know about you but I'm sick of paying $2.50 for a gallon of gas, when we don't have to . This expensive oil and gas prices are cutting into any profit and I would like to change the way we think.


I use Amsoil too, but I believe Amsoil buys their stock from Mobil.

This is what I use in the mowers................

gqnine44
04-09-2006, 12:03 AM
Amsoil in everything. Even mix is Amsoil. Oil changes twice a year in trucks and once a month or so on mowers. Never had a problem. Synthetic is the ONLY way to go.

Evergreenpros
04-09-2006, 01:21 PM
I use synthetic in everything but I extend my oil change intervals out to 5k-7500 miles using better filters as well.