PDA

View Full Version : SCH 80 Nipples Warning


PurpHaze
02-09-2006, 12:07 AM
Came across an odd problem today. One of the valves we were changing out was a 1-1/2" valve. When we got our latest supplies our supplier was out of the normal 1-1/2" TOE nipples we use so he substituted 6" nipples threaded on both ends. So I cut off one of the threaded ends on each nipple and voila, it's now a TOE nipple like we've done many, many times before. I thread the nipples into the valve and then proceed to glue the inlet nipple into a slip coupling coming off the main line. Uh, oh... feels REAL loose but I let it set up for about 20 minutes and then try and turn it with a pair of Channel Locks. Sucker pops right out of the fitting. Seems that the threaded ends meet IPS standards but the OD on the thing as a whole is smaller. I'll be taking these back for sure. Rummaged around in my truck and found a set of our usual TOE nipples and they glued right up first time.

Dirty Water
02-09-2006, 12:13 AM
Odd, we cut nipples in half to make two TOE nipples instead of buying TOE ones and we havent had that problem.

PurpHaze
02-09-2006, 12:20 AM
I've never run into it before either and I've used many thousands of the suckers. I don't know what brand they are becasue they were plain. When I take them back (probably not until next week) I'll try and find out who manufactured them.

PurpHaze
02-09-2006, 12:21 AM
Odd, we cut nipples in half to make two TOE nipples instead of buying TOE ones and we havent had that problem.

BTW... While you're cutting your nipples we're already glueing the valve in place and DBYing the wire to the valve. :p

Wet_Boots
02-09-2006, 12:49 AM
When you roll your own TOE nipples by cutting a regular nipple in half, make certain you are using MACHINED sch 80 nipples, and not molded ones. The difference between the two would cause that loosey-goosey TOE nipple that just falls out. Molded nipples only have to have correct threads, and not a perfect pipe OD. (ask for machined nipples by name!)

PurpHaze
02-09-2006, 09:20 AM
When you roll your own TOE nipples by cutting a regular nipple in half, make certain you are using MACHINED sch 80 nipples, and not molded ones. The difference between the two would cause that loosey-goosey TOE nipple that just falls out. Molded nipples only have to have correct threads, and not a perfect pipe OD. (ask for machined nipples by name!)

Veeerrrrryy interesting. These nipples do have a "molding tit" in the center of them. However, I've cut molded ones before without OD problems sometimes even primering the "molding tit" to soften it so I can take a knife and cut it off if it's where I need to glue. :dizzy:

Personally, my favorite SCH 80 nipples are Spears since they have a "lead in" before the threads begin and are very easy to start into the FIP threads. However, unless I want to buy tons of nipples especially for us then I'm kind of at the mercy of the supplier.

SprinklerGuy
02-09-2006, 10:19 AM
Dammit boots..I wanted to say that!

I always say "extruded" vs "molded" myself ;)

Or
Shiny and not shiny

Or
Looks like pipe, looks like not pipe

Or
Dark grey vs lighter grey

Or
Shiny as hell vs not quite as shiny

PurpHaze
02-09-2006, 10:10 PM
Dammit boots..I wanted to say that!

You gotta get up earlier Tony if you want to beat The Bootster to the punch. :laugh:

PurpHaze
02-09-2006, 10:35 PM
Another problem encountered on this repair site. Had three valves to replace on the football field. Pretty straight forward since they were a straight 2" in/out of the valve with room to use slip fixes on the lateral ends. Got them all done just before lunch and let them set up during lunch. Went back to set the boxes after lunch and there's water leaking out of one of the slip fixes (one on the right in the picture) through the telescoping slide. This zone had a slight amount of water from the sprinklers seeping back towards the valve because it does a crowned portion of the field.

Only time I've ever had one leak before is when someone installed one and didn't make sure the soil was compacted well under it, allowing the slip fix to bend to the pressure and leak. This wasn't the case because there is no stress on the valve and slip fix whatsoever. Changed the whole slip fix/90 combination out and everything worked fine. Did note on the original one used that it slid in/out REAL losely. Gonna check tomorrow to see if there really is an O-ring in that one or if maybe there's something else noticeable.

Anyway... I just added the bad one to the repair tally. $2700 in the ground so far and I figure another $900 before we're done. At least we can see the light at the end of the tunnel and may be able to turn the water back on tomorrow to the major part of the field.

Dirty Water
02-10-2006, 01:40 AM
That second valve could have been easily repaired without a slipfix at the 90?

We use slipfixes all the time, I've never seen one fail once its properly restrained. Seen a few that were in valve boxes shake the pipe around good though.

PurpHaze
02-10-2006, 09:25 AM
That second valve could have been easily repaired without a slipfix at the 90?

Actually Jon when I had to do it the second time I did come out and only use a 90. I was tired of hassling with things the first repair and opted for the slip fix. Even though things are open for the repair I was still working with 2" pipe and there's not a whole lot of give on a short run. Gotta watch it or the main line tee might crack and then I have to do a lot more digging. After I cut the slip fix away I checked to make sure it was fully extended which it was. Thought maybe I blew the length cuts and didn't get it fully extended but that wasn't the problem either.

We use slipfixes all the time, I've never seen one fail once its properly restrained. Seen a few that were in valve boxes shake the pipe around good though.

Like I said, this was a first for me. Just glad that I decided to stop for lunch instead of buttoning things up first. :)