View Full Version : Hunter Master Valve
02-19-2006, 07:01 PM
I have a property with 135 psi.
I'm installing mainly MP Rotators. I have to regulate operating pressure to about 30 psi to stay within the percipitation rate I've chosen for the nozzles. The MP Rotator nozzles fluctuate in their percipitation rates based on psi at the nozzle, even though they are called matched percipitation rate nozzles.
I was going to install a Hunter ICV valve as a master valve, and then install the Hunter Accu Set Pressure Regulator accessory onto the valve to regulate pressure within the whole system and control water hammer.
Has anyone done this before. Thanks.
02-19-2006, 07:29 PM
We typically use something like this:
We install it right after the backflow (using brass not male adapters).
The main reasion for this over a pressure regulating master valve in my opinion is that there is a lot more to fail in the hunter valve.
02-19-2006, 07:50 PM
The brass pressure regulator can have a much greater flow loss than a pressure regulating diaphragm valve does. (there's some 'fine print' to a PR performance chart) I've used an Omni-Reg module on a Hardie valve, and gotten a good result. The concept is straightforward enough, with the regulator affecting how much the valve will open. But with everything else selected carefully, a fixed brass regulator will be simpler, and keep everything 'stock'
What if you just used the Rainbird 1800 popup bodies with the built-in 30 psi regulators?
02-19-2006, 09:36 PM
I've used an Omni-Reg module on a Hardie valve, and gotten a good result. The concept is straightforward enough, with the regulator affecting how much the valve will open.
We had one site built that used the Omni-Regs on Irritrol valves (same as Hardie because they were the predecessor) to combat high pressure from a booster pump on smaller sprinklers and they performed OK. Problem occurred that the regulators allowed the valves to experience "weep by" creating muddy spots at the sprinkler heads so we took them off all the valves. Everything works fine without them but we're not talking about an original 135 PSI. I'd opt for the brass pressure regulator in the fashion Jon suggested. Just my personal taste because then you're reducing the pressure at the first available spot.
02-19-2006, 11:32 PM
I saw the brass pressure regulator you show and agree it appears to be a stouter approach than the Hunter master valve however do you know if you can adjust the brass valve to an exact pressure, and does it have a port to read the pressure with a guage. Thanks. Also I didn't use the Rainbird pressure regulating heads so I could reduce water hammer just after the backflow.
02-20-2006, 09:28 AM
Brass pressure regulators with a port to read pressure aren't standard issue. Easier to plumb your own port for reading pressure. A brass pressure regulator won't offer a precise pressure at varying flows in your sprinkler system, because the pressure loss through the regulator has to be figured in. More commonly, you'd set the pressure for around 70-80 psi, which would protect sprinkler heads and valves from excess pressure. The first time you use one, I'd recommend doing a flow-and-pressure test after you install the regulator. It will be very likely that you will have less useful flow than you'd expect.
I installed the Hardie-with-OmniReg as a replacement for the combination of an indoor brass pressure regulator and outdoor (conventional) master valve when I added a zone of sprinklers to a property, along with updating the backflow protection to an RPZ. Getting rid of the old brass pressure regulator provided much more usable flow, which not only overcame the extra pressure loss from the RPZ, but it allowed me to combine two existing zones of lawn sprinklers and run the new sprinklers from the valve I 'freed' up. No leakage observed, but only the master valve had the OmniReg, the zone valves were Richdel jartops. The pressure-regulating master valve did its job of giving me a regulated mainline pressure, regardless of flow.
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