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Mike M
02-20-2006, 09:35 AM
I have a nice little 5 x 10 Mid Atlantic open trailer w/ 15" wheels. Only problem I've had is that the deck of my Exmark Metro HP 48" bottoms out and sometimes gets caught on the metal lip (which holds down the boards) just before the gate hinge.

Last season I tore it off (it was bent, rusty, and weak at that point), and just let the boards bounce around a little. So far no problems, but the boards are a little sloppy. Anyone else ever had this problem/what should I do?

Thanks,

Mike

jim dailey
02-20-2006, 09:46 AM
Mike; You have to lessen that angle at the intersection of the gate and the bed of the trailer. Stick a couple of blocks of wood UNDER the end of the tailgate while it is down, and try running the mower up onto the trailer. See if that will work for you. Another is to change the size of the tires and the rims. A little bit of expense there. Smaller wheel set-ups will lower the body of the trailer and lessen the angle. Lastly, you could raise the height of the mower to overcome the angle. All in all, I think the blocks of wood would work the best. Experiment with different sizes of wood, and when you find the right combination, attach them to the OUTSIDE TOP of the tailgate, permanently.

nobagger
02-20-2006, 10:09 AM
Mike; You have to lessen that angle at the intersection of the gate and the bed of the trailer. Stick a couple of blocks of wood UNDER the end of the tailgate while it is down, and try running the mower up onto the trailer. See if that will work for you. Another is to change the size of the tires and the rims. A little bit of expense there. Smaller wheel set-ups will lower the body of the trailer and lessen the angle. Lastly, you could raise the height of the mower to overcome the angle. All in all, I think the blocks of wood would work the best. Experiment with different sizes of wood, and when you find the right combination, attach them to the OUTSIDE TOP of the tailgate, permanently.
I have this same problem. My Dad had the same suggestion, to use blocks of wood on the ramp to lessen the angle. It does one more thing also, the blocks give you a couple of inches of clearence when lowering the ramp-no more smashed fingers.

Ol'time Lawncare
02-20-2006, 10:18 AM
I have a nice little 5 x 10 Mid Atlantic open trailer w/ 15" wheels. Only problem I've had is that the deck of my Exmark Metro HP 48" bottoms out and sometimes gets caught on the metal lip (which holds down the boards) just before the gate hinge.

Last season I tore it off (it was bent, rusty, and weak at that point), and just let the boards bounce around a little. So far no problems, but the boards are a little sloppy. Anyone else ever had this problem/what should I do?

Thanks,

Mike
weld a 2 inch angle on the edge of the gate . that will fix everything! if you don't have a welder , then just bolt it up.

Mike M
02-20-2006, 11:02 AM
I like the block idea; but what do you mean by welding the 2" angle? Do you mean attaching metal at the end to raise the gate up a little (like the block idea)?

Thanks, guys

Mike

MMLawn
02-20-2006, 11:40 AM
Actually it is even easier than that. Simply push down on the WB handle bars when right at the top of the ramp and the mower deck (which the bottom of the spindles/blades and deck is what is catching) will /liftrise above the lip and then gentlely release back down on the bars once it clears. Very easy and effortless to do.

Ol'time Lawncare
02-20-2006, 01:06 PM
I like the block idea; but what do you mean by welding the 2" angle? Do you mean attaching metal at the end to raise the gate up a little (like the block idea)?

Thanks, guys

Mike
Yes, thats what i mean. this is a common problem. you only need a couple of inches clearance, so the 2 inch angle would be prefect.

Justcutitshort
02-20-2006, 01:46 PM
weld a 2 inch angle on the edge of the gate . that will fix everything! if you don't have a welder , then just bolt it up.

You'll still have the lip to get caught on, unless you weld the angled part underneath, which you really can't. All you need to do bolt an metal strip on the edge of the wood to stablize the wood and let the mower roll over the end of the wood.
We did that with both our trailers, works great and hardly wears.

Mike M
02-20-2006, 05:08 PM
Okay; everything into consideration...

I'll bolt a metal strip about 5" before the end of the boards to keep the boards from warping up and bouncing around. This way the spindles and deck or whatever is catching can slide over the wood.

Next, I'll also play with the wood blocks to see how high the gate must be to avoid any contact of my mower deck or spindles.

I've tried doing wheelies with the WB but it catches anyway.:cool2:

captken
02-20-2006, 08:37 PM
I had that problem. [severe gate angle] I would pull a wheelie when trailering my Hustler Walk...I had no problem....however,
this situation came to a head when a worker trailered my Hustler W/B, with the blades engaged, didn't preform the wheelie maneuver.... blades contacted that piece of metal you talk about, sparks flew! Ruined blade edge! Much cursing later....!

solution: [If you can afford it] over the ["poor boy"] method of using wood blocks...simply.....Lengthen the lift gate!

I removed the metal that you are referring too and discarded it.
Then, I had a welder friend fabricate a new lift gate. [NEW LIFT GATE 1 foot longer]
He then installed angle iron to replace what I took out, that holds the boards down, that you talked about.
This gate is 1 foot longer. I have had no problem since.
The boards were replaced last Winter, and it was easy to do, without the piece of metal I did away with.
hope this helps,
kenny

captken
02-20-2006, 08:39 PM
Okay; everything into consideration...

I'll bolt a metal strip about 5" before the end of the boards to keep the boards from warping up and bouncing around. This way the spindles and deck or whatever is catching can slide over the wood.

Next, I'll also play with the wood blocks to see how high the gate must be to avoid any contact of my mower deck or spindles.

I've tried doing wheelies with the WB but it catches anyway.:cool2:

Mike, this is not the solution.

lawnspecialties
02-20-2006, 11:31 PM
Does your truck have a hitch or do you use the bumper? If you have a hitch, turn the hitch (the insert with the ball) upside down. You'll obviously need to re-install the ball. This will lift the front of the trailer, thus lowering the back.

Not enough but close? Get a new hitch that has a lower angle. Then turn it upside down. If this works, its an easy fix.

captken
02-20-2006, 11:54 PM
Does your truck have a hitch or do you use the bumper? If you have a hitch, turn the hitch (the insert with the ball) upside down. You'll obviously need to re-install the ball. This will lift the front of the trailer, thus lowering the back.

Not enough but close? Get a new hitch that has a lower angle. Then turn it upside down. If this works, its an easy fix.

This will work too....what is your tow vehicle?

Mike M
02-22-2006, 10:47 AM
My trailer leveled nicely at this point. I'm driving a grand cherokee with a class III hitch. I think the ideal fix is a longer gate. Easiest fix may be the block idea.

Another solution: I'm having a new home built with a two car garage, with no middle support. The reason I got my 5 x 10 was to fit in my older detached garage. If my business expands a little, I'll just sell the trailer and look for bigger and lower trailer or one with a longer gate.

Besides catching my deck, I always feel like I'm Evil Knievel when I'm loading my wb onto the trailer (when wet, belts slip at low speed). Sometimes I have to back off and try again, of course, jack-knifing my sulky like an idiot. (Someday a new hydro to replace the belt drive, too.)

Thanks,

Mike:usflag:

Andyinchville
03-03-2006, 11:48 PM
Hi,

Easiest fix may be to just pop a wheelie before it snags....I've had to do this on a few occasions....not too hard actually....If this happened with a zero turn, the block method under the tailgate works or I simply drive and find a better / more level place to unload...

Andrew