PDA

View Full Version : Spring Start up


drsogr
02-27-2006, 12:59 PM
I had a customer that I have done alot of landscaping for call and ask me to start up his irrigation system while I was there to plant another tree.

How do I do this? Is there anything more than plugging in and programming the module? I plan on making sure all of the sprinkler heads are functioning properly. I was curious if there was something I am missing. I know irrigatation people charge for this service all of the time. I plan on charging him...not sure how much though.

Dirty Water
02-27-2006, 10:04 PM
Turn on the backflow device slowly. Walk the property looking for leaks.

Once that is done, locate the timer. Make sure the schedule is set properly. Run each zone. Look for leaks, broken heads, or heads completely out of adjustment (Sometimes the winterizer guys pull nozzles to speed it up the process...make sure all nozzles are installed).

Once thats done, double check the timer to make sure its set to RUN, and your done.

PurpHaze
02-27-2006, 10:31 PM
I'm kind of wondering if it just might be a little too early for Kansas. We can get hard frost into May and although midwest winters have been milder recently who knows what can happen. :confused:

Flatbed
02-27-2006, 10:41 PM
Don't forget about testing the backflow.

bicmudpuppy
02-28-2006, 12:49 AM
I'm kind of wondering if it just might be a little too early for Kansas. We can get hard frost into May and although midwest winters have been milder recently who knows what can happen. :confused:
Me TOO! They are announcing burn bans. It is dry enough to be scary, and the new gig has LOTS of landscape stuff out there that might be in jeopardy from a warranty stand point. To energize or not to energize? If that rodent had been in KS on the 2nd of Feb. I promise you there were NO shadows that day, but that doesn't mean I believe you can actually move the solstice. The answer is if I turn those systems on, the Ides' of March will smite me and I will be winterizing again!

BUT, if a residential customer wants to sign an waver and pay for a turn on...........Far be it from me to argue that the customer isn't always right. BTW, winterizing in March is expensive ;)

PurpHaze
02-28-2006, 09:07 AM
So you're saying that we actually agree on something? I'm writing this one down on my calendar. :laugh:

drsogr
02-28-2006, 10:25 PM
Turn on the backflow device slowly. Walk the property looking for leaks.

Once that is done, locate the timer. Make sure the schedule is set properly. Run each zone. Look for leaks, broken heads, or heads completely out of adjustment (Sometimes the winterizer guys pull nozzles to speed it up the process...make sure all nozzles are installed).

Once thats done, double check the timer to make sure its set to RUN, and your done.

Thanks for all of the help. Can someone enlighten me and tell me how to test the backflow device?

drsogr
02-28-2006, 10:26 PM
Me TOO! They are announcing burn bans. It is dry enough to be scary, and the new gig has LOTS of landscape stuff out there that might be in jeopardy from a warranty stand point. To energize or not to energize? If that rodent had been in KS on the 2nd of Feb. I promise you there were NO shadows that day, but that doesn't mean I believe you can actually move the solstice. The answer is if I turn those systems on, the Ides' of March will smite me and I will be winterizing again!

BUT, if a residential customer wants to sign an waver and pay for a turn on...........Far be it from me to argue that the customer isn't always right. BTW, winterizing in March is expensive ;)

I am guessing a lot of people are going to want it turned out quickly with the almost 80 degree weather and the burn ban. Yards are looking dry!

Dirty Water
02-28-2006, 11:18 PM
Thanks for all of the help. Can someone enlighten me and tell me how to test the backflow device?

I'm pretty certian that in kansas you have to be certified to test a backflow device.

It should be up to the client to have their backflow tested...not you.

PurpHaze
03-01-2006, 09:27 AM
Thanks for all of the help. Can someone enlighten me and tell me how to test the backflow device?

You need to be a certified tester and have the proper equipment. Here's a link to the definitive manual on cross connection protection.

http://www.epa.gov/safewater/crossconnection.html

Flatbed
03-02-2006, 12:19 AM
I'm pretty certian that in kansas you have to be certified to test a backflow device.

It should be up to the client to have their backflow tested...not you.

In Iowa, it is the person who starts the irrigation that is responsible for the backflow test. It should be tested before water is ever put into the system. If hasn't been tested, you shouldn't be turning it on. If water is contaminated they could come back on you for not having it tested.

bicmudpuppy
03-02-2006, 12:31 AM
In Iowa, it is the person who starts the irrigation that is responsible for the backflow test. It should be tested before water is ever put into the system. If hasn't been tested, you shouldn't be turning it on. If water is contaminated they could come back on you for not having it tested.
umm, uhhh, well..............
You can't dry test it. You have to turn the water on to test it or you don't know if it works or not. I'm splitting hairs, I know, but I hear it stated this way a lot and it ads to the confusion. Many times, I do the entire system walk through before testing because flushing water through the device and getting everything "wet" increases the pass ratio. Want to fail a check valve? Shut off number two and then add water. Then test without opening number two. If the device has been off long enough to be dry, it will fail. You can even let the customer watch you fail the device. On the few competitors I know of who do test, this is a favorite tactic with new customers to bill a backflow repair up front with the new service. They like to imply who ever was the previous tech didn't actually do a test.

PurpHaze
03-02-2006, 09:12 AM
You can even let the customer watch you fail the device. On the few competitors I know of who do test, this is a favorite tactic with new customers to bill a backflow repair up front with the new service. They like to imply who ever was the previous tech didn't actually do a test.

This is like any repair work profession. We know we could fail many aspects of an irrigation system in order to drum up business. Those that are honest don't while those that are scoundrels, well ... :nono:

Flatbed
03-03-2006, 11:20 AM
umm, uhhh, well..............
You can't dry test it. You have to turn the water on to test it or you don't know if it works or not. I'm splitting hairs, I know, but I hear it stated this way a lot and it ads to the confusion. Many times, I do the entire system walk through before testing because flushing water through the device and getting everything "wet" increases the pass ratio. Want to fail a check valve? Shut off number two and then add water. Then test without opening number two. If the device has been off long enough to be dry, it will fail. You can even let the customer watch you fail the device. On the few competitors I know of who do test, this is a favorite tactic with new customers to bill a backflow repair up front with the new service. They like to imply who ever was the previous tech didn't actually do a test.

I am not trying to confuse anybody. Any service tech that tests backflows knows what I am talking about. I run water into the main line too. I am just saying you shouldn't be running a system day after day if a test hasn't been performed.

KCLandscape
03-03-2006, 12:38 PM
Ive had calls for turn ons. Have one scheduled for the 15th. Here in KC it was the driest January and possibly warmest ever. Have been seeing qiute a few established evergreens showing sighs of not surviving. And a ton of boxwood installed last season that are toast. With spring less than 3 weeks away and little rain in sight I might take the risk of a freeze or two in order to get some water down.

Jason Rose
03-03-2006, 09:00 PM
Here in Hutch I don't see too many people NOT watering. Many with city water and PVB's have turned theirs as well. I had one I worked on today that has a backflow preventer that was ON all winter! How and why it didn't freeze and break is beyond me... Only thing I can figure is that the leaks in 3 valves close by kept the water moving just enough so it didn't freeze solid.

Grass around here (well, ALL plant-life) is dying. Truf that hasn't been irrigated just crunches under your feet, breaks off and blows away. The whole 20% chance of rain saturday is a joke. We need about 12". Forecast for the next 5 to 7 dosn't even look like it's supposed to freeze at night even though day temps are a little cooler, less than 80, LOL!

MOlawnman
03-24-2006, 10:23 PM
umm, uhhh, well..............
You can't dry test it. You have to turn the water on to test it or you don't know if it works or not. I'm splitting hairs, I know, but I hear it stated this way a lot and it ads to the confusion. Many times, I do the entire system walk through before testing because flushing water through the device and getting everything "wet" increases the pass ratio. Want to fail a check valve? Shut off number two and then add water. Then test without opening number two. If the device has been off long enough to be dry, it will fail. You can even let the customer watch you fail the device. On the few competitors I know of who do test, this is a favorite tactic with new customers to bill a backflow repair up front with the new service. They like to imply who ever was the previous tech didn't actually do a test.

True, it has to be wet to test. However, I will disagree with the statement that if the device has been dry, then it will fail. That implies that when it is new out of the box, which is dry, then it will fail. I fail very few of the devices I test and certify. Some of the devices are removed for the winter and re-installed in the spring, and they still pass.

All rpz's and dc's must be tested with the number two shut-off valve closed.

As far as letting the customer see me fail the device, my customer's wouldn't even know what the test resdings are.

Like I said, my pass ratio is very high. The main reason a device fails, around here anyway, is dirt and crap in the service line that fouls a check.

I will leave it at that.