PDA

View Full Version : Walker Maintenance Schedule


Turf Tamers
02-27-2006, 06:35 PM
Can anyone e-mail me a complete maintenance schedule for my Walker. Its a 1997 MT. Has new motor, just changed the starter and gear box! Send info to Turftamers@triad.rr.com.

jblawns123
02-27-2006, 07:39 PM
You can get complete manuals with everything you want on their website.

David Grass
02-27-2006, 08:21 PM
Never service the Hydros. They have gone to a "dont open em ever" policy, and mine now have close to 3000 hours on them. Lots of grease points on a walker. check the 90 weight in the Gear drive outside the hydros.

green acres lawns
02-27-2006, 11:20 PM
Never service the Hydros. They have gone to a "dont open em ever" policy, and mine now have close to 3000 hours on them. Lots of grease points on a walker. check the 90 weight in the Gear drive outside the hydros.
Thats because they have gone to synthetic oil in the hydros. I changed the oil in mine at 1000 hrs and put mobil 1 in them. I have about 1700 hrs on it now. It works fine except for the v-belt slipping at times, I need to change the pulleys to use the newer micro-groove belt to solve that problem.

MOW ED
02-28-2006, 08:21 AM
Just curious about the don't service the hydros advice. I have a 2000 Walker and I have changed hydro oil once a year at the end of the season. It came with Mobil 1 and I have used the same on every change. I am not saying that I am doing something right or wrong but my belief is that I will continue to change once a year for the following reasons.
Synthetic oil just like conventional is not immune to dirt. I know the system is supposed to be closed but if you look at the system it really isn't completely closed. There are small vent holes in the cap and I know dirt shouldn't get in but some always does. Reason 2 is that even though it is a tight system all oil has some breakdown and formation of impurities just by the heating/cooling process inside a system, bigger Z's have a filter system but Walker doesn't. It may not be major but it does eventually affect the oil quality. Reason 3 is that it is relatively easy to change the oil. Reason 4 is that small particles of metal can be found in the oil over time because of the metal to metal contact in the system, this metal can cause premature wear if the oil is never changed, once again no filters in the Walker system.
I know it may seem like overkill but I have yet to have any problems doing it this way.
Another fluid to change is the gear drive which is 90W. I put synthetic in there too. Another thing I always find interesting is that every year I change it I always find the magnetic plugs have plenty of shavings clinging to them. So in closing my long dissertation I personally find it necessary to change these fluids once a year, your results may be different but so far this works for me. Good Luck.

jblawns123
02-28-2006, 09:08 AM
Mow Ed...

Yes you are right.... But you are more likely to get dirt in the system removing the cap and doing the change than leaving it closed. The only crap that will be in the oil is from metal wearing, and being synthetic, there will be next to none.

I changed my 98 once just to put mobil 1 in it.

Green Acres...

I had the same slipping problem, They have an updated pulley kit, 2 pulleys and a belt. The pulleys are both larger, doesn't change the ratio but allows more surface area of the pulley to belt and eliminates slippage. Also make sure the idler arms with the springs are freely moving, well lubed and have a good spring on them. To put thins kit in you need to remove the engine, there is NO other way. BUT, I had my engine out in 15 minutes, very simple process. And at that time you can give the cooling fins a good cleaning, maybe use some electrical spray on your connectors and starter and di-electric grease all of them. You should be pulling the motor once a year to do this anyhow.