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neversatisfiedj
03-01-2006, 11:49 PM
I used Keystone COuntry Manor today for the first time. What crap. I set one with a dead blow and cracked it in half. Very disappointed for a 10.00 a square product. I'll use Hanover Chapel Stone next time.

UNISCAPER
03-01-2006, 11:52 PM
The reason you had the trouble is you should not have to hit it with a dead blow hammer. Country Manor is 50% of what we install and I'll admit that you need to know the little tricks, but it is far from crap. Asthetically and used in a structural sense, there are no walls that can go 8' that look as nice.

If you oaiud $10.00 a square foot they must charge more on the east coast for it, we pay 8.05, and .21 per pin.

MJM landscaping
03-02-2006, 12:13 AM
Ya I like it alot. I pay $11.00 a sq ft. plus pins.

neversatisfiedj
03-02-2006, 08:25 AM
No offense guys , but it SH*& . I go versa-lok everytime I can. Best product on the market ;)

Henry
03-02-2006, 10:28 AM
We use country manor often and never have a problem with it breaking. We have received blocks that were way off on thickness though.

bigviclbi
03-02-2006, 01:20 PM
Try EP HENRY Coventry wall. Looks the best, but its 14-15 dollars a sq. ft. They just introduced Coventry Plus for higher walls.

neversatisfiedj
03-02-2006, 01:38 PM
Yeah Ep henry nice product but the priciest also. In that range I stick with Hanover chapel stone for 12.oo a square.

GreenMonster
03-02-2006, 02:02 PM
In these colder temps, if you whack any block too hard it's gonna break.

Bill, why don't you need a dead blow? We typically whack all at least to some extent on the base course.

LANDSCAPER30
03-02-2006, 03:49 PM
Keystone here goes for 8.00/ block under 250 sq ft and 7.40 /block over 250 sq ft. Pins are .25 each. I have installed many Keystone walls and I believe they are a really great product. They make a heck of a solid wall.

neversatisfiedj
03-02-2006, 10:13 PM
I have laid othe rKeystone product and they are a good product but the country manor is junk. I knew this would start some fuses. I did not care for it and that is my .02. They don't have to worry about getting my $$

UNISCAPER
03-02-2006, 10:40 PM
We use a system of rails and a trolley and compact gravel between them for base. When we pay the block it is perfectly level and does not need to get whacked. If you have to whack the block with a dead blow, the base is not 90% and you run the risk of settling sooner or later.

Squizzy246B
03-03-2006, 12:03 AM
We use a system of rails and a trolley and compact gravel between them for base. When we pay the block it is perfectly level and does not need to get whacked. If you have to whack the block with a dead blow, the base is not 90% and you run the risk of settling sooner or later.

Bill, the back of my old Ford is currently full of Keystone Blocks...does that mean its now a heavy duty anchor???.

Seriously, have you ever thought about using a soft jawed grab on the mini to handle the blocks?.

UNISCAPER
03-03-2006, 01:24 AM
We've used clamps before, the problem is with pin alignment. You can easily place 4 blocks in the clamp. The pins are murder to align. If it was a lipped or channeled wall the clamp works great.

Squizzy246B
03-03-2006, 04:16 AM
We've used clamps before, the problem is with pin alignment. You can easily place 4 blocks in the clamp. The pins are murder to align. If it was a lipped or channeled wall the clamp works great.

Bill, are you OK?...you didn't say anything about my Ford.

"channeled wall" - Please Explain?

We were just picking the blocks off the pallet with the mini and stacking them on the wall in front of the guy laying them. I'm going to put a thin cord on the leg of the hinge clamp so the operator doesn't have to get off the machine to let go of the block...but I have to make it safe so he doesn't garrot somebody or inadvertently drop a block on my head...still working my SRW system out...I've got the gear but need to make it work for a three man team.

Q: If I'm all setup, how many blocks a day can you lay...bearing in mind we rarely have the behind wall compaction issues you sometimes experience...being sand sand and more sand.

Q: Whats Allan Block like to use

neversatisfiedj
03-03-2006, 09:32 AM
Bill are you referring to "speed base" Is that what you have or do you just set up metal rectangle screed forms ?

UNISCAPER
03-03-2006, 10:46 AM
I'm referring to speed base, Never.

Squizzy:

Yer talking about blue bubble heads again! A channled wall system is what Unilock uses on it's walls. Bascially, you got yer male and you got yer female parts. You take yer block and ya lay it with the female part facing down. Kinky huh? Then you laythe lnext block over the top, and it will have the female parts down, and the male part will be sticking up ready to recive the female part when you lay the next course of wall on top. A wall that has lipps on the back is flat on top and bottom, no male or female parts, just a lip at the back. You just whack and stack, and this wall will have a 9° batter or so engineered right into the system.

I think you will have trouble with a clamp and a pinned wall system. The pins are going to be too hard to hit the holes on the top block, but check it out yourself.

Squizzy246B
03-03-2006, 11:03 AM
Yer talking about blue bubble heads again! ROFL:)

A channled wall system is what Unilock uses on it's walls. Bascially, you got yer male and you got yer female parts. You take yer block and ya lay it with the female part facing down. Kinky huh? Then you laythe lnext block over the top, and it will have the female parts down, and the male part will be sticking up ready to recive the female part when you lay the next course of wall on top.

Yep, don't have them here but have seen them on the East Coast.

A wall that has lipps on the back is flat on top and bottom, no male or female parts, just a lip at the back. You just whack and stack, and this wall will have a 9° batter or so engineered right into the system.

Yep, we build one called Garden Wall, small blocks, very basic.

I think you will have trouble with a clamp and a pinned wall system. The pins are going to be too hard to hit the holes on the top block, but check it out yourself.

We were never going to actually position the blocks on the pins with the Ex but we will give it a try. We can put limestone blocks on a dime but they are easy because they weigh in at 550lbs. All I am trying to do is (bearing in mind we havent done a SRW over 3' yet) put the blocks out on the wall when the only access for the pallets is from the low side. Just trying to speed things up and reduce labour. When we build MRW the Ex picks direct from the pallet and drops them on the wall...or my foot occaisionally.

Marek
03-06-2006, 07:14 PM
how much does the system cost that sets the block with the mini x?

Squizzy246B
03-07-2006, 12:22 AM
how much does the system cost that sets the block with the mini x?

Marek, we use friction/gravity clamps on our blocks for Mass retaining walls. After the clamp you just need a chain, that all there is to it...and a good driver. We have a boom extension for our Kubota that gives us more reach. Almost all the blocks we lay are over 140lbs so if a machine can't do it...we don't do it. The most popular machine here for building walls is a skid...but its ridiculous...a mini ex kills a skid for laying blocks.

You can find a few pics in my second post on this page:

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=121110