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AlleganyLawnCare
03-24-2006, 03:13 PM
I was wondering what some of here would estimate this property at. How many man-hours also. I like to have others double-check me every now and then. Something like a QA check. Thanks!

.5 hr of picking up branches/twigs
1 hr of blowing out leaves and picking them up
trimming 40' of sidewalk
hand trim 80' on the inside edge of a mulch bed
running a lawnvac (24" width) on approx. 2000sf
rolling the grass (approx. 2000sf)
mulching 1055sf 1" deep
gravel laying(med. river pebble rock) 650sf 1/2" deep
garvel laying (small river pebble rock) 96sf 1/2" deep
seeding (Scott's Pure premium heat & draught) 200sf
delivery of gravel and mulch approx. $100

AlleganyLawnCare
03-24-2006, 05:06 PM
to let you know, I figured roughly 13.5 man hours and approx. $915 (for materials and labor). Does this sound about right?

chriscraft
03-24-2006, 06:48 PM
Bad idea to roll a lawn without aerating it 1st , youre pushing dirt into dirt , kind of like putting 2 gallons of milk in a 1 gallon container. you might want to consider this and let the customer know. Its also a good way to get another service form him, otherwise i would talk him out of the roll.

AlleganyLawnCare
03-24-2006, 07:56 PM
thanks chriscraft. didn't think about that. I will mention it to him tomorrow. Do you feel my price is about right? Too high? too low?

All_Clear
03-24-2006, 09:41 PM
Bad idea to roll a lawn without aerating it 1st.

Is this how most of you are doing it? I would have thought it was the other way around. I don't do either but seems @ss backwards to me. I do agree that both should be done from everything i've read... But if you aerate first then roll your still just smashing it back down taking the air out.... correct me if i'm wrong.


All_Clear

JLL25
03-24-2006, 09:59 PM
I was wondering what some of here would estimate this property at. How many man-hours also. I like to have others double-check me every now and then. Something like a QA check. Thanks!

.5 hr of picking up branches/twigs
1 hr of blowing out leaves and picking them up
trimming 40' of sidewalk
hand trim 80' on the inside edge of a mulch bed
running a lawnvac (24" width) on approx. 2000sf
rolling the grass (approx. 2000sf)
mulching 1055sf 1" deep
gravel laying(med. river pebble rock) 650sf 1/2" deep
garvel laying (small river pebble rock) 96sf 1/2" deep
seeding (Scott's Pure premium heat & draught) 200sf
delivery of gravel and mulch approx. $100

Double the mulch, you want mulch 2" deep. This is pretty standard around here, you get a good coverage with more of a guarantee of no barespots. My rule of thumb is you should be able to bury your middle knuckle on your middle finger. Good luck!

procut
03-24-2006, 10:12 PM
Is this how most of you are doing it? I would have thought it was the other way around. I don't do either but seems @ss backwards to me. I do agree that both should be done from everything i've read... But if you aerate first then roll your still just smashing it back down taking the air out.... correct me if i'm wrong.


All_Clear
I agree with all_clear. Aerrating first makes no sense, it should be done afterwards.

AlleganyLawnCare
03-25-2006, 07:08 AM
on the mulch, the client only wants to dress up the current level of mulch. so he only wanted 1" put down.

JLL25
03-25-2006, 06:44 PM
on the mulch, the client only wants to dress up the current level of mulch. so he only wanted 1" put down.

O I C.......

chriscraft
03-26-2006, 12:13 AM
um actually it does not make sense . yuo ahve to actually do both to see waht works. It makes no sense to to try to compact compaction, it serves no purpose. so pushing dirt into dirt to lvl it especially if it solid makes no sense, does no good and is a waste of time to you and money to the customer. and if yo uthink by rolling the lawn after you aerate it is going to fill up those (81 holes per sq yard) 3/4" by 4" deep holes, lol you are using a roller like the one i saw on mega machines on discovery channel last week. They cost like $1,000,000.00 and are used at mining complexes, they can crush a school bus. after you aerate then roll you will give any high places a place to settle into to, you will still have 81 big holes per sq yard you can stick youre finger in, trust me try it on your home, aeration holes stay open form 10 days to 10 weeks depending on soil conditions. so if you roll within a few days of aeration it is impossible IMPOSSIBLE to compact the soil, for it is uncopacting for the next 10 days to 2 weeks after you roll it. rethink your posts and you will see the light or better yet actually try doing it we have done over 500 and they always work .

chriscraft
03-26-2006, 12:29 AM
Just so you know guys im not trying to be curt, or rude . We only roll lawns if customer wants a smoother lawn for asthetics and we have done both ways, It does no good unelss moist and aerated, yo uneed both b4 hand. and for the rennovations it plants the top layer of seed into the plugs so well , it actually prevents wash out seed dispersement form wind and from the birds, plus it covers up the seed in the holes from aeration,but in no way closes up the holes, the plugs are still on top of the seed just flattened, almost like a hydroseed affect, i have a phot of b4 and after Look at my post 3-13-06 HOWS IT LOOK?, under the rennovation section you wil see b4 and after photos of a non watered empty lot we did for an advertising shoot these were undoctored and actually taken 4 weeks apart, we aerated 4 times, 8lbs custom mix, starter fert , and topdressed, then rolled, only water it got was from rain. We get better results on homes because they actually water after we leave

jsf343
03-26-2006, 01:29 AM
Hey chriscraft, forgive me for asking you to explain to me, I was reading this post with some interest and trying to learn something new. (we don't do this service but may somewhere down the road)I like seeing how others do this.
So what you are saying that you guys do is in this order....
1. you mow short, I am assuming
2. thatch
3. overseed, starter fert., overdress
4. then roll (aerate, for rooks who havn't done this, like me)
is that your process?

chriscraft
03-26-2006, 05:19 PM
BASICALLY YES, IF PH IS LOW YOU CAN ADD LIME. or in our are due to high clay content we use calcium sulfate. We generally dont dethatch as we feel in most instances it is detrimental to the lawn, and is waste of our time and the customers money. You need to realize that the bulk of customers (not all) that want a rennovation , restoration whicj is just an overseeding on steroids, have no thatch, have no lawn to speak of, (thin weedy) so dethatching doesnt seve much of a purpose. It does loosen up the soil a bit but on the whole throwing seed on top of dirt doesnt do very well. it dries out, it blows away. wind washout, birds and insects get it. But , we guarantee our customers every hole we make will grow new tufts of grass, thus we aerate 4 times, 4 times as many holes , 4 times as many new plugs of grass, We guarantee our work or money back (ALL OF IT) I just got another job same thing an hour ago and he asked me if he drove up in a month in the driveway would i recognize my lawn? I said if it looks the same or still not good ill give you 100% refund.Im doing hes cleanup this friday, and rennovation saturday, but he cant afford the topdressing (SIGH) i do have that thread in here with pictures of a lot i did on 3-13-thread called HOWS IT LOOK