View Full Version : Syringing Revisited

Critical Care
04-13-2006, 10:34 PM
Just curious how many of you have, or will program controllers for syringing?

I just have one piece of property that I feel may benefit from it. I see a possible downside to doing this, which is having to make special trips out to the place to either turn the syringe program on or off.

04-13-2006, 10:40 PM
I utilize syringe cycles every day. Provided I couldn't syringe, I would have a lot of customers seeing red and not brown!

Dirty Water
04-13-2006, 10:43 PM
I disagree with syringing. It can possibly create a enviroment for disease in the lawn.

04-13-2006, 11:30 PM
I have never heard of the term, please enlighten.

Jason Rose
04-13-2006, 11:31 PM
The thought here with the syringing daily is to actually knock the dew off the grass which actually allows it to dry faster. Drying it out faster MAY help to prevent brown patch...

Same theory, only not just a short shot of water is to actually water 7 days a week. Theory here is that the cool water every day keeps the temperature of the grass lower than what brown patch incubates at.

I had a commercial property owner subscribe to the above theory last year. he had the controler set 6 days a week starting at 6:00 PM (yes in the evening) I was livid about the whole thing and was CERTIAN this lawn was going to have every disease in the book... It did have some odd patches and some fungal growth but there was never a full blown outbreak of brown patch! Nevermind the fact that I didn't have brown patch , bad, on ANY of my other lawns either... Every time it would crank up and start spreading we would get a rain and a cool spell for a few days and it would subside!

Jason Rose
04-13-2006, 11:36 PM
I have never heard of the term, please enlighten.

syringing is typically used on golf greens and is the application of a small amount of water to the grass to cool the grass on hot days. On a golf green that may need to be done every couple hours on a 95 to 100+ degree day.

This practice on regular turf can be detrimental because the water droplets being on the grass in the heat of the day can actually "burn" the leaves. It can really damage landscape plants and trees to have water hitting the leaves in the sunlight on a hot day... Iv'e seen small trees and shrubs KILLED this way...

Az Gardener
04-14-2006, 12:16 AM
I use syringing as a method to get Bermuda varieties to fill in bare spots. I never do it for more than 2-3 weeks in a row. It combined with fertilizer can really fill in the bare spots quickly. If I don't get the problem areas filled in in that time frame I go back to a couple of weeks of regular irrigation. Then back to the syringe cycle.

04-14-2006, 08:39 AM
The main reason I use syringe cycles is to cool the turf-grass canopy due to excessive soil temperatures. Typical soil temps from mid May to Oct range from a low of 90* F to as high as 115* F as measured with a Cook soil thermometer. I have never heard of trying to use a syringe cycle to lower soil temps, due to the variables associated with soil structure, density and the make up of organic matter in the profile, I can't see how only irrigation water could lower the soil temperature.

The existing structure of the soil does not support deep, infrequent watering and the clients do not want to pay for sand top dressing following core aerification.

I do try and avoid cycling the irrigation system through the landscape however some of the scrubs that installed these systems have tied in the landscape to a turf watering section.

Regarding the relative impact on turf-grass, I agree that excessive moisture on C3 species are detrimental. The "burn" that a poster mentioned is not actually a burn yet a response much more approximating wilt. Disease pressure is affected as well. C4 turf-grass is obviously much more high temperature hardy and I have never seen evidence of wilt associated with syringe cycles, I'm not saying it couldn't't occur, which I believe to be unlikely, however on all the varied turf sites I manage, I just haven't seen it.

Regarding the use of a syringe cycle to remove dew - the guttated fluids that C3 plants exude following a temperature cycle - from day through night back to day are actually nutrient rich emollient which exude from the pore structure on the leaf tissue. The use of a syringe to cleanse this fluid is highly regarded as the fluid is a nutrient source for disease pathogens. You can accomplish the same thing with a whip pole and whipping the greens - however one man can syringe a lot faster than he can whip the greens.

Critical Care
04-14-2006, 06:03 PM
SWD, I agree with you. The basic concept of syringing as far as I knew was just to help reduce the stress to turf caused by excessive heat. The idea of syringing to remove “morning dew” isn’t something that I’ve heard of before, however I never considered that the exuded fluids from cool season, or C3, grasses could be a contributing factor to turf disease.

In my post I mentioned that I had one place that might benefit from syringing. This place has hardpan wich is probably less than a couple inches below the surface, and to make matters worse, the turf has necrotic ring spot that I’ve been having an ongoing battle with. Because of the shallow soil, deep watering at this place is next to impossible, but with the NRS I’ve had to cut back on irrigation. It’s a headache and a killer combination. Either the turf becomes favorable for NRS, or else stresses out and desiccates from high heat conditions. So, enter syringing? Probably most educational institutions adhere to the use of syringing.

http://www.ipm.uiuc.edu/diseases/series400/rpd408/index.html for example.

04-14-2006, 09:56 PM
Regarding NRS, try a deep injection of up to 4" deep of Daconil Weatherstik or some other formulation of Chlorothanil.
There has been some interesting research on Fairy Ring and Localized Dry Spots with this chemical and some postulation regarding other root pathogens as well.
Apparently a fungus surrounds the individual soil particle and the deep injection helps with control.

Critical Care
04-15-2006, 02:24 AM
Regarding NRS, try a deep injection of up to 4" deep of Daconil Weatherstik or some other formulation of Chlorothanil.
There has been some interesting research on Fairy Ring and Localized Dry Spots with this chemical and some postulation regarding other root pathogens as well.
Apparently a fungus surrounds the individual soil particle and the deep injection helps with control.

I did see some info on the Daconil Weatherstik ( Chlorothalonil) but don't see where it is listed for controlling NRS, nor can it be used on residential lawns. One year ago I began treating this turf with Eagle (Myclobutanil), and from all info i read it's supposed to be one of the best chemical controls for it. An ex employer of mine said that he was having good results with Immunox, which I believe is also Myclobutanil. However, if I don't get results with Eagle I may have to try something else... like reseeding with rye.

You mention deep injection, and I'm beginning to think that I'll double the amount of water per tank to ensure enough of the chemical to reach the root zone. To reduce stress in the turf, I've also been leaving the grass on the long side - which could have affected how much chemical actually got to the roots as well. Can't win, eh?

Okay... the original post does have something to do with irrigation, syringing. Guess it all ties in together.

04-15-2006, 09:49 PM
Chlorothanil is labeled for residental turf care - however it is label specific, so with label support - you can use it.
Interestingly enough, this chemical is one of a select few that has demonstrated no known resistence development to pathogens.
Be sure and check with both the county/state and chemical companies as experimental use labels are available all of the time - a little research and you will have permission.
State universities are another excellent place to acquire permission for field trials/studies and most of the time the supervision, chemicals and permits are provided by the university.

04-15-2006, 11:31 PM
Syringing will not lower soil, it only lowers the ambient temperature at the canopy of the grass. Higher cutting heights could be one of the problem in that it shades out the surface and underlying crowns to prevent the grass from completely drying out. Lower cutting heights will also hurt because the grass is more likely to go under heat stress since less leaf is there to perform evapotranspiration. A good wetting agent in the spots that are stressing out could be a good solution to localized dry spot. It is not a fungus that encases the soil particles, but rather an organic coating around the soil particles and actually repels water. A wetting agent binds to this coating and allow water to penetrate quicker. There has been much research on this by the GCSAA and USGA. I think some results of wetting agent test are available from these agencies. Chlorothalonil is one of the greatest fungicides on the market right now, so you definitely can't go wrong spraying it. There is a saying in the golf course industry about this product, "Spray it white and sleep at night." Keep us updated on your progress fighting natures wrath at this property it is a very interesting topic.

P.S. Are your soils high in sand content?