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alaramore
04-17-2006, 01:54 PM
I'm having a problem with my Rainbird RC-7i sprinkler controller. On the "auto" mode, when i try to manually advance the controller, it doesn't advance. When i move it to the next zone, the sprinklers run and shut-off at the right time, but the controller does not advance to the next zone. Is the timer bad?

Wet_Boots
04-17-2006, 02:48 PM
Bad advance motor

SWD
04-17-2006, 03:04 PM
Typically what happens is the advance motor will show a voltage drop indicating high resistance.
I have also observed the pawls shorn completely off the second gear, so the motor would run but couldn't advance the timing wheel.
It would be easier and cheaper to change out with a LCD controller - I prefer the Hunter Pro-C yet any similar quality controller will do.

BSME
04-17-2006, 06:29 PM
speaking of the pro c... I just noticed the other day that Hunter added that little label for the right button that says something like, "push to manually start"

I always knew it did that but now homeowners know too and don't have to move the dial to "manual run all stations" then flip back to "run"... thought that was cool.

now to completely get off topic...

does anybody know why Hunter changed the mounting part of their wireless rain sensor? Seems sturdier now but I liked the option of having that piece that could extend to come out from beneath a gutter.

bdb
04-17-2006, 09:26 PM
now to completely get off topic...

does anybody know why Hunter changed the mounting part of their wireless rain sensor? Seems sturdier now but I liked the option of having that piece that could extend to come out from beneath a gutter.

As far as I know....the story has it that one of the "higher up's" at Hunter tried installing one with all the parts at his house and said that it wasn't contractor friendly or something. Needed to be easier to install. So they used the mini-click designed bracket.

BSME
04-17-2006, 09:34 PM
I would agree it may not be homeowner friendly... but I would hope a contractor could figure it out... it kind of limits our options now

rimartinez
07-22-2006, 04:41 PM
I'd like to replace my RC-7i as well, the control box is in my garage and it appears that the elctrical source is a low volate (other than the station wires, there are only 2 very small white wires that plug into the control box which I've assumed to be the power connections). However, most new control boxes are connected to an AC adapater. I'd rather not have to get an electrician in there to run a normal AC outlet to the spot, can anybody help/suggest any alternatives?

Thanks,

Dirty Water
07-22-2006, 05:06 PM
I'd like to replace my RC-7i as well, the control box is in my garage and it appears that the elctrical source is a low volate (other than the station wires, there are only 2 very small white wires that plug into the control box which I've assumed to be the power connections). However, most new control boxes are connected to an AC adapater. I'd rather not have to get an electrician in there to run a normal AC outlet to the spot, can anybody help/suggest any alternatives?

Thanks,

The RC-7i should use a 24v source for power, assuming that what you have from a transformer located elsewhere, than you can use the same power to run any modern timer. They all use 24v.

For example, even though the RainBird ESP-M has a internal transformer, you could just run the 24v wires you have directly to the 24v terminals inside the ESP-M, and your good to go.

http://www.rainbird.com/images/products/turf/controllers/ESPM-InsideCloseup_bg.jpg

You would remove the two orange wires in the upper left corner, and replace them with your 24v source.