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vfig777
04-20-2006, 10:38 PM
Ive got a customer that wants flower bed boxes installed in front of her house. She wants to use large landscape timbers. Should I use the pressure treated timbers at a homedepot (largest they have is 5 1/2x 5 1/2) or is there something else I should look into.
2nd question
What is the proper way to install the larger landscape timbers? Should I bury the first layer like I would when doing a stone wall? Do I bury a 4x4 post into the ground so I can attach the timbers to that (so the wall doesnt cave in or out)? If so, do I use cement or just back fill with dirt and pack it good? If I do use post, how far up should the post be exposed?, flush with the top of the wall or should it end 1 layer short of the top so that its covered with dirt and mulch?

dtelawncare
04-20-2006, 10:58 PM
I recently finished a large job using Landscaping Timbers. Over 90 timbers used in the project. We went 2 and 3 high in some places. I used 60D spiral nails to fasten them together. I drilled apilot hole in the timbers before nailing them together. Use a bit that is just a little bit smaller than the nail. After I had all the timbers in place I drilled a 3/8 hole all the way through the timbers and drove 3/8 rebar into them. Make sure you go about 2 feet into the ground with the rebar. We used a 3lb hammer to drive all the nails and rebar. Like all timber, the wood will draw up around the nails and rebar making it strong. I 2 peices of rebar per 8 ft section.

Hope this helps you out. Sheshovel had some good info for me when I asked about the same thing.

befnme
04-21-2006, 12:19 AM
I recently finished a large job using Landscaping Timbers. Over 90 timbers used in the project. We went 2 and 3 high in some places. I used 60D spiral nails to fasten them together. I drilled apilot hole in the timbers before nailing them together. Use a bit that is just a little bit smaller than the nail. After I had all the timbers in place I drilled a 3/8 hole all the way through the timbers and drove 3/8 rebar into them. Make sure you go about 2 feet into the ground with the rebar. We used a 3lb hammer to drive all the nails and rebar. Like all timber, the wood will draw up around the nails and rebar making it strong. I 2 peices of rebar per 8 ft section.

Hope this helps you out. Sheshovel had some good info for me when I asked about the same thing.


i did one the same way recently .dont forget to tie your ends together with every level .

sheshovel
04-21-2006, 02:30 AM
Yea except I don't remember what I told you now.....
Sometimes I go blank like that.The rebar should hold it together and into the ground too.You should be able to build it like shown in the above
(did I draw that?) with ends and it will be self standing ..just add good planting soil and you might want to add a few inches of gravel in the botton for drainage.You can get rebar cut to ythe size you need at any lumber company or hardware supplier..not homeowner stores though..I am not sure what you have there but here TruEValue dosen't do it but the lumber/hardware store where most contractors buy their stuff do.Alsso make sure your not going to be driving rebar into any underground utility lines or irrigation lines...most telephone,power companies will come out and mark the lines for you IF the area has underground lines at all.Some just have above ground.

vfig777
04-21-2006, 04:46 PM
should I use crushed stone as a base or use the earth?
At what point should I use a deadman (To resist tipover set a few timbers, called deadmen, perpendicular to the wall, and spike them in place)

Thanks

sheshovel
04-21-2006, 06:04 PM
Crushed stone over earth...don't think you would need any deadmen if you are following the above instructions.You really only need deadmen on a retaining wall situation or building on a hill.Is this on a hill?You need to pay closer attention to what already has been advised above.

vfig777
04-21-2006, 09:50 PM
dtelawncare and befnme, thanks for your help

sheshovel
04-21-2006, 09:55 PM
OK fine!.........................................................