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View Full Version : a little help please.... CAUTION....... PLEASE READ!!!!


REENO
04-22-2006, 02:12 PM
i was wondering if someone else had this problem?.......







i was cutting with my jd waLKBEHIND with the velke, and i found it kind of hard to turn with accuracy when i got to the end of the yard. also when going up the hill it would pop a wheelie.(come to find out, when i told my father about the wheel popping up when going up the hill, he told me that my mothers' sister lost her husband in a similar accident)i know i need weights 4 the front wheels, but what i want to know is, IF THERE IS ANYTHING, I Mean ANYTHING that i should be aware of this is the thread to inform people.(not to judge my uncle!, after all .....) also i found that the velke would try to jack-knife sometimes. this could be a very helpful thread 4 a lot of people, thanx!

REENO
04-22-2006, 03:11 PM
THANK U FOR ALL THE HELP, FRIENDS!:dizzy: :hammerhead:

CBramble
04-22-2006, 05:39 PM
You waited a whole hour, patience young grasshopper....

Badgerz
04-22-2006, 05:41 PM
Actually he waited a total of 59 minutes. Have a little patience there Reeno. ;)

REENO
04-22-2006, 05:56 PM
Actually he waited a total of 59 minutes. Have a little patience there Reeno. ;)
my bad.......

traman
04-22-2006, 06:46 PM
yep takes some time to get used to ,first go around the perimeter 2 times then cut the section your in,in half this way you can make wider turns ,do one part then go over to the other section ,section one then section 2 ,then finish up down the middle ,it would be easer to draw it than to explain ,as far as hills shift down to a lower gear that should help then up shift when on top ,i just get off and walk on the side then jump back on but there is a technique for that to ,mine also has a chain on it so i can hang it up for real tight areas hope this helps

topsites
04-22-2006, 09:49 PM
One should really read the manual that comes with the mower and the velke as they both explain the dangers and the pitfalls, however some used machines come without the manual and there are some things only experience will teach you.

Here are some basics:
NEVER stand on the velke while backing up, always step off the riding attachment anytime the mower is not going forward or standing perfectly still. As far as how to keep it from jackknifing that is just a problem, some folks have the chain, I have learned to back up my mower the same way I back up my trailer - slow and easy and turn it similar to the way you turn the truck when backing up, this helps keep the velke from jackknifing such as when unloading. When it does jackknife, hold the brake with one hand (well I have a T-bar) and with the other hand pull the velke back into a straight out position, but you can also use your foot should both your hands be on the controls.

NEVER ride the velke while going up a steep incline. Always unmount from your riding attachment and carefully ease the mower up the hill as you walk alongside. Also before going up the hill, downshift the machine into 2nd gear, never attempt to climb a hill in anything higher than 2nd gear unless you have 2 or 3 thousand yards cut under your belt and you know what can happen:
If the front-end rears itself, be aware of the point of no turn-around, meaning it's coming towards you and there is nothing you can do - At this point you need to let go and get out of the machine's way as nicely and quickly as possible. Sometimes letting go of the drive mechanism or engaging the brake will reset the front, but not always - Always be especially alert on steep inclines, it is a dangerous part of the turf. You can add weight to the front but this unbalances the machine from what the manufacturer had intended and it will still not totally prevent the problem because you need to be careful first.

Technically, you should never turn UP a hill, turning DOWN the hill is the safest way but it's also easier for the mower to slide out from under you - If it does, it's still safer because the machine should be below you instead of over top of you. This is a choice you have to make, take the increased chance of fishing your mower out of the ditch, or play with your life.

With experience you can learn which part of the hill is not so steep: Use the shallowest part to get up the hill, then come DOWN the steepest part or go across. Sometimes you have to do the whole incline with one-way horizontal passes: You go one way all the way across, then either go to the top or the bottom and back to the beginning and start over, one row lower or higher, until the whole thing is done: Yes, it pays to think about it some.

When turning, slow down to prevent fishtailing. If your velke fishtails on straight-aways, likely you have a 2-wheel velke: Switching to a 1-wheeler will keep it from fishtailing on the straights. If it still fishtails, take it to the dealer and see if they tell you the tread on the tire is too worn - It doesn't have to be completely bald to fishtail, unfortunately a velke needs some TREAD to keep it steady so you might need a new tire, even if the tire you have looks to have enough tread, the dealer can tell you for sure. If nothing else, you'd have a spare.

As for me, I love sliding around turns and I really like it when the mower gets up careening on its side wheels but you have to be careful because the blades will hit the dirt at some point.
My favorite is the one-wheel wheelie but I can only do it by accident :laugh:

topsites
04-22-2006, 10:03 PM
There is more:

The Wb is equipped with either a 4-speed or 5-speed Tecumseh clutchless transmission. It is a fairly simple set of planetary gears that engage with a lever but due to the lack of a clutch, it is highly recommended NEVER shift gears in motion. Always come to a complete stop, then shift, then get moving again after you're sure you have felt the 'click' on the lever. If the machine doesn't move or it feels jerky, likely it's not in gear or not correctly engaged: Yes, practice makes perfect but even after many years I always start out with a test push of the handle before I go full speed.

Technically you can shift while moving but it takes some know-how. The reason they say not to do it is because they don't want any pressure on any of the gears while you are shifting, because if it has pressure on it, it can shear some gears and it will mess up. However, a mower in motion needs only a 'disengaged' drivetrain to shift... If the mower is coasting, meaning there is no pressure being exerted on the transmission from the transmission belt, then it is perfectly safe to shift while in motion but you do so at your own risk: Recommended procedure is to stop completely before you shift.

The problem is, the transmission has two shafts on which the gears reside: Unfortunately when a transmission fails, on the Tecumseh models and others as well it is not the gears that shear but the shaft itself (one or the other, maybe both). So, even more unfortunately, once a shear happens, chances are every gear is out of order because the shaft isn't turning, and the gears ride on the shaft, all of them.
Translation: Mess up in one gear, any gear... And the whole transmission is likely to be shot. The shaft(s) only cost around 20 dollars or so but usually have to be ordered and it is a lot of labor to fix it. You can do it yourself in an afternoon but let me warn you that it is best to never have to mess with this bit.

On that last note, if you've ever driven a stickshift transmission and know how to shift a car without the use of the clutch, the process is similar but easier as you do not have to match engine and transmission rpm's, just make sure it is free-wheeling and no power is going through the tranny. Another way to think of it, it is kind of like a 12-speed transmission on a bicycle - You just don't shift gears while pedaling full steam: On the mower, there is NO pedaling to be going on while shifting (i.e.: no power going through the transmission).
With practice, you can shift that bad boy like a Formula 1, but keep in mind a new transmission is 150 dollars and involves quite the bit of labor to replace.

REENO
04-23-2006, 05:35 AM
yep takes some time to get used to ,first go around the perimeter 2 times then cut the section your in,in half this way you can make wider turns ,do one part then go over to the other section ,section one then section 2 ,then finish up down the middle ,it would be easer to draw it than to explain ,as far as hills shift down to a lower gear that should help then up shift when on top ,i just get off and walk on the side then jump back on but there is a technique for that to ,mine also has a chain on it so i can hang it up for real tight areas hope this helps
thanx, a little lost on the section thing,but i also have a chain on mine,ill keep your idea in mind. i have a field down the street from my house(my practice feild.) ill try it out!

REENO
04-23-2006, 05:44 AM
There is more:

The Wb is equipped with either a 4-speed or 5-speed Tecumseh clutchless transmission. It is a fairly simple set of planetary gears that engage with a lever but due to the lack of a clutch, it is highly recommended NEVER shift gears in motion. Always come to a complete stop, then shift, then get moving again after you're sure you have felt the 'click' on the lever. If the machine doesn't move or it feels jerky, likely it's not in gear or not correctly engaged: Yes, practice makes perfect but even after many years I always start out with a test push of the handle before I go full speed.

Technically you can shift while moving but it takes some know-how. The reason they say not to do it is because they don't want any pressure on any of the gears while you are shifting, because if it has pressure on it, it can shear some gears and it will mess up. However, a mower in motion needs only a 'disengaged' drivetrain to shift... If the mower is coasting, meaning there is no pressure being exerted on the transmission from the transmission belt, then it is perfectly safe to shift while in motion but you do so at your own risk: Recommended procedure is to stop completely before you shift.

The problem is, the transmission has two shafts on which the gears reside: Unfortunately when a transmission fails, on the Tecumseh models and others as well it is not the gears that shear but the shaft itself (one or the other, maybe both). So, even more unfortunately, once a shear happens, chances are every gear is out of order because the shaft isn't turning, and the gears ride on the shaft, all of them.
Translation: Mess up in one gear, any gear... And the whole transmission is likely to be shot. The shaft(s) only cost around 20 dollars or so but usually have to be ordered and it is a lot of labor to fix it. You can do it yourself in an afternoon but let me warn you that it is best to never have to mess with this bit.

On that last note, if you've ever driven a stickshift transmission and know how to shift a car without the use of the clutch, the process is similar but easier as you do not have to match engine and transmission rpm's, just make sure it is free-wheeling and no power is going through the tranny. Another way to think of it, it is kind of like a 12-speed transmission on a bicycle - You just don't shift gears while pedaling full steam: On the mower, there is NO pedaling to be going on while shifting (i.e.: no power going through the transmission).
With practice, you can shift that bad boy like a Formula 1, but keep in mind a new transmission is 150 dollars and involves quite the bit of labor to replace.
thanx a million 4 the help,all of it. getting off of the machine in reverse seems like my new move! thanx again. the gearshift tip too!!!!!!!!!:clapping:

MTAYLORFFP
04-23-2006, 06:09 PM
I have a mtd pro mower i aquired for backup that does the exact same thing, seems like the transmission stalls when in gear, and if you look closely, the shaft stops spinning. I had it in the shop all week and they cannot figure out whats wrong with it (gears are intact and all) any ideas??

REENO
04-24-2006, 11:36 PM
I have a mtd pro mower i aquired for backup that does the exact same thing, seems like the transmission stalls when in gear, and if you look closely, the shaft stops spinning. I had it in the shop all week and they cannot figure out whats wrong with it (gears are intact and all) any ideas??
NOPE NOT ME