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jacob land and
04-25-2006, 07:07 PM
im looking at a 1989 dodge ram50. it has the cummins turbo diesel, a boss straight blade that is in pretty good shape and a ez dumper insert that is in fair condition. the only thing im worried about is it has 280k miles. they are asking $2500, hoping to walk away with it for $1000. what do you think?

MysticLandscape
04-25-2006, 08:58 PM
If you can get it for 1k and have it last a year i would say its worth it.

procut
04-25-2006, 11:43 PM
If you can get it for 1k and have it last a year i would say its worth it.

Definatly. As long as it still runs ok and the driveline is realitivly tight I'd say it would be a great buy for $1000.

hosejockey2002
04-26-2006, 12:57 AM
You do mean Ram 250, right? The Ram 50 was the little Mistubishi. A CTD powered Ram 250 that runs, drives, steers and stops is worth at least $3K. A working EZ dumper is worth $1K. Not sure about the plow, don't have much use for them around here. Sounds like a winner for $2.5K. The motor is probably OK with 280K, but the rest of the truck could be pretty hammered...:hammerhead:

FearThisDeere
04-26-2006, 08:00 AM
Yeah, that has to be the ram 250. If that was a CTDin a Ram 50 that would be kind of interesting! Check for all the usual problems such as frame rust, leaks, and especially wiring in those older Rams (trust me, I have one). If everything ckecks out, go for it!:drinkup:

jacob land and
04-26-2006, 07:06 PM
i went and test drove it today dump and plow work fine. it starts a little rough and the brakes are really soft, they are firm on the price to $2500 is this a big cause for concern...?

FearThisDeere
04-26-2006, 08:51 PM
I wouldn't be too worried. See if you can offer them $1900 or something, get the thing tuned up and put on some good brakes and you'll be all set! Diesels are supposed to start rough.. haha!:laugh:

Bustus
04-26-2006, 09:22 PM
I wouldn't be too worried. See if you can offer them $1900 or something, get the thing tuned up and put on some good brakes and you'll be all set! Diesels are supposed to start rough.. haha!:laugh:
That sounds like a good bet. It should last you a good while still.

lawnmaniac883
04-26-2006, 09:25 PM
Ask if the coolant has been changed every 5 years and if they have any proof of it. Cavitation is a HUGE problem with older poorly maintained diesels. If the coolant has never been changed then expect the block to be pitted and it will be shot relatively soon. Have an oil analysis done on this truck as well before you buy and see what the wear metals are at and if there is any coolant already in the oil. 2500 is not a bad price if it has been maintained well.

janb
04-27-2006, 12:02 AM
you can get coolant test strips at NAPA to verify that additives are still healthy
cummins was not too prone to cavitation, but it is worth checking, and certainly worth maintaining. There are quite a few fixes to get free power from this vintage, and truck is pretty stout, tho tend to rust. (Cab pillars / floors) Check for a broken steering box mount, Mine's welded...

wiring is not great, but a $5 relay added in headlight circuit solves the biggest issue.

good dodge info here; www dieseltruckresource com ; look in 1st generation forum


These are mostly 'mechanical', diesels so pretty simple to fix and maintain.

funkigreasemonki
05-25-2006, 12:37 AM
Doesnt sound like a bad deal to me at all. You'll love plowing with that diesel, great low end grunt, and plenty of weight in the front. Don't be afraid to wheel and deal a little bit, even though it sounds like your getting a great deal with a plow and a dump included! Plan on putting some money in it though, assume its due for all its fluid changes ect. and go through it all. This way you'll have piece of mind that everythings good, and if along the way you do find something wrong you'll know and can fix it before your left stranded, in a parking lot you've only plowed half of (ask me how I know).

mag360
05-28-2006, 11:59 PM
That is a great deal. The engine alone is worth the asking price.
I would not hesitate to buy (also cavitation is a huge issue in the older fords with the 7.3, not in a 5.9 cummins) Expect to replace a few parts though. Probably start with front calipers and brake lines. I suspect the brakes are soft because they need to be bled and the bleed valve was corroded and broke off. Calipers are cheap and easy, you can do both fronts for under $100, master cylinder is under $50. Good luck with it and be sure to check out turbodieselregister.com

Randy J
05-29-2006, 09:16 AM
Ask if the coolant has been changed every 5 years and if they have any proof of it. Cavitation is a HUGE problem with older poorly maintained diesels. If the coolant has never been changed then expect the block to be pitted and it will be shot relatively soon. Have an oil analysis done on this truck as well before you buy and see what the wear metals are at and if there is any coolant already in the oil. 2500 is not a bad price if it has been maintained well.

Cavitation has never been a problem with the Cummins - which is good and bad. The reason for cavitation is air pockets in coolant behind the liner that explode from heat in the combustion chamber, and cause pitting in cylinder liners. The Cummins does not use cylinder liners. The good is no problem with cavitation. The bad is more expense when it comes to rebuilding the engine as you can't simply replace the liner. Cavitation is a concern with Ford diesels, not sure about GM.
The 1st gen Dodge/Cummins was pretty much bullet proof, and could easily last a million miles (several examples). The transmission will be of concern however. And look at the A (door hinge pillar). The early trucks had a problem with developing cracks in the cowl in that area. Some of the early trucks did have problems with the frame cracking, and since this one has been hanging a plow out front, you'll want to take a good look at the frame. The only other thing I would be concerned about is if they have turned up the fuel significantly. It's easy to do with those pickups. And it's also easy to cause damage from too much heat - a result of too much fueling. Other than that, if the truck runs and drives decent, $2500 is a good price for it alone. You can decide how much the ancillary equipment is worth, based on it's condition.
Oh, and it could be a 350. In the 1st gen, (and again in the newest models) I believe you could get a SRW 1 ton, couldn't you?