View Full Version : Scag Problem Any Suggestions.

04-30-2006, 10:26 AM
I have a 17hp kaw 48" fixed deck WB that has over 600hrs. on it. It has suddenly started to cut like crap. I mow 3"-4" with it. It has sharp blades on it, but it still takes 2-3 passes to cut. Any suggestions

04-30-2006, 10:37 AM
I have a 17hp kaw 48" fixed deck WB that has over 600hrs. on it. It has suddenly started to cut like crap. I mow 3"-4" with it. It has sharp blades on it, but it still takes 2-3 passes to cut. Any suggestions

Probably stuff you have already thought about. Drive or blade belts loose? Rounded edges on the blades? Deck pitch out of adjustment? Engine RPM's low?

CutInEdge Lawn Care
04-30-2006, 10:55 AM
Well if it has sharp blades and you have 600 hrs of use on it. Meaning you have put the 600 hrs on it. What changes have you made. Have you moved the bolts for raising or lowering the deck(not the spacers). Your belts should have aprox 1/2 play at 10lbs pressure. Are you mowing to fast. Are you mowing bahia???? Are you blades in there upright position(not upside down). Its one thing mowing during the winter when yrd takes you 10min to mow and another when spring time hits and the grass is growing behind you as you mow. Do you have the advantage or high velocity deck. I have both decks.

04-30-2006, 01:07 PM
Everthing checks out ok. Had it serviced this spring.
Mowing fescue at 3.5"-4".
What is your setup on your fixed deck advantage deck to mow at this height.
I did raise the deck and lower the front baffle per dealer advise.And left one washer underneath the deck with 4 on top of the spindle. per the same dealer.

CutInEdge Lawn Care
04-30-2006, 01:27 PM
Fixed deck is the high velocity deck but same spindle, baffle, etc... I do not feel that leaving 1 spacing is enough for your mower, your not getting enough lift and causing the grass to just blow under the blade. I would not go with less than 2 spacers but I use 3 spacers. I would think you would be wanting to cut fescue around the 3" mark but I mainly cut St. augustine and bahia. I leave the baffle in the middle holes which manual says is the best all around. If I was doing leaf clean up I would put in #4 for less blow out. Did you take out the two bolts by the rear tires and change the whole height of deck or just spacers which really only changes the pitch of deck, causing blades to wear in a dif pattern. Personally I feel you are trying to cut at too high and causing the grass to blow under the blades. Go back to square one with 3 to 4 spacers and a 1/4" deck pitch in front. You may be trying to go outside the realistic expectations of the machine. If I can be of any help go to www.cutinedge.com and you can contact me there personally. Good Luck!!

04-30-2006, 01:31 PM
check the tire pressure, and engine rpms

04-30-2006, 06:21 PM
CUTINEDGE: I did take the bolts out and moved the entire deck assembly up to it highest setting. I have read the manual about the washers to leave three between the blade and spindle for the best performance. I have from day one had three spacers and mowed at 2.5"-3" with good results. But I have picked up a major account that is properly watered and fertilized. And is to be mowed no more than once a week. And I was requested by the homeowner's association to mow it at 3.5"-4". So I have raised everything so that I could. But since doing that it doesn't cut as good. I have thought about moving the baffle back up. But also I have thought about reseting everything back and not saying anything and just mowing it at 3".

CutInEdge Lawn Care
04-30-2006, 07:46 PM
Well like I said you might be trying to go beyond the realistic capabilities. 3.5 to 4" is getting to the capabilities. 3.5 should not be a problem, However, when trying to do other yrds that requires 2.5, 2.75, etc... then you get into the problems you are experiencing. I have a floater, and a fixed deck unit. If that account is worth it, is it possible to get another mower for all the other jobs or get a float deck? I would mow at 3.5" per your contract not the 4". I am assuming this is a one for all mower. I dont like cutting bahia over 3" because (well because the crap blows under the blades and results in multiple passes when I could be moving onto another job. Moral of my rambling, go back to square one and go from there. Take the mower to where cut starts to deteriate and bk it off. Then you know it's limit. If all other jobs suffer due to this one account, Well then, you have to make some business decision that can make or break you. Good Luck!!!

CutInEdge Lawn Care
04-30-2006, 07:53 PM
Another thing you can do is put mower on concrete floor and measure blade height. Then air tires to max or just a little over, Check your blade height(just for the one job at 4") Then go maybe 5lbs under max and check blade height. You might have to let air out of tires to use on the other yrd or put a little more air in just to get the 4" that you are looking for. The reason I say this is used to have a peterbilt that would let the air out of tires to let the stacks clear the quansent roof in the winter time.

04-30-2006, 09:59 PM
Cuttinedge: I didn't think of using air pressure to raise the height. I'll try it after resetting everything back the way it was. But since that one account I am going to try to mow every yard that I use the WB on to 3.5" just so I don't have to keep moving things around. I have looked at the new husqvarna floating deck with the one handle deck height adjustment it was nice and cut alot better than my scag when it was new.