View Full Version : Old school weathermatic valve question

05-02-2006, 10:12 PM
Doing a head repair for a family friend, I'm unfamiliar with how the weathermatic valve is manually turned on. This system was probably installed in the early 80's judging by the ancient controller.

On the valve there's a bleeder and the solenoid itself. The whole 1/4 turn like the Hunter valves doesn't work. Anybody know how to manually turn the valve on?

05-02-2006, 10:26 PM
Plastic or Brass?

There should be a little lever in front of the coil on the valve.

05-02-2006, 10:30 PM
I believe on the outlet side of the valve their should be a small flip lever that you can rotate upwards. This manually opens the valve. If their is dirt around the valve or you can't see well you kind of have to know where and what your looking for to find them. Somebody tell me if I'm wrong about this as I'm referring back to an old golf course system I used to run.

05-02-2006, 10:33 PM
Ancient brass valves will open when you loosen/remove a small plug from the top of the valve (manual bleed)

Dirty Water
05-02-2006, 11:16 PM
Boots nailed it.

I like to use the bleeder even on new valves. Seems like chances of the valve sticking open is decreased when you use the bleeder versus turning the solinoid.

05-02-2006, 11:37 PM
It's a plastic valve.

So is there a lever to flip or am I to loosen the bleeder and then the solenoid itself ( or some other combination)?

Loosening the bleeder just shoots out a little jet of water from the valve, loosening the solenoid just lets some water run out in the valve box.

Dirty Water
05-02-2006, 11:47 PM
Open the bleeder up a bit more, and the valve will open. Keep the solinoid tight.

05-03-2006, 07:49 AM
If there is a bleeder screw on the valve, and the valve is plastic, then it is not a Weathermatic. The old brass valves of nearly 30 yrs ago had the brass bleeder on the bonnet.

The original plastic W*M valves had a flip lever under the solenoid facing downstream.It was originally made of brass, and then of plastic.

To operate the valve manually, flip the lever to the full up position and the valve will open. Reverse it and it will close. If the diaphragm is worn out and in bad shape this may not open the valve either. You can make the valve operate by loosening the solenoid more than one turn. Just be careful that you don't remove it completely. Those fine threads are a pain to keep straight when the water is hitting you in the face!

If the valve has a manual bleeder screw, either in the bonnet or in the middle of the flow control stem, you may have to remove it completely to make what ever brand of valve you have operate.


OH yeah...Ancient is not the 80's !!!!

05-03-2006, 09:30 AM
The old brass valves of nearly 30 yrs ago had the brass bleeder on the bonnet.

Some like the Buckner brass valves have a butterfly screw that when opened allows water to flow out the center of it and actuate the valve. Be very careful with these as they are prone to break if not used in a long time and seized up.

05-04-2006, 07:39 PM
Ok, so opening the bleeder screw worked and I got the zone running. Great. I'm happy.

But after I was finished, I screwed in the bleeder screw and nothing happend, the sprinklers just kept running. And running. And didn't shut off until I shut the water valve off. Waited, turned it back on, sprinklers still ran.

How do I get the valve to close now?:hammerhead:

05-04-2006, 08:30 PM
Now you know why they make valves with flow controls.

Dirty Water
05-04-2006, 08:32 PM

Fiddle with the solinoid and bleeder. If that doesn't get it, try slowly closing the ball valve on the backflow.

05-04-2006, 10:15 PM
Maybe you should consider installing a new diaphragm, or at least check to see if there is any trash under the diaphragm. If bleeder is tight, the solenoid is tight, and everything else is secure, it sounds like you have a forward flow valve with a damaged diahragm.

05-05-2006, 09:32 AM
Maybe install a "new school" valve? :laugh: