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rb_in_va
05-04-2006, 10:57 AM
I have a leak in my push mower's gas tank. It's a Chraftsman 6 hp model # 917.387500. The B&S model no. is 12H802-2639-B1. What would be the best fix for this, epoxy or just replace it? I have also heard that the Briggs dealer might replace for free. Thanks, Roger.


http://www.lawnsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56528&d=1146747900
http://www.lawnsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56529&d=1146747908

newz7151
05-04-2006, 11:58 AM
and the numbers that you need are either stamped into the blower housing above the spark plug, or on a heat shield piece above the muffler.

rb_in_va
05-04-2006, 12:05 PM
and the numbers that you need are either stamped into the blower housing above the spark plug, or on a heat shield piece above the muffler.

The tank part number isn't the one that is on the tank?

Restrorob
05-04-2006, 01:03 PM
The B&S model no. is 12H802-2639-B1

Take this number and the code number right after this number and proof of purchase with the fuel tank to a Authorized Briggs warranty dealer and they should give you a new one.

rb_in_va
05-04-2006, 01:38 PM
Take this number and the code number right after this number and proof of purchase with the fuel tank to a Authorized Briggs warranty dealer and they should give you a new one.

I will see if I can find the receipt. Thanks, Roger.

newz7151
05-04-2006, 01:46 PM
I will see if I can find the receipt. Thanks, Roger.

Receipt shouldn't really be necessary. If you cannot find it, they can submit their claim using the DOM. Please bear in mind that this applies in this situation only. Normal warranty period repairs still require a proof of purchase.

rb_in_va
05-04-2006, 01:59 PM
Receipt shouldn't really be necessary. If you cannot find it, they can submit their claim using the DOM. Please bear in mind that this applies in this situation only. Normal warranty period repairs still require a proof of purchase.

I went to a Briggs dealer at lunch time and they wouldn't give me a free one. I asked about the warranty on a new one (at $29) and they said it was good for 30 days. Seems like quite a sham if they won't guarantee their product for more than 30 days! I have had my mower for 3-4 years, but haven't used it more than 10 times. I moved to a condo and haven't needed to use it for quite awhile.

newz7151
05-04-2006, 05:50 PM
I went to a Briggs dealer at lunch time and they wouldn't give me a free one. I asked about the warranty on a new one (at $29) and they said it was good for 30 days. Seems like quite a sham if they won't guarantee their product for more than 30 days! I have had my mower for 3-4 years, but haven't used it more than 10 times. I moved to a condo and haven't needed to use it for quite awhile.


Ok, well if they are gonna be dicks about it, call Briggs at 800-233-3723. You might get through faster (although not toll free) by calling the main Briggs number at (414) 259-5333. Tell them you have a Briggs engine that the gas tank is leaking fuel from somewhere and that you are afraid it is going to catch on fire. Somebody might give you more of an idea on where to go. I don't have a problem doing them down here..I guess things are just different where you are.

Also, I do not give out free ones either. If the customer wants it replaced, it needs to come in on the mower and be replaced at our shop.

rb_in_va
05-04-2006, 05:52 PM
Also, I do not give out free ones either. If the customer wants it replaced, it needs to come in on the mower and be replaced at our shop.

Ok, so how much is the replacement fee at your shop?

newz7151
05-04-2006, 07:44 PM
Ok, so how much is the replacement fee at your shop?


If it is a qualifying tank, the customer doesn't pay anything. B&S has been paying for the replacements. The tank 699374 retail MSRP price is $25.30 plus 30 minutes of install labor time.

Restrorob
05-04-2006, 09:35 PM
Ok, well if they are gonna be dicks about it


Thats exactly what they are being. :dizzy:
My boss has no problem giving a customer a tank if they walk in with the old one in hand, The shop is in a small town and we have customers that drive as far as 40 miles one way. He doesn't tell them they have to bring the whole unit in so he gets 1/2 hr. labor for doing nothing and makes the customer happy. But if a customer calls or comes in asking about a tank leak warranty he will tell them they must bring the whole unit in.

newz7151
05-04-2006, 10:07 PM
Thats exactly what they are being. :dizzy:
My boss has no problem giving a customer a tank if they walk in with the old one in hand, The shop is in a small town and we have customers that drive as far as 40 miles one way. He doesn't tell them they have to bring the whole unit in so he gets 1/2 hr. labor for doing nothing and makes the customer happy. But if a customer calls or comes in asking about a tank leak warranty he will tell them they must bring the whole unit in.

Yes Rob, but you still need Model,Type, Code and the customers information to file the claim on The Power Portal. Also, about 75% of the tank replacements have turned into oil,AF and plug quickie tune ups when somebody comes in with a tank leaking, air filter housing filled with grass and a spark plug that still has the paint of a 4 year old engine on it.

Restrorob
05-04-2006, 11:15 PM
Yes Rob, but you still need Model,Type, Code and the customers information


Yes newz, But one needs numbers to look up the proper tank, And customer at counter has information. No numbers customer's bad for extra trip not boss's, He owns the place so whatever works for him.

rb_in_va
05-07-2006, 02:54 PM
Well, I went to a Briggs repair shop and got a tank off a junk mower for $5. The bad news is that gas is NOW laeking from my primer bulb! I'm going to replace the gasket between the carb and the air filter housing and see if that fixes the leak. Any tips?

Restrorob
05-07-2006, 05:54 PM
Any tips?


Sounds like the float valve is leaking, And put two gaskets on the air filter base and don't over tighten it. In time the plastic base will warp and not seal then the primer doesn't work.

newz7151
05-07-2006, 07:04 PM
And put two gaskets on the air filter base and don't over tighten it. In time the plastic base will warp and not seal then the primer doesn't work.

While warping/cracking of the AC base can be a cause of this.. I've happened upon another cause. The screw holes in the AC base are slightly larger than the screws. If you hold your hand under the base and apply slight upward pressure to hold the base up while you tighten the screws, it will allow the gasket a more positive seal against the carburetor face. I got tired of double gasketing the AC base to get the primer circuit to work and started looking more closely at where the gasket was not touching on the AC base ridge and found the above to work for sealing the gasket.

Restrorob
05-07-2006, 07:57 PM
While warping/cracking of the AC base can be a cause of this.. I've happened upon another cause. The screw holes in the AC base are slightly larger than the screws. If you hold your hand under the base and apply slight upward pressure to hold the base up while you tighten the screws, it will allow the gasket a more positive seal against the carburetor face. I got tired of double gasketing the AC base to get the primer circuit to work and started looking more closely at where the gasket was not touching on the AC base ridge and found the above to work for sealing the gasket.


Thanks for the tip newz, I'll give it a try on the next one I run across.

newz7151
05-07-2006, 09:30 PM
Thanks for the tip newz, I'll give it a try on the next one I run across.


Yes, do so. Because if you pull the gasket off on one that you have just replaced and it is not sealing, you will see the indentation on the gasket from the ridge. The only place it is not indented into the gasket is at the bottom.. where the ridge is not totally on the bottom portion of the carburetor. Not letting the backplate just hang while you tighten it keeps the ridge up higher to seal.

rb_in_va
05-08-2006, 11:08 AM
While warping/cracking of the AC base can be a cause of this.. I've happened upon another cause. The screw holes in the AC base are slightly larger than the screws. If you hold your hand under the base and apply slight upward pressure to hold the base up while you tighten the screws, it will allow the gasket a more positive seal against the carburetor face. I got tired of double gasketing the AC base to get the primer circuit to work and started looking more closely at where the gasket was not touching on the AC base ridge and found the above to work for sealing the gasket.

Thanks for the advice! I will pick up 2 gaskets while I am at the shop just in case though. Thanks, Roger.

rb_in_va
05-09-2006, 05:21 PM
I picked up the gaskets today. Gotta give 2 thumbs up for the nice folks at Certified Lawn and Power in Hampton VA. They are really nice folks, and have a well organized showroom. I will see if the new gasket plus the tip from newz to lift the AC housing up stops the leak. Thanks to all!

rb_in_va
05-12-2006, 11:26 AM
I tried the double gasket trick, as well as holding the AC base up while tightening the screws down. It still leaks! I'm ready to buy a new (used) mower out of the classifieds, but I know the one I have will run fine once I get the leak fixed. HELP!

newz7151
05-12-2006, 01:09 PM
I tried the double gasket trick, as well as holding the AC base up while tightening the screws down. It still leaks! I'm ready to buy a new (used) mower out of the classifieds, but I know the one I have will run fine once I get the leak fixed. HELP!


If it's still leaking, you're going to need to rebuild the carburetor most likely.

rb_in_va
05-12-2006, 01:34 PM
My question is, what keeps the gas from leaking out of the primer bulb? It appears that there is no mechanism to prevent gas from flowing that way just from the force of gravity.

Restrorob
05-12-2006, 07:37 PM
[QUOTE=Restrorob]Sounds like the float valve is leaking,QUOTE]

Do you remember this comment ? Now you can do one of three things.
You can remove the carb. take it apart clean all passages with carb & choke spray cleaner and replace the float needle & seat part # 398188 for 3.85 and you may need a part # 693981 bowl gasket for 1.95 Or you can replace the hole carb. ;
http://www.briggspowershop.com/BriggsAndStratton/ProductDetails.aspx?sendingPageType=SearchResults&Catalog=BriggsAndStratton&ProductId=498170 Or you can purchase a whole new unit.

Good Luck

rb_in_va
05-15-2006, 12:01 PM
Rob,
I do remember that comment. I don't remember anyone giving a remedy for that situation at the time. Thanks for the info, Roger.

gonna.cut.grass
05-18-2006, 08:26 PM
looking at your picture -
I got the same excat gas tank on my 22" push mower with the Briggs 6.5 hp engine.
It also started leaking at the seam.
Briggs should do something about that.
tank should never leak at the seam - bad manufacturing.

newz7151
05-18-2006, 08:42 PM
looking at your picture -
I got the same excat gas tank on my 22" push mower with the Briggs 6.5 hp engine.
It also started leaking at the seam.
Briggs should do something about that.
tank should never leak at the seam - bad manufacturing.

Well no $hit Sherlock.. They are doing something about it. They are replacing them as policy if they are leaking. If you can design a better plastic type material tank and sit on top of the vendor so that they get the sonic weld frequency correct, then I'm sure they would love to hire you.

I swear, do some people just read the "title" line and then jump to the very end and post something without reading the thread. Nevermind.. I guess this is another :hammerhead: situation.

gonna.cut.grass
05-18-2006, 09:38 PM
newz7151
thanks for your professional help.

newz7151
05-19-2006, 12:45 AM
newz7151
thanks for your professional help.

You're welcome.

Restrorob
05-19-2006, 07:42 AM
newz7151
thanks for your professional help.

You're welcome.


;) :hammerhead: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

newz7151
05-19-2006, 09:14 AM
;) :hammerhead: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Hey.. where I come from, it's "thank you" and then "you're welcome" .... even if it is sarcastic.

rb_in_va
06-09-2006, 09:14 AM
All right, I finally got the carb rebuild kit. Anyone have some carb rebuild instructions I can print out? I could probably fumble my way through it, but would rather have some sort of guide. Thanks, Roger.

Restrorob
06-10-2006, 10:39 PM
You can go here; http://www.briggspowershop.com/BriggsAndStratton/advancedsearch.aspx and down-load the parts break-down, Thats all thats available on-line no manuals.

rb_in_va
06-12-2006, 03:43 PM
Turns out I didn't need a manual anyway, it's not real complicated. I got the new needle valve and seat and float body gasket installed but then we didn't have any gas! So I will have to get some gas tonight and test my work.

rb_in_va
06-12-2006, 05:21 PM
Also, I didn't realize how cheap the carb rebuild kit was ($8) or I would have gotten that from the get go! Now I've got some extra parts if I have other issues with the carb.

rb_in_va
06-16-2006, 09:49 AM
Ok, so I installed the new float, seat, and bowl body gasket. The good news is the leak is fixed. The bad news is the mower still won't start, without carb and choke cleaner that is. I don't think it's getting gas. I will tear it down and see if anything is clogged. Suggestions?

J&R Landscaping
06-17-2006, 09:13 PM
While warping/cracking of the AC base can be a cause of this.. I've happened upon another cause. The screw holes in the AC base are slightly larger than the screws. If you hold your hand under the base and apply slight upward pressure to hold the base up while you tighten the screws, it will allow the gasket a more positive seal against the carburetor face. I got tired of double gasketing the AC base to get the primer circuit to work and started looking more closely at where the gasket was not touching on the AC base ridge and found the above to work for sealing the gasket.
My service manager has me do the samne thing when I remove and re-install the airboxes. Tightening the bolts evenly is key...so he says and hes a bit pickey bout it!

J&R Landscaping
06-17-2006, 09:14 PM
Ok, so I installed the new float, seat, and bowl body gasket. The good news is the leak is fixed. The bad news is the mower still won't start, without carb and choke cleaner that is. I don't think it's getting gas. I will tear it down and see if anything is clogged. Suggestions?

Did you clean the jets out or replace them? Gum builds up in them quite easily!

rb_in_va
06-19-2006, 09:50 AM
Did you clean the jets out or replace them? Gum builds up in them quite easily!

I will give that a shot. I just moved this weekend so I haven't had time to take it apart yet. The problem is now I have grass to mow!:dizzy:

UBRKIFIX
06-19-2006, 12:36 PM
Yes take the mower to your BS dealer and they should warranty for you if not give briggs a call and they will take care of it.

rb_in_va
06-21-2006, 01:38 PM
I tried cleaning the jets on the carb, but it still doesn't seem to want to fire. I'm ready to go get a new carb. The grass is getting a little high.

Jay_eS_Iye
02-29-2008, 03:48 PM
I found this thread on Google after buying a used lawn mower only to find out when I got home that the tank was leaking. So I contacted B&S and I got this reply. I called a local dealer and they said to bring in this response and they'll replace it for free.



Justin,

Thank you for your inquiry. I sincerely apologize for the problems you have experienced with our product. Although no such recall exists, due to the possible fire hazards, please immediately stop using this equipment. It sounds to me that you may have a defective tank. Although the engine may be outside of the 2-year warranty period, you may be eligible for a policy adjustment if the tank is deemed defective due to material or workmanship from our factory.


In order to make a determination, I suggest consulting a Briggs & Stratton Authorized Dealer located in your area. Your best source of information regarding any engine concern would be a Briggs & Stratton Authorized Dealer. Your Briggs & Stratton Authorized Dealer has all the information relating to Briggs & Stratton warranty information, replacement engines, short blocks, parts, pricing, service/repair, specifications, etc.
For your convenience, we offer three easy ways to locate your nearest Briggs & Stratton Authorized Dealers:
Use our website's Service Center Locator.
Visit www.yellowpages.com and enter "Lawn Mowers" or "Engines-Gasoline" in the Category search field and your Postal Code in the Location search field.
Call the Briggs & Stratton Automated Hotline at (800) 233-3723. This hotline is available 24 hours a day/7 days a week and features voice recognition technology to assist you in finding the Briggs & Stratton Authorized Dealers in your area. Automated maintenance tips, product information, and FAQs are also offered through voice activated menus.
You may also purchase Genuine Briggs & Stratton Parts by calling 800-444-7774 or purchase, obtain stock status and pricing online direct from B & S by visiting the Briggs Power Shop

If you have any further questions, feel free to update this e-mail, or call our customer contact center at 800-274-4477, M-F 7-5PM CST.

Sincerely,
Mike
Briggs & Stratton
eCustomer Support Representative

jkason
03-01-2008, 11:20 PM
Normal warranty is 2 years from date of PURCHASE.
If it failed within that time, they should replace it for free.

Warranty parts MUST be installed by the dealer - no exceptions.

Parts (purchased over the counter) are warranted for 90, repeat 90, days.
Find a new dealer if he wont live up to his end of the bargain (and report him to Briggs for being a D***head and violating his dealer agreement).

Parts you can install yourself. (A fuel tank is easy.)


Oh yeah - If this thing hasn't been running for a while, like within the last 6 months, have the dealer do a carb kit if you don't think you can handle that.

newz7151
03-02-2008, 12:50 AM
Normal warranty is 2 years from date of PURCHASE.
If it failed within that time, they should replace it for free.

Warranty parts MUST be installed by the dealer - no exceptions.

Parts (purchased over the counter) are warranted for 90, repeat 90, days.
Find a new dealer if he wont live up to his end of the bargain (and report him to Briggs for being a D***head and violating his dealer agreement).

Parts you can install yourself. (A fuel tank is easy.)


Oh yeah - If this thing hasn't been running for a while, like within the last 6 months, have the dealer do a carb kit if you don't think you can handle that.

The cracks on the 699374 (and other numbers with the spring start) all crack in the same two places, thereby making this a design and manufacturing flaw instead of abuse. I've got at least 30 on our spring order waiting to come in.