sprinkler guy dictates watering schedule?

[bobbygedd]

i have a new fert account. generally, i don't take fert only, but it's a 5th generation referel, so, i took it. i told him the way i want it watered is- 1.5 hrs, per zone, twice a week. his sprinkler guy told him, that's obsurd, cus with the amount of zones he has, he will be watering for 10 hrs by the time the cycle is complete. his srinkler guy told him, the system should be set, at 20 minutes per zone, every other day. i said, enjoy your weeds. input please

[RLSLandscaping]

does he have a well? or is city water? if it's city and u run it like u want he will get a crazy bill...you want him to keep yer watering program for how long? a couple days just to water in yer fert? that's no biggy, but to change it for the whole season sounds a little much...heck you water it too much and u get weeds everywhere...there must be restrictions on watering times etc...Florida everyone has designated days depending on address, even in massachusetts we're heavily restricted...just talk to the irrigation tech!

[wski4fun]

20 min. is to short, we all know that. 1.5 hrs may be to long. How many inches do you think 1.5hrs get you. I thought it was good for about 1inch a week although I don't know that for sure. At the least I would suggest 45 min 2-3 times per week

[Ol'time Lawncare]

i have a new fert account. generally, i don't take fert only, but it's a 5th generation referel, so, i took it. i told him the way i want it watered is- 1.5 hrs, per zone, twice a week. his sprinkler guy told him, that's obsurd, cus with the amount of zones he has, he will be watering for 10 hrs by the time the cycle is complete. his srinkler guy told him, the system should be set, at 20 minutes per zone, every other day. i said, enjoy your weeds. input please
Bottom line ,your sold them the fert program, the watering goes with that also.You should have control of the timer.I think maybe it's time to put another clause in your contract stating that you are incontrol of setting timers ect.You can't have the sprinkler guy dictate how to water.Next thing you know he will be telling your client how and when you should cut.

[wski4fun]

Ever have the fert guy tell your cust when and how we should mow. I have found that the fert guys in my area do more harm than good.

[dkeisala]

No pat answer on this one. Depends on many factors.

[Hank Reardon]

No pat answer on this one. Depends on many factors.

Exactly. All trades need to work together to obtain the best results for the customer. Have you tried to explain your request to the irrigation provider?

We are in a service industry and with coordination and respect for others, everyone benefits. Each part needs the other.

:drinkup:

[Fantasy Lawns]

1.5 hrs per zone .... WOW .... sometimes I get greedy n water my very front yard zone for this .... I'd say 3/4 of an inch per watering event is good ...

We're kinda slow down here ....but that normally comes out to 45 min per zone .... with water restrictions in our area we can water 2'xs per week .... so I could see in mid heat of Summer with no rain in sight bumping it up to 120% of the normal

[nelbuts]

Ok you are both wrong.

As a professional you should know this. Calabrate the system. Find out how much water is being applied per zone per ten minute time. Then adjust to your conditions. Most turf and shrubs only require about 3/4" of water per week. Maybe a little more when very hot and dry. But 1.5 hours per zone is wrong. Do a little research before you tell your customer something like that next time.:dizzy:

[Evergreenpros]

I hear this all the time "The sprinkler company said run my system everyday for 10 minutes" I ask them why and please explain the science behind that watering schedule? Their response: golf courses do. My response: Golf courses have to account for heavy traffic over their turf everyday, they cannot run their sprinkers for an hour or more since it would soften the ground and create mud/ruts/footprints. Golf courses have a watering schedule that is tailored toward the business they are in, not for the overall benefit of their turf.

Their grass is full of weeds and moss and they look at me for a fix. I tell them that all they're doing by watering 10 minutes a day is watering the moss and weed seed/seedlings, there isn't enough moisture to travel down into the soil where it will be useable by the grass. The idea is keep the top of the soil as dry as possible and keep 1-4 inches below wet.

It's funny because we had a really hot summer last year and I watered my grass 4 times and it stayed green. 1.5 hours per zone with no runoff. Hate to tell people but in Western Washington, with proper areation you only need a sprinkler system from July 4th to Labor day (2 months), sometimes less than that.

[lawnspecialties]

All my residentials, the irrigation system schedule is up to me. I set it, adjust it, winterize it, de-winterize it, etc. No problems.:)

[Dirty Water]

What a load of BS Bobby. I'm a professional irrigator. I won't tell you how to mow, and you don't tell me how to water.

First off, what type of zone? A Rotor zone will have a lower precipation rate than a spray/mist head zone. A multistream rotor zone like the Toro 300's or Mprotators will have even lower precipitation rates.

Secondly, what is the soil composition? An 1.5 hours on hard clay will give you a lake. You won't even see the water if it was on sand.

Finally, do you have any idea what the precipation rates of the sprinkler system is?

For what its worth, in decently draining soil, and with zones that have a balanced precipitation rate I usually start at about 45 minutes per rotor zone and 15-20 minutes per sprayhead zone.

Get some small containers, set them out in each zone and run the system. This lets you know how many inches it is putting down. Using that information, the grass type, and the soil type, you can accurately set the timer properly.

I don't care how many posts you have, people who don't have any idea what they are doing shouldn't be attemping to do other peoples jobs.

[Wet_Boots]

One problem with Bobby's desired schedule, is the watering restrictions that occasionally occur in the region. If they instruct you to water on an odd-even schedule, with possible restrictions on the watering hours on top of it, then the law has been laid down, and homeowners can struggle to parcel out the available watering time. Policemen knocking on doors will keep the citizens toeing the line. It's usually more practical to program a system to anticipate the usual watering restrictions, to save the homeowners any grief in the event of a drought. Often, that will mean odd-even day watering, or three (and sometimes even two) days a week.

Also missing from the original post is system and soil info. Rotor heads? Light or heavy? Mist heads? North Jersey? (clay soils) South Jersey shore? (sandier)

I have customers that never schedule any sprinkling. They just keep an eye on things, then manually begin a cycle of fairly deep watering when they see the lawn looking stressed.

[Evergreenpros]

What a load of BS Bobby. I'm a professional irrigator. I won't tell you how to mow, and you don't tell me how to water.

First off, what type of zone? A Rotor zone will have a lower precipation rate than a spray/mist head zone. A multistream rotor zone like the Toro 300's or Mprotators will have even lower precipitation rates.

Secondly, what is the soil composition? An 1.5 hours on hard clay will give you a lake. You won't even see the water if it was on sand.

Finally, do you have any idea what the precipation rates of the sprinkler system is?

For what its worth, in decently draining soil, and with zones that have a balanced precipitation rate I usually start at about 45 minutes per rotor zone and 15-20 minutes per sprayhead zone.

Get some small containers, set them out in each zone and run the system. This lets you know how many inches it is putting down. Using that information, the grass type, and the soil type, you can accurately set the timer properly.

I don't care how many posts you have, people who don't have any idea what they are doing shouldn't be attemping to do other peoples jobs.

Setting your sprinkler to adjust to poor soil conditions isn't going to solve turf problems. It's not the amount of water put down that matters, it's the amount that is absorbed. If soil cannot absorb a proper amount of water, then actions have to be taken to improve the absorbtion rate. Knowing water pressure, flow rates and area covered at different pressures coupled with simple math can tell you how much water will be put down in any given time period per head. So if there are areas of the lawn getting different amounts of water per hour then the sprinkler guy screwed up. If I installed the system and did a crappy job I'd tell them to run it 4-5 days a week for 15 min as well LOL So I guess we know where that thought process comes from!

[Ground Master]

like dirty water said precipitation rate and soil type play a huge part in how a lawn should be watered along with other factors (plant type, root depth, slope of area, sun/shade area, etc.). 1.5 hours per zone is simply nuts.

I highly suggest the irrigation auditor course available thru the irrigation association..........its time and money well spent.

[Dirty Water]

Setting your sprinkler to adjust to poor soil conditions isn't going to solve turf problems. It's not the amount of water put down that matters, it's the amount that is absorbed. If soil cannot absorb a proper amount of water, then actions have to be taken to improve the absorbtion rate. Knowing water pressure, flow rates and area covered at different pressures coupled with simple math can tell you how much water will be put down in any given time period per head. So if there are areas of the lawn getting different amounts of water per hour then the sprinkler guy screwed up. If I installed the system and did a crappy job I'd tell them to run it 4-5 days a week for 15 min as well LOL So I guess we know where that thought process comes from!

Heh.

Your clueless.

First off, Different types of heads are used for different situations. Fixed spray popups are good for small strips, or odd shaped area's.

Rotors are good for larger area's. These heads have drasticly different precipitation rates.

Because of that, rotor zones have to be ran for longer than sprayhead zones to put down the EXACT SAME AMOUNT OF WATER.


Ground absortion has nothing to do with balanced precipation. Thats not my job.

My job is to make sure that the entire yard gets complete coverage of the same precipation rate, without super-saturating the ground, or leaving it dry.

[Dirty Water]

Bump. Lets hear some more opinions on this.

[old dog 80]

Exactly. All trades need to work together to obtain the best results for the customer. Have you tried to explain your request to the irrigation provider?

We are in a service industry and with coordination and respect for others, everyone benefits. Each part needs the other.

:drinkup:
Problem is:after 20 years experience,all the big box fert companies blame
all the problems on the mowin dude.They have no respect,so they don't
get any.Most applicators can't even lay down a good fert pattern let alone
diagnose a problem.I have had some of them blame me for grub problems due
to poor mowing practice.After they put down grub control?I mow with sharp
blades and 3" height.

[topsites]

Sprinkler systems are but an aide, they were never intended to replace rain but merely exist to help keep the lawn green. As for actual effect, they are as good as having a come-along in an emergency but nothing replaces the tow truck, such as when comparing sprinkler systems to actual rain, they help a little bit and that is all they do.

Now I know 20 minutes is too short as much as every half-baked Lco anywhere in the USA, but 20 minutes is the standard setting for each and every sprinkler system I have ever dealt with. Over time I learned to accept this, and to work with the rain and the weather itself when it comes to ferts and just let them do their thing with the sprinklers because there is NO way NO customer is going 1.5 hours / zone with 6 zones, it just ain't happening, not even with 4-5 zones.

Now I fert twice / year, once in the early spring and again in the fall and usually always before they call for GOOD rain unless the temps are cooler, and most of my yards look pretty tough but no they don't compete with chemlawn but that's all good. A good time to fert in the spring is late march / early april. Right now it's a bit late because it's getting HOT and you do NOT want to fert in the heat unless you are right at 100 percent sure HEAVY rain is coming. In the fall, same thing except later is better for temps: If you fert in early september, watch the heat and again you should be certain of rain - Once october comes around, most anytime is safe so long it's in the 70's consistently.

Far as weeds, you've heard of Lawn weed killer? No, not Lawn & Weed Killer, but Lawn weed killer: Specifically intended for lawns, kills weeds but not the grass. Kills everything except crabgrass, for which there is Drive-75df

[Dirty Water]

Sprinkler systems are but an aide, they were never intended to replace rain but merely exist to help keep the lawn green. As for actual effect, they are as good as having a come-along in an emergency but nothing replaces the tow truck, such as when comparing sprinkler systems to actual rain, they help a little bit and that is all they do.

I bef to differ, and so do the installers in california, nevada and arizona.

[sheshovel]

Dirty Water is correct..the irrigation systems here ARE ment to replace rain...that is the reason they are installed.

[golfguy]

What ever happened to watering a lawn because it needed it?

I disagree with most statements posted here. Settings such as discussed here explain why I pass businesses and lawns at 4:00AM with there sprinklers running during the rain or the day after the rain or.........

[jerryrwm]

i have a new fert account. generally, i don't take fert only, but it's a 5th generation referel, so, i took it. i told him the way i want it watered is- 1.5 hrs, per zone, twice a week. his sprinkler guy told him, that's obsurd, cus with the amount of zones he has, he will be watering for 10 hrs by the time the cycle is complete. his srinkler guy told him, the system should be set, at 20 minutes per zone, every other day. i said, enjoy your weeds. input please

Maybe you would care to enlighten us and explain your reasoning. Or maybe you could give a few more facts concerning the actual system such as the type of heads, type of soil, sun exposure, average wind speed and direction of prevailing wind, slope of the property, average temp for the season, ET rate for the area, etc. You know things that need to be taken into account when setting an irrigation system.

If the heads are rotor heads set the proper distance apart with the correct nozzles then the precipitation rate is probably in the .3' - .35"/hr range. Then with your 1.5 hrs twice a week watering you would be putting down approx. 1" per week. That is usually the goal for most systems, and most LCO's tell their clients that is the mark to shoot for. But no one knows for sure and no one has been able to prove that grasses need 1" of water per week. That is just a made-up number that someone threw out to provide a simple answer and get someone off their back. I say this because the norm is 1" per week in Texas, 1" per week is the norm in Wisconsin, 1" per week is the norm in Tennessee, and probably in most of the other 48 contiguous states also. But the grasses are vastly different as are the climates, so how in the hell can the water requirements be the same? Can you answer that for me? In over 25 yrs no one has been able to show me a definitive study that nails down the mythical 1"/wk for all grasses.

On the other hand if the heads are properly spaced spray heads the precipitation rate is going to be in the 1.7" - 2.0"/hr range. Running the system three hours per week will put down nearly 6" of water. A little excessive I'd say, not to mention that you are either leaching all the nutrients down through the root zone, or they are being washed away in the run-off.

Also, tell that sprinkler guy that the controller could very easily be set up to water half the zones one night and the other half the next night. Repeat that cycle again and you have your twice a week watering and you are only watering 5 hours per cycle. It ain't rocket science folks. Just a little common sense.

[bobbygedd]

excuse my ignorance on this matter, as i was completely unaware that different heads/systems distribute water differently. i was comparing the system, to a standard watering sprinkler that one might use on a hose end, you know, the type that goes back and forth, back and forth........the smaller properties i do, that use this hose end sprinkler head, get watered 1.5 hrs per session, 2x per week

[topsites]

I bef to differ, and so do the installers in california, nevada and arizona.

Yes, if you can afford 3 and 4 hundred (I suspect a few thousand) dollar water bills then more power to you, but most folks here will NOT do it because we're not in a desert like those places, and neither is BG.

If you look on google earth you can see the whole east coast is almost always ALL green! That is because we get a LOT of rain and for the most part we don't have those mile-long farm-sprinkler tubes-on-wheels drag it with tractors dang turbine jet powered pump 100,000 gallons / hour from the lake to the desert stuff, we just don't got it and our systems aren't designed for it.

Ok so I'm exaggerating, it's to make a point.
This is NOT an east-coast sprinkler system lol:
http://www.thom.org/photos/ILTCsprinkler.jpg

[jameson]

If you look on google earth you can see the whole east coast is almost always ALL green!



Well hot-dog! I will tell all my customers that I will not turn on their irrigation systems this summer...and if they ask why (you KNOW how customers can get all uppity), I will reply "that whole west coast is almost always green, look on google earth, see for yourself."

Thanx topsites :clapping: , good post.

James

[Dirty Water]

Yes, if you can afford 3 and 4 hundred (I suspect a few thousand) dollar water bills then more power to you, but most folks here will NOT do it because we're not in a desert like those places, and neither is BG.

Effiecient design doesn't waste water. Over here the average water bill only goes up $20-$30 a month.

As I said before, It takes a lot of trench time and research to become profiecient at irrigation. If you don't know what your doing, don't do it. People like you guys are the reasion why we have plenty of repair work.

[topsites]

Effiecient design doesn't waste water. Over here the average water bill only goes up $20-$30 a month.

As I said before, It takes a lot of trench time and research to become profiecient at irrigation. If you don't know what your doing, don't do it. People like you guys are the reasion why we have plenty of repair work.

Well ok, I stand corrected but again BG and I are on the east coast, I'm not arguing about the effectiveness and cost of your sprinkler systems per se (ok I did but I'm sorry and you are right)... I am merely saying that BG will likely find it difficult, here on the east coast, to attempt to dictate customer's sprinkler system schedules for all the reasons previously mentioned.

Another quote (not yours):
Well hot-dog! I will tell all my customers that I will not turn on their irrigation systems this summer...and if they ask why (you KNOW how customers can get all uppity), I will reply "that whole west coast is almost always green, look on google earth, see for yourself."

ahhh nevermind, look I have customers who don't run their systems all year, that's just the way it is. Certainly I won't stop someone from running theirs but at the same rate I don't try and interfere with their thing when it means they will have to spend a ton of money on water, not to mention we have laws go into effect during droughts...
To each their own but as for me, I find the path of least resistance is to just let this stuff happen, I stay out of customer's sprinkler systems and their schedules, the only thing I have to know is if they are using it or intend to use it.
As for BG and fertilization, you might check into liquid ferts.

[TurfProSTL]

Get some small containers, set them out in each zone and run the system. This lets you know how many inches it is putting down. Using that information, the grass type, and the soil type, you can accurately set the timer properly.
This is what I ask our irrigated customers to do. Then, we figure out their watering schedule.

See, even some of us old fert guys can figure this out.....

[bumper]

excuse my ignorance on this matter, as i was completely unaware that different heads/systems distribute water differently. i was comparing the system, to a standard watering sprinkler that one might use on a hose end, you know, the type that goes back and forth, back and forth........the smaller properties i do, that use this hose end sprinkler head, get watered 1.5 hrs per session, 2x per week

It does matter the type of soil being irrigated as does what plant material vs sod being irrigated. There are several calculations one needs to take into consideration when laying out or programming an irrigation system. Knowing PR, matched PR, GPM per head are the basics. And the kind that goes back and forth, back and forth is called an impact head. Would you put spray heads and impact heads on the same valve? just curious.

[bug-guy]

i not sure in N.J. but here in fla. i rec. rain gauges to find water output
we are on water restrict and ask for 3/4 inche per watering (2 days a wk)
i would think up north would be less

[Diesel-1984]

talk to your client about adding a new sprinkler system that uses sensors that detect the amount of mositure in the ground, or lack there of, and automatcially water the lawn accordingly. Those systems take into account the current rainfall, so if it rains a lot the system wont run, saving money. It's the wave of the future for sprinkler systems, then the customer can call his sprinkler guy, or you can find a Co that installs them, talk to them about subbing, and maybe work with them to learn how to put the systems in and get licensed later on. you're good to go either way and so if the customer.

[ICT Bill]

Diesel
here in Maryland they are trying to pass legislation that every NEW irrigation system must have a rain sensor on it.
Big boon to the sensor manufacturers, but meant to keep water consumption down

It is not as big of a business around here because we get 35 to 45 inches of rain per year and have clay soils. You only really need irrigation in August and beginning of September around here

You know what was never answered in this thread? What constitutes deep watering? My assumption is that deep watering is much better for grass than the 10 minute blast 4 times a day (unless its new seed)

[Diesel-1984]

A new study I learned of from Rutgers University showed the best time to water is from 10pm to 4 am (I believe). I know it stated night watering is more beneficial apparently than doing so in early morning. Watering in the afternoon is wasteful because it evaporates before it has a chance to soak into the soil. As for the amount of time, the best penetration is 3-6 inches into the earth (the common root system of most grasses), which can be attained with about 30 minutes of watering.

[TurfProSTL]

So Rutgers has no problem with the grass being wet all night? Wouldn't that promote turfgrass disease?

A link to that study would be helpful.....

[jimmyburg]

A new study I learned of from Rutgers University showed the best time to water is from 10pm to 4 am (I believe). I know it stated night watering is more beneficial apparently than doing so in early morning. Watering in the afternoon is wasteful because it evaporates before it has a chance to soak into the soil. As for the amount of time, the best penetration is 3-6 inches into the earth (the common root system of most grasses), which can be attained with about 30 minutes of watering.

dont always Believe what you read.i set my clocks to come on at 3 or 4am before everyone takes thier showers.

[landscaper22]

10 pm is a little early. A good rule of thumb is for the grass not to remain wet for more than 8 hours. I encourage my customers to water between 3 am and 7 am. Never before midnight. The longer the grass is wet, the more likely a disease will set in. Moisture is a breeding ground for fungus.

[AI Inc]

dont always Believe what you read.i set my clocks to come on at 3 or 4am before everyone takes thier showers.

You got that right, there is an old saying , those that can do , those that cant , teach or write. Around here we set em in the AM before the customer wakes up. On very large systems on weak wells we will do a split watering.

[GravelyNut]

dont always Believe what you read.i set my clocks to come on at 3 or 4am before everyone takes thier showers.The correct time to water is between 4 AM and 10 AM. Any time earlier will cause disease problems if the soil and grass remains wettoo long. After 10 AM causes higher evaporation losses before it gets to the ground. A good soaking once a week is better than running it daily for short periods each day. You want the water down in the deep root area, not on the top of the soil where the grass will then produce a thatchy condition. And in S. Fl., it is illegal to water more than twice a week in most areas. With further restrictions coming next month to one day a week. Times are 4 to 8 AM only for irrigation systems and 5 PM to 7 PM for hand watering on the same day as the sprinklers can run.


Now what do I know about it? 8.5 years working for the IFAS Research Center where we watered twice a week for all crops unless water restrictions were in affect or it rained. 1 " of water per week is what we shot for. The same as we averaged if it rained a normal amount. And 17.5 years working for the local Water Management District. UofF/IFAS did most of the research to come up with the data to set the scheduling.

I used the Troxler units while at the IFAS to check soil moisture levels for crops in the field and groves for about a year. Soil moisture sensors are the best way to go for determining when watering needs done within any restrictions placed by the water managers.

[Diesel-1984]

So Rutgers has no problem with the grass being wet all night? Wouldn't that promote turfgrass disease?

A link to that study would be helpful.....

I'll look for it, and they said it wouldn't promote disease like we all think.

[AI Inc]

A good soaking once a week is better than running it daily for short periods each day. You want the water down in the deep root area, not on the top of the soil where the grass will then produce a thatchy condition.


.

That theory works in some conditions and not in others. Ive seen plenty of lawns go dormant mid summer because someone read that or heard it from a friend, when in reality it will never work on their property.

[PHS]

But no one knows for sure and no one has been able to prove that grasses need 1" of water per week. That is just a made-up number that someone threw out to provide a simple answer and get someone off their back. I say this because the norm is 1" per week in Texas, 1" per week is the norm in Wisconsin, 1" per week is the norm in Tennessee, and probably in most of the other 48 contiguous states also. But the grasses are vastly different as are the climates, so how in the hell can the water requirements be the same? Can you answer that for me? In over 25 yrs no one has been able to show me a definitive study that nails down the mythical 1"/wk for all grasses.

Hi Jerry,
First, so you don't misunderstand me, I'm about the stingiest person you'll find when it comes to irrigation water :). Most of my customers get mad because down here I leave the systems off almost the whole year and only turn them on for an occasional dry spell. But based on this comment I did a non-scientific google search on average ET rates from around the country during the summer months and even into the spring and fall and it looked to me like 1"ET/Wk was a reasonable ballparkish average. Obviously because of rainfall and a myriad of other factors you don't have to irrigate that much per week but as an "ET rule of thumb" that looked about right.

[Dunn's]

I didn't bother to read the whole thread but we water or we tell them to water. Once per week we usually water all the lawns on monday. For 2 hours.. Our lawns are the greennest in the neighborhoods even the one with out a fertilizer program. Watering for ten to twenty minutes is the stupidest thing ever if doing so the customers thinks they aren't spending as much on water. That is stupid as well they hired you to take care of their lawn because from what they usually look like when you show up. It is obvious they had no idea what they where doing.

But answer this if you water it for 20 minutes a day five+ days a week. How much water is that?

The exact same amount as watering one day for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

if done correctly you water it every monday in July for 2 hours. you won't need to water except maybe once in August.

[AI Inc]

Im just amazed that so many of you guys customers lawn are exactly the same amount of sun/shade , soil type. No septic systems built with gravel and sand. To say you can water all your customers lawns the same way and time ammounts is truely rediculous.

[Dunn's]

That theory works in some conditions and not in others. Ive seen plenty of lawns go dormant mid summer because someone read that or heard it from a friend, when in reality it will never work on their property.

The reason it doesn't work on their property is because they don't do it. If you actually do it is is a hundred times better then the ten minutes everyday crap. That was only invented because lets face people are lazy and/or stupid. and believe that water costs a fortune. The funny part is they have no problem paying a fortune for the same water they are putting on their lawn packaged in bottles. Water from you homes water line is so cheap it is crazy. We pay between $70.00 and $80.00 dollars every 3 months for water and we don't skimp on it ever. I drink 1-2 gallons everyday. We shower until the water gets cold every time. Which is 45-minutes to an hour. We water the hell out of our own lawn. Sometimes for 4+ hours once a week. We do tons of laundry because of the we wash all uniforms that where worn everyday or every other day. Etc......etc.... Oh yeah and one of the bath tubs leaks drips really bad all the time no matter how much you tighten it. But the cat likes it so he has fresh water all the time.

It's amazing how tight people are with their money when it comes to watering their lawn or leaving the porch light on. But they waste thousands a year on fast food, cigarettes, alcohol, drugs.

Ok my rant is done.

[Dunn's]

Im just amazed that so many of you guys customers lawn are exactly the same amount of sun/shade , soil type. No septic systems built with gravel and sand. To say you can water all your customers lawns the same way and time ammounts is truely rediculous.



Forgot since advanced brung it up. These numbers I am giving are the minimum amount of water we suggest. We prefer more and when we are in charge of the water it usually is 3+ hours.

[AI Inc]

Its not a matter of being cheap , 1/2 my customers are on wells and dont pay for water. Its a matter of filtration. If the builder installed the lawn ( in my area ) there is approxaMATLY 1/4-1/2 of loam if any at all. My area is a gravel /sand base after 20 minutes to a 1/2 hr it is basicaly just filtering thru. Not all lawns , but most. We also dont have city sewers wich means septic systems built of sand and gravel. Sometimes these sand boxes in front lawns full sun require 3 waterings a day during july and Augest. And obviously there are zones in the rear yard that have a lot more shade that require much less water. They may get by with watering once a week , but to do so for 1 to 1-1/2 hrs would render the rear yard useless for the next 2 days as they would be flooded out.

[Dunn's]

Its not a matter of being cheap , 1/2 my customers are on wells and dont pay for water. Its a matter of filtration. If the builder installed the lawn ( in my area ) there is approxaMATLY 1/4-1/2 of loam if any at all. My area is a gravel /sand base after 20 minutes to a 1/2 hr it is basicaly just filtering thru. Not all lawns , but most. We also dont have city sewers wich means septic systems built of sand and gravel. Sometimes these sand boxes in front lawns full sun require 3 waterings a day during july and Augest. And obviously there are zones in the rear yard that have a lot more shade that require much less water. They may get by with watering once a week , but to do so for 1 to 1-1/2 hrs would render the rear yard useless for the next 2 days as they would be flooded out.

Well of course if they have sand instead of dirt that is the exception. But why would you plant grass in sand anyway. It just looks horrible. When I was in georgia all the grass looked like crap.

[GravelyNut]

Im just amazed that so many of you guys customers lawn are exactly the same amount of sun/shade , soil type. No septic systems built with gravel and sand. To say you can water all your customers lawns the same way and time ammounts is truely rediculous.

Heck, all of our septic systems here have gravel and sand. In fact, the soils down here have little else other than a small amount of clay. But yes, we are the exception as we can get up to 18" of rain one day, and it be gone the next. Here's what the yard looks like after one of those days.