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lawnspecialties
05-11-2006, 09:07 PM
We have a 30' travel trailer I pull behind the F-250 whenever I can squeeze some time away from people's yards. The hitch weight is around 800 lbs.. I have a Reese 1000/1200 lb. weight distribution hitch with dual-cam sway control bars to connect the two. I can't for the life of me figure out how to level the truck with this hitch. It was set by the dealer for my '01 F-250 but now I have an '05. The rear bumper is 30" from the ground alone but only 28" from the ground with the TT. The TT sits just as level as can be but the truck still sags. Two inches isn't drastic but I can sure see the difference.

I've moved the adjustable ball mount bolts both up and down. The chains are only four links long when tightened and I don't have room to shorten that anymore. Am I missing something? Is there anything else I can do. This truck also has the "camper package" which gives it extra support in back so there really shouldn't be any sag at all with a 1200 lb. hitch. Thanks ya'll.:confused:

oldrustycars
05-11-2006, 11:22 PM
i went to Reese hitch factory school, and have set up many dual cam sway controls. first, you need a level, straight area to set this up. with the trailer off, mark a spot on the front and rear wheelwells as a reference for measuring from the ground. measure both, and mark them down. now, with the trailer level, measure ground to the top inside of the coupler. mark that down. set the height of the ball mount so the top of the ball is about 3/4 inch above the coupler height. hook the trailer up, with the ball mounted tilted back about half way in its travel. the spring bars should be below the bottom of the trailer tongue frame, between 1 and 2 inches. now, you need to fiddle with the chains and the angle of the ball mount until the front and rear of the truck come down the same amount, im guessing it'll sag less than an inch. tilting the ball mount back will allow more tension on the chains. you can also use a bolt between two links to take up half a link. this may be time consuming, but you must do it. once you get this right, with the dual cam brackets loose, drive the whole unit straight and level for at least 100 feet. now tap the u bolts that hold the dual cams to the frame so the cams seat together just right in the middle. tighten everything up and you're good to go. never ever grease the dual cams. use the tongue jack to jack up the trailer and truck will make the chains easier to snap up. i often had to move around tanks and stuff on the tongue, but the dual cam HAD to be in one spot, other stuff could be moved. any more qustions, PM me, glad to help.

lawnspecialties
05-15-2006, 08:24 PM
i went to Reese hitch factory school, and have set up many dual cam sway controls. first, you need a level, straight area to set this up. with the trailer off, mark a spot on the front and rear wheelwells as a reference for measuring from the ground. measure both, and mark them down. now, with the trailer level, measure ground to the top inside of the coupler. mark that down. set the height of the ball mount so the top of the ball is about 3/4 inch above the coupler height. hook the trailer up, with the ball mounted tilted back about half way in its travel. the spring bars should be below the bottom of the trailer tongue frame, between 1 and 2 inches. now, you need to fiddle with the chains and the angle of the ball mount until the front and rear of the truck come down the same amount, im guessing it'll sag less than an inch. tilting the ball mount back will allow more tension on the chains. you can also use a bolt between two links to take up half a link. this may be time consuming, but you must do it. once you get this right, with the dual cam brackets loose, drive the whole unit straight and level for at least 100 feet. now tap the u bolts that hold the dual cams to the frame so the cams seat together just right in the middle. tighten everything up and you're good to go. never ever grease the dual cams. use the tongue jack to jack up the trailer and truck will make the chains easier to snap up. i often had to move around tanks and stuff on the tongue, but the dual cam HAD to be in one spot, other stuff could be moved. any more qustions, PM me, glad to help.

Man! Now that's a response! We just got back from a weekend trip so I'll be working on it this week. Thanks, I'll let you know how it works out.:)

oldrustycars
05-15-2006, 08:50 PM
i really like those dual cam sway controls, and like em to be set up perfect. if you dont set em up right, they actually cause sway. friction sway controls just dont cut it, but i suppose they're better than nothing.