Residential valves?

[lawnmaniac883]

About 3 years back I had new valves and wiring installed to my existing system. 3 years later, these valves are doing nothing but stick. I have disassembled all valves and cleaned the rods out/inspected diaphrams as well as replaced faulty solenoids. One zone ran for 8 hours straight last night and that has really sent me over the top here.

Now for my question. The installer put in Iritrol 205S valves. Did he go cheap on me or are these good valves just messing up for some reason? I have used this guy on several properties from full systems to repair jobs and he has done very well.

If these iritrol valves are garbage, what would you guys recommend I have installed in their place? Thanks

[ICS]

I have never used them (that particular model) but I would not call an irritrol valve garbage. I would consider them a higher tier valve manufacturer.

[Wet_Boots]

I have disassembled all valves and cleaned the rods out/inspected diaphrams as well as replaced faulty solenoids.

If these iritrol valves are garbage, what would you guys recommend I have installed in their place? ThanksThe Irritrol 205 is the same as the original Richdel R204, the single most successful plastic control valve, period. But they were indended to run on fairly clean water. Does your water source contain particulate matter? If you're pumping from a well point, the point might be passing sand through, which should be strained out right after the pump, before the water reaches any valves. (and heads)

A system that must pass debris in the water, like some pond-water systems, should probably use a different valve. The very best of the dirty-water valves will usually be brass. ($$$$)

[Dirty Water]

Rainbird Solinoids have a 100 mesh screen built in, so if you do have dirty water, replacement with Rainbird DVF's should all but fix your problem.

BTW Boots, we use Rainbird Scrubbers with great success on marginally dirty water systems (We also filter the water).

[Keith]

For residentials, we have used mostly Irritrol 2400 and 205 valves over the years. They have been pretty solid. One thing that sticks in my mind though, we did have a 12 zone system that we installed about 6 years ago that had several valve problems within two years. I personally remember servicing it on three different occasions. It was on city water, in a neighborhood where I had done several installs and serviced a good number of the residences. In seven or eight years, I only recall having one valve crap out, then this place spit out three in a year. In one I found what looked like a stone made from mineral buildup.

[Wet_Boots]

The Rainbird rep I spoke to was less than totally enthusiastic about the ability of much of the standard stuff to deal with heavy algae, which some of the older impact-head systems would just blow through the sprinklers, with minimal coarse-mesh straining. The Rainbird EFA series brass valves take the filtering a step further by putting the (large) solenoid screen in the flow passage, which helps keep it clear.

This guy might just have a bad lot of solenoids, but the 'cleaning the rods' phrase has me wondering about the water supply.

[lawnmaniac883]

The rods were loaded with sulfur. I have a shallow well setup with 5 points down. No filters on anything except the heads. If I tap on the valve with a hammer then they will shutoff. Any other suggestions? Looks like the rainbirds have good reviews thus far.

[Wet_Boots]

The rods were loaded with sulfur. I have a shallow well setup with 5 points down. No filters on anything except the heads. If I tap on the valve with a hammer then they will shutoff. Any other suggestions? Looks like the rainbirds have good reviews thus far.Heavy minerals is kind of a special application. Perhaps any metal in the flow path is susceptible to deposits. See any sulfur buildup anywhere else?

[lawnmaniac883]

Sulfur on the plastic housing and pipes as well. I assumed sulfur buildup was normal though. Orange pipes...

[Wet_Boots]

To me, orange deposits would indicate iron. I've seen iron-laden water gum up lots of systems. You can test for it, and with a shallow well pump, even neutralize it with a product like Rid O' Rust.

[lawnmaniac883]

Could easily be iron now that I think of it. Neutralizing a constant flow of water with a product is inconcievable IMO. I need valves that will tolerate the iron and still perform like new. Obviously the iritrols arent the valves lol.

[Wet_Boots]

I only mention the iron treatments in case someone with iron stains is reading this. There is no product whatsoever that will make up for a substandard water supply. I use 100 mesh stainless steel straining on any well I work with, and I do have to clean the strainer screen now and then. But the Irritrol valves that follow have not had a problem, even with iron-heavy water. Without any straining of that supply, you are just asking for problems, especially if the well points are the galvanized steel type.

[lawnmaniac883]

Where can I get the 100 mesh straining stuff? Is there a kit or something? Thanks for the help.

[Wet_Boots]

I use Vu-Flow strainers, which have PVC socket bodies, to glue into the above-ground plumbing after the pump. The standard version will have a nylon screen, but I prefer the stainless, so I can scrub it clean if need be. I know of one iron-water pump owner that kept the original nylon screen, but bought some spares, and a couple of jars of anti-rust solution to place a rusty screen in, while a fresh one took its place. A well-water-equipment supplier can get you the Vu-Flow stuff, as well as a sprinkler supplier like John Deere Landscapes.

[lawnmaniac883]

Sounds good, will shop around come monday for the parts. I really appreciate you taking your time to give me a hand with this. Mowing is my thing...not so much irrigation.