View Full Version : Hauling your equipment
05-23-2006, 12:11 AM
What Kind of trailer do you guys use for hauling your excavators/skidsteers? I am using a 14K 14ft dump trailer for hauling my excavator and skidsteer around and ready to get something a little better suited for equipment. Looking at either a 16'+4 tilt trailer (16 tilt/4 stationary) or a 20' beavertail w/ spring loaded ramps. Not sure of all the advantages/disadvantages of either and looking for input.
05-23-2006, 12:20 AM
thats funny i move my stuff with a 24 gooseneck. and i am wanting a goose neck dump. i get so tired of shoveling out the bed of my truck
05-23-2006, 12:26 AM
Oh man, I would never sell my dump trailer, I'm still keeping it. It's just a pain to load equipment in and out. I still giggle everytime I dump a load of dirt/gravel/brush/debris instead of shoveling or throwing!
05-23-2006, 12:34 AM
I hate hauling equipment in our dump trailer. While I can do it, I don't. When we first bought it, we hauled our skid steer in it, but we try to avoid it. Chaining the machine is a PITA and the ramps are steeper than hell. Just not an ideal hauler.
We have a 16+5 tiltbed rated for 12K, but I wish it was rated for 14K or even 16K. Our 277 will barely fit on it so we'll eventually have to get another trailer or we'll just tough it out with our deckover gooseneck until next spring when we get a triaxle and a 20 ton tiltbed. Needless to say, we will not buy another ramp trailer, having a tiltbed is just so much easier.
05-23-2006, 01:05 AM
skag48, do you ever find that you would have an easier time getting more attachments on a flatbed instead of a tilt bed? Reason I ask is that I've been told that it can be a pain getting attachments on a tilt bed and then getting the equip. back on?? When I say flatbed I mean between the wheels, not over. I agree with it being a PITA getting the equip on and tied down w/ my dump. I do a lot of smaller jobs that require a couple of pieces of equipment and it gets to be a lot of loading and unloading. The width of the dump trailer also is a pain for getting power rake and other wider attachments on.
tilt-bed is quite a bit safer to load when raining...
I'd get GVW ~ 20k as it is good to have 'too-much' strength in a trailer (brakes / tires and Steel) length is troublesome in rural forested / steep areas, and in tight city subdivisions too
I am on the 'eternal' quest for a 'roll-off' (hook-lift) demolition truck. They are becoming quite popular, and hard to find used. variety of beds available, and I will be making a 'rack' for my attachments.
05-23-2006, 01:20 AM
The roll-offs are awesome but have lots of other toys on the wish list ahead of that. I am leaning toward the tilt, just want to make sure that it isn't a problem getting a couple attachments on board. I also kind of worry about going to a 20', I've had a few tight ones with 14' and 20 would have been a major PITA, but if I'm going to buy, I need more room for attachments.
05-23-2006, 01:22 AM
How many attachments do you have? We can put the Harley rake on the front on the stationary deck, tilt the bed down and put blocks between the stationary deck and the tilted up deck so that when you put any weight on it, it won't tilt down. So then we side load the forks and combo bucket on each side in front of the wheels and then back skid steer with the trencher attached onto the trailer, pull the blocks and let the trailer tilt back onto the frame. Chain up and go. I could see a disadvantage if you were always hauling attachments, but with landscape sites, most are never done in less than a week so we have to go back to the site every day allowing us to take 2 attachments one day and maybe 1 or 2 more the next.
Definately get a 20', you won't be sorry. Sometimes I wish we had a 24' and I thought our 21' would be too big.
05-23-2006, 01:32 AM
That makes sense and covers the disadvantage I've heard w/ tilts. My most common is to carry a bucket, Harley rake and a box type blade for skidsteer, W/ tractor it's tiller and box blade. Excavator is no prob w/ just buckets. Off subject but do you use a tilt bucket for your excavators? I would like to get one.
05-23-2006, 01:59 AM
I would like to have one, but I've got to put a cap on the spending for a while. I think I'd rather have one for our 303 rather than the 312, but I just don't know how much we'd use it. We have trenching and cleanup buckets for both machines, a definate excavator "must have".
05-23-2006, 02:24 AM
A rolloff truck is the easy way of moving mini excavators or bobcats also double as a dump truck.
I agree with the others a tilt deck is the best type of trailer no ramps to deal with. If you have a truck with a long enough wheelbase you can carry the machine attachements on the truck. You can have a trailer with a fixed front portion deck but most of the time you want the machine far enough forward to get hitch weight and the excavator boom curled in so your not over height.
05-23-2006, 09:08 AM
I have a 14k 24' Gooseneck that I use, it has 5' fold-up ramps. I can carry my Skid with bucket attached, a 60" Brush cutter, 72" Grapple Bucket, and a set of Pallet forks. I could carry more if I built a small rack at the front to hold buckets above the deck. 24' is long, but a gooseneck is more manueverable than a bumper pull. I have gotten comfortable with the length and I will pull it almost anywhere my 16' bumper pull will go. I pull with a crewcab long bed which makes it that much more of a challenge. I need lots of room for a turn around.
05-23-2006, 06:10 PM
I am in the EXACT same situatioin right now. I have a 7X14 dump trailer I use to haul my 43 EX around in as well the T300. Moving them both to a job site as well as all the attachments is a PIA. Especially when I rent a brushcutter or some other large attachment. Usually it means going to the jobsite, dropping off the machine, then going to the rental yard to pick up the attachemnt. I am right now looking at a C7500 GMC 25^3yrd grapple truck with a lightning loader, and possably a flatbed trailer to tow the machine with me. This way I can load the attachments into the truck, and tow the machine behind me. I would LOVE to get a rolloff truck to put everything in, but that isnt feasable right now. The guys who have the truck im looking to purchase also runs a year old sterling rolloff truck with a prentice 124 loader behind the cab. SWEET truck, with I had the 170K to go buy one.
05-23-2006, 06:27 PM
no, that isnt me. just thought you'd like the pic...
05-23-2006, 10:36 PM
what kind of attachments can you get with that? Is it hard to find service for it? Probably helps with difficult customers to cool them off huh? Well the feedback here has been great, I have been leaning toward tilt/stationary and think I'm going to go that route. I've been hammering my dump trailer and ramps lately and kind of ready for something easier. Hate spending more money, but it's a great tax right off, (I keep telling myself that).
I have a 31' gooseneck 24K GVW a 20' pull behind Towmaster 18K GVW and a 16' Walton 12K GVW. The Towmaster really is an awesome trailer. It was not cheap. I learned my lesson on trying to skimp on a trailer. I bought a 14K 20' PJ trailer. It was a complete POS. My Walton pull behind is going to turn itself into a Towmaster by the end of the year. Walton makes a good trailer it is just due to rotate out.
05-25-2006, 12:26 PM
I currently use a 14k pintle hook PJ Trailer with 20 ft. flat deck. Enough room for me to haul my RC-100, bucket, and Loftness Carbide Cutter at once. I will soon be trading up for a 10 ton Pro Line as I am almost maxing out the 14k with the RC-100 and the Cutting Head.
using a flatbed for tow vehicle, or one with fold down sides can get you a few more attachments to the job site. I usually put a couple heavy ones on the truck. It also helps to get them closer to the work area, if the trailer has to stay on the street.
05-25-2006, 09:33 PM
I use a 28' x 102" flat bed, 25,900 gvw gooseneck trailer pulled by a F350 CC/SB to haul an ASV RC-100. It's big but no problem bringing attachments along, bradco 611 hoe, harley mx-8, 4 in 1 bucket & set of forks. I looked at 14K goosenecks but they weigh 4k and with the ASV at 10K you are already at the limit without additional attachments. Overkill is not a bad thing when it comes to being safe on the road, as said before, extra tires and brakes.
05-25-2006, 10:33 PM
Invest In A "ez-dumper"!!!!!!!!
05-26-2006, 12:57 AM
Whats a ez-dumper?? I know I need a flatbed for my truck, I have just been dragging my feet on getting one. Thanks for all the input.
check this topic under trucks and trailers section - Truck and Trailer In One
basically the 'hook-lift' system, common for drop boxes (demolition / trash)
an now lots of bed options available (tanks, flat, dump, container,,,)
there are several manufacturers including "swap-loader", "Magnum"...
plus' are; 'fast, ez, safe, & compact', load equip from ground, more versitile use from expensive capital, and with the big boys, you can get a 'pup' arrangement and load additional boxes on trailer with your 'hook lift' (advantage over cable lift)
minus' ; expensive, potential need for multiple trips to site (having the wrong box, or needing multiple) Basically trucks are generally pretty cheap, but a hook lift system can add $50k in a snap (boxes extra !!) that $$ could likely be put to use in 'revenue generating' equipt, rather than a 'cursed' truck that costs you lots of money for limited (and nominal profit) use.
What size flatbed do you need?, I keep my eyes open, a good PNW place to find them is 'Capital Press' regional farm paper. (Ca-OR-WA-ID-MT) I know of a couple FS nearby 8-10ft
05-26-2006, 05:51 PM
3 trucks for the price of one.
if your any good at welding and steel fabrication you could get a hook lift and buy an old flat deck and 3 yard dump and modify them to be used with the system.
05-26-2006, 11:45 PM
I'm looking for a 20 ft in either a 16+4 tilt or even a beaver tail w/ ramps. prefer the tilt though. I'll check out that paper, never looked there before. You live by one of my favorite motocross tracks, at Washougal. I used to ride and race there a lot, but not so much anymore.
...You live by one of my favorite motocross tracks, at Washougal. I used to ride and race there a lot, but not so much anymore. I'll trade you the MC for some of your local Ice Cream and home cookin !! (I used to race semi-pro, but too old now, tho still have 7 MC's, they got much more use in Colorado (sunshine :) )
We'll be up for WWU grad in a couple weeks, and will be staying in Lynden.
Tempted to bring my Trailer and drag home a few attachments from SSS. (HD auger and Boom) But the rain has stopped my cash flow for last 3 weeks... And I will be better off driving my 52mpg Passat; 10 hr RT(no hitch, yet..., was gonna get at Canadian Tire, but... they discontinued it this year:rolleyes: ))
What is your tow vehicle?
I have a 20,000 'Eager Beaver' Triple axle beavertail, 17' Flat W/4'tail, and 7' tongue. (4400#EW) It really tows nice, but could be more efficient space wise. (but it was cheap, $1200) I tow with a 1T 4x4 cummins Cab and Chassis (10' flatbed, '93 = 160 hp) (tad whimpy as I cleared the scales at 27,800 last trip to Chehalis, but it was cheap too, $5000) Decent economy, ~10 and 17 mpg depending on terrain and load.
I usually place bucket in grapple and put on frt of tralier, then two attachments on the truck, (usually Chipper and Stumpgrinder, or mower) and a heavy one on the skid, then back it onto the trailer, but... you need to have an extra hand to fold up ramps before you drop the attachment. Or climb out with it up...:hammerhead: then climb back in and drop :hammerhead: :hammerhead: (3x stupid) I have 6 attachments at current job, so gonna need two trips, and they are not that easy to unload at home w/o a skid... The 4:1 on my crawler/loader seems to work if I put it's dentures on.
05-27-2006, 10:09 AM
I have the same issue with putting attachments in and out of the trailer without the machine at the house. I have a bobcat 435 miniX that is home many times when the T300 isnt, so I will lift the attachements off with it and place them on the ground.
05-27-2006, 10:39 AM
That is a nice set-up. I really need to get a flatbed for my truck. Last January I got a new Ford F-350 4x4 diesel dually crewcab and man I love it. It it a towing machine! Rob has a lot of cool stuff at SSS, he really gets my wish list dancing! Still being new at this I really have to prioritize what I buy, but man I want everything! Now!
06-01-2006, 08:12 PM
how bout this one?...the 12K trailer i haul with
06-01-2006, 08:26 PM
sweet trailer....no more ramps to deal with.
how do you find loading/offloading on wet days or in winter when its icy?
06-01-2006, 08:34 PM
It's a little steep, but it can be done. Now that I look at it, it's not too much steeper than a tiltbed tag trailer. Question is, once you get the machine up on the deck, does it automatically tilt down? The biggest drawback to those trailers is when you're loading/unloading all the weight is one axle, not really the best design but whatever works.
06-01-2006, 08:59 PM
That trailer Dirt Digger 2 has sure looks like its hard on the truck's hitch and hard on the rear trailer axle. The best tilt trailer is one that has a full frame and the deck tilts.
06-01-2006, 09:03 PM
GR, I have to ask, what's your favorite brand of trailers? I'm looking for a Trailmax TD40 tilt for the dump truck next year. I guess they're only about $20K new, not too bad considering you can't find a used one that's beat to hell for less than $10K.
06-01-2006, 09:15 PM
We have a tilt trailer that tilts on the frame, so you don't lift the truck or either axle.
Works a bit better.
06-01-2006, 09:20 PM
I just took care of my trailering issues today. I ordered a new flatbed trailer.
12 ton 28 foot deckover. I was going to get a gooseneck, but decided it was best to get a tag along only fo the fact that by the end of next week I should have a 02' C7500 grapple truck as well. Cant pull a gooseneck with that. It gives me enough room to put both machines on the trailer if nessisary and put the attachments into the truck. Or pull the trailer with one machine on it with the F350.
06-01-2006, 09:26 PM
Hi Scag most contractors here have Trailking trailers but the one the guys use here isn't listed on the website. The Trailkings are pretty much the same as the Trailmax you are looking at.
The Trailmax TD-40 is prolly the one you would want to buy the TD-42 would be better because it uses 22.5" wheels not those rotten 17.5 wheels you will have a biatch of a time finding tires.
The TRD-50-T with the 22.5 wheels would be good if you wanted to carry both machines say the excavator and the skid or excavator and attachments.
Prolly the best bet would be search for a good used trailer if you can find one something that is 5 years old or so. You won't be using the trailer enough to warrant to spend the money on a brandnew one. Take the money you save on a used trailer and put it towards a good dump truck which you will prolly used daily to haul material to the site.
06-01-2006, 09:39 PM
i'll try and answer a few questions here...on wet days it sucks, but then again so do ramps. a few days ago i had to haul a skid loader and it wouldnt back up the incline so i had to use the old ramped trailer. The trailer does not have auto down, the skid loaders have wheel locks when the safety bar is raised so its no such a big deal. We do need to back the Case 1840 up it, but our Takeuchi climbs it fine. As for stress on the hitch it doesnt seem like it adds much. Its a 12K trailer no matter whether its tilted or not, just because it is in the raised position does not mean it adds more tonuge weight. i get more concerned when the 8000lb Takeuchi's weight is on those 2 back tires instead of all 4, they bulge a little.
06-01-2006, 09:50 PM
GR, those 22.5" on the TD42 will be technically more stable than the 17.5 right? With me being an inexperienced driver, I want a very stable trailer. I'd like to buy a used trailer, but like I said, for $10K more I can get something brand new that hasn't been abused, but I will be looking for something slightly used.
06-01-2006, 11:27 PM
The stabilty isn't the big worry its the 17.5 wheels are odd ball the 22.5 wheels are still used. What is on those trailers is low profile truck tires you can get them anywhere the wheels can be found anywhere. The 17.5 wheels you would have to special order them and make sure you have a couple spare tires.
The reason for the 17.5 wheels is to keep the deck height down but for what you guys are hauling your not going to be concerned about that.
The other problem with the 17.5 is the brakes are smaller you have 12 1/4 drums and 7 1/2 shoe where as the 22.5 wheels allow for a 16 1/2 diam drum with 7" wide shoes a big difference.
The trailers with the small drums you will experience overheating brakes on long grades. The truck you pull the trailer with would most definatly need a JAKE brake because the truck will have to do most of the braking.
06-02-2006, 12:01 AM
The truck will definately have a jake, no doubt. We have pretty mountainous terrain much like you do in BC, we need good brakes. In fact, both of our Fords are getting exhaust brakes in the next month, my dad has gone through another set of brakes on his F350 in about 4 months and all of the trailers have electric brakes on all 4 wheels as it is.
06-02-2006, 10:19 PM
We have two 1 ton dodge p/u's a 05' w/o a exhaust brake and a 06' with one.
Skag,First you can't put a exhaust brake on the fords because the heads on a ford are not built for the back pressure.Second if it is a auto the tranie. won't lock up decelerating so a exhaust brake does no good,will acutely burn up the tranie!!!I don't have one on my 05' because of point #2.The 06' will lock up the tranie. so the brake works really good.Fully load on a 10% grade it will hold at speed limit with out service brakes.
06-03-2006, 01:33 AM
I believe it's the variable vane turbo on the 6.0 Fords that do not like exhaust brakes. The tow haul feature works well on the auto Torqshift tranny for slowing you down. It's engine braking, I think it locks up the tranny to work against engine compression. I think Ford programmed the PCM so that the braking doesn't begin until below 45 MPH. All depends on your flash, older trucks will allow braking above 45 MPH.
I tow a 10,000# travel trailer and works good holding the speed limit down hills. Don't have to worry about hills around town when towing my skidsteer, but tow mode does help slow down for stop lights.
06-03-2006, 01:51 AM
this is how i do until i get my cdl to drive my gmc 6500.
06-03-2006, 02:29 AM
Holy :eek: you haul a 161 Kubota behind a 3/4 ton P/U you are one brave SOB.
With my 95 F-450 fully loaded to 15,000lbs I'am worried about stopping I have had problems stopping the brakes on my truck are in good shape.
this is how i do until i get my cdl to drive my gmc 6500.
from the looks of things (tongue wieght and trailer construction) I would be surprised if you are not already within CDL requirements (Trailer GVW exceeding 10,000# - GCVWR=26,000#)
be careful !!, it is pretty cheap to have it delivered (~$60/hr) as compared to a $1000 CDL ticket, or breaking your $20,000 pickup, or worse yet... an accident.
just my $.02
06-03-2006, 02:17 PM
oh i know, its definatly in CDL there. its a 9 ton trailer and the truck is 9200 GVWR.
a 8 ton trailer would be under CDL.
The trailer is my neighbors, its farm plates. electric brakes. It stops perfectly fine.. and the duramax allison just laughs at the payload.
I know its not too safe cause its only single wheels. amongst other things. I pay my neighbor with the same truck with farm plates to move it for me. this is just around the corner from my house though and i didnt feel like bothering him.
06-03-2006, 02:35 PM
You figure the 161 is close to 12,000lbs that trailer must weigh another 6000lbs so now your up to 18,000lbs which is far exceeding the tow rating on the truck. The gvw of the truck is only 8600lbs from the way the front wheels are barely touching you have atleast 2500lbs of tounge weight.
For us if the trailer exceeds 10,000lbs you need a CDL regardless if the DOT seen us try to pull a 12,000lb mini behind a 3/4 ton P/U thats close to seeing some jail time if a accident occured.
If we were stopped with that first of all the machine would have to be left on the side of the road or the DOT calls a tow truck to come and tow the machine and trailer to a compound at your expense. Then you have over weight fines to pay. You have to pay all your fines before you get your machine back then you have to pay the storage on the machine to the person that owns the compound.
For us 17,600lbs is max total gross we can get away with without becoming a commercial truck. Once you become a commercial truck then you have to deal with the scales and the DOT can go after you on violations.
Its not worth the risk of trying to haul things with a undersized truck if you ever get caught your wallet will be empty.
06-03-2006, 05:49 PM
the trailer weights 3000 pounds. the gvwr of the truck is 9200 #s, just to give you some facts. towing capacity is only listed at 12,000 #s, so its 3000 over.
this is the only time i moved the machine with my truck. it was literally under a mile around the block where im doing some work. and trust me theres no DOT around where i live. Theyre all out in Avon, CT with a hard-on.
i usually have the machine moved by a friend who has Farm plates, so basically he can do whatever he wants, no CDL applies. but its basically the same truck just quad cab. hes an old farmer wouldnt you expect it?
and yea i know all that stuff. sorry for posting the picture.
06-03-2006, 06:51 PM
up here you can use a similar trailer and a single axle dump with a basic license and an air brakes endorsement,you should buy an old 6 yard and keep it simple man.
06-03-2006, 07:28 PM
i have one. just dont have my cdl to drive it yet. 1988 GMC 6500, 8.0 Turbodiesel, 30,100 # GVWR
ill be taking my CDL A test sometime this summer, hopefully sooner than later, just have to find the time, i should make the time.
06-03-2006, 09:45 PM
i was looking at a similar truck $2000 lol,all i need is my air brakes and i'm off.
now if i haul your trailer with a tandem i need my transport license so no tandems fer me :(
sweet gm dump though,i love the 80's 3 ton chevy/gmc's,those things can be run into the ground and still take a licking.cheap parts,take a bashing and are cheap to buy.
06-04-2006, 01:07 AM
You would have less chances of getting caught without out the proper license over pulling the 161 behind the P/U truck. I bet you could pull the 161 behind the 5 ton truck and you wouldn't ever get stopped by the DOT. It would give you some extra practice and when you go for your road test you will pass it with ease.
06-04-2006, 11:48 AM
the trailer weights 3000 pounds.
Are you sure????
06-04-2006, 05:21 PM
Cutright, I hope you don't get caught and get in alot of trouble, but I even more so hope and pray that you don't hurt yourself or someone else. It is hard for me to believe that someone would try something so dangerous and so illegal, and to think in the state in which I live. DOT is not only in Avon although it is an area of focus since that triax killed and injured all those folks last summer doing something like you do. Please find safer way. Best of luck.
06-05-2006, 02:30 AM
That's some tricky stuff man, don't be pulling that machine with that 3/4 on long runs. I thought I overloaded my 2500 with 11,000 behind me....
06-05-2006, 03:05 PM
All it takes is one wrong move pulling that kind of weight and you will have one heck of a mess on your hands. If that trailer was a gooseneck it would be a little better but not legal. You get that much tounge weight you have no control you pretty much have to steer with the rear brakes.
When your dealing with 10-12% grades you have to be carefull not to overload your truck. I have seen P/U trucks pulling trailers here that have had their brakes so hot you could cook eggs on the brake drums.
06-05-2006, 06:17 PM
its not just dangerous...but if you get pulled over by the DOT they will make you wait there until someone with a CDL can come and drive the truck the rest of the way...hopefully you know someone with a CDL...just in case.
06-08-2006, 07:17 PM
DOT would not let someone with a CDL drive an overloaded truck. it would be unloaded at safely towed at your expense.
06-11-2006, 09:29 AM
I would think, based on DMV experience in CT, that they would make you unload the excavator, have a wrecker come to tow the empty trailer, with a transport plate. That 9 ton is +/1 21,000 gvw, no matter what the registration says. They will take the 'farm' plate from you when they figure out that you are not 'farming', or if they don't agree with the registration.
Then, they will insist that you pick up the excavator with a properly registered and appropriate trailer or truck. They may even wait to inspect the vehicle and driver upon its arrival.
You'll probably be able to take the pickup without a hassle.
I had this basic scenario happen to a new mowing setup (F-350 and trailer). We were running 3 similar setups, and the plates on 2 trailers were switched, and 1 wire was disconnected from the trailer brake setup. The load was legal, but the trailer wasn't. I don't think there were 3500# on the load, but it had to be separated for a tow back to the shop. Fortunately no fines to pay, but we lost productivity. Now we run dovetails.
Don't wait. Go get your CDL. We don't need to read about you in the paper.
07-05-2006, 10:35 PM
Took a while but finally found time to get a couple of pictures.
07-06-2006, 10:10 AM
Now that is a rig. Looks great!
dccarling - what is your Gross combo wieght, and length of trailer? (engine and tranny?)
07-06-2006, 09:22 PM
Thanks, the trailer is 28', 24 flat w/ 4' beaver tail, gvwr is 25,900, empty weight is 6k so it can carry just under 20k. The asv weighs 10k with the bucket so I'm pulling ~16k without the backhoe or power rake. A little on the heavy side for the truck but it pulls just fine. The truck is a 6.0 L w/ 5 speed auto and has banks exhaust, six gun with pda electronics. The trailer handles and rides very well on the road and the brakes on all 3 axles stops great, however you do need a fair amount of real estate for maneuvering as well as a CDL A license.
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