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tthomass
06-03-2006, 11:34 AM
Have a privacy fence to install for a customer.......not a problem only I've never had to shrage to put on in (family). I'm talking about the offset 8' pre assembled $50 each stuff from Lowe's. Its a straight shot of about 92' and then I've got about 100' of 4' picket fence.

Advice on charging? How do you guys go about it? Before someone says it I don't have a set hourly rate, I bid the job from looking over my material, cost, and effort involved in the job and # guys needed. Just trying ot get some sort of a base.

Thanks!

tthomass
06-03-2006, 11:39 AM
i just called Long Fence and they said $2900 for the 92' stretch, 6' high

Birdhunter1
06-03-2006, 03:05 PM
Best piece of advice I can give is to stay away from taht reassembled 8' stuff from Lowes. A buddy of mine put that up last year at his house, about 200' perimter in his yard, and I kept telling him that stuff won't be as good as what you can build for the same price.
Less that a year later now and he is wishing he would have taken my advice and stick built the entire thing. Reasons:
1). not all of those panels are exactlt 8' long, when you put your posts in teh groudn you work your butt off to be on exact 8' centers thinking it will be quick and easy once you start putting up panels. Problem is some of those are 8' 1", 8' 2", 7'11" and it will throw you off on every post in the line.
2). no matter how flat the ground looks there will be a variation in height of each end of the bottom of that panel. Meaning at one end you may be sitting right on the ground, in the middle you'll need to shave about a 3/4' piece of dirt out and then you're still 1" off the ground at the other end of yor panel.
3). look that panel over real well, the rails they use to staple the fence planks to are just pieces of lumber, no real dimension to them. Then count how many fence planks there are in that panel. Go price that many fence planks and three 2x4's and a box of deck screws and you'll come up about $2 difference in the price of a pre-fabbed panel and the materials to build it yourself. The one you will build will be stronger and you won't spend most of the next year retacking boards onto the pre-fabbed panel, that you saved time on since it was pre-fabbed, because they used a staple that pulled out when that panel started warping because of teh sun and rain and hot and cold on it.
4). if you stick build it just floow the contour of the ground, if you're unhappy with any high spots or low spots stirke a chalk line straight from one end to teh other and tangent to your lowest point then use a circular saw to flush evrything off straight.

Birdhunter1
06-03-2006, 03:07 PM
Also you will need at least two guys to handle those panels and put them in place and line them up. If you stick built it you can do most of teh work alone and solo.

Jason Rose
06-03-2006, 03:20 PM
I agree about the pre-assembled pannels being junk... They look really pretty at the store but as soon as they are up the boards warp every which way! You just can't build a decent looking fence out of treated pine lumber... Sure you can use it for the 4x4's and 2x4 stringers, but be SURE to get a good quality wood. So many treated boards I see end up looking like granny rockers in about a year. Ceder would be the way to go for the pickets, and even the posts and stringers if you can find them locally for a reasoable price... Several of the fence companies around here stopped using wood posts all together and use round galvinized poles, they have these really cool brackets that hook the stringers to the poles too. About the same cost as a good wood post and they are guranteed to NOT rot out and break off.

tthomass
06-03-2006, 10:44 PM
TOTALLY agree.......just looked at them. Contractor neighbor told me they had them but that is nothing I want my name on.

I am installing the fence at 92' with 4"x4"x10' (2' underground in concrete) post w/ 2"x4"x10' rails (using galv hangers)....then using 1"x6"x8' planks to actually assemble the fence w/ galv screws and 1"x4"x10' caps.......all treated.

Forget the assembled stuff, back to the carpentry.

Birdhunter1
06-03-2006, 11:33 PM
I'd make sure and put more than 2' in the ground if youu're wanting 8' above grade. That is only 1' in the dirt for every 4' above dirt which is very unstable, not kidding but a moterate to strong wind will blow it over. If you HAVE to have 8' above the ground you'd better get 12' posts with 4' in the dirt but............. You don't need your posts 8' above the ground for an 8' fence. You can have the top of the posts at 6' with your top stringer at 6' (flush with top of post) and still be ok with your fence plank being 8' tall and using a 10' post. You'd have a 1.5' above the dirt/1' in the ground which is a bit much but not sever overkill. With 4' in the dirt and 6' above the dirt you'd have a very stable post, stable post = stable fence.
If you're worried about that top 2' of fence above the top rail just remember it will be easier to replace a broken board above the ground that to put posts back in the ground that have been uprooted and are still attached to a fence that is 90' long! I wouldn't worry about that top 2' of fence, if I was I might consider making peaks and valleys out of the fence (you know kind of like the way waves on the sea use to be drawn on older cartoons or Sesame Street).

Galvanized screws are a big no-no on this new treated lumber. With the new chemicals they are using to treat lumber you have to use stainless steel screws or Guarddog screws so they don't get eaten up very quickly.


I don't understand what the 1x4x10 caps are for, enlighten me?

Birdhunter1
06-03-2006, 11:38 PM
Instead of having 9- 10' spans between your posts on this fence I'd make 8 10' spans and one 12' span, save yourself on the price of another post, concrete and time and it won'r hurt a thing.
Are you going to be putting a gate in this fence anywhere?

Best thing to do on the concrete is get about 10 bags more than what you calculate you will need and then return the ones you don't use.

Brianslawn
06-04-2006, 12:23 AM
$16 a linear foot, plus $100 per walk gate, $200 for double gate.

tthomass
06-04-2006, 12:32 AM
typo.....yes 6' high, originally they wanted 8' but changed their mind....thanks for looking out!

thanks for the heads up on the galv screws, its been about 2 years since I last built one

the 1x4 cap will lay flat across the top.........its really just customer preference, some like that + one on teh both sides making a "C" cap

i won't need the single 12' span though i did take that into consideration. i have 10' between posts + the post themselves........i'll actually need to make one section under 10' in the back corner of the property

tthomass
06-04-2006, 12:35 AM
the picket fence will have the Mt. Vernon Dip.......those I will purchase assembled, and not from Lowe's.......prob Long Fence or the like

pondfishr
06-04-2006, 12:37 AM
I agree that the pre fab stuff is junk. I just sent off a drawing to a local fence wholesale supply company here in Nashville to get a price on the materials. I am going to buy the pieces and build the one I have pending a piece at a time. I have a paslode cordless framing nailer that I will use to attach the slats to the cross boards. It should work well and will save me a world of time over screws. I built a 800' 4 board ranch style fence last year using the same nailer and it really did the job well.:)

drsogr
06-04-2006, 07:18 AM
$16 a linear foot, plus $100 per walk gate, $200 for double gate.

Does the $16 a ft cover everything? Like screws, trash haul off, permits, all of the little things? I am trying to streamline my fence pricing....but am unsure what people include in their linear pricing?

drsogr
06-04-2006, 07:25 AM
For example one I just built, It worked out to $12.50 a ft for just the fencing, now if you add in the posts, screws, trash haul off, post hole rental, and delivery charge I ended up @ $18.80 a ft. If you take out the posts I am a lot closer to your numbers @ $14.70 a ft. By the way, when I bid the job I was in line with the other 2 bids he got, he just went with me, because I screwed in the boards instead of nails.

Fordsuvparts
06-07-2006, 08:46 AM
My company used to install fencing for Lowes in KY for a couple of stores and we got paid about $9.00 per Foot plus gates and end post, they also provided every thing but the nails. We only do stick built fences in wood, but we do a lot of vinyl fencing in the panels. We mark up our material at least 20% before we add labor, we also will go out to the site and dig a few small holes to see hard the ground is. If it is going to be tough digging even with a skidloader mounted auger then we charge for a (hard Dig) and that get expensive very quickly, if i have to have 2 guys out there with spud bar trying to dig the rest of the hole by hand the customer pays a big premium. We even look at the slope of the job before we bid it, and a lot of times will shoot grade so they know what we are dealing with. Just my 2 cents.

Brianslawn
06-08-2006, 02:10 AM
Does the $16 a ft cover everything? Like screws, trash haul off, permits, all of the little things? I am trying to streamline my fence pricing....but am unsure what people include in their linear pricing?



everything but permits. screws, trash, delivery, etc. $15/lf for nails. shadow box, etc. are extra. might do $14 if its big enough.



look out! train! sorry, j/k. glad your ok, bud, that was terrible what you went through.