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View Full Version : Echo 260 trimmer only starts with carb cleaner?


Shady Brook
06-11-2006, 08:05 PM
I have a 260 Echo trimmer that will not start. I have had 8 or so of these trimmers in the past so I am familiar with them. I choke it and it never makes the sound as if it is ready to start, and will not start. If I give her a squirt of carb cleaner she will fire right up and then die. If I continue to mist carb cleaner in she will eventually continue to run and operate fine. I can shut it off and restart as normal, but if she sits she will again need carb cleaner. I have replaced the plug, the fuel filter, the air filter, and the small external vent. I even replaced the coil and plug wire assembly using one from a recently deceased 260 trimmer. Any thoughts for me?

Thanks

ed2hess
06-11-2006, 08:27 PM
Depending on the use it could be clogged exhaust ports, I assume the spark arrestor is out. If this unit is less than 2 years old it has one screw for adjusting the carb for more/less gas. There is a knockout covering the screw. Due to temp change maybe you need a little more gas turn the screw CCW. I may be telling you stuff you know if you are an Echo guy..sorry! As these units get older the crankshaft seals go out...one behind the rope starter and one behind the clutch, they aren't hard to replace. You can easilty tell if it is leaking behind the starter/clutch by observation. If it more than 2 years old and does not have a carb adjustment then put a carb kit in becasue the alum acturator for the gas valve wears and you lose motion.

Shady Brook
06-11-2006, 09:20 PM
Thanks ed2hess that was a very informative post.

The unit is between three and four years old. It is leaking from everywhere it could leak. It is hard to tell where all it is leaking from as gas/oil mix flows so freely if it is not sitting just right on the trailer. I wonder if it is worth sinking a lot of money into. Any idea what it would cost to replace the seals? I guess if I do the carb kit and seals it would be worth it. I am growing weary of my Echo stuff. I just lost a trimmer a couple weeks ago, locked up. This one is on it's way out. My edger is loosing guts it seems. I have two pair of hedge trimmers that both run terrible even after some carb work, and now one has seized up in the gear box. I am not overly thrilled by Stihl hand tools, but I do not think I ever had one lock up on me, or get so sloppy that it was not worth fixing. My Shidaiwa stuff seems to never fail. Anyway, enough with my Echo bashing.

Thanks again

AAELI
06-12-2006, 06:25 AM
Thanks ed2hess that was a very informative post.

The unit is between three and four years old. It is leaking from everywhere it could leak. It is hard to tell where all it is leaking from as gas/oil mix flows so freely if it is not sitting just right on the trailer. I wonder if it is worth sinking a lot of money into. Any idea what it would cost to replace the seals? I guess if I do the carb kit and seals it would be worth it. I am growing weary of my Echo stuff. I just lost a trimmer a couple weeks ago, locked up. This one is on it's way out. My edger is loosing guts it seems. I have two pair of hedge trimmers that both run terrible even after some carb work, and now one has seized up in the gear box. I am not overly thrilled by Stihl hand tools, but I do not think I ever had one lock up on me, or get so sloppy that it was not worth fixing. My Shidaiwa stuff seems to never fail. Anyway, enough with my Echo bashing.

Thanks again

Replacing leaking fuel lines/filter/grommets should be done on a regular basis for all the handhelds no matter the brand. Oil seals on the crankshafts can be checked with a crankcase pressure tester to determine if they are in need of replacement. At the same time check cyl. gasket for leaks. When you pull the muffler off to block off the exhaust port for the pressure test check for carbon buildup and remove if present. Locking up a hedgetrimmer gearbox may be due to water in the box which can rust the conrod bearings. It seems that most of the manufacturers source their boxes from one of three or four makers.

Shindaiwa is a good brand but is also subject to the same problems that the Echo/Stihl/Maruyama/Robin/Tanaka/Redmax are. That being said I also have found both my Shindaiwa B450 and Maruyama MC260 to be top quality machines. And Yes, they all are subject to regular service in my shop. I have sold and repaired close to 10000 of these over the past 18 years. :weightlifter:

For what it is worth in credibility I was the first Sudden Service Elite SHOGUN dealer in the world.
Semper Fi , This Marine got there first!

Shady Brook
06-12-2006, 07:55 AM
Thank you AAELI for your post, and your many years of service defending our country!:usflag:

Sounds like you have oodles of experience with these machines. I must admit it is easier for me to get into a maintenance routine with my mowers then with my stick tools. I just expect them to run period. They may have the most taxing lifecycle of any of our tools but get the least attention. I do often wonder how they survive as long as they do. I have some spare carbs, I will likely replace that, the fuel lines, check the exhaust port although I am pretty sure the screen was removed long ago. I will then check into the seals and other goodies.

Thanks again!

AAELI
06-12-2006, 06:16 PM
Thank you AAELI for your post, and your many years of service defending our country!:usflag:

Sounds like you have oodles of experience with these machines. I must admit it is easier for me to get into a maintenance routine with my mowers then with my stick tools. I just expect them to run period. They may have the most taxing lifecycle of any of our tools but get the least attention. I do often wonder how they survive as long as they do. I have some spare carbs, I will likely replace that, the fuel lines, check the exhaust port although I am pretty sure the screen was removed long ago. I will then check into the seals and other goodies.

Thanks again!

You are very welcome. The years seemed like a lifetime at the time of service yet now seem so looooong ago. 1972-1976 is short, but thank you for your comment.
Oodles of experience with handheld engines and farm tractors & batwing field mowers. I also handle Walker's but have less problems out here with them than the Maytag repairman. There are only 42 of them on Island sold since 1994. Most still run but are getting long in the tooth with 365 mowing days a year out here.

I am willing to help out all I can long distance to anyone with problems I have experience handling. I haven't seen everything although my wife of 27 great years claims "if you haven't seen it then you read about it" so I should be equipped to take care of most problems. Don't be afraid to stumble through the maintenance. Remove items and place them in the order of removal so as to have a good system for reassembly.

The carboned exhaust port I referred to is the one on the cylinder, you will see it when you remove the muffler. The screens that we all seem to remove are usually at the tailpipe of the muffler.

Been a lot of places, done a lot there.