View Full Version : Size of chain on DC striping kits
As we chat I am designing a striping kit for my Turf Tiger on CAD. I am going to try the DC style with chains first. Was wondering what size the chain is. What is the width and length of the chain and the diameter of the wire? In the pictures it looks like there is about 3 to 4 links unsuspended on the ground. I'm going to attach the chains to angle iron and use ubolts to attach the angle iron to the 1 inch diameter bar bridging the frame by the wheel motors. Any comments or design thoughts welcome for discussion.
Thanks,
Ben
One idea here - stainless hardware!
Not for the "look", but so you won't have to curse seized nuts & bolts taking the unit off when required. If you plan to bolt the chains to the angle (as opposed to weld) use stainless there too.
Only other thing to suggest is put a nice radius on the corners of the angle iron so there isn't a sharp spot to catch a pant leg (or your leg!)
Sorry I can't offer any help on the chain size/length though - welder by trade, not an LCO! (I still like to check out all the forums though, since there's always good info to be found that applies to many areas)
Make sure that the chains are positioned in a way/short enough that they can't get under the tires.
Good point - why didn't I think of that? (Oh, yeah - welder not LCO!:D )
Just thinking out loud here - I'm guessing the chains would need to be the full width of the cut? If they will be too close to the tires with the angle bolted directly to the round bar, perhaps the angle could be fitted with 2 mounting arms that extend from the round bar far enough to keep the chains clear of the tires.
George777
05-30-2001, 09:56 PM
Maybe this might help you out. It sounds like your doing it like this...
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1367720&a=12035728&p=48605892
The angle iron can be lowered or raised. Granted this is a walk behind, but let me tell ya it works.
goerge777 thats a cool ideal you had there. did it improve the stripe a
lot ?
Eric ELM
05-30-2001, 10:08 PM
I have never measured each link, but I would say mine are about 5/16" links. You can use any size, but the heavier the better. If I was to build one, I'd use 3/8" links and adjust the bracket to fit them in. Also use the hardest chain you can get if you drive on streets or driveways a lot like me. The chain only needs to be between the tires on Choppers since the tires are right up the to overlap anyway. The first 2 chains on each side are shorter to keep them from getting under the wheel. I do have a closer up view of this set up if your interested. Heck I'll post it here. BTW, I took this picture for another member and the Chopper was dirty, forgive me. :)
http://elmlawnsite.com/images/closeupkit.jpg
leeslawncare
05-30-2001, 10:10 PM
As eric told me 5/16 chain
George777
05-30-2001, 10:16 PM
rdh, I think it made a big improvement. Friday I'm gonna put some pic's on eric's linl stripes 2001. Also I'm located in the South and it works on Bermuda.
75, from what I have been reading on other posts, and it makes sense, is that the tires will do the trick to lay the grass down and the chains don't need to drag behind them. The chains pick up where the tires don't roll the grass which is between them. I like the stainless idea. Instead of welding the chains to the angle iron, I though I would machine slots in it similar to the Dixie kit, insert the chain through and run a rod through to secure the chains. Other ideas I've thought of are the roller, similar to the York Sheet Metal set up, but not attached to the cutting deck as the Scag has a 90 degree gear box that I think would be in the way. I decided against this because the mounting location would be under the wheel motors and would have to have some sort of breakaway mechanism that would function both going forward and reverse to avoid major damage to the machine should a solid object be encountered. My other idea, which I may investigate further, is the use of something beside chain to lay the grass. I'm thinking possibly flexible plastic or rubber such as 3/16 thick urethane or soft rubber or possibly bristles like a broom.
Runner
05-30-2001, 10:18 PM
Now THAT'S slick!:blob3:
steveair
05-30-2001, 10:26 PM
Hello,
I've been figuring out how to put chains underneath our JD 970 tractor myself, and enjoy all of your ideas.
I am taking a non-engineering approach to the matter. We have an old 20' woods batwing mower, and along the sides of the entire deck it has chains already attached to removable bars of varying lengths that dangle about 6 inches. As I recall, they are around the 5/16 range.
I'm just gonna unbolt one of those suckers, cut it to the size I need, and then figure out the best way to hang it from beneath the tractor.
The tractor already has oversized turftires, so I am looking to fill the gap in between. I think somewhere underneath the machine should be a good location, but have also thought about off of the 3 pt hitch between the tractor and the deck. Just waiting for a rainy day to have the time to mess around with it. My only concern is whether they will be heavy enough to make an effect. I may have to double a few of them up.
Maybe a good source of 'striping' kits would be a old farm equipment junkyard. You never know what you may find.
steveair
JLC - picture's worth 1000 words! Having seen the pics, I have a better idea of what everyone's talking about. And yes, I think you're better to go with the slots/bar as per the DC kit. Much easier to replace chain(s) as required.
I gather from your post you've got access to machine shop equipment? That's a big plus - trying to torch cut those slots would result in a nice CURVED piece of angle!
As an alternative to chain, I wonder about a piece of old conveyor belting or mudflap? I had thought about the broom-like "mudflaps" you sometimes see on RV's, but I think they might be too flexible.
75, that's what I was getting at with my last post. It would need to be rigid enough to stripe while flexible enough not to damage the grass. I've got the kit designed with 3/8 chain per Eric's suggestion. My day job is a tool designer at a injection molding shop. We have a complete machine shop that it is at my disposal after hours. After this project I'm going to design and make an operator controlled discharge, a reciever mount for my Lesco spreader and my own version of a trimmer trap for my trailer. Also thinking about replacing my one piece four foot ramp gate with a two piece 5 ft for better loading and unloading incorporating a torsion spring to aid in lifting and lowering.
I'm going to try and attach my design.
Two ideas for you guys. First we made chainkits for all our mowers last year except we turned the angle iron over and used the rod to hold the chain. It was alot easier than trying to machine holes in the iron. We just took the piece of angle and welded end pieces on it with holes then we welded a couple of braces in the middle with holes in them. Then we just fed the rod in the holes and put the chain on as we went. Also Toro makes a striping kit that uses material that is similiar to conveyor belt. I have seen one of the kits and I think that it would work on any mower. It comes with brackets that you just mount on the back of the deck. Hope this helps.
Do the chain links ever get caught in the expanded metal gates on the trailer?
John DiMartino
05-31-2001, 08:28 PM
I made a stripe kit for my Dixie,the biggest expense was the 52 ft of chain@1.45 a ft.I have a friend in the steel business,he punched 34 slots in my angle iron for me,it looks at least as good as DC's,but I have a slick piece of cable ging thru the links instead of the steel bar,this way I can slide it out without even removing at tire or the bar if i need to replace links.I used 5/16" chain,I bet the kit adds a good 40 lbs to the weight of the DC,all that chain is heavy.That is why i didnt use 3/8" chain,if 40 lbs wont lay the grass over,50 wont help either.The other thing i noticed during this drought in the spring is that the stripe kit kicks up a ton of dust if its dry,even when the blades are off,and your transporting across a dirt road,or into the shop,it kicks up a ton of dust now.
leeslawncare
05-31-2001, 08:34 PM
I know what you mean john about the dust !.I put one on my walk behind an it kicks up tons of clipings on my feet!! but hey...it works so well i'll live with it !
kroll
05-31-2001, 08:51 PM
JLC
I made one for my turf tiger & my tiger cub looks almost like the one George777 posted pic of mounted to the 2 bolts on the very back and double
nutted them withe the existing bolts I used old tire chains that had the small hook links on them and the caught the trailer 1 time and then I mashed the hooks shut don't make them two wide ( just past inside edge of tire)
sometimes on a ditch or slope they will catch and gouge the dirt
no biggy and it has to be a steep edge shouldn't be there any way with
a rider Z turn but thats about we have here nothing is flat
any way I luv them and can deal with the little things that if I would pay attention would'nt happen any way
K.R.
lawnkid
02-22-2002, 03:02 PM
I wanted to know how you attach the chain links to the back of the mower like where the sulky bar is. I have a Scag 52" Hydro and was wondering how many chain seperate links do i need. How is the litte black bar like on leeslawncare pic able to hold the chains on? Please describe it to me on how to make this. This looks like the best stripe kit I've seen so far.
leeslawncare
02-23-2002, 04:29 PM
weld them on then attach fram to mower with bolts.
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