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View Full Version : IS there a cheap generic oil filter for Super Recycler?


Freddy_Kruger
07-05-2006, 11:53 AM
My dealer wants $16 for a oil filter for my model # 20057 super recycler. I would rather not be extorted. Can I possibly buy a similar product elsewhere like a walmart or something?

Jim@MilkyWay
07-05-2006, 12:00 PM
....Can I possibly buy a similar product elsewhere like a walmart or something?
Almost always. Post the filter brand and number so it can be x-referenced.

Freddy_Kruger
07-05-2006, 12:08 PM
its a briggs and stratton then there is two numbers, the one on the label is 78-19856-0112 and the number on the end of the filter is 111 50481.

Jim@MilkyWay
07-05-2006, 12:49 PM
.... the number on the end of the filter is 111 50481.
Is there a brand/manufacturer on the oil filter?

lawnmaniac883
07-05-2006, 05:59 PM
I'll bet it is a oregon.

dutch1
07-05-2006, 09:07 PM
Judging from Toro's website, I'd say the Briggs # is 692513. With the part number you may be able to an auto parts dealer and see if he can cross over that number. You can do as you want but I would not opt for the cheapest oil fliter.

Dutch

Jim@MilkyWay
07-05-2006, 09:37 PM
....You can do as you want but I would not opt for the cheapest oil fliter.

Dutch
1) dutch1 is right-on. The Fram Tuff Guard line is still inexpensive, at 1/3 to 1/2 of what you inferred is a rip, but is not the cheapest you will find.
2) I went to Uncle Wally's (WalMart in normal speak), armed with a bolt that would screw into the old filter, and a vernier. The bolt gives you the thread pitch, there won't be that many to check as only a few different pitches will exist. The vernier gives you diameter and length. Select, off the shelf, a filter in about the correct size, specifically the diameter, open it up in the store, and find one that your bolt will screw into (thereby matching the thread pitch).
3) If it will 'fit', chose a filter with a little more length. Additional length gives you additional volume and filter capacity.
4) IF, repeat if, you go with a little longer filter, check your oil level on the dip stick and note that you will need to increase your oil volume a little. I use Duralube oil treatment to make up difference, up to 12% give or take.

Jim@MilkyWay
07-05-2006, 09:46 PM
Whoops
Forgot sumpin'
Don't invite trouble. Wait till the engine warranty period is up before adding any oil additives.

Freddy_Kruger
07-06-2006, 09:07 PM
I wont add additives but I am changing the oil more frequently than the manual wants ya to, its so easy. but the filter is 16 freakin dollars I think they should be 4-5 bucks. I havent changed the filter yet because I don't want to pay that much.

I figure this machine gets 15 hours a week on it and I change the oil every two weeks. I think the manual said every 100 hours or once a year but I don't think they meant that for commercial use.

I'm going to take that filter off and take it to canadian tire, thanks for the tip about thread size and all.

I also think I'm paying to much for oil for this machine even though I buy it at home depot why is lawn mower oil 3x more than what car oil is?

Jim@MilkyWay
07-06-2006, 09:37 PM
.... I havent changed the filter yet because I don't want to pay that much....
Are you _really_ running new oil without a new filter?



....I also think I'm paying to much for oil for this machine even though I buy it at home depot why is lawn mower oil 3x more than what car oil is?...

Now, THERE is a good question.

lawnmaniac883
07-06-2006, 11:26 PM
Unbelievable :rolleyes:

Freddy_Kruger
07-07-2006, 12:13 AM
Are you _really_ running new oil without a new filter?

Yeah the machine has about 2.5 months use, about 15 hours a week say 150 hours on the original oil filter. It is getting to the point where I will change it regaurdless of the cost but I'm looking for a smart way to go about it. (cheap is smart if its the same quality)

Freddy_Kruger
07-07-2006, 12:14 AM
Unbelievable :rolleyes:
Are you practicing your vocabulary... 4 cylable words, very good ci.

Jim@MilkyWay
07-07-2006, 04:53 PM
... 4 cylable words, very good ci.

Don't you mean "4-cycle words" :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

lawnmaniac883
07-07-2006, 05:05 PM
Are you practicing your vocabulary... 4 cylable words, very good ci.


You mean 5 syllable words?

Changing the engine oil without changing the filter is ******ed...:hammerhead:

Freddy_Kruger
07-07-2006, 05:28 PM
Changing the engine oil without changing the filter is ******ed...:hammerhead:
Well I don't think you need to change the filter as much as the oil when you change the oil as much as I do (every 30 hours or so).

AND... I found a cheap oil filter in the auto section. It's so small I guess for toyotas or something, it screwed on nice and tight and it only costs 5 bucks.

I also spyed out lawn mower oil there, also much cheaper. Canadain Tire is the best stort*newcanadaflag*

What a stupid looking simile.

PowerEquipmentWarehouse
07-07-2006, 09:30 PM
Oregon makes a suitable (and much cheaper) alternative to the Briggs & Stratton OEM filter. Oregon's part number is 83-285. It's a good idea to change the filter each time you change the oil, especially when the engine is new. Hope you enjoy the new Toro!! Mike

Jim@MilkyWay
07-08-2006, 03:09 AM
Well I don't think you need to change the filter as much as the oil when you change the oil as much as I do ....
I have seen owners manuals for all sorts of engines, large and small, with _clear and specific_ statements that it is _not_ necessary to install a new filter with each oil change. The people who make and/or sell anything with an engine, are not interested in optimizing your engine life. they are interested in selling engines!

...*newcanadaflag* What a stupid looking simile.

I second that!

oldrustycars
07-08-2006, 12:58 PM
just because the filter screws onto an engine and doesnt leak does NOT mean its the proper filter. micron ratings, type of filter media, anti drainback valves, all effect the filters performance. wait til next year when this guys complaning about how his engine is no good because it blew up. nothing wrong with aftermarket filters, just get the correct one. filters, oil, and grease are NOT expensive. new engines are.

Freddy_Kruger
07-08-2006, 06:04 PM
just because the filter screws onto an engine and doesnt leak does NOT mean its the proper filter. micron ratings, type of filter media, anti drainback valves, all effect the filters performance. wait til next year when this guys complaning about how his engine is no good because it blew up. nothing wrong with aftermarket filters, just get the correct one. filters, oil, and grease are NOT expensive. new engines are.
Yeah right, I bet this oil filter on a 6.5HP is just window dressing anyway, probably don't even need it. I got a 6 year old snow blower (used commercially) and its 10 HP with no oil filter.

dutch1
07-08-2006, 10:36 PM
Your snow blower doesn't have an oil filter and it likely doesn't have an air filter either. Do you know why?

With a laser thermometer check the temperature of the crankcase of your mower engine during a hot day and compare it to the temp of the crankcase on your snowblower when you're moving snow. Will there be a significant difference in the two? Does a hot mug of coffee stay hot longer on a hot day than it does on a cold day? Also, compare the amount of particulate matter in the air when you are mowing grass on a hot, dry, dusty day to that when you are blowing snow.

If you had spent any amount ot time in an engine (large or small) shop you wouldn't blow off advice of using a quality filter, one that meets or exceeds OEM standards. As someone stated above, engine manufacturers want to sell engines/replacement engines so sound advice on changing filters is not one of their priorities. For me, it will continue to be quality oil/air and oil filters every 40-50 hours depending on conditions. You can pay now or pay more later.

Dutch


Good judgment comes from experience and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Mark Twain