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View Full Version : Echo short block price?


Shady Brook
07-11-2006, 04:57 PM
Does anyone know what it would cost for a short block on an Echo 260 trimmer? I have two with cylinder wear and an edger that is likely in the same situation. Is it worth rebuilding these units? I know Echo makes short blocks, but don't want to pay alot for them especially if it may not last long.

Thanks

ed2hess
07-11-2006, 06:37 PM
A wild guess would be $60. I never seen a need to replace a cyclinder unless it seized and even that can be fixed. Have you tried to put in new rings and give it a go.

lawnmaniac883
07-11-2006, 06:40 PM
Go to your dealer and see what price he quotes from echo for a cylinder / piston / rings. Rebuilding one is very simple and straightforward. I would recommend you rebuild them if you have time to do so and if the parts arent too much money. My guess is that parts will be in the 100 - 120 range.

Shady Brook
07-11-2006, 06:59 PM
I just got a price from the dealer and it was $163! Wow! Who would ever do a short block on a couple year old machine? That is insane. I have two units with scoreing on the cylinder's and a third that is likely shareing the same fate. I really want one unit that works to run a bush trimmer head off of, but they are all crapping out. I also have lost a Bush trimmer this year, it is just worn out. I can get two years on an Echo piece and they are just about done at that point. My Shindaiwa's keep ticking. The only Echo products that have lasted much past two years are the 650 blowers which seem to be chugging along fine.

I don't know if crank seals would be enough to get the machines going again. I know compression is near #100 pounds. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

tallimeca
07-11-2006, 07:12 PM
my quess is that if you have cylinder wear, you problably have wear in the lower end too. If you are going to do a shortblock, it's half the cost of a new trimmer.

Cylinder and rings may solve your problem, but you are looking at still about 100 bucks, might as well go short block.

Cylinder wear is caused by improper seating of rings. Usually related to, but not limited to dirt ingestion or carbon build up. Crappy oil and not running 89 octane fuel will cause it too. Many causes are related.

I recommend using Echo oil, or ISO / Jasco equiv oil, 89 octane.

A big mistake guys make on all brand trimmers and not checking to make sure their air filter cases are tight.

Good luck!!!

Shady Brook
07-11-2006, 07:30 PM
Great post tallimeca

I usually run 89 with a fuel stabilizer that boosts economy. On occasion I have been running 87 with the stabilizer. I don't know if the stabilizer is enough, but it acts as an upper cylinder lubricant. I use, and have used only Echo oil in all of these units since their purchase. I believe the air filters are often dirty as they leak gas something fierce shortly after being put into service. The air filters likely do not get the maintenance they need because they seem to get filthy so quickly. I could replace a filter a couple times of day to have what appears to be a semi clean filter. We run extra long string on the units as well, which I imagine is overheating them and causing damage. As badly as they are tortured I should not be suprised they are pretty used up after a couple years. I was thinking about trying a 261t for the added torque but they do not take my bush trimmer head as they have a different shaft. I am also concerned because of all the talk on a thread here that people are burning their arm on the power head. I could be wrong, but it sounds like they are overheating. I wonder if because they turn at a lower rpm that they are not able to cool themselves properly.

I am ready to give Kawasaki my money for a while.

Jim@MilkyWay
07-11-2006, 07:46 PM
.... We run extra long string on the units as well, which I imagine is overheating them and causing damage.....
What do you mean by "extra long" and why do you run it. Torque is everything when it comes to speed. Too long a string slows down the string tip, which is where most of your cutting action is, because it falls off "the power curve".

Shady Brook
07-11-2006, 07:57 PM
We take off the guards and run it from 10-14". I am on the low side, my workers like it longer. I am sure there is a loss of torque when going with a longer string as it is exeeding the engines ability to turn the string fast enough to cut optimally but I believe there is a point behind what the guard will allow that you have sufficient speed to cut effectively. I can trim a whole lot faster with more string then the guard will allow. Productivity speed is my main concern.

Jim@MilkyWay
07-11-2006, 08:13 PM
I certainly would agree with your assessment as far as the mfr. deciding for you, what is best. Some mfr. will even tell you to change the oil filter _only_ after every 15th oil change, ( I exaggerate a little ). It would probably be worthwhile to modify the guard and move the cutter back an inch and a half or so, such that you _can_ in fact optimize torque and speed, without having to trust your less experienced helpers to make "the right choice".

newz7151
07-11-2006, 08:21 PM
Productivity speed is my main concern.

Then why worry about shortblocking a trimmer engine? If productivity speed is your main concern, just buy new units, remove the guards, run the string at almost twice it's designed length, burn em up and buy a new one again.

Shady Brook
07-11-2006, 08:31 PM
Jim

I agree with your assessment Jim! I would like to control the length, maybe modifying the guard is possible.

Newz

I agree, it is not worth shortblocking at that cost. I think I will do just as you suggest! If it saves a crew a half hour a day worth of payroll for two or three guys making 10-15 dollars an hour, it is worth it.

Jim@MilkyWay
07-11-2006, 09:01 PM
Jim

I agree with your assessment Jim! I would like to control the length, maybe modifying the guard is possible.

Newz.
If you feel it is necessary, cut off the entire "vertical component" of the guard, using a carbide cut-off wheel ( USE SAFETY GOGGLES !! ) .Build a little bracket for the cutter at the "most practical" mounting point, and, Err, Uhmm,,, that is ,,,Uhmm " Get Her Done "!! Did I say that right??

Jim@MilkyWay
07-11-2006, 09:03 PM
Oh, Uhm.. _NOT_ while the trimmer is under warranty.

lawnboy dan
07-11-2006, 09:43 PM
jim has a good idea-i have cut of sections of several of my trimmer gaurds so they dont get in the way as much. some gaurd is better than no gaurd at all. i value my eyesight! i also carry my pruners in my pocket to cut of execess line if it gets too long for the trimmer motor. here in fla in summer it dosnt take long to over heat the motor

lawnmaniac883
07-11-2006, 09:53 PM
Running 14 inches of string is bad practice and will burn up your engines. Too much fuel with low rpms creates excessive heat and premature wear.

ed2hess
07-11-2006, 09:56 PM
I run a lot of Echo trimmers all either 260 or 261T and I have never had a problem with the cylinder/ring part of the units. We don't have guards on the units and pull long lines of cord and most units get 5 hours run time a day and we go well over 200 days a year. We use echo oil and 87 and use sea foam every 30 days. I do regular maintenance of cleaning ports and changing clutches and these units run on. I have had to put crank seals in and rebuild the carb about every couple years. Echo ain't no Shin T270 but they are very solid. We was a test site for the first 261T which has the big gearbox and it is a monster regarding pulling cord. We have 260s on the hedge trimmers with articulating ends and that is plenty powerful.

Jim@MilkyWay
07-11-2006, 10:01 PM
_ALWAYS_ wear either goggles or full face shield when using string trimmers, _especially_ if you wind Kevlar impregnated (like, Oregon Gatorline ) string onto your head.

yungman
01-25-2008, 02:31 AM
Does anyone know what it would cost for a short block on an Echo 260 trimmer? I have two with cylinder wear and an edger that is likely in the same situation. Is it worth rebuilding these units? I know Echo makes short blocks, but don't want to pay alot for them especially if it may not last long.

Thanks

Hi
I know this is an old thread. I am just wonder, if you insist on 10 to 14 inchs length, may be a trimmer with much bigger motor like the Stihl FS130, Honda HHT35S type 35cc+ 4 cycle high torque trimmer may be your ticket. Stihl FS250 etc. They might last longer.

Landrus2
01-25-2008, 06:28 AM
In most cases itís not worth it do to the rest of the puzzle you have a lot of other parts that are going to need replacing to:drinkup:

topsites
01-26-2008, 12:22 AM
Unless we're talking more than a few hundred dollars I'd as soon buy another trimmer, at $300 a piece they're just not worth spending hours and hours of labor on.

If you know what the problem is that might be one thing, but how can you be sure it will run?
It always costs 50-80 dollars for any stupid part and then you need 2-3 things and you're up to 1/2 the price of a new one.
Now add labor, why, when I can cut grass at $60 an hour, it's all the same money, right?

I just keep the old ones for parts, then the next time one craps out I can consider a quick parts swap.

Then why worry about shortblocking a trimmer engine? If productivity speed is your main concern, just buy new units, remove the guards, run the string at almost twice it's designed length, burn em up and buy a new one again.

Pretty much my attitude :laugh: