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cddva
08-08-2006, 11:22 PM
I need to give an estimate for removal of 50 ft of concrete walkway. It's about 4" thick in a relatively open area at a residence. Using an ASV RC50 (1500# ROC), what attachment(s) would be best for the demolition of the concrete? I'm going to check if any rental outfits have a hydraulic breaker to fit the RC50. But, if that would be overkill I don't want to waste my time with a rental and I would rather be able to give a lower bid. I have available a 4n1 with tooth bar, a root rake style grapple, a straight arm backhoe attachment w/ 12" tooth bucket and fixed thumb. I'm hoping to avoid needing a sledge hammer! He does want to leave one end section in place (at a joint line). I would appreciate any advice for this demolition. Thanks.

I did see the post on asphalt removal but didn't think those recommendations would necessarily apply to concrete.

Dirty Water
08-08-2006, 11:43 PM
If there is rebar in it, your going to need a breaker, or a a lot of sweat with the sledge hammer.

If there is no iron in it, You could probably break it up in chunks with the 4-in-1, or even using the grapple. Concrete cracks pretty easily once your under it.

I'd be real carefull around the section he wants to keep, if there is already a expansion joint then your probably ok, but if its just a sawcut groove I'd get a concrete saw and cut it all the way through.

Gravel Rat
08-09-2006, 12:11 AM
Usually concrete breaks up pretty good once you get a part lifted up. If it does have rebar, wire mesh or kitty hair it will be hard to break up into chunks. You may want to have a gas powered chop saw with a abrasive blade for steel and masonary. You may want to have a 20lb sledge hammer and a guy to swing it. If you don't have anybody that can swing a 20lb hammer a Bosch Brute electric jack hammer works good.

gammon landscaping
08-09-2006, 12:18 AM
most concrete breaks easy and if it is a side walk it should either have expansion joints, or cracks. just start at the end get the bucket under it and pick up and drop. it will break at the joints or cracks. you should be able to work it up pretty well like this but a sawsall with a metal blade will be all you need for the rebar. i am sure you have somthing that will cut metal in you garage just use it and don't bother with the rental stuff. it is nice but it is also money out of you pocket

Team-Green L&L
08-09-2006, 12:18 AM
I need to give an estimate for removal of 50 ft of concrete walkway. It's about 4" thick in a relatively open area at a residence. Using an ASV RC50 (1500# ROC), what attachment(s) would be best for the demolition of the concrete? I'm going to check if any rental outfits have a hydraulic breaker to fit the RC50. But, if that would be overkill I don't want to waste my time with a rental and I would rather be able to give a lower bid. I have available a 4n1 with tooth bar, a root rake style grapple, a straight arm backhoe attachment w/ 12" tooth bucket and fixed thumb. I'm hoping to avoid needing a sledge hammer! He does want to leave one end section in place (at a joint line). I would appreciate any advice for this demolition. Thanks.

I did see the post on asphalt removal but didn't think those recommendations would necessarily apply to concrete.

This one was a jackhammer job until we discovered how wonderful a concrete saw can be. With a crete saw, you can cut at the joints and remove the slabs with a Bobcat with little sweat or time. $100.00 a cut + $200.00 removal.

ksss
08-09-2006, 12:25 AM
dirty water pretty much nailed it. Be sure to cut the concrete where the good concrete starts. A grapple bucket is priceless in these jobs. I grab it rotate the bucket down and snap the concrete into managable pieces. You have a rather small machine so don't overload yourself. If it is rebared cut the pieces with a saw at the joint and you will be fine. I use a breaker but you could get by with a saw if that is all you have.

Scag48
08-09-2006, 01:41 AM
If you cut it with a saw, get a set of forks for your ASV and just lift the squares out. You'd be surprised how fast and easy this works.

cddva
08-09-2006, 01:53 PM
Thanks for all the good input. Based on your advice I think I can work with what I have (no breaker required) and it shouldn't take too long. I think it does have expansion joints between the slabs (wooden dividers visible) and I wouldn't expect rebar. I will bring a reciprocating (Sawsall) saw just in case.
I don't think it matters but it has an aggregate surface finish, like river rock/stone?

Now for my next question; I sent him an estimate (email) this morning that broke down as follows: $350 for 50 ft of concrete demolition assuming no concrete cutting, $200 for hauling/disposal (this was from the dump driver I've been working with), additional $100 for some light grading and a small trench for downspout drain pipe. I know prices vary throughout the country but just curious if you guys would consider this estimate in the ballpark. I know most of you wouldn't fool with something this small, which is the niche I'm trying to fill on a part time basis. Fire away!

Scag48
08-09-2006, 09:43 PM
I probably would have given an estimate for around $900-$1,000 for that job, but whatever man, just do what you gotta do to get started in the biz and don't worry about it. As long as you're covering your costs you can afford to be a little cheap until you get some experience under your belt.

Team-Green L&L
08-09-2006, 09:46 PM
A little low.

jazak
08-09-2006, 10:00 PM
Round here that would have been $1000 easy.

start2finish
08-09-2006, 10:50 PM
we bust it out for $2.50 a foot/ $500.00 minimum (no rebar 3 1/2 '' thick, which is what most people call 4'')